Swimsuit Styles 1961

We're back to cold weather today, and I'm dreaming of tropical breezes, sand, and sun. What better way to indulge my dreams than with some one-piece swimsuits from 1961 photographed in St. Croix.

Brigance for Sinclair cotton print suit with a gathered skirt over bloomers. The print is of green and black beach balls on white.

At left: Brigance for Sinclair navy and white stripe maillot in a cotton, lastex, and orlon knit.
At right: Brigance for Sinclair navy and white print maillot with a square neckline and navy patent belt in cotton and Lastex knit.

Susan Thomas skirted swimsuit in white cotton sateen with navy blue Schiffli embroidery.

Brigance by Sinclair one-shoulder skirted suit in navy blue cotton with white polka dots, belted in navy blue patent.

How to Wear Summer Whites - 1960

What is it about wearing white in the summer that makes us feel so cool, so calm, so comfortable? Of course, there is the sun reflecting quality of white that makes it a smart choice in warmer climates. But there is also the psychological factor of appearing bright and fresh after a long winter of wearing dark and drab colors. And white can be very sophisticated when done right.

Following are some beautiful white summer fashions from 1960, and with each photo, a modern tip for how to wear white successfully.

Cotton pique suit with a long pencil skirt topped with a cropped jacket by Evan-Picone. Worn with an Emme hat, daisy earrings, and little white gloves.

Tip #1 - Choose the right white for your skin tone. Clear, bright white looks best on skin with blue undertones. For those with warmer complexions, cream or ivory is a better choice.

A silk blouson sheath dress with horizontal tucks by David Goodstein. Worn with a wide brimmed hat by Irene of New York.

Tip #2 - Select high quality fabrics with enough body to diminish show-through. Lighter weight fabrics should be lined for the best result.

Woven stripes accent this full skirted dress by Toni Owen. Worn with a wide brimmed hat by Lilly Daché and Miriam Haskell earrings.

Tip #3 - Wear skin-toned underwear with white. White underwear will show through your dress! Choose a bra and panties in a color as close as possible to your skin tone. If your dress is not lined, a nude color slip will work wonders.

Full skirted dress with dropped waist and wide collar by Leonard Arkin. Worn with a Lilly Daché bucket hat.

Tip#4 - Choose the proper shoes or sandals in soft beige, camel, silver, or bronze. Avoid wearing heavy colored shoes like black or dark brown. Bright pops of color like red or yellow on your feet can work if they are balanced with a matching accessory. White shoes will give a look that is too "matchy-matchy".

Bias cut silk dress with a cowl neckline and flared skirt by Ardanti. Worn with a Lilly Daché bucket hat, daisy earrings, and white gloves.

Tip #5 - White can appear too virginal, too sweet. Offset that tendency by showing enough skin. Choose sleeveless or low-cut styles over being too covered up.

Victor Costa overcame the virginal look of this ruffled evening gown for Neiman Marcus by layering white lace over a nude color lining for a peek-a-boo effect. This 1970's dress is available at Couture Allure for $245.00

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Vintage Versatility

Last weekend I cleaned out my closet. I got rid of several things that were past their prime, made note of holes in my wardrobe, and put together a list of things I need. I spent the entire day Friday at the mall searching for those few items. What a disheartening experience - especially after spending my days immersed in vintage fashion magazines. Fabrics that make you go, "ewwww". Colors that are jarring to the nerves. Shoddy workmanship galore. And prices I'm unwilling to pay for all the above. Give me vintage any day.

Whatever happened to easy shopping? Whatever happened to co-ordinates that you can mix and match to form a capsule wardrobe? Why do I have to go downstairs to buy a dress, but then wander all over the 2nd floor trying to find a cute cardigan to wear with it? Why can't this season's colors work with last season's? Is it too much to ask that said cardigan also work with a skirt and top already in my closet?

Needless to say, I ended up tired and cranky, and a few of the items I purchased in desperation will have to go back. I dread returning to that hellhole mall.

Here is what delights me this morning, both from the summer of 1954.

Toni Owens cotton separates in a dalmation print. You could buy the shirt, shorts, skirt, and sash belt, then mix-and-match to your heart's content. Going out for the entire day? Wear the blouse and shorts and carry the skirt in your tote bag. When you're ready for cocktails or dinner, slip the skirt on and you're all set!


In a similar concept, Bonwit Teller offered this cotton swimsuit with a matching skirt. Wear the swimsuit to the beach in the morning, slip on the skirt for lunch on the patio. Rinse out the suit, then take an afternoon siesta. When you're ready for cocktails or dinner, slip the swimsuit and skirt back on, add a touch of jewelry and you're set to go! If the moonlight beckons you for a midnight swim, slip off the skirt and jewelry. What could be easier?

New at Couture Allure - Vintage Evening Dresses and Designer Suits

New this week at Couture Allure, lots of shimmer and sparkle for evening and a fabulous suit by an important designer, Philip Mangone.

Mangone was one of the best suit and coat designers from the 1920’s to the 1950’s. Always exquisitely tailored, his suits are becoming very hard to come by. This early 1940's suit is fashioned from purple wool gabardine.

This 1960's metallic brocade cocktail suit consists of a dress with matching coat trimmed in black mink fur. Trés chic!

This 1960's cocktail suit by Adolphe Zelinka is fashioned from one of the most unusual fabrics I've ever seen! Grey mohair wool is woven with gold lamé in a Mod geometric pattern. More trés chic!


Even more sparkle and shine, this time in black sequins on a late 1950's cocktail dress by Jay Herbert.

Need a little something to jazz up your favorite evening dress? How about this 1960's opera cape worked in a metallic jacquard?

Last for today, but far from least, is this early 1970's metallic gold and beaded silk evening gown by Oscar de la Renta. This dress was from one of his earliest collections bearing his own label.

Weekend Eye Candy - 1937 Schiaparelli Metamorphosis Collection

For the summer of 1937, Elsa Schiaparelli designed her collection around the theme of metamorphosis and used butterflies as its symbol. Shown here, the ultimate Easter bonnet with matching jacket, both trimmed with plastic butterflies. The jacket was worked in sky blue wool, a perfect backdrop for the 4 three-dimensional butterflies that decorate the front opening. The smallest at the waist, worked as a real button, while the graduated non-working bound buttonholes above that provide balance and an additional decorative accent. As always, click the photo to see a larger view.

1949 Beach Coat

Speaking of coats for warmer weather, what ever happened to beach coats? Sweet little jackets you slipped on over your swimsuit or wore as a topper with shorts and a sleeveless top when the weather cooled down in the evening. They were always long enough to cover the bottom of your swimsuit. I want one! Shown above, a full cut and pleated version in white cotton pique by Lanz of California.

If you want one too, your best option is to probably make your own. Here are several vintage patterns available from online dealers I trust:

This one from the 1950's is available at Glamoursurf for $49.99.

This one is available at FuzzyLizzie for $15.00.

This one is available at Miss Helene's for $12.99.

And another at Miss Helene's for $12.99.

Here's a real beach coat in action. Lana Turner wears one in The Postman Always Rings Twice when she and Frank walk down to the ocean for a midnight swim. In this scene they are walking back up to the car and she has a towel wrapped over her wet hair. She wore this white beach coat over her swimsuit. You'll see it best at the very beginning of this clip.

Vintage Raincoats

I promised Suzanne a look at some vintage raincoats this week. When I showed you those Traina-Norell silk swing coats last week, Suzanne wondered if one could wear silk in the rain. Here are some coats from the same time period, 1949, that are made specifically for rainy days. Note they all have the same swingy fullness, sometimes belted, sometimes not. Some of them come with hoods, sometimes removeable, sometimes not.

Stormplay's rayon sharkskin coat with water repellant finish and fun polka dot lining. Sold for $25.00 (about $230.00 in today's dollar).

At left: Pale tweed with taffeta trim and lining by Knox, sold for $39.95 (about $367.00 in today's dollar).
At right: Rainshedder rayon faille coat with pleated back and detachable hood. sold for $29.95 (about $275.00 in today's dollar).

Harris herringbone check raincoat made from Dan River Stormwear fabric that is treated with Zelan for permanent water repellancy. Sold for $25.00 (about $230.00 in today's dollar).

Weatherbee showerproofed rayon twill comes with a detachable hood and belt. Sold for $22.00 (about $201.00 in today's dollar).

Finally, I couldn't resist these from 1954. Judy Lane rain or shine coats in corduroy, tweed, or rayon faille, all treated with Cravenette to shed showers. Love those deep cuffs and matching pixie hats! These coats sold from $11.00 - $18.00 (about $90.00 - $146.00 in today's dollar)

One last note - I'm always struck when calculating the cost of what an item sold for into today's dollar, how much of one's budget an item of clothing cost back in the day. If a woman were spending this much on a raincoat in 1949, it would be expected to last for years and years of wear. Compare that to today's clothing that costs so much less, but lasts for a season or two before it falls apart. It's no wonder vintage clothing is so popular today. A coat made in 1949, like those above, is more than likely still serviceable and stylish today - if you can find it!

Hats for Spring 1949

Hats for the Spring of 1949 from Charm magazine. Do you have your Easter bonnet picked out? As always, click on the pictures for a larger view.

Gold pie-plate crown straw hat with a tiny brim and garland of pink posies by Brandt sold for about $15.00 ($138 in today's dollar).

At left: Straw hat with flowers by Gage sold for $9.95 (about $92.00 in today's dollar)
At right: Side-swept Milan bonnet by M & M sold for $10.00 (about $92.00 in today's dollar)

At left: Straw sailor hat with full face veil by Mallory sold for $14.95 (about $138.00 in today's dollar)
At right: Rayon sailor hat with full face veil by Walter K. Marks sold for $12.50 (about $115.00 in today's dollar)

At left: Straw hat with up-curved brim and rose at the side by Phil Duby sold for $13.95 (about $129.00 in today's dollar)
Center: Straw bonnet with bird's wings and roses at each side by Alpine sold for $12.95 (about $120 in today's dollar)
At right: Straw cloche with a large bouquet of roses by Thornton sold for $10.00 (about $92.00 in today's dollar

At left: Straw hat with undulating brim worn to the side by Colby sold for $7.95 (about $73.00 in today's dollar)
Above right: Straw bonnet with pie-crust fluting by Dunlap sold for $12.95 (about $120.00 in today's dollar)
Below right: Straw cloche with ripple brim by Betmar sold for $7.95 (about $73.00 in today's dollar

A Guessing Game - Fun with Ads from 1948

It's often fun to look at old advertisements, as they reveal how very different our lives are today. Here are several images from ads in Cosmopolitan magazine from June 1948. Can you guess what the ads are for? Post your answers in comments, and when someone gets it right, I'll post the entire ad for you to see. Ready?


#1 - This is the easiest of the bunch. What is this photo advertising?

Correct answer by Glamoursurf - Nail polish and lipstick!

The ad is for Naylon Nail Enamel in the non-tip bottle with easy-to-use applicator and matching "double-processed" lipstick.


#2 - How about this gal in her fancy blue evening outfit with matching parasol? What is she advertising?

Guesses so far: Coca-Cola, perfume, lingerie, feminine protection, bra & girdle, Scott toilet paper - No, sorry!

Correct answer by Past Perfect Vintage - Deodorant!

This ad is for Colgate's Veto creme deodorant. "You can say 'Yes' to Romance...Because Veto say 'No' to Offending. Veto says 'no' to perspiration worry and odor. Veto says 'no' to harming skin and clothes. You feel confident....sure of exquisite daintiness."


#3 - The answer to this one is very unexpected, and I'll bet no one gets it! Go ahead, try!

Guesses so far - Deodorant, dishwashing detergent - Nope!

I'm giving half credit to Jen of Morning Glorious Vintage. She guessed the correct product as Listerine, but the ad is not for bad breath. So what is the Listerine being used for???????

Guesses so far - to calm the nerves, douche - Keep trying!

And the answer is.....Infectious Dandruff!!!

"Listerine Antiseptic and massage...it's a must with countless fastidious women who dread infectious dandruff with its ugly flakes and scales. Wisely, they make Listerine Antiseptic and massage a part of regular hair-washing. It's a delightful way of guarding against this all-too-common condition."

Ugh.

#4 - Ah, brides. They're so innocent, so pure, so full of expectations. What is this image advertising?

Guesses so far: Life Insurance, Milk of Magnesia, hope chest, canned pineapple, diamonds, dishwasher, nerve pills, deodorant - Good try!

No one guessed that this ad is for Gorham Sterling flatwear. "It's happening! In a moment, I'll be Frank's wife and partner...the hostess in his home. They say marriage begins when you say I do...but I began to think of us when I caught my first glimpse of our Gorham Sterling..."

Things are a bit different nowadays! There were a lot of ads for sterling flatwear in magazines for younger women like Seventeen and Glamour up until the late 1950's. Back in those days, most young womens' goal was to find a husband and become a homemaker.

Moygashel Linen

Moygashel linen is known throughout the world as the highest quality Irish linen one can buy. Moygashel is a small Irish village located on the outskirts of Dungannon in south Tyrone. The famous Moygashel Linen Mills were established there in 1795. It is said that Moygashel linen has a unique ingredient using the soft rainfall from the tributary streams on the Mourne Mountains to soften the flax. Sometime in the late 20th century, Moygashel built a new mill, and in 1993 the sight of the old mill was developed as Ireland's first outlet mall. Ulster Weavers Apparel Ltd. aquired Moygashel Linen in 2001.


In the 1940's, 50's and 60's Moygashel linen was available to purchase as yardage in fabric stores, as well as being used by designers and garment manufacturers. So well known was the Moygashel name, they had their own labels sewn into garments made from their fabrics. Some designers would also add the Moygashel name to their own labels.

Moygashel would take out full page ads in home sewing magazines as well as fine fashion magazines. The ad shown at the top of this post is from the 1954 Simplicity Spring Pattern magazine. Simplicity featured Moygashel linen in several of the garments made for the magazine, including the cover image shown above. Made from Simplicity pattern 4559 in peacock blue linen with red and white polka dot linen accents.

This dress is also Simplicity pattern 4559, made in Moygashel crease resistant linen.

This suit was made from Simplicity pattern 4550, also in Moygashel crease resistant linen.

Vintage Moygashel fabrics from the 1940's, 50's, and 60's are so highly prized, they sell for high prices when you can find them.

New at Couture Allure - Vintage Dresses and Vintage Suits

Newly listed at Couture Allure are several designer dresses and a couple of fabulous vintage suits.

My favorite this week is this gorgeous 1950's red and yellow brocade cocktail dress with matching swing coat by Frank Tisch.

Here's a stunning 1970's Pauline Trigere evening gown. Worked in a hand-painted silk georgette with gold metallic woven in, this gown's design is based on the style of an Asian cheongsam mixed with an Indian sari.

You have got to click in and see the other pictures of this 1950's Rothmoor suit. The matching cape is attached with buttons at the shoulders, and the jacket itself is fitted and belted. Simply smashing!

New, old stock, this gorgeous 1970's Victor Costa for Neiman Marcus dress is worked in white Cluny lace layered over nude color taffeta lining. Perfect for a summer formal party or wedding!

One of our last prom dresses this season, this 1950's party dress is worked in light blue chiffon layered over pink taffeta and it has darker blue free floating drapes in the back.

You know we love Davidow suits, and this one is earlier, dating to the immediate post-war years of the mid-late 1940's.

Also this week, we've marked down and moved several things to our Sale page. Grab these bargains while you can!