Wednesday, February 27, 2013

Adolfo's Knits

Last week, we looked at the hats and early clothing of Adolfo Sardina.  Today will be the end of my series on this talented designer.  In the very early 70s, when knits started to become very popular, Adolfo took the trend and elevated it to a higher style for his exclusive clientele.  "A dress has to be more than a long sweater," he said in 1972.  The results were nothing less than spectacular classics that still look decidedly modern 40 years later.

70s evening gown with sequins, sold by Couture Allure
The designer used only a very high quality knits made of silk and wool that were specially constructed not to cling, sag or lose their shape. There were often patterns knitted into the fabric, such as lacy pointelles or geometric designs.

1974 knit maxi dress from the collection of the Met Museum
Adolfo insisted that his clients wear a body stocking or panty girdle and bra under his knit dresses.  He even designed his own special girdle made of English elasticized fabric that he sold with the dresses.  And he always advised his customers to buy one size up whe0 wearing a knit. "Knits cling...An extra size is a wonderful disguise."

1976, in the collection of the Met Museum
By 1973, Adolfo began to present what would become his signature look, the knit suit styled after those of Chanel.  For his suits, he used the same knits as his dresses as well as thicker boucle knits in tweedy yarns that mimicked the wools used by Chanel. 

1977, from the collection of the Met Museum
He trimmed his suit jackets with braids, buttons and pocket flaps, just as Chanel did.  Sometimes the jackets were edged with crocheted yarn in a contrasting color.  He sold the suits with co-ordinating silk blouses that tied with a bow at the neck.

1979, suit trimmed with gold sequins
While his knits became very popular, he continued to design printed silk daytime dresses and evening wear for his steady stream of custom clients in his 57th Street Salon.  In the late 60s and 70s, he also had  wholesale arrangements with a few high end department stores like Saks Fifth Avenue, I. Magnin and Neiman Marcus.

In 1976, Adolfo began designing a menswear line.  During the 70s and 80s he licensed his name to countless products, including perfume, furs, handbags, hats and sportswear.  In 1993, Adolfo announced the closing of his custom salon, much to the chagrin of his loyal clients who had been purchasing his clothing since the 1960s.  After closing his salon, he concentrated on marketing his licensed lines and made appearances at department stores and on QVC.  He continues working with his licensees to this day.

Tuesday, February 26, 2013

Giveaway Winner and My Favorite Oscar Dress

The winner of yesterday's giveaway of the book, "Unforgettable: Fashions of the Oscars" is Sharon!  Thank you to everyone who entered and congratulations to Sharon!  I'll be in touch via email this morning to arrange for shipping.

My favorite red carpet dress for the Academy Awards of 2013 was the futuristic silver sequined gown by Armani Prive that Naomi Watts wore.  I love the cut.  I love the sparkle, I love the fact that this was different from every other gown on the red carpet.  The gown fits her perfectly and she looks fabulous!

How about you?  Which was your favorite?

Monday, February 25, 2013

Giveaway! Unforgettable: Fashions of the Oscars

THIS GIVEAWAY IS NOW CLOSED.  THANKS FOR STOPPING BY!

I found one more book to giveaway from my library!  And since the Academy Awards were last night, I thought the timing of this one appropriate.  I am downsizing my bookshelves and you get to benefit!

Today's giveaway is for the auction catalog for the Christie's "Unforgettable: Fashion of the Oscars" auction that was held to benefit AmfAR in 1999.  There were 54 lots in this auction, all famous dresses donated by Hollywood movie stars and celebrities for this auction.  All of the dresses were worn to the Academy Awards and include dresses from the 1950s to the 1990s. 

This silver beaded dress by Edith Head was worn by Janet Leigh in 1959.  Each double page spread includes a full page color photo of the dress and a full description of the designer and the garment itself, as well as the year it was worn.

This is a soft cover book, 165 pages and is in excellent condition.  I know you'll enjoy it and good luck!

This giveaway will run for 24 hours only and the winner will be chosen at 7am Eastern Tuesday, February 26, 2013.  I'm not going to make you jump through hoops either.  Simply leave a comment here on the blog.  If you don't have a blogger profile, please leave your email address in your comment.  I'll choose the winner via the random number generator tomorrow morning and will contact the winner via email for shipping information.  And stay tuned for another giveaway every day this week!

Important!  If you live in the US, I will ship this book to you via Media Mail at no cost.  Unfortunately, due to the recent postal rate increases, if you live outside of the US, I must ask that you pay for the shipping, which could run anywhere from $16.00 - $23.00 depending upon where you live.  If you live outside the US and are not willing to pay the shipping, please do not enter this giveaway!

Saturday, February 23, 2013

Weekend Eye Candy - Ben Reig and Adolfo, 1964

Since we've been looking at Adolfo all week, I thought you might like to see this image taken at the Arctic Circle in 1964.  The model is wearing a white silk faille cape with mink edged hood by Ben Reig.  Adolfo made the silver sequined hood and Viola did the silver sequined gloves.  The composition of this photo, taken by John Cowan is superb in every way, don't you think?

Thursday, February 21, 2013

Adolfo's Early Clothing

Earlier this week, we looked at Adolfo's hats.  When Adolfo opened his exclusive millinery shop in 1962, he began showing simple garments of his own design to offset his hats.  In 1966, as the popularity of hats dwindled, Adolfo made the decision to begin designing clothing in earnest.  As a milliner, he had developed an exclusive clientele of socialites.  These women formed his custom client base as he moved into designing fashion. 
 
1966 gold beaded mini dress, from the collection of the Met Museum
Women such as Gloria Vanderbilt, Babe Paley, CZ Guest, Jackie Onassis and Nancy Reagan drove his business.  Adolfo would show the collection to these women privately and make their garments to order. 

1967, from the collection of The V&A Museum
He stayed away from designing the popular sportswear of the time and instead focused on specialty items that reflected the social status of his exclusive clientele.  The evening ensemble above was made from an antique crazy quilt.
Late 60s vest and hot pants made from a crochet afghan, available at Frockology
Many of his pieces from the late 60s were quite "costume-y"  He was quoted as saying that his clothing was for a woman's fun and fantasy moods.  "Ladies want fun and games," he said in 1969.  He was satisfying their wants with maxi coats made from antique Spanish tapestry bedspreads and maxi skirts made from panels cut from checkered tablecloths and sheer gauze curtains.

1968, crochet mini dress, from the collection of the Met Museum
Adolfo showed this crochet mini dress in 1968. Jackie Onassis called him and ordered it custom made in 14 different colors.

1970, from the collection of RISD
Adolfo would use ideas from ethnic and native costumes that he observed when on vacation.  In Portugal, he saw women wearing embroidered shawls with long fringe.  The dress above shows the result of that inspiration.  After visiting Sardinia, he made a leather evening vest that laced in the front, to be worn with a voluminous satin full length skirt.  The vest was meant to be worn with nothing underneath, not even a bra.

Adolfo won a second Coty Award for his clothing  in 1969.

In one short year, starting in 1970, Adolfo's designs will make a radical change from the outrageous flights of fancy to a more classic and subdued esthetic.  We'll look at those garments next time


Wednesday, February 20, 2013

Every Day Will Count

Today marks the 3rd anniversary of the sudden death of my sister Barbara.  As I do each year, I want to share her words with you.  This is a reprint of a post I wrote in February, 2010.  Please hug someone you love today.

Thank you all so very much for your heartfelt thoughts, prayers, and words of condolence over the past week. The loss of my dear sister has been devastating to me and my entire family. Your words meant a lot.

My sister Barbara was 5 years younger than me, which disproves the theory "Older is wiser", as she taught me many life lessons through the years. Barbara taught me how important it is to define your dreams and then go and get them for yourself. She taught me that it was OK to pursue being happy with my life. She taught me to take care of myself first, so I could be the best mom possible for my children. She taught me what it means to be a friend through her ability to listen and care. She taught me what it means to be a sister through her love for me, Pam, Becky and Brenda. She taught me what it means to be a daughter through her abiding love and respect for our parents. She taught me what it means to be a mother through her willingness to do anything for her children. She taught me what it means to be an aunt through her caring for all her nieces and nephews.

Barbara's passing has left a rift in my family that will never be filled. I wish that I had spoken with her in the week before she died and told her how much I loved her. As it is, I must believe that she knows it somehow.

Please reach out to someone in your family today and tell them that you love them. You never know if it will be your last chance.

During the past week, I found the following passage written by Barbara in her journal. It was written sometime in 2000, the year she turned 39. It was read at her memorial service on Thursday, and I want to share it with you here.

"What can I say, but be true to you and you will never disappoint yourself.
Try to treat your children as you would see your perfect self behave.
Don't sell yourself short. Amazing things can happen - even at 39.
If you were to know that you would have your last year on earth - how would you live your life?
Don't settle.
Know that every day will count.
Go surf, ride the bike with the kids, plant a tree, put a fence in, put a hot tub in.
Try to make a difference for your children."

Rest in peace now, my beautiful sister. I love you.

Tuesday, February 19, 2013

Adolfo Hats, 1963-66

On Monday, we looked at some of the hats from Adolfo's early career while working for Emme.   

1963
Adolfo left Emme to open his own millinery salon at 22 East 57th Street, New York in 1962. His hats continued to be very popular and were featured often on the editorial pages of high fashion magazines. 

1964
His hats were also often found in fashion advertisements for other companies, always with attribution in the small print.  This ad was for dresses by Nantucket Naturals with hats by Adolfo.

1965
He also paired with several clothing manufacturers to make hats that coordinated with their garments.  Here, the suit is by Modelia and Adolfo made the matching hat.


In 1963, Adolfo made an agreement with the Award Hat Company to launch two new labels that bore his name.  He would design the hats, but Award would manufacture them.  The Adolfo Realities line was a bridge line and the Adolfo II line was a less expensive one.  These lines were sold in department stores and smaller boutiques across the country, and were more affordable for the average American woman.  His own Adolfo label hats were sold in his 57th St. boutique and at the upper tier of department stores across the country, such as Saks Fifth Avenue, I. Magnin, etc.


This is the label from Adolfo's custom hat line.  It is often found with an additional label attached from the first tier department store where it was sold.  This label signifies the most expensive of Adolfo's hats.

Adolfo Realities label from his bridge line.  These hats were manufactured by the Award Hat Company, but designed by Adolfo.  This line was less expensive than the custom label hats, but still of high quality.


The lowest tier label, the Adolfo II line was designed by Adolfo but manufactured by the Award Hat Company.  This was the least expensive of Adolfo's hat lines and the hats were made of lower quality materials with the trimmings often glued on instead of stitched.  That is not to say that these are not great hats!  They are still far superior to hats made in later decades!

1965
As the decade moved on and fewer women were wearing hats, Adolfo began designing more dramatic styles in order to counteract the trend.  He held that hats should be worn as a fashion accessory rather than as a necessity.

1966
Adolfo was quoted in 1993 as saying that even though he got his start in millinery, he never enjoyed making hats.  I'm not so sure I believe him, because his hats were beautiful.  By 1966 though, hats were becoming less and less popular and few women wore them anymore.  Adolfo made the incisive and timely move to designing clothing, probably more as a business decision than anything else.  We'll look at some of his clothing tomorrow.

Monday, February 18, 2013

Adolfo Hats for Emme

Designer Adolfo Sardina, 1958
Adolfo Sardina was born in Havana, Cuba in 1933.  Destined to join the family law firm, it was his wealthy and fashionable aunt, Maria Lopez, who persuaded Adolfo's parents that her nephew was not meant for the law.  She took him to Paris and convinced Balenciaga to hire Adolfo as an apprentice.  It was there that he learned the importance of cut and design that would serve him throughout his career.

In 1953, Adolfo left Paris to work in New York.  There, he joined the millinery firm of Emme where he designed hats until starting his own company in 1963.  He won the first of his 3 Coty Awards in 1955 for his millinery work at Emme.  Today, a look at some of the hats Adolfo designed during his years at Emme.

1955


1957


1959

1960

Sophia Loren wearing an Adolfo for Emme hat, 1961.




Sunday, February 17, 2013

New at Couture Allure - Cotton Dresses for Spring

The What's New page on the Couture Allure website is exploding with color right now, and I love it!  This week I've added loads of vintage cotton dresses in floral and pop art prints.  Enjoy!

1960s Malia cotton floral maxi dress

1960s Shannon Rodgers cotton maxi dress

1950s cotton floral full skirt dress

1960s cotton floral shift with matching jacket

1960s Penthouse Gallery pop art dress

1960s cotton floral shift dress

1960s ruffle hem cotton dress



Saturday, February 16, 2013

Weekend Eye Candy - Givenchy, 1958


First, a bit of business.  The winner of yesterday's giveaway of "The Fashion Book" is Suzanne.  Congratulations Suzanne!  I'll email you shortly for your shipping address.  And thank you to everyone who entered my giveaways this week.  I hope all the winners enjoy their books and I hope those of you who didn't win will continue to follow my blog.  I truly love sharing my fascination with vintage fashion here.

In the spring of 1958, Givenchy designed this dress and jacket ensemble in turquoise wool with a marvelous textured weave.  Love that wide lapel and the belt makes the entire outfit sing.  The car is a Ford.  Hubby says it's a Fairlane.  I think I'm in love.



Friday, February 15, 2013

Giveaway #5 - The Fashion Book

THIS GIVEAWAY IS CLOSED.  THANKS FOR STOPPING BY!

Today marks the last of my week of giveaways! If you follow the Couture Allure Facebook page, you know I've been downsizing my personal research library over the past couple of months.  Most of the vintage books are being offered for sale in my SewHallie Etsy shop, and more will be added this week.  However, there are several that I want to give away as gifts to my devoted followers here on the blog.  I know I neglected you last month, and I hope these gifts will make up for it!

The winner of yesterday's giveaway of "The Collectible Barbie Doll" is Karen in Milwaukee!


Congratulations Karen!  I'll be in touch by email shortly to make arrangements for shipping your book.  And thank you to everyone who entered! 

Today's giveaway is the "The Fashion Book" published by Phaidon Press in 1999.  This little book measures just 5" x 6 1/2" but is chock-a-block full of 519 pages of information and photos about 500 fashion designers, photographers and models spanning 150 years of the history of fashion.

This is a little encyclopedia of information, arranged in alphabetical order from James Abbe to Zoran.

Each entry gives you one photo and biographical information.

This is a soft cover book and is in excellent condition with just some minor edge wear and marks to the covers.  I'm sure you'll find it useful and interesting!

This giveaway will run for 24 hours only and the winner will be chosen at 7am Eastern Saturday, February 16, 2013.  I'm not going to make you jump through hoops either.  Simply leave a comment here on the blog.  If you don't have a blogger profile, please leave your email address in your comment.  I'll choose the winner via the random number generator tomorrow morning and will contact the winner via email for shipping information. 

Important!  If you live in the US, I will ship this book to you via Media Mail at no cost.  Unfortunately, due to the recent postal rate increases, if you live outside of the US, I must ask that you pay for the shipping, which could run anywhere from $12.00 - $18.00 depending upon where you live.  If you live outside the US and are not willing to pay the shipping, please do not enter this giveaway!


Thursday, February 14, 2013

Giveaway #4 - The Collectible Barbie Doll Book

THIS GIVEAWAY IS NOW CLOSED.  THANKS FOR STOPPING BY!

I'm doing an entire week of giveaways here on the blog! If you follow the Couture Allure Facebook page, you know I've been downsizing my personal research library over the past couple of months.  Most of the vintage books are being offered for sale in my SewHallie Etsy shop, and more will be added this week.  However, there are several that I want to give away as gifts to my devoted followers here on the blog.  I know I neglected you last month, and I hope these gifts will make up for it!

The winner of yesterday's giveaway of "Radical Fashion" is an anonymous poster.

Congratulations Anonymous!  I'll be in touch by email shortly to make arrangements for shipping your book.  And thank you to everyone who entered!

Today's giveaway is the book, "The Collectible Barbie Doll, Second Edition" by Janine Fennick.  If you played with Barbie when you were younger, you'll love this nostalgic look at vintage and collectible Barbies, her friends and her clothes.

 Did you have any of these Barbies or outfits?  My sister had the red headed bubblecut Barbie.

 I had one of the original ponytail Barbies, the one in the center I think.  I wonder whatever happened to her? 

Look at these Bob Mackie Limited Editions!  This book is hardcover with the original dust jacket, published in 1999.  Near Mint condition too!

This giveaway will run for 24 hours only and the winner will be chosen at 7am Eastern Friday, February 15, 2013.  I'm not going to make you jump through hoops either.  Simply leave a comment here on the blog.  If you don't have a blogger profile, please leave your email address in your comment.  I'll choose the winner via the random number generator tomorrow morning and will contact the winner via email for shipping information.  And stay tuned for another giveaway every day this week!

Important!  If you live in the US, I will ship this book to you via Media Mail at no cost.  Unfortunately, due to the recent postal rate increases, if you live outside of the US, I must ask that you pay for the shipping, which could run anywhere from $20.00 - $29.00 depending upon where you live.  If you live outside the US and are not willing to pay the shipping, please do not enter this giveaway!