Chloe Dress, 1975

This image caused quite a stir when I posted it on my Facebook page last night.  Helmut Newton shot this photo in 1975.  The jersey dress is by Karl Lagerfeld for Chloe.  The shoes are by Charles Jourdan.  The model is not stick thin.  In fact, her curves only enhance the drape of the garment.  Stunning.

Dorothee Bis - 1975

It's October, and suddenly it's sweater weather here in Boston.  That makes everything about this ensemble by Dorothee Bis from 1975 look yummy, cozy and just right for right now.  It makes me warm just to look at it. 

Weekend Eye Candy - Pierre Cardin Diffusion, 1975

Two evening gowns from Pierre Cardin's Diffusion line for spring 1975.  Both gowns are made of brightly colored silks and, while vastly different, I love them both.  How about you?

Evening Dresses - 1975

Today is the final post in my series about evening looks through the decades. I hope you've enjoyed it!

What a difference another 10 years makes. The introduction of knits, whether silk, rayon, polyester, or nylon has a huge impact on fashion. Styles are now easy while body conscious at the same time. Full length gowns and maxi dresses dominate evening wear, although we do see tuxedos for women and jumpsuits. Disco looks are exploding onto the scene at this time. Enjoy these looks from 1975.

Leonard silk jersey print dress.

Yves St. Laurent silk jersey gown with halter neckline.

Loris Azzaro white satin tuxedo modeled by Marissa Berenson.

Halston navy jersey jumpsuit with cutaway sides and halter neckline.

Zhandra Rhodes hand-painted blouse and long skirt.

Are the 1970s your decade of choice?

Kasper for Joan Leslie - 1975

"I'm constantly refining, improving, interpreting…trying to capture the essence of the times without being trendy. But from whatever source my ideas come from, I always keep in mind that lively, energetic, smart looking woman who is my customer. She's my motivation and my ultimate inspiration." -Herbert Kasper

Herbert Kasper attended Parsons School of Design and then moved to Paris where he worked for the couture houses of Jacques Fath, Christian Dior, and Marcel Rochas. He returned to New York in the early 50s and designed for Arnold Fox. He was awarded a Coty in 1955. In 1965 Kasper joined the firm of Leslie Fay and became the designer for their Joan Leslie division.

In 1975, Saks Fifth Avenue joined with Kasper, Trevira, and the new Loews Hotel Monte-Carlo in a several page advertisement. Princess Grace of Monaco attended the dedication of the Loews Hotel in November of 1975. The hotel is still in operation today as the Fairmont Monte-Carlo.

It is interesting to note that while these dresses are all made of Trevira polyester jersey fabric, they were quite expensive. While we consider polyester an inferior fabric today, it was very popular in the 1970s. All dresses shown in these ads are by Kasper for Joan Leslie and all are of Trevira Star© polyester jersey. Saks Fifth Avenue had Kasper Boutiques in their stores where these dresses were sold.

Above, stripe and polka dot print makes an evening gown with cut-away shoulders and matching scarf. Sold in 1975 for $160 (about $650 in today's dollar.)

Red print wrap dress with matching scarf. Sold in 1975 for $140 (about $568 in today's dollar.)

Solid black dress with matching shawl. Sold in 1975 for $144 (about $585 in today's dollar.)

Lavender cocktail dress that wraps and ties in back. Sold in 1975 for $92 (about $374 in today's dollar.)

A short dress with full sleeves and matching scarf in the same fabric as the dress at top. Sold in 1975 for $122 (about $495 in today's dollar.)

Vintage Sweaters - 1975

Just a few more days to enter the giveaway from Vermont Country Store! Go and enter to win now!

20 years after yesterday's post, the look of sweaters is decidedly different. In 1975, sweaters were longer and were made of heavier, thicker, chunkier yarns than those of 1955. Worn with bell bottom pants, jeans, or long skirts, here are the sweaters the everyday gal wore in 1975.

Allison's Closet bulky cable knit cardigan.

Beverly Johnson wears a wool wrap sweater by Jane Justin.

Organically Grown by Arpeja acrylic (ironic) turtleneck sweater with center muff pockets.

Ellen Tracy wool cardigan with matching vest and hat.

Hooded wool tweed sweater jacket by Swing Low.

Vintage Swimsuits - 1975

In 1975, the news in swimsuits is new lighter-weight Lycra fabrics that were used to great advantage in sleek maillots and daringly bare bikinis. Even the bathing cap is new in thin rubber that shapes to the head. The first 4 photos were taken at the East 23rd Street swimming pool in New York City, which is still in operation today.

At left: Jean-Louis Scherrer white lycra maillot. Sold for $165 in 1975 (about $674 in today's dollar).
At right: Stephen Burrows white nylon/lycra suit with sheer sides and back. Sold for $38 in 1975 (about $155 in today's dollar).

At top: Sirena black lycra bikini with a halter top. Sold for $18 in 1975 (about $74 in today's dollar).
At bottom: Missoni purple and white stripe cotton knit bikini and cover-up skirt. Set sold for $250 in 1975 (about $1021 in today's dollar).

At left: Catalina blue and black stripe maillot in nylon/lycra blend. Sold for $26 in 1975 (about $106 in today's dollar).
At right: Catalina uses the same stripe fabric combined with solid black in a bikini. Sold for $18 in 1975 (about $74 in today's dollar).

At left: White stretch terry t-shirt and shorts cover-up by Lois Anderson for Tannerway. Set sold for $38 in 1975 (about $155 in today's dollar).
At right: Christian Dior for Saks Fifth Avenue red strapless nylon/lycra bikini. Sold for $35 in 1975 (about $143 in today's dollar).

What do you wear with your swimsuit? How about this embroidered raffia bag with matching wedge sandals by Charles Jourdan, also from 1975.

First 4 photos by Deborah Turbeville, last photo by Rudolph Haussaine.

Summer Dresses - 1975

In the last 5 years, fashion has seen minis, midis, and maxis, but now the hemline has settled about 2-3" below the knee. Dresses are losing their popularity as women embrace wearing pants and more casual clothes. Separates are wildly popular. Dresses have lost all hint of tailoring as knits rule the day. Here the final in our 2-week series, dresses for the heat of summer, 1975.

Calvin Klein red cotton jersey knit wrap dress with a halter neckline.
Sold for $72 in 1975 (about $292 in today's dollar).

Kappi floral cotton knit t-shirt dress. Sold for $68 in 1975 (about $276 in today's dollar).

The popular chemise is based upon middle eastern ethnic dress. Beene Bag striped cotton chemise slips on over the heat and is worn loose or belted. Sold for $70 in 1975 (about $284 in today's dollar).

Clovis Ruffin for Ruffin Wear nylon knit t-shirt dress.
Sold for $42 in 1975 (about $170 in today's dollar).

Maxi dresses are still very popular in 1975. This one is by Lilly Pulitzer.

The Proliferation of Unrealistic Digitally Enhanced Images in Advertising

Back in December, Procter and Gamble was slapped by the British Advertising Standards Authority for misleading the public when they "digitally re-touched" a photograph of Twiggy used in an ad for an Olay product.

A bit much, isn't it? I am of the opinion that the use of Photoshop and other programs to "digitally enhance" or airbrush advertising images to give the impression of perfection is way out of hand and far too prevalent.

Linda Evangelista in a L'Oreal ad and in a live appearance.

Andie MacDowell in a L'Oreal ad and on the Red Carpet.

When did it become unacceptable to show that women have lived rich and fulfilling lives - lives that naturally give us smile lines, larger pores, saggy eyelids, and crow's feet? When will advertisers stop making us feel bad about ourselves by presenting us with impossible to obtain results? I, for one, would prefer to buy products from a company that has the guts to show me natural results without digitally enhancing it's advertising images. And I'm sure I'm not alone.

Take a look at these images of Cheryl Tiegs from 1975. These photos appeared in an issue of Harper's Bazaar magazine as part of a spread about new make-up products. (Pardon the ripples in the paper. The magazine got wet sometime over the years.)

Click to enlarge this photo, and you'll clearly see Chery's pores and tiny lines under her eyes - "faults" which would have been Photoshopped away in a 2010 image.

Click to enlarge and look at those wonderful lines around Chery's eyes - lines that show true joy and laughter.

Click to enlarge and you'll see that, even on the cover, you can see faint lines to the sides of Cheryl's mouth and under her eyes.

Chery's age in these photos? 28. A true and natural 28, not a digitally-enhanced one.

1975 Teeny Bikinis All Covered Up

1975 - It's the height of popularity for the maxi dress. Long cover-ups for the beach, usually in matching fabric, are all the rage to pop over your tiny bikini.

I didn't know Estevez did swimwear, but this Resort Sport bikini and "moon robe" were his design. The cover-up can be worn knotted as a sarong dress, as shown, or tied as a halter. The print is of big pink roses on a green background in nylon/lycra. Sold for $72.00 (about $292.00 in today's dollar).

Leonard fashions a nylon kimono robe to wear over his matching nylon/lycra bikini. The set sold for $410.00 (about $1664.00 in today's dollar). That's a lot of money for nylon!

Sirena fashions a pin-stripe bikini with matching long t-shirt of polyester/rayon/silk knit. The set sold for $45.00 (about $183.00 in today's dollar).

Gottex of Israel offered these separates in a yellow and green floral print on brown nylon/lycra. The long wrap skirt could be worn over the deep plunge maillot or the bikini. The bikini/skirt set sold for $84.00 (about $341.00 in today's dollar). The maillot sold for $42.00 (about $170.00 in today's dollar).

Roxanne fashions a nylon/lycra bikini with matching beach pajamas in sheer nylon jersey. The set sold for $74.00 (about $300.00 in today's dollar).

Weekend Eye Candy - 1975 Leonard Signature Print

Another Leonard, Paris signature print set with elephant bell pants, a bikini top and a head scarf. This ad for Bergdorf Goodman is from 1975.

1970s Elephant Bell Pants

File this under "Did We Really Wear Those?". Yes, yes we did. Super wide pants that we called elephant bell bottoms. I wore mine with 3" high platform shoes with cork wedges. I had to be careful not to trip over the hem of those pants, though. They were dangerous!

Shown above, the grown-up version from 1975: Midriff top and white pants, both in silk jersey by Leonard.

Soft 70's Hand-Painted Prints

As fashion trended away from the structured lines of 1960's Mod, we find a move toward softer, more feminine lines with lots of loose, flowing fabrics, ruffles, and draping. Many women were either going bra-less or wearing a soft knit "barely there" bra with these fashions. Shown here - gorgeous hand-painted prints from 1975. As always, click the photos for a larger view.

Halston's 3 piece evening pyjama in silk chiffon. The tunic, pants, and cape are hand-painted with yellow flowers. Sold for $950.00 (about $3,856.00 in today's dollar)

Bill Blass uses a hand-painted design on a silk crepe tunic and matches it with silk crepe de Chine pyjama pants. Sold for $620.00 (about $2,517.00 in today's dollar).

Zandra Rhodes was famous for her use of her own hand-painted prints. Here a peach design on cream silk chiffon floats over a layer of cream jersey. The one-shoulder dress has a handkerchief hem. Sold for $895.00 (about $3,630.00 in today's dollar).

Holly's Harp creates a tiered silk chiffon evening coat to wear over a pistachio matte jersey camisole and long skirt. Sold for $645.00 (about $2,620.00 in today's dollar).

Oscar de la Renta offered this one-shoulder dress in bias cut silk chiffon with a hand-painted draped shawl wrap that tied at the shoulder. Sold for $615.00 (about $2,500.00 in today's dollar).

One other note - you can see clearly in these photos a make-up trend from the mid 70's. Dark bronzer or blush was used to sculpt a dramatic cheekbone. Blush was applied from the hairline down under the cheekbone and right to the apple of the cheek.

From the same time period, Couture Allure offers this gorgeous hand-painted silk evening dress by American designer Pauline Trigere.

Vogue Magazine Under Grace Mirabelli

I own several issues of Vogue magazine from the 1970's, but when I look through them, I find them to be disjointed and uninteresting. Grace Mirabelli became Editor in Chief when Diana Vreeland left the magazine in 1971. Under Mirabelli's watch, the magazine changed from a bi-weekly to a monthly publication. It also underwent extensive editorial and stylistic changes to respond to the lifestyle changes of its target audience.

Women's liberation and the sexual revolution of the late 1960's and early 70s changed the way women lived their lives. Mirabelli believed that elaborate couture clothing was out of style, and she favored using ready-to-wear and off-the-rack clothing in the magazine. She felt that Vogue magazine under Vreeland was out of touch with its readers, their lifestyles, and their pocketbooks. She remade the magazine to appeal to the practical side of the 1970's woman.

But, it is also true that Vogue under Mirabelli became boring and staid. Many couture houses and high end department stores no longer advertised with Vogue, since their clothing was not featured in the magazine's editorials. Mirabelli was dismissed from Vogue in 1988, when 3 year-old magazine Elle started making headway against Vogue's market domination.

In an attempt to garner waning reader interest, Mirabelli often used fashion photographer Helmut Newton, known for the erotic and sometimes violent overtones of his images. While I do conceed that Helmut Newton is an artist of extraordinary talent, I don't enjoy fashion protrayed in this manner. Show me the clothes, not the sex and violence. Following are a few examples from Vogue, May 1975. How do you feel about these images?

"Halston's long, thin, perfect summer evening in red and white cotton knit stripes. (If you have to ask what to wear in the way of a bra, this may not be the dress for you.)"


"...and just as she has the imatination to knot a streak of fishnet around her bare throat, she sometimes has the wit to wear the new Silver Sage perfume on her earlobes..."

" The ultra-pretty lacy and embroidered white bra with a plunging neckline, plunging sides, thin, thin straps...and the kind of easy front-closing anyone can manage." Bra by Flair of nylon tricot, about $5.

"The string-tied bikini in sienna brown jersey with a matching wrap skirt by Eres."