How to Buy a Hat #5

Final tips when buying a hat:

- Wear color or florals on your head with tailored suits and coats. This brings the eye up to your face.

- When choosing a turban style, leave some hair showing at the brow, and consider letting some curls escape at the back or side. Don't hide all your hair, and don't wear a turban over long flowing locks.

And finally, if you wear glasses, choose more feminine style hats, but avoid veils, which can get tangled in your frames.

I hope you've enjoyed this series on how to buy a hat. Now go! Make the world a more beautiful place! Wear a hat!

Hats available at Couture Allure. Click the pictures for more info:

A 1960's Mod era studded dome by Frank Olive:

A 1960's brown satin turban by Christian Dior:

A 1960's wide brimmed Breton by Lily Dache:

How to Buy a Hat #4

Tip #4 when buying a hat:

"Try to buy your hat for a specific costume or wardrobe. And when you are buying it, try to have the costume either on, at at least with you. The hat that sits in your closet is the hat that you can't afford. Charm is reason enough for buying a hat, but if it can make itself socially agreeable to your clothes - so much the better!"

Again, this rule applies to all accessory purchases. You may love it, but does it work with the rest of your wardrobe? It is better to buy one hat that you can wear with multiple outfits, than to buy one hat and then have to buy a new outfit to go with it.

As an example, the wonderful gold sweater with matching turban above by Florence Reichman makes a stylish set. But can she really wear the turban with other items in her wardrobe? Probably not.

How much more practical and versatile are these fedoras from Dobbs? Still fashionable, yet they would probably work with many more items hanging in your closet.

How to Buy a Hat #3

Tip #3 when buying a hat:

"Always look at the back view of your tentative hat. Sometimes, wide 'sustaining' bands will spoil the look of your hair; streamers can look ridiculous; and sometimes a dreamy sweep of straw will crumble into a linear apology in the back. Be stringent. Never buy a hat that is becoming from only one angle."

Just as you would check the back and side views if you were buying a dress, you should check those views when buying a hat.

The hat above is a white felt postilion by Dobbs, from January 1941.

What's a sustaining band? Many hats from the late 30's into the 40's were worn tipped forward over the brow and needed a band slipped over the back of the head to hold them in place. Often times, it was just a thin elastic cord, but I've also seen many with thicker bands like this.

How to Buy a Hat #2

Tip #2 when buying a hat:

"Always stand up when you are buying a hat. Many's the lady who, framed in the little square mirror, looks charmingly proportioned, only to find, when she rises that she looks either pinheaded, or top-heavy. Never buy a hat the day you are experimenting with a new coiffure. You'll end up throwing them both away!"

Good advice, and one I would suggest when buying jewelry or belts too. It's important to see how your accessories look when compared to your entire body in a full length mirror. And take dramatic changes in small steps. If you're not used to wearing a hat, be sure it works with your current hair style before buying.

The hat above features red roses on a black and white striped base with an alluring spotted siren veil. By Walter Florell, January 1941.

How to Buy a Hat #1

Vogue magazine's January 15, 1941 issue was all about hats, hats, and more hats. This week, I'll feature their tips for how to buy a hat. After all, "no hat is worth buying unless it makes you look prettier than you ever looked before. No woman can really explain why she buys a hat anyway. She just feels a great big urge to set something pretty on her head. All she really knows is that the 'something pretty' has a delicious psychological effect, and buying it is always a kind of spiritual adventure. Hats are emotional stuff..."

In this day and age, it's hard to find hats in stores, unless you're shopping for vintage. But have you ever tried on hats? There is something about them that does make a woman feel different, and believe me, if you wear one you will get noticed! I wear a hat sometimes when I go out, and I always get a positive comment or two. Modern designers have been showing hats on the runways for the past two seasons, so it's time to go buy a hat! Here's how:

"1. Always buy a hat as if it were the only one you'll have. That doesn't mean it must be a stern-brimmed pull-on. It merely means that it must be thoroughly in tune with you at your most attractive. Don't be above getting a touch cosmic about your hat-of asking 'But is it ME?'"

Above, a classic swagger hat in white felt with a snap brim bound in navy grosgrain with a band and bow in the same. By Knox.

In other news, congratulations to Mistress Meeyee, who is the winner of the 1950's scottie dog top!

Weekend Eye Candy - Balenciaga

I am in love.

Grey wool jersey dress by Balenciaga from Spring 1950.

How to Dress Up a Basic Vintage Sheath Dress

We all need at least one in our closet - a basic sheath dress.

Sheath: 1. Straight, narrow fitted dress usually with no waistline but shaped to body by vertical darts, or with set-in waistline. Ease of skirt obtained by inverted pleats at sides or center back. 2. Tight-fitting dress with regular waistline seam or set-in waistline and sheath skirt that is very narrow at hem and slashed at back to facilitate walking.

This dress by Jonathan Logan and sold by Lord & Taylor was made in wool flannel. It sold in 1955 for $17.95 ($144.40 today).

How do you take a basic sheath and make it noticeable? Accessorize! Add a wide belt at the waist and a statement necklace as shown here, and you've got a timeless look. In fact, take away those gloves and this photo could be in any current fashion magazine!

Don't forget to sign up for our Giveaway! The contest closes tomorrow, Saturday, October 11.

Vintage Sweaters - Dalton Cashmere and Mitin Mothproofing

Dalton Cashmeres was founded in 1951 in Willoughby, Ohio. They were soon known for their high quality cashmere sweaters, which are still sought after today by lovers of vintage clothing. Dalton also made co-ordinating separates, such as skirts, pants, and blouses.

This ad for Dalton Cashmeres appeared in the August 1956 issue of Glamour magazine. "Forward and aft views of Sandra, turtleneck triumph with a rib-bib in 100% imported cashmere, magnificently mated wtih Dalton's own superb skirt of doeskin flannel, or Stroock's pure cashmere or cashmere blend."

This sweater is one piece that looks like two, with the squared off faux opening that accents the ribbed turtleneck. It has 3/4 sleeves and buttons up the back. They've shown it tucked in or out, and given the option of two skirts, one in wool and one in cashmere.

In tiny letters at the bottom of the ad it says, "All Dalton Sweaters and Skirts are durably moth-proofed my Mitin."

I've never heard of Mitin, so I did some research. Mitin FF is a pesticide that works by killing the moth larvae when they ingest and digest the wool protein, which means if you do ever get moths in your closet, they won't be able to do a lot of damage. The chemical is added to the yarn in the dye bath at the same time as any coloring that is being added to the yarn. The mothproofing agent adheres to the yarn in a similar way as the dye does. Mitin FF is relatively harmless if not ingested, and has been used as a pesticide in the United States since 1948 exclusively by the textile industry for mothproofing wool. Laboratory tests have found the chemical to be "low to moderately toxic" and to have "low mammalian toxicity." The use of Mitin FF was outlawed in the UK in 1994 due to environmental concerns about the chemicals present when the dyebaths are disposed of.

Want to read more? Here is the EPA documentation about Mitin FF.

And to learn more about how to store your woolens safely without the use of chemicals, check out About.com's page about storing wool.

Vintage Dresses - in Black Velvet

I love the waist detail of this dress from 1956. 4 rows of satin cording with bows visually accent the tiny waist compared to the flare of the hips and bust. This dress was featured in the August 1956 issue of Glamour magazine and shows St. Louis debutante Jean Hamilton wearing a dress by Doris Dodson Juniors. The dress was about $18 in 1956 ($142 today). She wears a Therese Ahrens bandeaux hat and carries an Ingber purse.

You'll see the same waist accent in this early 60's velvet cocktail dress available at www.coutureallure.com. No bows, but this one's got the added allure of a large satin rose set off to the side. Click the picture to see the details.

Vintage Dresses - In Red!

Red is the color of fire and blood, and is a very emotionally intense color. This is why it is associated with passion, desire, and love. Studies show that red can have a physical effect, increasing the rate of respiration and raising blood pressure. Wear red when you want to stand out from the crowd and be noticed.

The two dresses shown above, from 1955, are perfect examples of how to get noticed in a sea of black cocktail dresses during the holiday party season. Do you dare?

Get the look with this 1950's red taffeta bubble hem dress, just listed on our website! Click the picture to see the details.

Full skirts not your style? How about this body conscious early 60's evening gown, also available at our website. Click the picture to see the listing.

If allover red is too much for your taste, add a pop of color with your accessories. This 1940's Holzman box purse is just the thing. Available at our website. Click the picture to see the details.

There are lots of red options at www.coutureallure.com. It's time to add some passion to your wardrobe!

The First Ever Couture Allure Giveaway!

Thanks for your interest! This Giveaway is now closed.


Who doesn't love Scottie dogs? This cute little knit top by Karoll's Scottie dates to the late 1950's, and is a perfect layering piece for fall. In charcoal grey knit that probably has some wool content, it's got a polo neckline and 3/4 sleeves. Measures 36" at the bust, unstretched and 23" long from shoulder to hem. There is one tiny pinhead size hole at the center back. I laundered it, and it washed beautifully.

The Scottie dog applique on the chest is kind of odd, but hey! It's a free vintage top! To win this top, leave a comment on today's post. Any comment will do, but please make sure I can reach you through your profile. And if you have a website or blog, mention my giveaway with a link, and I'll enter your name in the giveaway twice. Just drop me an email and let me know! This giveaway ends on Saturday, October 11, and we'll announce the winner next Monday, October 13.

In other news, the Couture Allure Blog was chosen for inclusion at Alltop - Top Fashion News, a collection of the best websites and blogs about fashion. We're honored. Thanks, Alltop!

And back to Pendleton 49'ers. My friend and colleague, Maggie, over at Denisebrain has done a follow-up post to mine on her blog about this versatile addition to your wardrobe. I love the way she added red gloves to this look, and you can see many more 49'ers by checking out her post.

By the way, Pendleton developed the 49'er in 1949 (surprise!) when they found that women were buying and wearing Pendleton's men's shirts as jackets. It was the first item of women's clothing they ever manufactured.

And on a final note - it's getting colder here in Boston. We finally caved last night and turned on the furnace to begin what could be a very scary and expensive heating season, as we heat our old Victorian home with fuel oil. That's as good a reason as any for a sale! Take 15% off any purchase at www.coutureallure.com until Friday, October 10. You'll have to email me before buying for a price adjustment, as my silly shopping cart does not have a discount feature at this time.

My Pendleton 49'er

I pulled out my Pendleton 49'er to show you. I usually wear it with a vintage brooch, and I'd forgotten about this one! I added a belt, and realize I really like the look. It looks like one of the pocket flaps is slipped inside the pocket - that's what I get for taking photos on a Friday afternoon. Hmmm, let's just say that's another advantage to a 49'er. If you don't want to draw attention to your hips, you can slip those pocket flaps inside, and because of the welt, it still looks great.

Send me a pic of your 49'er and I'll post them here next week!

Pendleton 49er Jacket with Pairables

One of my favorite vintage pieces in my closet is my classic Pendleton 49'er jacket from the 1950's. It looks just like this one, but in a different plaid. This ad, from the September 1955 issue of Seventeen magazine, shows all the various pieces Pendleton made to co-ordinate with their 49'er jackets.

"College cheers for Pendleton's beautiful Dress Black Watch tartan...in the loveliest woolens ever to leave the loom! Here it joins two famous Pairables, 49'er jacket with Pleatmaster skirt...and so you can keep your whole wardrobe in the clan...see how it spans Pendleton's trews, walkers, and wonderful new Sweater-Jacket, too!"

Trews: Close-fitting trousers, usually of tartan. Variant of trouser. - That's a new one on me!

So, pair your 49'er with the skirt, the trews, or the walking shorts. Or pair the sweater-jacket with the skirt, the trews, or the walking shorts. For me, that's a bit too much plaid at one time. I always pair my 49'er with solids, and would do the same with all of these separates. I do love how the 49'er is belted here, though, and may try that one of these days.

The 49'er was $19.95 in 1955 ($160 today). The Pleatmaster skirt was $14.95 in 1955 ($120 today).

1951 Weathervane Suit

Yesterday, a reader asked on what occasions a women in the 50's would wear such finely tailored suits. You can see my answer in the comments from yesterday's post, but here is another use - travel.

This is an ad for BOAC, British Overseas Airways Corporation. They show a stylish woman in a "Weathervane suit...designed for sophisticated travelers. Setting...the handsomely appointed Sky Lounge of BOAC's luxury flight, The Monarch. Double-Decker Stratocruisers exclusively, daily service. So many extras-yet no extra fare!"

The first time I flew, I was 5 years old. My parents were moving the family to a new location. They both wore suits, and my sisters and I were all in dresses. My how times have changed.

1951 Lilli Ann Suit

What's not to love about a Lilli Ann suit? And this one from 1951 is one of the best I've seen. The designer has taken a wool gabardine with a woven stripe at one edge and cut the various pieces of the jacket to showcase the stripes. One sleeve has the stripes across the cap, exactly matching the stripe going across the yoke of the body. The stripe is found on one side of the collar, but not the other. And just so the whole thing looks balanced, a long vertical stripe is appliqued down the opposite side. Genius! This suit sold for $90 in 1951, which equals about $750 today.

Lilli Ann suits are a perennial favorite with vintage fashion afficianados, and this one is available at our website. Here the brown velveteen of the collar is echoed in the sleeve cuffs and velveteen piping edges the slits at the jacket hem. This one is in a larger size, too! Click the picture to see the listing.

1951 Suit in Miron Wool

This ad, found in the July 1951 issue of Vogue magazine is not for the suit, but for the wool it was made from. This suit was made by Roxspun from "Miroque...Worsted with a vertical rib. One of Miron's unique new texturals, 100% Virgin Wool."

I often find labels sewn into garments from the 40's and 50's that identify the manufacturer of the fabric, as well as the manufacturer of the garment itself. Miron is one of these.

Here is an early 1950's suit by Fashionbilt, also made of Miron wool. It's available at our website. Click the picture to see more!


The Miron label is sewn right next to the Fashionbilt label on the inside of the right front of the jacket. A well-known fine fabric was just as important as the maker of the garment to a woman back in the 50's, when suits were expected to last many years.


The Miron Woolen Mills were located in Clinton, MA, a tiny town north of Worcester in the central part of the state. Sadly, the building was demolished in July 2008 to make way for a CVS. Another piece of fashion history makes way for modern retail.

1964 Bill Blass Evening Gown with Hat

Yes, the answer to Saturday's quiz is Bill Blass.

"A new incandescence of sharp-contrast colors, Bill Blass couples vivid Moroccan rose with saffron in cool-touch textured silk. Shapes them into a new look for after-dark drama, inspired by the mystery of Morocco and the native Caftan."

At this point, in 1964, Blass was the vice-president of Maurice Rentner and his name was on the label. He bought the company in 1967. It is interesting to see that as early as 3 years before buying Maurice Rentner, he was promoting himself and his name by joining with Cover Girl for their advertisements. There is no mention of Maurice Rentner in the ad.

Vivid colors such as these are just starting to show up in fashion, and will become all the rage in a couple of years time. It is interesting that Blass uses them for evening.

Ralph Rucci: A Designer and His House

I just watched the short film "Ralph Rucci: A Designer and His House", which I taped this morning on the Sundance Channel. Unfortunately, this exquisite film is not scheduled to be shown again, and if you didn't see it, I'm very sorry you missed it. It was very well done, with lots of discussion about the clothes, the couture techniques, and the design process that Rucci uses.

Ralph Rucci is the first American to be invited to show his couture collection in Paris since Mainbocher in the 1930's. I'm not sure if you can see the details, but these garments are completely made by hand. You can find better photos at the Kent State Museum's Chado Ralph Rucci Couture retrospective exhibit website.

"We don't make couture to sell nail polish. We make couture and women write the checks for this. I don't put clothes like this on the red carpet. These clothes go privately to homes, I'm proud to say." -Ralph Rucci

Why Am I Closing My EBay Store?

I posted this message on all my EBay listings a couple of weeks ago, and since then, I've been receiving several emails a day asking "Why? Why are you closing your EBay store?" The outpouring of support and commiseration has been overwhelming, and I thank you all from the bottom of my heart.

There are several reasons I am moving away from selling on EBay, not the least of which are what I consider poor business decisions on EBay's part. That being said, here are my reasons, in no particular order:

1. You met my first granddaughter a few months ago. She is now 6 months old, and is the sweetest bundle of fun and blessings any woman could ask for. When my daughter calls to say, "Mom, HELP!", I drop everything and go, which means I need a bit more flexibility in my life.

2. My new website, www.coutureallure.com has been very successful since the launch in July, and I will be devoting most of my work efforts to filling it with the best vintage I can find for you.

3. I'm almost too embarassed to show this to you. This has to change. This is about 1/3 of my office/storage space. Over the past year or so, I was very lucky to receive calls for several large estate clean-outs. I also bought a LOT of vintage at various auctions. I ended up feeling overwhelmed, unfocused, and stressed. I was working 6 days a week, not sleeping well, and always thinking about the business. That's no way to live.

About a month ago, I had a life-changing, light bulb moment in which I suddenly stopped and asked myself, "What are you doing? STOP!". The next day, I went through everything in storage, and donated 25 large trash bags full of ordinary, boring, or damaged vintage to the local thrift store. Much of the remainder is top notch vintage that went back into storage to be listed on the website. The rest was divided into piles by era, which I've been selling off in large lots on EBay, and to local dealers.

At the end of that day, I suddenly felt a huge weight lift from my shoulders and I've been sleeping really well. Each large lot that goes out the door, goes with an enthusiastic wave goodbye and my best wishes. My mailman will get a huge basket of homemade cookies when the last big box goes.

4. And then there is EBay. EBay has made several policy changes in the last few months that negatively impact sellers on their site. Not only have their fees increased dramatically, but now they are forcing buyers to use PayPal only. No more money order payments will be allowed on the site starting in October. And don't get me started about their new Best Match search experience!

As a buyer, have you noticed there is far less vintage being offered on EBay? That's because sellers are leaving the site in large numbers. Have you noticed you can't find anything on EBay anymore? That's because EBay's new search returns lots of irrelevant items and you have to weed through things you're not interested in to find a few that you are.

I will still list an item or two for auction on EBay from time to time, and will probably always have a few Fixed Price items available, but I'm closing my EBay store within the next month. Please bookmark the new website at www.coutureallure.com, and be sure to sign up for our newsletter while you're there!

Weekend Eye Candy - And a Quiz

From the October 1964 issue of Vogue magazine. This photo is part of an ad for Cover Girl make-up. The photo was taken by Richard Avedon.

But who designed the hat? Answer on Monday!