Vacation Time! Are You Taking Vintage in Your Suitcase?

I am headed off for vacation and road trips for the rest of this month, but not to worry!  My assistant will be in the office to ship your orders and answer your questions while I'm away.

If you're going on a vacation of your own, I hope you'll be incorporating vintage into your wardrobe.  Need last minute ideas?  There are still lots of vintage and vintage inspired summer dresses, separates and accessories available at Couture Allure.

1970s cotton polka dot sundress

1960s Kahala cotton hostess dress

1970s hand embroidered peasant blouse

1980s abstract print cotton skirt

1950s 3-strand bead necklace

1970s large straw tote bag

1980s Benetton leather belt

Balenciaga Evening Gown - 1963

Hi-low hemlines....they've been around for years and years.  For spring of 1963, Balenciaga created this gorgeous gown.  The hemline exposes the ankle in front and lengthens to form a train in back.  Note how the designer echoes that line at the hip where the skirt attaches to the bodice.  What you can't see here is that he also echoes it at the neckline, which is high in front but dips to a low U in the back. 

The dress shown in this picture was not made in the Balenciaga workrooms, however.  It is an authorized copy made in the US by Nanty and sold at such high end retailers as Bergdorf Goodman, Stanley Korshak and Nan Duskin.  Jewelry by Vendome.

Photo by Irving Penn for Vogue magazine, 1963.

What's Under That Vintage Dress? Part 2

Monday's post about foundation garments got a lot of interest with comments, emails and even a phone call!  Here are a couple more examples today.

The strapless cocktail dress by Ceil Chapman shown above is worn over a strapless supportive bra and an open bottom girdle by Perma-lift. If you can't get the look without bulges between the two pieces, then wear an all-in-one corset.

And lest you think that girdles were only worn for evening, think again, my friends.  Women wore girdles with their daytime dresses too.  The Sportwhirl sheath shown here is worn with a supportive bra and panty girdle, both by Perma-lift.

I know what you're thinking.  "They don't make foundation garments like this anymore!"   WRONG!  There are several companies that do, including Secrets in Lace, as shown here.  Back in 2009, I did a long blog post about modern foundation garments to wear under your vintage clothing.  It includes tips and links to several companies that offer the types of corsetry you need.  Be sure to read the comments, as many readers shared other companies to look for too!

What's Under That Vintage Dress?

I post pictures of gorgeous vintage clothing here on my blog and on my Facebook, Twitter and Instagram feeds daily.  The comments and questions I receive most often deal with the tiny waists or fit of the dresses shown.  In our modern world, where most of our clothing is styled to be loose or made with stretch fabrics, we find it difficult to relate to wearing a dress that molds to the body like this. The answer, of course, is what she is wearing under that gown.

Before the late 1960s, every woman wore control undergarments, whether they be girdles, corsets, or an all-in-one, as shown here.  Every woman, every day.  You just can't get the look and fit presented in that first photo without some kind of foundation garments. Period. 

Red dress with cape by Pauline Trigere.  All-in-one corselet by Warner's. Both photos from a 2-page ad for Warner's in Harper's Bazaar, 1961.

Missoni - 1982

Missoni knits from the spring of 1982.  So right now.

Photo by Avi Meroz for Missoni ad, Town and Country magazine, 1982.

Pauline Trigere Suit - 1983

At an estate sale over the weekend, I picked up a big pile of Town & Country magazines from the 1980s.  While not focused exclusively on fashion, Town & Country is full of advertisements for luxury goods including loads of high end designer clothing and jewelry.  I'll be bringing you lots of those images over the next several months.

This stunning suit by Pauline Trigere was featured in a full page ad for the Martha luxury boutiques in 1983.  It looks like the sawtooth trim on the jacket is likely black suede and I imagine it adorns wool crepe in a jewel tone, likely red, emerald or cobalt blue.  The suit is paired with a black fox fur hat and stole and black gloves.  This look was the height of American high fashion at the time.

Greta Plattry Swimsuit - 1955

Love, love, love!  This little feature from Harper's Bazaar not only shows us the swimsuit, but gives a flat image of the terrific fabric it's made of.  The fabric is an Everglaze cotton by Tarnmoor and features various ships in yellow on white.  Greta Plattry used the fabric to make the adorable two piece swimsuit in 1955.  She paired it with a yellow corduroy beach jacket.  Suit sold for $12 and jacket for $17 in 1955 (about $106 and $150 in today's dollar.)

Photo by Robert Randall for Harper's Bazaar, 1955.

Yves St Laurent Models His First Men's Collection - 1969

Hugely successful French couturier Yves St. Laurent designed his first collection of ready to wear clothing for men in the fall of 1969.  The clothing was sold exclusively in the Rive Gauche boutiques in New York and Paris. Here, a few of the designs are modeled by St. Laurent himself for Vogue magazine.  The photos were all taken at his home, Dar El-Hansh, in Morocco.

Above: White gabardine suit with flapped pockets, worn with a black cotton voile shirt and striped silk scarf.

 Laced glove leather tunic and corduroy jeans.  The tunic was also available in suede.

The same suit as the first photo, but in pale pink worn with a cotton floral shirt.

Photos by Patrick Lichfield for Vogue magazine, 1969.

Pleats Please, 1962

This yummy evening dress was designed by Jo Copeland for Patullo in 1962.  Made of pleated black crepe with criss-crossed bands forming the neckline and falling to a bow at the back.  The raised waistline was fashion news in 1962.  Notice how it allows the pleats to hug the body so the dress fits in a way reminiscent of a Fortuny Delphos.  The dress sold for about $200 in 1962 ($1565.00 in today's dollar.)

Photo by Horst P. Horst for Vogue magazine, 1962

Carolyn Schnurer Folkloric Dresses - 1955

Carolyn Schnurer was well known for basing entire collections on the fabrics and ethnic traditions of the countries she visited on her world travels.  For the spring of 1955, she featured a collection based on the folk lore of Norway with fabric prints and design elements inspired by Norwegian traditions.  The fabrics here are Everglaze cottons by Ameritex for Schnurer.  Schnurer also designed the co-ordinating jewelry.

Above:  Swimsuit with buttoned straps and little pockets, sold for $18.95 in 1955 (about $167.00 in today's dollar.)
Sun dress with the same buttoned straps and pleats at the hem, sold for $29.95 in 1955 (about $264.00 in today's dollar.)

Darling dress with suspender detail, gathered cap sleeves and pleats at the hem.  Sold for $29.95 in 1955 (about $264.00 in today's dollar.)

Photos from a 2-page ad for Carolyn Schnurer and Ameritex Fabrics, featured in Harper's Bazaar, 1955.

Adele Simpson Ensemble - 1964

You know I love Bergdorf ads.  But it's the outfit here that catches my imagination.  From 1964, the Adele Simpson rayon sheath dress with interesting seaming is set off with a matching capelet.  The cape was lined in contrasting silk and the set came with a leather tie belt in the same color as the cape lining.  The color combinations were wonderful: navy with vivid green lining and belt, sea green with turquoise, gold nugget with black or black with gold nugget.  The set sold for $160 in 1964 (about $1220 in today's dollar.)

Which color would you choose? 

Cotton Suits for Spring - 1961

Cool, comfortable and certainly chic, did you know cotton tailors well?  Here are two great examples from 1961.

Above: Ben Zuckerman sheath dress and 3/4 coat in luscious pink cotton pique. Yummy!

Adele Simpson blue cotton jacket and skirt paired with a printed silk blouse.  The little jacket is lined in the same fabric as the blouse.  The giant buttons add just the perfect finishing touch.

Test Your Fashion Eye Answer

Did you see it?  The suit is a navy wool with a bolero jacket over a bias cut midi length skirt, worn with a white silk blouse.  All three pieces are by Stavropoulos.  Nothing wrong there.

The gold tassel belt is by Richelieu and adds a perfect bit of sparkle.  Nothing wrong there either.

Chunky platform shoes by Viner Bros. worn with dark hosiery.  Nope, that's OK.

Gloves by Crescendoe-Superb.  Wait!  Gloves in 1970?  No, no, no, no, no!  Gloves, like hats, had gone completely out of favor by this time, especially with the younger fashion reader that editor Diana Vreeland was appealing to.  They look very out of place with this ultra modern 1970 suit.  Why include them in the photo?  My guess would be that either Vreeland was under pressure to appeal to her more traditional readers from the powers on high at Vogue, or the Crescendoe company required their gloves be used in fashion shoots as part of an agreement to buy ad space in the magazine.  What do you think?

Photo by Bert Stern for Vogue magazine, 1970.

Test Your Fashion Eye - 1970

This image comes from a 1970 issue of Vogue magazine.  When you look at this photo, can you tell what is "off" or "out-of-place" and why?  Answer tomorrow!

Jean Patou - 1947

This gorgeous evening gown was designed by Jean Patou in the spring of 1947.  Sparkling gold sequins cover the strapless bodice and glimmer over the pale blue tulle skirt.  A dress like this must have captured the imagination of every woman in Paris after years of war and deprivation. The color combination inspires me today.  What does the gown say to you?

White Dresses for Graduation - 1949

It's long been a tradition at many schools that the female graduates are required to wear a white dress for the ceremony.  I'm not sure of the reasons for this, but here are two pretty choices from 1949.

Left:  White dotted swiss with eyelet lace by Nona.
Right:  Embroidered organdy with a velvet sash by Junior Accent.

Did you wear white for your graduation?

Meet Nancy and Sandie

I had a private sale the other day and my friend Nancy stopped by to do a little shopping.  Nancy has a great eye for fashion and she pulled out this lovely 1950s cotton dress that looked rather blah on the hanger.  As soon as she put it on, the dress came alive.  It looks like it was made for her, just 60 years ago!  Nancy, you look beautiful!

Nancy brought along her friend Sandie.  Sandie tried on this sequin covered party dress from the 1980s, and WOW!  Talk about glamour!  She will take this dress along to wear on a cruise, and she is sure to stand out from the crowd.  Sandie, you look gorgeous!

Have you shopped for vintage lately?  Perhaps you should!

Bernardo Moon Sandals - 1967

Bernardo Rudofsky began business in Italy in 1946.  He is credited with inventing the modern day sandal for women.  This full page ad for Bernardo's "Moon Sandal" appeared in Vogue in 1967.  Picnic at a monastary, anyone?  I love the fact there is a portable record player with several rock and roll albums on the blanket.  The monk sure is having fun!

The copy from the ad reads as follows:

"The Un-Ascetic Sandal
When you get down to the basics in sandals, you get pretty close to what a 15th century monk wore around the monastery.
Bernardo says even the sandal that's basic enough to be right with bathing suits, party pyjamas and everything in between, doesn't have to be a bore.
These bright shining discs, more at home on the moon than in a monastery, are Bernardo's "Moon Sandals" designed for 20th century people by Eva Sonnino."

 The Bernardo Footwear company is still in business today.  In Spring 2011, the company re-released two vintage styles in limited editions.  The Moon in Madras sandal was one of them.  The sandals are hand crafted in Italy and there are still limited sizes available of the Moon Sandal in red.  You can shop for them here.

Saks Ad - 1970

Here's something I just don't get.  This is a full page ad placed by Saks Fifth Avenue in a 1970 issue of Vogue magazine.  You and I both know how wild and colorful the prints used in clothing were at this time. The ad copy even states, "Liberated spirit. Coloring around-and-around, deep-beaded and braided on pure silk surah."

Why, then, did Saks chose to print this ad in black and white instead of full color?  Yes, the advertising cost would have been higher, but this ad just doesn't convey the dress as it should.  Perhaps 1970 was a time of belt-tightening and cutting costs. I find this a lot in the pages of most fashion magazines from this time period.  Clothing that should be shown in all its colorful glory is disappointingly printed in black and white.  OK, rant over.

I love the way the elaborate beading and braid at the neckline complements the wild print.  There is no designer mentioned, so this is likely by Saks' custom design department. Sophie Gimbel had just retired the year before, so I don't know who designed this beauty. I can tell you that the dress was $130 in 1970 (about $787 in today's dollar) and was worth every penny.

Photo from a Saks ad appearing in Vogue 1970.

Neutral Navy - 1956

Navy blue.  It's one of those neutral colors that is flattering on most everyone. It goes with every other color. It is perfect if black is too harsh on you. And, subliminally, navy says "success."

This two page ad for Rayon fabric from 1956 features 5 different navy blue dresses, all available at Henri Bendel. The hats are by Adolfo of Emme.

Above left:  Sheath dress with short jacket by Rembrant.
Above right:  Full skirt princess dress by Junior Sophisticate.

Left:  Sheath dress with short cape by Highlight.
Center:  Shirtwaist dress by Ira Rentner.
Right:  Full skirted dress by Richard Cole.

Which dress is perfect for you?  How do you wear navy blue?

Both photos from a 2 page advertisement for Rayon in Harper's Bazaar, 1956.