Nina Ricci Dress and Cape - 1970

The year is 1970 (can you tell?)  This dress and matching cape were designed by Nina Ricci for Vogue Patterns.  This was back in the day when you could find fabulously wonderful fabrics to sew at home with.  Staron made this gorgeous print in both wool (cape) and panne velvet (dress.)  It may be a bit over-the-top for some of you, but I love it!  And if you want to make it yourself, you'll have to keep your eyes out for Vogue Paris Original pattern 2406 from 1970.  There are no copies of it available online right now, but you never know when one will show up!

Autumn Inspirations, 1979

Christian Dior Boutique, Fall 1979

 It's 56 degrees this morning, the first time the temperature has dropped below 60 in many weeks.  It's August.  Are you thinking about your fall wardrobe yet?  Are you dreaming of wearing darker colors?  Layers?  Boots?  I've started listing vintage garments for fall at Couture Allure.  Today's autumn inspiration looks are from 1979.  What are you looking for for fall?

Yves St. Laurent, Fall 1979

Nina Ricci, Fall 1979

Mad For Plaid, 1948

This coat by Nina Ricci from 1948 does a great job of expressing the joy of life returning to some sense of normalcy in Paris after the privations, horror and destruction of WWII.  It even makes the model happy.  Note how perfectly the plaid is matched, even at the sleeve cuffs!

Nina Ricci Dinner Dress - 1953

This is one of those garments that doesn't need much elucidation on my part.  I adore everything about this Nina Ricci dress from 1953, especially the roses that decorate the shoulder inside the asymmetric neckline.  It just brings me joy.

Another Side of Nina Ricci

Lest you think after yesterday's post that Nina Ricci only excelled at suits, here is a Ricci draped silk jersey wedding gown from 1957.

Vintage Nina Ricci Ensembles

It takes a certain kind of woman to wear vintage Nina Ricci.  My favorite pieces are always those designed by Jules Francois Crahay during his years as the head designer from 1954 - 1963.  His designs feature fabulous tailoring with the addition of wonderful, whimsical details.  Here are some examples of his work.

1959

1960

1961

1962

1963

I had planned this post in order to feature this Crahay-designed dress and jacket ensemble from Nina Ricci Paris that I listed on my website yesterday.  Not surprisingly, the ensemble sold almost immediately, but you can still enjoy the photos and details of the design by checking out the listing at Couture Allure. 

Weekend Eye Candy - Nina Ricci, 1936

What better way to greet the New Year than in a dress from the 1930s?  Nina Ricci designed this metallic brocade gown in 1936.  It is deep Persian blue with a multi-colored metallic design in the weave of the cloque fabric.  Whatever you decide to wear tonight, have fun, stay safe, and party like it's 2012!

Inspiration from Nina Ricci - 1960

Today's inspiration comes from Nina Ricci.  Jules Francois Crahay was the designer for Ricci in 1960 and his genius is evident in this cocktail length dress paired with a full length opera coat, both in an opulent Middle Eastern inspired silk.  The coat is accented with black fox fur collar and cuffs.  Silver shoes echo the silver threads in the fabric.  Black kidskin gloves finish the look.

How does this inspire you?

Weekend Eye Candy - Nina Ricci, 1970

Nina Ricci uses layer upon layer of printed silk chiffon for this dramatic look from Spring, 1970.

Weekend Eye Candy - Nina Ricci, 1970

Photographed in Bangkok, this ensemble by Nina Ricci Boutique is just as dramatic as its surroundings. Cream wool crepe is used for a voluminous cape and wide legged pants. Both are worn with a purple silk blouse. From Spring, 1970.

Clara's Custom Made Clothes

I've said it before and I'll say it again. Sometimes the serendipity of what I do is amazing. This morning I was flipping through a 1939 issue of Town and Country magazine and I found this half page ad for Clara's Custom Made Clothes at Eighteen East 53rd Street in New York. The address is right off of Madison Avenue and you know this was an expensive store for society's elite. Especially if the store could afford a half page ad in the front third of the pages of Town and Country.

But what's the big deal? What's so serendipitous?

Just last week, I listed a Nina Ricci dress dated 1971 that was sold by Clara's at 18 E. 53rd St. Yep, same store, same high quality garments, same elite customers. And that, my friends, is serendipity. I love what I do.

1971 Nina Ricci silk dress available at Couture Allure.

Mad For Plaid - 1972

It's 1972 and the whole world is mad for plaid. Plaid coats, plaid suits, plaid skirts, plaid pants. Plaid, plaid, plaid!

Get Gaston Jaunet wool plaid coat with cape style sleeves.

At left: Webe plaid overcoat with detachable capelet.
At right: Redine Loubens herringbone wool cape and knickers.

Dormeuil tartan plaid pant suit with bell bottoms.

At left: Boutique Nina Ricci plaid wool jacket worn over black pleated dress.
At right: Jean Patou Boutique bias cut wool coat with kimono sleeves.

Pierre Balmain Boutique fuzzy wool coat with capelet.

Weekend Eye Candy - Nina Ricci 1957

Floral print + evening gown = Love at first sight. Nina Ricci silk evening gown, 1957.

Weekend Eye Candy - Nina Ricci and Etro 1980

Did you know that Etro started as a fabric and textile manufacturer in 1968, a full 20 years before it's first clothing lines? Here Nina Ricci uses Etro fabric for a silk kimono jacket and pants set in 1980. Stunning and timeless, this set would still be completely wearable today.

Paris Couture Suits - 1961

On the Paris Couture runways for Spring 1961, designers showed suits in pastel colors as well as pale neutrals. Pink was the standout color in all shades, from blush to deep rose. Jackets were generally shorter and boxier with a softened shoulder line and sleeves ranged from elbow to bracelet length. Big buttons were a prominent feature. Skirt length was at the knee or slightly below. Here are some of the best.

Before Pierre Cardin's Mod looks became wildly popular, he designed classic suits and dresses. Here, his mauve pink wool suit has a loose-fitting jacket with a scallop at the hem. It closes with a large mauve flower at the neckline. The jacket is lined in printed silk chiffon.

Lanvin Castillo's rose pink wool suit features a curvy short jacket with elbow length sleeves and a stand-away collar.

Nina Ricci departed from the rest of the couture pack by showing a longer hip-length jacket, here layered over a matching sheath dress. The jacket, in gray worsted wool that reverses to beige, is closed with a loop at the side waist.

Jacques Heim curves the short jacket of this suit up in the front to expose a bit of the printed silk organza blouse. The suit is of a pink silk/linen blend.

In his first collection for Dior, Marc Bohan showed this suit in pale gray tweed. The jacket has a cut-away front and sloped shoulders. A shorter sleeveless shell in the same tweed is under the jacket.

Weekend Eye Candy - Nina Ricci 1967

Exquisite tailoring. That's what you want in a suit. This one by Paris couturier Nina Ricci is from 1967.

Vintage Evening Gowns - Ricci, Dior, Scassi, and Teal Traina

September 1961 - Nina Ricci gown in emerald green satin worn with a matching green satin coat edged in blue fox fur. Glittering earrings and a coiffure that makes a statement are all she needs.

December 1957 - Scassi ball gown in pale green silk moire has an asymmetric hem that dips to floor length in the back. Worn with a matching coat that is lined in white fox fur. Accessorized with satin shoes, white gloves, and sparkling earrings.

October 1960 - Dior strapless platinum grey silk satin gown with a large rose at the dropped waist and tulip shaped skirt. The model carries a flocked tulle wrap and wears black satin shoes and a bow at the back of her head.

December 1966 - Teal Traina charcoal silk chiffon column dress decorated with rows of silver paillettes. The matching stole worn as a head wrap. Coordinating clogs were made by Herbert Levine. The model wears a huge Charles Elkaim cocktail ring.

Two 1961 Nina Ricci Coats

We continue to look at copies of 1961 Paris originals today, with two coats from Paris couturier Nina Ricci. Ricci always worked directly on the body by draping the fabric for a fluid and flattering garment. She was reknowned for her clever use of gathering, tucks, and drapery for dramatic effect.

Nina Ricci retired in the early 50's, and her son Richard took over the business. He hired Belgian designer Jules-François Crahay in 1954, who was very successful in paying homage to Nina's trademark feminine look. The two coats shown here are his designs.


These images, from the September 15, 1961 issue of Vogue, are of the Paris originals, which were copied in America. They are similar to the Dior coats we looked at yesterday in silhouette, yet very different in structure, with the fullness achieved through the use of soft pleats and godets.

The first coat was shown by Ricci in green tweed and was copied in the US by Dan Millstein for Saks Fifth Avenue, Woodward & Lothrop, and Daytons. The second coat was shown by Ricci in yellow wool boucle and copied in the US by Zelinka-Mattlick in Forstmann wool for Lord & Taylor and I. Magnin.