Tuesday, August 18, 2009
Ruben Torres - Futuristic Fashion
Ruben Torres was a designer in the futuristic Space-Age era 1960's. Not much is known about him today, but this fascinating image from a 1966 magazine sent me on the hunt for more information.
Torres was born in Dallas, TX and graduated from Southern Methodist University in 1952. From there, he went to Paris and served an apprenticeship with Haute Couturier Jules Crahay. He then moved to Portland, Oregon where he designed ski wear for White Stag. About 1960, he moved back to Paris, where he worked for couturier Nina Ricci from about 1961-64. In July 1966, he presented his first couture collection with his own label in Paris. At the same time, Torres felt the future of fashion was in mass production, and he partnered with Warner's Lingerie in New York to present a line of lingerie and loungewear.
Torres's designs centered around stretch fabrics and he liked to use molded, rather than seamed, shapes. In 1966, he felt that couture techniques were no longer relevant and predicted that fashion of the future would be made with new production techniques that involved no sewing. I find no mention of Torres after 1967.
Before today, I had never heard of Ruben Torres and I have never seen a piece of his clothing. If you have a Ruben Torres garment, please contact me!
Labels:
designer ruben torres
Monday, August 17, 2009
A 70s Look to Inspire You
I need to preface this by telling you I had to scan this look in three separate images and merge them, so the above photo is not perfect, but you get the idea. In the early 70's, looks of the 1940's were a big influence on fashion. Here, from 1973, a lightweight wool shetland sweater is tucked in to a straight wool pencil skirt, both by Blassport. These basic pieces are accessorized with a chunky bangle bracelet, a menswear style watch, a leather belt, opaque tights, and Charles Jourdan shoess with a 1/2" platform and chunky heels.
Why not try tucking in a sweater this fall for a different look? Hint - choose a very lightweight knit so as not to add bulk to your hips.
Labels:
1973,
Bill Blass
Sunday, August 16, 2009
New at Couture Allure - Vintage Dresses, Suits and Coats
It's definitely starting to look like Fall at Couture Allure! This week, we've added several wool suits, a coat or two, and some wonderful dresses. Click the What's New button from the home page to always see the lastest additions to our site.
Perhaps the most interesting piece added this week is this vintage late 1970's one sleeved dress by Rebecca for I. Magnin. The textile was designed by Phyllis Kressner, a Chicago and Italy based artist. Kressner's pieces are found in museums and art galleries.
I don't often find wonderful suits in larger sizes, so if this vintage 1940's wool suit fits you, I recommend that you grab it quick!
Another fun suit, this one by Goldworm. From the 1970's, this suit is fashioned of a brown and black sweater knit and is decorated with yarn fringe.
Dan Millstein was one of the best suit and coat makers on Seventh Avenue in the 50's and 60's. The company made copies of Paris originals for the American market. This late 1950's coat is fashioned of black crushed velvet with the texture of broadtail and has genuine fox fur cuffs.
This vintage 1960's coat and dress set by Royal Lynne was made in Hong Kong of metallic gold and black brocade.
I had to show you the back of this stunning 1930's evening gown. Fashioned of luxurious bias cut black velvet, the back neckline plunges almost to the waist and is decorated with a red plastic buckle.
Perhaps the most interesting piece added this week is this vintage late 1970's one sleeved dress by Rebecca for I. Magnin. The textile was designed by Phyllis Kressner, a Chicago and Italy based artist. Kressner's pieces are found in museums and art galleries.
I don't often find wonderful suits in larger sizes, so if this vintage 1940's wool suit fits you, I recommend that you grab it quick!
Another fun suit, this one by Goldworm. From the 1970's, this suit is fashioned of a brown and black sweater knit and is decorated with yarn fringe.
Dan Millstein was one of the best suit and coat makers on Seventh Avenue in the 50's and 60's. The company made copies of Paris originals for the American market. This late 1950's coat is fashioned of black crushed velvet with the texture of broadtail and has genuine fox fur cuffs.
This vintage 1960's coat and dress set by Royal Lynne was made in Hong Kong of metallic gold and black brocade.
I had to show you the back of this stunning 1930's evening gown. Fashioned of luxurious bias cut black velvet, the back neckline plunges almost to the waist and is decorated with a red plastic buckle.
Labels:
what's new
Saturday, August 15, 2009
Friday, August 14, 2009
1963 Fashion for Mad Men - Hair and Makeup
This will be the final installment in my series on actual fashions from 1963 as inspiration for Mad Men. I'm so glad you've enjoyed it! It's been a lot of fun for me. Mad Men Season 3 premieres Sunday night at 10pm on AMC. Don't miss it!
In 1963, we begin to see "big hair" and a definite change in makeup. Of the three main female characters, I would expect Joan to be the early adapter of these styles.
Jackie Kennedy's bouffant do is the hairstyle of the time. We see all kinds of variations, with pageboy flips, lots of teasing, and height on top of the head. Hairstyles are held in place with lots of aerosol hairspray.

The bubble hairstyle also continues to be popular, but with more height.
For evening, hair becomes very elaborate and tall. Women use rats, falls, and even wigs to accomplish the look.
One has to wonder how much her head weighs with all that hair!
Makeup starts to change radically at this time. Revlon has a brand new product - powder blush. The emphasis moves from a strong brow and lip to a strong eye. Red lipstick is now passé. Lighter pinks rule.
Thick eyeliner and lots of mascara are used on eyes now. False eyelashes start to show up for evening. Light blue eyeshadow is just around the corner.
Brows are still very groomed, but are no longer "drawn on" with heavy brow makeup.
I would like to thank Vix for sharing this wonderful Vanity Fair interview with Mad Men costume designer Janie Bryant. It's a great read, and you'll get some insight into why Janie dresses some of the characters as she does.
In 1963, we begin to see "big hair" and a definite change in makeup. Of the three main female characters, I would expect Joan to be the early adapter of these styles.
Jackie Kennedy's bouffant do is the hairstyle of the time. We see all kinds of variations, with pageboy flips, lots of teasing, and height on top of the head. Hairstyles are held in place with lots of aerosol hairspray. 
The bubble hairstyle also continues to be popular, but with more height.
For evening, hair becomes very elaborate and tall. Women use rats, falls, and even wigs to accomplish the look.
One has to wonder how much her head weighs with all that hair!
Makeup starts to change radically at this time. Revlon has a brand new product - powder blush. The emphasis moves from a strong brow and lip to a strong eye. Red lipstick is now passé. Lighter pinks rule.
Thick eyeliner and lots of mascara are used on eyes now. False eyelashes start to show up for evening. Light blue eyeshadow is just around the corner.
Brows are still very groomed, but are no longer "drawn on" with heavy brow makeup.I would like to thank Vix for sharing this wonderful Vanity Fair interview with Mad Men costume designer Janie Bryant. It's a great read, and you'll get some insight into why Janie dresses some of the characters as she does.
Labels:
mad men,
vintage hairdos,
vintage makeup
Thursday, August 13, 2009
1963 Fashion for Mad Men - The Undergarments
Luckily enough, we are often shown glimpses of the undergarments and lingerie worn by the female characters on Mad Men. Will we ever forget Episode 5 from Season 1 when Betty and Don return home from a party, Don unzips her evening gown, and we get to see the strapless corselette and full length half slip she wears underneath?
Mad Men costume designer Janie Bryant does put the female cast of Mad Men in period appropriate undergarments. She has to for the clothing to fit correctly. Here is a look at underwear and lingerie from 1963.

Color is the new big thing in undergarments. Vanity Fair introduced slips, bras, and girdles in Forget-Me-Not blue, a perfect choice for Betty.
Prints make an appearance too. Vassarette made this French Gravure print set in pink, blue, or black with white. I can see Joan in this, can you?
Peggy will stick with white.

All of the characters will wear girdles and structured bras....
...or one piece shapers.
Stockings are a must. Pantyhose were not invented yet, and no woman would ever leave the house with bare legs.

For evening, strapless coreselettes or long line bras with girdles or garter belts keep things in shape without baring an embarassing bra strap.
Expect to continue to see lacy nylon nightgowns and peignoir sets.
And perhaps a quilted housecoat or robe at breakfast.
Mad Men costume designer Janie Bryant does put the female cast of Mad Men in period appropriate undergarments. She has to for the clothing to fit correctly. Here is a look at underwear and lingerie from 1963.
Color is the new big thing in undergarments. Vanity Fair introduced slips, bras, and girdles in Forget-Me-Not blue, a perfect choice for Betty.
Prints make an appearance too. Vassarette made this French Gravure print set in pink, blue, or black with white. I can see Joan in this, can you?
Peggy will stick with white.
All of the characters will wear girdles and structured bras....
...or one piece shapers.
Stockings are a must. Pantyhose were not invented yet, and no woman would ever leave the house with bare legs.
For evening, strapless coreselettes or long line bras with girdles or garter belts keep things in shape without baring an embarassing bra strap.
Expect to continue to see lacy nylon nightgowns and peignoir sets.
And perhaps a quilted housecoat or robe at breakfast.
Labels:
mad men,
vintage undergarments
Wednesday, August 12, 2009
1963 Fashion for Mad Men - Peggy Olson
Peggy, oh Peggy. From today's perspective, she sometimes frustrates me with her meek attitude, but the writers of Mad Men have it just right, since the feminist movement won't start for another 7 or 8 years.
Peggy Olson is a Copywriter at Sterling Cooper. Her style of dress is safe and often quite tenative. In the last season, Peggy seemed to gain some self-confidence and started wearing fitted sheath dresses, but always in neutral colors and classic patterns with high necklines. Above all, she does not want to stand out and call attention to herself.
Peggy is a bit behind the times fashion-wise, so it is difficult to find actual 1963 styles that she would wear. By rights, I should have been looking in fashion magazines from 1961 for her, but here are a few ideas about how she can update her look.
Peggy would feel comfortable in a sweater and skirt. This sweater has a suede front, which makes it less "sweater girl" in feel. It's demure enough for Peggy.
This high-necked A-line dress is a safe option for Peggy. She wouldn't have the confidence to wear the scarf, though.
This wool jumper worn over a blouse with a Peter Pan collar is an outfit that Peggy would certainly feel comfortable in. Less fitted through the waist, the shift dress is becoming very popular in 1963.
This semi-fitted shift dress with rolled collar and big buttons down the side is about as risky a fashion statement as Peggy might make. But every girl wanted to dress like Jackie Kennedy, and this dress is certainly in Jackie's style.
What would I like to see Peggy wear? How about wearing a matching jacket over a basic sheath dress to give the look of a suit? Will Peggy have enough self confidence this year to do so? We'll have to wait and see.
Peggy Olson is a Copywriter at Sterling Cooper. Her style of dress is safe and often quite tenative. In the last season, Peggy seemed to gain some self-confidence and started wearing fitted sheath dresses, but always in neutral colors and classic patterns with high necklines. Above all, she does not want to stand out and call attention to herself. Peggy is a bit behind the times fashion-wise, so it is difficult to find actual 1963 styles that she would wear. By rights, I should have been looking in fashion magazines from 1961 for her, but here are a few ideas about how she can update her look.
Peggy would feel comfortable in a sweater and skirt. This sweater has a suede front, which makes it less "sweater girl" in feel. It's demure enough for Peggy.
This high-necked A-line dress is a safe option for Peggy. She wouldn't have the confidence to wear the scarf, though.
This wool jumper worn over a blouse with a Peter Pan collar is an outfit that Peggy would certainly feel comfortable in. Less fitted through the waist, the shift dress is becoming very popular in 1963.
This semi-fitted shift dress with rolled collar and big buttons down the side is about as risky a fashion statement as Peggy might make. But every girl wanted to dress like Jackie Kennedy, and this dress is certainly in Jackie's style.
What would I like to see Peggy wear? How about wearing a matching jacket over a basic sheath dress to give the look of a suit? Will Peggy have enough self confidence this year to do so? We'll have to wait and see.
Labels:
mad men,
peggy olson
Tuesday, August 11, 2009
1963 Fashion for Mad Men - Betty Draper
Housewife and mother Betty Draper on AMC's Mad Men is one of the few female characters with enough money to dress in expensive clothes, and I sure love to watch what she wears.
Judging by the gallery photos for season three at the Mad Men website, it looks like Betty is moving away from her preference for full skirted dresses, and this makes sense, as the full skirted dress is definitely on the way out of fashion in 1963. Betty also preferred demure cashmere twinsets and blouses with skirts. It will be fun to watch Betty explore clothing that fits her figure more closely as she continues to try and find happiness in her life.
As season 3 opens, Betty will be 9 months pregnant with her 3rd child. This plaid blouse with grey flannel jerkin and skirt are typical of maternity wear in 1963.
This pale blue silk dress by Harvey Berin is perfectly suited to Betty's post-pregnancy cool and sophisticated new style.
While Betty explores more figure fitting styles, I'm sure we'll see her slip back into her former comfort zone at times. This brown and white stripe cotton dress by Nelly Don would add a bit of fun to her wardrobe.
This Carlye dress with it's embroidered bodice and pleated skirt also hearkens back to Betty's more traditional style.

But, Betty, how about this Branell silk ottoman A-line dress with matching coat? Perfect for ladies who lunch in the big city.
Betty is one of the few female characters on the show who wears evening gowns. This beaded silk sheath with matching silk evening coat is perfect for Betty to make a grand eye-popping entrance.
Betty is also one of the few to wear fur on the show. Will Don try to woo Betty back with another fur coat? We suggest chinchilla by Fredrica.
Judging by the gallery photos for season three at the Mad Men website, it looks like Betty is moving away from her preference for full skirted dresses, and this makes sense, as the full skirted dress is definitely on the way out of fashion in 1963. Betty also preferred demure cashmere twinsets and blouses with skirts. It will be fun to watch Betty explore clothing that fits her figure more closely as she continues to try and find happiness in her life.
As season 3 opens, Betty will be 9 months pregnant with her 3rd child. This plaid blouse with grey flannel jerkin and skirt are typical of maternity wear in 1963.
This pale blue silk dress by Harvey Berin is perfectly suited to Betty's post-pregnancy cool and sophisticated new style.
While Betty explores more figure fitting styles, I'm sure we'll see her slip back into her former comfort zone at times. This brown and white stripe cotton dress by Nelly Don would add a bit of fun to her wardrobe.
This Carlye dress with it's embroidered bodice and pleated skirt also hearkens back to Betty's more traditional style.
But, Betty, how about this Branell silk ottoman A-line dress with matching coat? Perfect for ladies who lunch in the big city.
Betty is one of the few female characters on the show who wears evening gowns. This beaded silk sheath with matching silk evening coat is perfect for Betty to make a grand eye-popping entrance.
Betty is also one of the few to wear fur on the show. Will Don try to woo Betty back with another fur coat? We suggest chinchilla by Fredrica.
Labels:
betty draper,
mad men
Monday, August 10, 2009
1963 Fashion for Mad Men - Joan Holloway
Mad Men Season 3 starts this Sunday on AMC. This season will be set in 1963. All this week, I'm going to take a look at actual fashion from 1963 magazines so we'll have an idea of what our favorite characters might be wearing.
Office Manager Joan Holloway knows how to wear fitted dresses that show off her curves, while still maintaining a look that is right on the edge of professional. In 1963, fashion is becoming a bit looser, with A-line shapes, slight gathers at the waist of skirts, and boxier jackets and tops over fitted skirts. It will be interesting to see how that translates into Joan's wardrobe, but I imagine she will still wear her body-hugging styles.
I can see Joan wearing the following garments:
This two piece set by Shannon Rogers for Jerry Silverman in shamrock green with a printed scarf has a fitted skirt and a body skimming top that buttons in the back.
This deep blue sheath by Wilroy gives a nod to the looser shapes with it's slight gathers under the bust. The shallow V neckline adds that touch of sexy that Joan needs.
Floral prints are important, and I think Joan could rock this look by Macshore Classics. The shell blouse and cardigan style jacket are worn over a fitted skirt. Of course, Joan would remove the jacket as soon as she arrived at the office.
Knits are becoming important and this Nantucket Knitters two piece set is the type of thing Joan would wear in a heartbeat.
Another perfect choice for Joan, this Herbert Sondheim red dress has slight gathers under the bust and, in a nod to Jackie Kennedy. a perfectly placed bow.
For cocktails, this brocade fitted sheath with a little bolero jacket would definitely find a place in Joan's closet. This one, by Sophie of Saks, would be far out of Joan's price range, but you can bet she'd find something similar that she could afford.
Office Manager Joan Holloway knows how to wear fitted dresses that show off her curves, while still maintaining a look that is right on the edge of professional. In 1963, fashion is becoming a bit looser, with A-line shapes, slight gathers at the waist of skirts, and boxier jackets and tops over fitted skirts. It will be interesting to see how that translates into Joan's wardrobe, but I imagine she will still wear her body-hugging styles. I can see Joan wearing the following garments:
This two piece set by Shannon Rogers for Jerry Silverman in shamrock green with a printed scarf has a fitted skirt and a body skimming top that buttons in the back.
This deep blue sheath by Wilroy gives a nod to the looser shapes with it's slight gathers under the bust. The shallow V neckline adds that touch of sexy that Joan needs.
Floral prints are important, and I think Joan could rock this look by Macshore Classics. The shell blouse and cardigan style jacket are worn over a fitted skirt. Of course, Joan would remove the jacket as soon as she arrived at the office.
Knits are becoming important and this Nantucket Knitters two piece set is the type of thing Joan would wear in a heartbeat.
Another perfect choice for Joan, this Herbert Sondheim red dress has slight gathers under the bust and, in a nod to Jackie Kennedy. a perfectly placed bow.
For cocktails, this brocade fitted sheath with a little bolero jacket would definitely find a place in Joan's closet. This one, by Sophie of Saks, would be far out of Joan's price range, but you can bet she'd find something similar that she could afford.
Labels:
1963 vintage dresses,
Joan Holloway,
mad men













