Weekend Eye Candy - Paul Poiret, 1925

Two-tone coat by Paul Poiret, c. 1925. A garment by Paul Poiret is my all-time vintage Holy Grail. I would faint if I ever found this coat.

Photo by Lipnitzki-Viollet from the book "Poiret" by Yvonne Deslandres

Luis Estevez - 1961, Part 2

What happens when you buy a multi-page ad in a fashion magazine? You get your dresses featured editorially, of course! In the same issue of Harper's Bazaar that featured the ad pages of Luis Estevez dresses in Mexico I showed you yesterday, the magazine features 2 full pages of Estevez dresses with a focus on lace for evening. You'll notice the same two-piece waistline inserts on two of these evening dresses that we saw on some of the day dresses yesterday.

At left, white lace dress with black silk bow at waist. Sold in 1961 for $100 (about $735 in today's dollar). Hat by Halston of Bergdorf Goodman (yes that Halston).
At right, black lace and white silk organza with a turquoise silk two-piece sash. Sold in 1961 for $125 (about $919 in today's dollar). Hat by Halston. Earrings by Miriam Haskell.

At left, strapless black re-embroidered lace with white silk organza and vibrant pink silk two-piece waistband. Sold in 1961 for $185 (about $1360 in today's dollar). Hat by Vincent Harmik. Earrings by Miriam Haskell.
At right, black lace one-shoulder dress with side draping. Sold in 1961 for $110 (about $808 in today's dollar). Hat by Emme. All gloves by Kislav.

I hope you've enjoyed our look at dresses by Luis Estevez this week. I always count him as one of my favorite designers. In a Life magazine article dated April 2, 1956, Luis Estevez said his wife was his inspiration for his feminine designs. "She likes her dresses to have sharp lines and to be as sexy as possible within the boundaries of good taste." I think he was still true to that mantra 5 years later.

Photos by Melvin Sokolsky for Harper's Bazaar.

Luis Estevez - 1961, Part 1

In 1961, Luis Estevez again teamed up with Mexican tourism in a multi-page ad for Harper's Bazaar. This time, however, the photos are in color, there are only 3 pages instead of 9, and the photos are all taken at one location, the Temple of Quetzalcoatl.

At left, flare-skirted white cotton printed with pink roses and a linen inset waistband. Sold for $70 in 1961 (about $515 in today's dollar).
At right, white cotton sheath with yellow and orange floral print and inset linen waistband. Sold for $55 in 1961 (about $404 in today's dollar).

At left, black linen sheath with a basket-weave neckline. Sold for $90 in 1961 (about $661 in today's dollar).
At right, Estevez sews together silk scarves in a yellow daisy print with solid borders to make this sheath dress. Sold for $80 in 1961 (about $588 in today's dollar).

At left, pink silk bodice with softly flared white silk chiffon skirt. Sold for $125 in 1961 (about $928 in today's dollar).
Center, fitted sheath in beige and white ribbed cotton. Sold for $65 in 1961 (about $478 in today's dollar).
At right, magenta pink silk/linen sheath with dramatic slashed back. Sold for $80 in 1961 (about $588 in today's dollar).

All photos from Harper's Bazaar, 1961. No photographer credit given.

Luis Estevez - 1960, Part 2

Yesterday, we looked at part 1 of this 1960s multi-page spread of fashions by Luis Estevez photographed in Mexico. Today, the rest of those captivating images featuring cocktail dresses.

At the Paseo de la Reforma, the model wears Estevez' belted butterfly tunic dress in white lace. Sold for $125.00 in 1960 (about $928.00 in today's dollar).

At the Castillo de Chapultepec in Mexico City, the model wears a full skirted dress with a molded bodice in black silk satin-faced organza with embroidery and scalloped edges. Sold for $110.00 in 1960 (about $809.00 in today's dollar).

On the steps of the Basilica de Guadalupe, Estevez black silk chiffon dress with draped hip sash. Sold for $90.00 in 1960 (about $668.00 in today's dollar).

At the National University of Mexico, a black Taj silk cocktail sheath with a side-slashed neckline. Sold for $65.00 in 1960 (about $478.00 in today's dollar). This is my favorite of all the dresses shown over the past two days. Luis Estevez was a genius at designing unusual necklines. In fact, he became known as the "Neckline King" in the trade.

To learn more about Luis Estevez, visit David Patrick Columbia's New York Social Diary post about Estevez, which includes a reprint of a biographical article from Santa Barbara magazine and lots more photos of gorgeous Estevez dresses.

All photos by William Ward for a multi-page advertisement that appeared in Harper's Bazaar, 1960.

Luis Estevez - 1960, Part 1

In the late 1950s and early 60s, it was common for travel destinations and tour companies to do fashion spreads in magazines in a combined marketing effort. Photos would be taken of models wearing designer clothes in exotic locales. The clothing would enchant the magazine reader, while extolling the charm of the travel destination. The photos I'll show you today and tomorrow feature fashions of Luis Estevez in a multi-page advertisement for travel to Mexico from 1960.

Two models climb the pyramids of San Juan Teotihuacan.
At left, a black, white, and yellow cotton daisy print dress with Kabuki sleeves. Sold for $65.00 in 1960 (about $478.00 in today's dollar).
At right, a black silk/linen sheath with matching stole. Sold for $70.00 in 1960 (about $515.00 in today's dollar).

Cotton windowpane check is used for these two dresses, photographed at Acapulco's Gold Coast Beach. Note how the necklines are cut to follow the pattern of the fabric.
At left, black and white sheath. Sold for $50.00 in 1960 (about $368.00 in today's dollar).
At right, blue and white full skirted dress. Sold for $65.00 in 1960 (about $478.00 in today's dollar).

In Colonial Guanajuato, a Spanish silver mining town, the model wears a silk dress with giant black polka dots. A wide black patent belt narrows the waist under the floating topper. Sold for $70.00 in 1960 (about $515.00 in today's dollar).

At the cathedral of Guanajuato, the model wears a cotton zebra striped ensemble. The dress has a solid black bodice with cap sleeves. The jacket floats away from the fitted dress. Sold for $110.00 in 1960 (about $809.00 in today's dollar).

At the diving cliffs of Acapulco, a black and white silk sheath with Kabuki sleeves and a set-in belt. Sold for $65.00 in 1960 (about $478.00 in today's dollar).

Tomorrow, evening fashions by Estevez from the same photo shoot.

All photos by William Ward for a multi-page advertisement that appeared in Harper's Bazaar, 1960.

Awful 80s Fashion #7

Today, another in our series on Awful 80s Fashion! Are you too thin, too toned, too tiny? Here's how to add pounds instantly!

Wear a dress cut from big squares of fabric and add horizontal stripes across your hips!

Wear a waist length chunky knit sweater and add puff sleeves for even more width!

Take a big bold print with horizontal stripes and zig-zags, add pleats and huge shoulder pads!

Wear a pastel skirt with lots of pleats and three times as much fabric as you need. Add a sweater vest that blousons at the waist!

Wear a big, bold plaid with gathers at your hips. Add an oversized sailor collar and a bow for that cutesy, innocent look!

Wear colored ankle socks with white shoes. Add a sweater vest that two of you could fit into.

All photos from a 1985 Neiman Marcus catalog. Yes, Neiman Marcus!

Weekend Eye Candy - Romeo Gigli, 1989

Normally on Sundays I do a post showing you some of the new things I added to the site during the week. It was a crazy week, though. I did list 17 vintage hats on the site, but most of them have already sold. Instead, you get a second installment of Weekend Eye Candy!

From 1989, this black crystal pleat cocoon wrap is by Romeo Gigli. Simply constructed from a double width of fabric with a single seam down the center back that is gathered and tied with ribbons, this wrap speaks volumes about Gigli's genious.

Photo by Nana Watanabe from the book "Flair, Fashion Collected by Tina Chow"

Weekend Eye Candy - Valentino, 1967

Valentino white and orange striped cotton coat with white cotton pants from the Spring-Summer, 1967 Couture collection. Hat by Mirella Petteni.

Photo by Gian Paolo Barbieri.

Vintage Swimsuits - 1984

Funny Girl brand stripe maillot

Today, a look at swimsuits from 1984. Legs were cut high on the sides, sometimes almost to the waist. One piece maillots in bright acid colors were high on the list of must-haves. Warm sun and sand were preferred. Hope your weekend includes one or both!

Ariel brand nylon/lycra with a shiny finish

Armonia, Italy strapless maillot with feather print.

Jean-Remy Daumas neon pink with halter strap.

DeWeese Designs flower petal bikini and cover-up.

Arena stripe with criss-cross straps in back.

Norma Kamali OMO two piece with a strapless 8-gore bustier top and high cut bottom.

Meet Jessica and Alexis

You've told me how much you love seeing real people wearing vintage, and today I have some true beauties for you!

A couple of months ago, I was honored to sell this gorgeous vintage 1960s evening gown to British actress Jessica Fox. The hem of the gown has godet inserts all the way around so it flares out mermaid style.

Jessica plays Nancy Hayton on the British soap opera "Hollyoaks", and she wore the gown to the British Soap Opera Awards this past Sunday!

Jessica, you look gorgeous, and that low back is perfect on you!

You've met Alexis before. She wore this 1950s Anne Fogarty velvet dress purchased from Couture Allure to her Winter Ball last year.

Alexis also purchased this stunning 1940s Patullo evening gown in navy blue with a lighter blue insert and flowers at the waist.

Here is Alexis wearing the Patullo gown for her prom in April. She did a wonderful job of pulling an entire outfit together with a white ostrich plume in her hair and white lace gloves. Her hair and makeup are perfect accents to this glamorous look. Alexis, you're beautiful!

Roberta di Camerino

Giuliana Coen Camerino has died at age 90. Founder and designer of Roberta di Camerino, she died at home on Monday night.


Camerino began her career in Switzerland, where she had fled to escape Nazi persecution. She crafted handmade handbags, and named her company after the movie "Roberta", which starred Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers. Returning to Venice after the war, Camerino started using Venetian craftsmen to construct the distinctive brass hardware for her bags.

While using the finest of Italian leathers, many Roberta di Camerino bags were also made of velvet that was woven on antique looms.

During the 1950s, Camerino began a line of clothing, and she took part in the first shows of Italian fashion at Palazzo Pitti. However, in the 1960s, her work with trompe l'oeil effects on jersey knits was what brought her great success with clothing.
Camerino devised this method of trompe l'oeil in order to produce simply cut garments that were quick to manufacture and easy to wear, while capturing the attention with an eye to irony.

The dresses were made from flat pieces of fabric onto which the colors were printed separately, allowing time for each to dry before applying the next.

In 1980, the Whitney Museum in New York installed a retrospective exhibit of Camerino's work. How I would have loved to have seen it! Today, the Roberta di Camerino company is owned by the Sixty Group.

Le Groupe Mode et Création

In 1973, Pierre Bergé created "Le Groupe Mode et Création", "The Fashion and Design Group". The group consisted of 8 French designers of pret-a-porter, or ready-to-wear and was formed to promote the originality and creativity of French pret-a-porter on the international fashion scene. I don't believe the group was long-lasting, as I can't find any information about it, other than that it was formed in 1973. However, in 1975, the group took out a double page ad in American Vogue magazine to salute the American Bicentennial.

"Le Groupe Mode et Creation salutes America's Bicentennial and two hundred years of the French regard for liberty, equality and brotherhood that helped formulate America's ideology. Today, there is a modern bond of admiration between France and the United States. Through our combined efforts in the world of fashion, we have inspired the spirit of competition supported by mutual respect."

So, how did you do on yesterday's quiz?

1. Kenzo, designer of Jap, 2. Sonia Rykiel, and 3. Yves Saint Laurent for Rive Gauche.

4. Karl Lagerfeld (!) designer of Chloé, 5. Marc Bohan, designer of Christian Dior, and 6. Jacqueline Jacobson, designer of Dorthée Bis.

7. Emmanuelle Khanh, and 8. Emanuel Ungaro.

Who Are These People?

Who are these 8 people? Hint - They're all fashion designers. Come on, give it a try. That third one is easy!








Now that you've made your guesses, tell me what is the common denominator? Why these 8? Fashion history fascinates me, and I hope you're intrigued. Answers tomorrow!