Wednesday, September 17, 2008
We continue to look at copies of 1961 Paris originals today, with two coats from Paris couturier Nina Ricci. Ricci always worked directly on the body by draping the fabric for a fluid and flattering garment. She was reknowned for her clever use of gathering, tucks, and drapery for dramatic effect.
Nina Ricci retired in the early 50's, and her son Richard took over the business. He hired Belgian designer Jules-François Crahay in 1954, who was very successful in paying homage to Nina's trademark feminine look. The two coats shown here are his designs.
These images, from the September 15, 1961 issue of Vogue, are of the Paris originals, which were copied in America. They are similar to the Dior coats we looked at yesterday in silhouette, yet very different in structure, with the fullness achieved through the use of soft pleats and godets.
The first coat was shown by Ricci in green tweed and was copied in the US by Dan Millstein for Saks Fifth Avenue, Woodward & Lothrop, and Daytons. The second coat was shown by Ricci in yellow wool boucle and copied in the US by Zelinka-Mattlick in Forstmann wool for Lord & Taylor and I. Magnin.