Saturday, June 19, 2010

Weekend Eye Candy - June Bride, 1964

Jacques Griffe uses exquisite lace for this bridal gown from 1964.

Photo by Jean-Claude Peretz.

Friday, June 18, 2010

1930 Swimsuits #2

More swimsuit heaven, all from 1930.

Harlequin with diamonds.

Angles and curves and....

...a matching cape with orbs!

This one comes with a matching sleeveless jacket.

Probably the closest to what I consider to be a typical 1930s swimsuit, but far from boring!

Thursday, June 17, 2010

1930 Swimsuits #1

When I ask you to think about what a swimsuit from the 1930s looks like, you probably picture a suit in boring black, right? Me too. That's why these photos from 1930 blew me out of the water (ha ha, no pun intended!). Today, part 1 of 1930 swimsuit heaven. Take note of the beach shoes and sandals, as well as the swim caps.

My favorite comes with a matching cape!

Diamonds are a girl's best friend!

This one has an op-art feel. Check out how the black strap extends into the suit.

Low cut!

This one has a squid or octopus type design on the front....

...that extends to the back.

And you all know that if you're looking for an authentic vintage swimsuit, you should be shopping at my sister Pam's site, Glamoursurf.com, right?

Wednesday, June 16, 2010

How to Find the Vintage 1950s Wedding Dress of Your Dreams

Are you frustrated because you can't find the 1950s wedding dress you've been dreaming of? You're looking for a cocktail or ballerina length full skirted dress and all you're finding are full length gowns? You want strapless and everything has sleeves? That's because dresses like this Jacques Griffe from 1955 were not the norm.

You're more likely to find full skirted tulle dresses in full length.

And you're even more likely to find a dress like this that is far more simple and covered up. In the 1950s, brides were expected to look virginal and modest and churches often required brides to wear a dress with sleeves.

So, how does a bride-to-be find the 1950s style wedding dress she's been dreaming of? Here are some ideas to get you started.

1. Stop looking at wedding dresses! What you're really looking for is a 1950s evening gown, cocktail, party, or prom dress that happens to be white or ivory. A party dress is far more likely to have the design details you want, like a strapless bodice, or a full skirt that is shorter than floor length. Use search terms like "1950s white prom dress" or "vintage white evening gown" or "1950s white full skirt dress". By widening your search beyond just wedding dresses, you're far more likely to find a dress that will work for you.

2. Consider a 1950s daytime dress in white or ivory cotton, and add details like rhinestones, lace appliques, or beading to it. A wide satin sash and a bridal tiara would go a long way to making this dress work for a wedding.

3. Consider color. There are lots of 1950s prom dresses and evening gowns in pastel colors like pale pink, soft peach, ice blue, light lilac, or dove gray that would work for a wedding. Do you really have to have white? The red roses could be removed from this pale pink lace gown and it would make a beautiful wedding dress.

4. It's best to leave a vintage evening gown at it's original length. If you're considering buying a gown and having it cut off and shortened, however, be sure to consult with your seamstress before buying to make sure that the design can be shortened. A gown like this would probably look fine if shortened, but the one in the second photo above would look odd if it were to be cut off. (By the way, I never advocate altering a dress by cutting it off, but if you're thinking of doing it, make sure it will work before taking scissors to the dress. And, please, don't tell me about it!)

5. Remember you WILL need to wear a proper foundation garment under your dress. 1950s dresses were designed to be worn with a corset or girdle, and you'll probably need a full, long line corselette, like the one shown here. Need tips on how to find a modern foundation that will work? Check out this post from last year. Keep in mind that the standard difference between the bust and waist measurements of a 1950s dress is 10". For a modern gal, a dress that fits you in the bust is likely to be too small in the waist without a proper corset. Even so, you may need to alter the waistline in order to make it bigger. Be sure to ask your seller if there is room in the seams to do this. It is far easier to alter the waist than the bust.

Here's a great example of what I'm talking about. This is a 1950s strapless prom dress I just listed at Couture Allure that would make a great wedding dress. The white chiffon is lined with a pale lilac-blue taffeta for just a hint of color and the waistband is the same lilac-blue. This was not designed to be a wedding dress, but is perfect for the modern bride who wants a vintage wedding.

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

Serge Lutens for Christian Dior - 1973

Between the comments here and on Facebook, we had guesses from every decade between the 1920s and 2010 except the 1940s. And Benjamin made an interesting point about the ban on tobacco advertising in 1971 in the US, but this image was published in a French magazine! The decade that got the most guesses was the correct one. This image is from 1973.

In 1973, Serge Lutens designed this look for a series of French advertisements for Christian Dior cosmetics. The ads were entitled, "Les Aventureux de Dior", which translates to "The Adventurous (or Daring) Ones of Dior". The cosmetics, created by Lutens, included smoky eye colors and deep, dark red shades for lips and nails. Angelica Huston, who worked with Lutens in the 1970s, is quoted as saying that it usually took him 4 hours or more to create a look like this on a model's face.

Serge Lutens was born in 1942 in Lille, France. He experimented with makeup and photography as a teen, using his friends as models. In 1962, Lutens moved to Paris and was hired by Vogue magazine to do hair and makeup styling for photo shoots. It was there that he had the opportunity to work with Richard Avedon and Irving Penn. Christian Dior hired Lutens to create a cosmetics line in 1968.

The Dior cosmetics line has become one of the most successful in the world. It was Serge Lutens' styling and photography for the advertisements that helped propel sales in the 1970s. In 1980, Lutens left Dior to work for Shiseido Cosmetics, and he worked the same magic for that company through memorable advertising images.

For "Les Aventureux", Lutens used 1920s style gamine hairdos with very strong eyes and a bold red bow mouth. I find the images arresting and haunting. This isn't makeup. This is art.

In this video, you can watch Lutens at work creating the makeup look for the photo shoot.

Monday, June 14, 2010

Guess the Date

Lets start the week with a game. Can you guess the year this photo was taken? Answer tomorrow!

Sunday, June 13, 2010

New at Couture Allure - Vintage Cocktail Dresses

I added some great vintage cocktail and party dresses at Couture Allure this week. Be sure to check the What's New section frequently for your dream dress!






Saturday, June 12, 2010

Weekend Eye Candy - June Bride, 1955

Another bride from 1955, this time by Jacques Griffe. Isn't it romantic?

Friday, June 11, 2010

Sleek and Supple Jersey Dresses - 1973

The use of knit fabrics in clothing experienced a surge in popularity starting in the late 1960s. Couture designers preferred to work with knits in natural fibers, such as silk and rayon, but synthetic knits in polyester and nylon were also very popular with consumers. There's nothing quite like the fluid and graceful movement of a soft knit as it hugs your body. Here, some examples of supple, sultry, and slinky jersey knit evening dresses from 1973.

Yves St. Laurent rayon jersey

Bill Blass

Halston silk and rayon matte jersey

Morty Sussman for Mollie Parnis Boutique orlon jersey

Shannon Rogers for Jerry Silverman dacron jersey

Photos by Bob Richardson for Bazaar except #2 which is an ad from the same magazine.

Thursday, June 10, 2010

Fashion in Film - Down With Love

Yesterday we got to talking about the movie, "Down With Love" over at the Couture Allure Facebook Fan Page. I was happy to be able to recommend the movie to a few people who said they hadn't seen it, and now I'm telling you. If you're a vintage fashion lover, you must see this film!!!!

Made in 2003, and starring Renee Zellweger and Ewan McGregor, "Down With Love" is a spoof on the Doris Day/Rock Hudson bedroom comedies of the early 1960s.


The costumes were done by Daniel Orlandi, whose most recent work includes 2009's "The Blind Side". He also did the costumes for "Frost/Nixon" in 2008, another film in which the fashion is outstanding.

While it may look like it, there is not a single piece of actual vintage clothing in the film. "We designed everything in the movie, right down to Ewan McGregor's shirts and Renee's gloves," says Orlandi. Even so, I think he got it just right, with enough fun and color to make the clothes completely noticeable.

How can you not love a movie where Renee wears a white turban....

.....or a red fringed go-go dress? Do yourself a favor. Rent or buy this movie and watch it this weekend for the first or fiftieth time.

Here's a fun video where you can see some of the clothes in action. It ends kind of abruptly, but I think you'll enjoy it.

Wednesday, June 09, 2010

Paris Couturier Simone Gray

Mme. Simone Gray wearing one of her creations, 1928.
The evening dress is of blue lamé with gold and silver flowers.

I came across this image in an old magazine recently, and I immediately fell in love with Simone Gray. Who was she? I needed to know. Unfortunately, there is very little information about her that survives today, but I have been able to glean little tidbits here and there for you.

Simone wears her design in black satin and point d'esprit lace
adorned with white jacinth flowers, 1928.

Simone Gray, born in 1903, was a Parisian couturier from 1928 to 1933. Her couture house was listed alongside other notables, such as Jeanne Lanvin, Louiseboulanger, Lucien Lelong, Jean Patou, and Worth. Her atelier was located at 11, rue de Christophe Colomb in Paris.

From 1928, Simone Gray's "Watteau" dress in black velvet, lined in pink satin with rhinestone trim.

Each year, Simone Gray would attend the Deux Lidos gala wearing one of her most beautiful designs of the season. This gala was organized by the French fashion magazine L'Officiel de la Couture and the Hotel Lido, and would feature fashion shows of the latest couture during the party. Women who attended the gala would vie to be the most beautifully dressed.

Three robes de style, 1929 by Simone Gray.

Simone was described as a young woman who had wonderful taste and a thorough knowledge of the difficult art of dressing women. She had a deep respect for the line of a garment and would not sacrifice the overall effect.

Mme. Simone Gray wears her design of embroidered
cotton lawn accented with green moire, 1930.


The last mention of Simone Gray's couture house is found in the summer of 1933, where she is listed alongside such up-and-coming couturiers as Chanel, Schiaparelli, and Vionnet. Unfortunately, I can find no other information about her, but don't her designs make her fascinating? If anyone ever finds a dress by Simone Gray, please contact me through my website!

Please note: Biographical information about Simone Gray is copyright of Couture Allure and may not be copied without permission.

Photos by d'Ora, Paris.


Tuesday, June 08, 2010

Big Hair - 1964

It's been awhile since I've given you big hair inspiration. Today, for your enjoyment, hairstyles from 1964 and 1965.





Which one is your favorite?