Prints for Evening - 1971

Just 15 short years after yesterday's post, this is what high end American fashion looks like.  In one of Diana Vreeland's final issues editing Vogue magazine, she said, "Print's the thing for evening." 

At left:  "The prettiest quilted silk coat, in a happy-go-flower print.  Shaped, belted, and perfect over every little thing you wear for evening.  Originala.  About $395" (about $2,273 in today's dollar.)  Mr. John hat, Graff watch, Golo boots worn over striped stockings.

At right:  "The print is paisley, and it's got you covered. Black, red, pink silk with trumpet sleeves and a wide belt - Jacques Tiffeau's small evening dress. Abraham fabric. About $325" (that's $1,870 in today's dollar.) Wig by Halston, bracelets by Oscar de la Renta.

Photo by Gianni Penati for Vogue magazine, 1971.
Fashion editor, Diana Vreeland.

The Look of Suits - 1955

Back in the day, most women had at least one good suit in their closet. Spring was the perfect time to buy a new one, as you could wear it for Easter and then continue to use it for years to come. Take a look at these beauties from 1955. Be prepared to drool.

This Zelinka-Matlick suit was featured in an ad for Miron wool, "the best wool you can put on your back". The hat is by Sally Victor and the fur muff by Fredrica.

A Bergdorf Goodman exclusive, this worsted flannel suit came in gray or navy. Sold for $195 in 1955 (about $1577 in today's dollar).

The Cadillac of suit makers, Lilli Ann, offered this one in an unusual blend of silk, mohair, and worsted wool. "Sleeves are pleated for drama...buckles are from Austria, studded with hand-cut brilliants...in turquoise, coral, pale beige, or mauve blue". Sold for $100 in 1955 (about $809 in today's dollar).

Bonwit Teller offered this suit by Monte-Sano in gray tweed or navy Forstmann wool. It has s shorter double-breasted jacket over a fullish skirt. Jacques Tiffeau was the designer at Monte-Sano at this time, so this is one of his suits. Sold for $235 in 1955 (about $1900 in today's dollar).

Oleg Cassini started designing under his own label in the early 1950s. He always did sexy, even in a simple suit. Va voom!

At Couture Allure, we love vintage suits, and always try to have a nice selection available for you. For spring, I love this 1950s tropical weight gray wool suit by Handmacher. It has sweet smiley pockets and the sleeves can be worn cuffed or not.

Jacques Tiffeau - Fashion Rebel

Isn't this suit from 1966 gorgeous? The lines, the drape of the sleeve, the double cuff, the tie at the waist. To me, it is perfect in every way. Of oyster color wool with a brown leather sash, what makes it interesting is that is is worn over a youthful bright fuschia turtleneck sweater. But then, Tiffeau was known for doing things differently. He was the avant-garde designer of the mid-1960's.

Jacques Tiffeau was the first American designer to raise hemlines to mini length, following the lead of Quant and Courreges, a full two years before the rest of America designers. He was the first to use black models and the first to use pop music at his fashion shows. He was also openly gay at a time when it was not socially acceptable to do so. He was a rebel. Brash and crude, he made many an enemy on Seventh Avenue, but he was also friends with some very important people, who delighted in his antics.

Tiffeau was born in France and grew up on a farm in the Loire Valley during the German occupation. About 1950, he was introduced to Christian Dior and became his lover while learning the trade. Tiffeau moved to New York in 1952 where he went to work as a pattern maker for Monte Sano & Pruzan, a coat and suit house. In 1958, he and Beverly Busch formed Tiffeau-Busch, a label that became very popular for it's spirited and youthful looks. Tiffeau won two Coty awards in 1960 and '64. He was one of America's first "celebrity designers".

Tiffeau was an early riser, and would start his day in the design studio at 7am, where he would work diligently with his assistant until 12:30. His work day over, he would then go off to La Grenouille, where he lunched with John Fairchild, publisher of Women's Wear Daily. During these lunches, Tiffeau would often pass along fashion trade gossip to Fairchild, one of the reasons he made so many enemies in the business. Tiffeau's afternoons were spent in outrageous sexual dalliances. He was most often asleep in bed by 8pm.

In 1972, Tiffeau announced to Busch that he wanted out, and Tiffeau-Busch closed. He returned to France, where he went to work for Yves St. Laurent, but left after differences with Pierre Bergé. He then designed for various less important fashion houses before returning to New York to work a short time for Originala. He was fired after a tantrum which involved throwing bolts of fabric out a window. He then approached his friend, Bill Blass, who offered him a position with Blassport. But he betrayed that friendship when, with Blassport's licensee Norman Zeiler, he tried to steal the line to form the label SporTiff. After that fiasco, Tiffeau disappeared from the fashion industry. He died in Paris in 1988 at age 59.

Please note: Biographical information about Tiffeau is copyright of Couture Allure and may not be copied without permission.