Tina Leser Swimsuit - 1945

A simple black swimsuit will always turn heads and this one by Tina Leser from 1945 is no exception.  But how do you stand out from the crowd?  Why not wear a pretty charm bracelet around your upper arm?  I like that idea!

Memorial Day

An impromtu parade celebrates the end of the war in August, 1945.

Today, in the US, we remember and give thanks to to all the brave men and women who have served and given their lives in the Armed Forces.  Thank you.

Weekend Eye Candy - Coralie Coat, 1945

I don't know much about the French designer Coralie other than to tell you she was working in Paris in 1945 as the French couture was emerging from the war years.  This maroon wool coat is elaborately decorated with loops and swirls in the same fabric.  Incredible!

Wartime Swimsuit Photos, 1945

Dick Pope was the owner of Cypress Gardens in Florida and also a photographer who did publicity shots for other Florida resorts.  Because of gasoline restrictions during WWII, Pope was forced to stop his travels throughout the state and take all of his photos at Cypress Gardens.  But without a beach or palm trees, Pope had to be innovative in his use of props.  These photos were taken in 1945.

 The photographer built a fake beach with some sand and beach grass on a wooden platform.

 Here, Pope uses a sawed off trunk of a palm tree to emulate a real one.

Who cares about the swimsuit.  I want the SHOES!!!!!!!!!

The model sits on a large stump while Pope holds a reflector to dramatically increase the sunlight.  Still want the SHOES!!!!!!!

A palm branch is held in place in a wooden contraption so the model can stand under it.

Simple Black Top Six Ways - 1945

During the years of WWII, fabric restrictions limited the amount of fabric manufacturers could use in garments.  Designers adapted by making skirts slimmer and shorter and eliminating fussy details.  Women became more creative with their use of accessories.  Here, from the summer of 1945, 6 ways to wear a simple black top.

Left:  A dress with cutaway shoulders and high neck, black on top, chestnut brown on bottom.  Worn with a leather belt and multiple necklaces.
Right:  One shoulder dress, black on top, red on bottom.  Worn with a leather belt and multiple bangle bracelets.  Both dresses by Henry Rosenfeld.  Sold for $15 in 1945 (about $188 in today's dollar.)

A simple rayon crepe top is worn with a beige rayon shantung skirt that ties at the front.  Both pieces are by B.H. Wragge.  Set sold for $23 in 1945 (about $289 in today's dollar.)  The model wears a Lilly Dache snood in her hair.

The same B.H. Wragge top is paired with a long sarong skirt in black and white cotton batik by Mady Martell.  A sparkling brooch is pinned at the top of the sarong wrap.  Skirt sold for $95 in 1945 (about $1,193 in today's dollar.)

A black surplice jersey knit top worn with a rayon taffeta evening skirt in red, white and green plaid.  A gold metallic belt finishes the look.  Sold for $35 in 1945 (about $439 in today's dollar.)

A Minx Modes sundress looks like separates.  The top has wide shoulder straps and swirling embroidery.  The skirt is striped in yellow, black and gray.  Sold for $18 in 1945 (about $226 in today's dollar.)

Tina Leser Beach Ensemble, 1945

Tina Leser was well known for her use of exotic fabrics and style influences from around the world. During the WWII years, however, her travels were limited and so were her fabric choices. Leser was still able to find inspiration, though, and here she uses simple white jersey for an exotic beach look. The two piece swimsuit has a twisted bandeaux top and came with a long wrap-around skirt. The set sold for $42 in 1945 (about $509 in today's dollar.)

Parisian Fur Coats - 1945

It's the fall of 1945. Paris had just been liberated the previous August and the city is still struggling to rebuild itself. The couturiers won't emerge with proper fashion shows until the fall of 1947. But many designers did begin to reestablish their businesses. Here, fur coats for the winter of 1945. Hemlines are still on the short side, but shoulders are already huge.

Left: Gray broadtail coat with black fox sleeves by Molyneux.
Right: Black astrakan coat by Revillon.

Otter fur double breasted coat by Jungmann et Cie.

Paquin aubergine wool coat with blue fox fur collar and pockets.

Astrakan coat by Reine d'Angleterre. Check out those platform booties.
The soles are probably wood.

Left: Coat in astrakan fur with beige wool bodice by Gaston.
Right: White broadtail fur jacket with black suede waistband by Gaston.

Waiting for Santa

When you're settled in tonight waiting for Santa, why not do it in style? Nothing feels more glamorous than a vintage lounge robe from the 1940s. If you've got one hiding in your closet, tonight is the perfect opportunity to pull it out and let yourself be the star that rivals the one atop the Christmas tree.

Jean Patou wool robe with voluminous sleeves, 1945.

Jean Patou satin robe, 1945.

Molyneux wool robe, 1945.

Pink velvet robe completely lined in chinchilla fur by Carven, 1946.

Lucien Lelong satin robe with fur collar and pockets, 1945.

Evening Dresses - 1945

Are you throwing a holiday party this year? Why not make it a vintage themed affair? Or, better yet, how about black tie? The world needs some beauty, and we can all pitch in by wearing a glamorous gown for the holidays. Today, looks from 1945.

After years of shortages and austerity, the world emerges from WWII and designers celebrate with the use of yards and yards of fabric. Draping, poufs, and gathers abound. Shoulders are becoming important with dramatic sleeves and thick shoulder pads. We often see long sleeves for evening. Rayon joins silk as an important fabric for both day and evening.

Maggy Rouff printed silk gown with back bustle treatment and train.

Left, Jean Patou velvet and crepe gown with appliques in the opposite fabrics.
Right, Worth taffeta gown with huge puffed sleeves.

Another look by Worth. This time the huge sleeves and bodice are covered in tulle ruffles.

Jeanne Lanvin crepe gown with gold embroidery and full sleeves.

Mme. Grès silk chiffon gown with her signature draping.

Is the 1940s your decade of choice?

Tina Leser Sundress - 1945

Tina Leser was well known for her use of exotic fabrics and style influences from around the world. During the WWII years, however, her travels were limited and so were her fabric choices. Leser was still able to find inspiration at home, though, and this dress is one example. Here, she uses a traditional American fabric - chambray stripe and fashions it into a sweet sundress with a sarong influenced one shoulder design.

Chambray is a lightweight cotton fabric with a denim look, which combines a colored yarn with an undyed yarn in a plain weave. Chambray was originally used for workingmen's blue shirts, from which comes the term blue-collar worker.

The add states this is "Aphrodite - Tina Leser's Grecian Goddess sun dress in No-Fade Chambray, striped and plain. White stripes on blue, chartreuse or rose." This dress also gives us an example of working within the fabric restrictions of the war years. The skirt is shorter, and by making the bodice with just one strap, Leser is able to use the extra fabric for a ruffle on the skirt front. Ingenious! Sold for $19.95 exclusively at Bonwit Teller in 1945 (about $238.00 in today's dollar). That $19.95 would have been out of reach to most women during the war, but I'll bet many women took inspiration from Leser's use of chambray and made their own versions with inexpensive yard goods.

By the way, notice the long beaded necklace wrapped around and around the wrist to made a statement bracelet. Just another example of war-time ingenuity!

Paris Hats - 1945

October 1945. Paris was liberated the previous August and the final German surrender in Europe took place in late April. 6 months later, a French fashion magazine asks, "Sommes-Nous Prêts?". "Are You Ready?" for the return of la Haute Couture Parisienne?

In the fall of 1945, fashion was just beginning to emerge from the strictures of the war. The best Parisian milliners produced some magical hats to celebrate the rebirth of beauty and couture. Descriptions have been translated from the French.
Left: Jane Blanchot green velvet hood with otter fur back and pom-poms.
Right: J.-Suzanne Talbot braided felt and velvet tall hat with jewels at the front crown.

Left: Eneley Soeurs brown velvet with beige feathers.
Right: Germaine Bouché velvet with ferns and birds.

Left: Gilbert Orcel velvet with tartan fabric and feathers.
Right: Agnès brown felt decorated with imagination.

Left: Blanche et Simone black felt and velvet.
Right: Le Monnier high shape decorated with chiffon.

Left: Simone Cange black velvet with knit tulle.
Right: Sygur velvet toque with tropical birds.

Left: Claude St-Cyr tobacco brown felt with cock feathers.
Right: Nelly Levasseur velvet with ostrich plumes.

Left: Janette Colombier black velvet with heavenly feather plumes.
Right: Rose Valois brown felt with feathers.

Weekend Eye Candy - Claire McCardell Swimsuit 1945

Claire McCardell was a master at designing innovative and unusual swimwear. Here, she fashions grey wool jersey into a wrap halter attached to trunks. The back is bare above the waist.

1945 Bare Midriffs

It's 1945, the war is coming to an end, and your mama (or grandmama) is sporting a bare midriff. The bare midriff became popular for several reasons.

- It was all the rage in Hollywood, with film stars showing a peek of skin in evening gowns and resort wear.

- The two piece swimsuit had become acceptable by now.

- Wartime L-85 restrictions meant you were showing your patriotism by wearing less fabric!

Rayon bra top and skirt-like shorts for beach or play can be topped with the sharkskin beachcoat. All pieces by Junior Miss of California and sold by Jordan Marsh.

A straight skirt with deep trouser pleats with a cutaway halter bodice that is attached at the back by Huxley. Fashioned from cocoa brown rayon with the look and feel of linen.

Louella Ballerino two piece swimsuit in a California Authentics fabric.

At the top: Short peasant tops with puffed sleeves are matched to full skirts. Both sets designed by Carolyn Schnurer. At center: A tie-front top with matching skirt by Huxley.

Claire McCardell works a long sleeved top with matching wrap skirt in black wool jersey. The skirt has big pockets and white top-stitching accents both pieces.

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