Exhibits of Interest - Outerwear and Embroidery

The Morris Museum in Morristown, NJ presents the exhibit, "Stepping Out in Style: Outerwear from the Past 150 Years". Showing now through March 2009, the exhibit features an assortment of antique and vintage capes, coats, jackets and furs. The highlight of the exhibit is this 1890's evening coat in apricot silk velvet by Charles Frederick Worth.

The Rubin Museum of Art in New York City presents an exhibition of 60 embroidered textiles of South Asia in "Color and Light". Included are ceremonial scarves, clothing embellished with mirrors and metallic thread, and vibrant patterned domestic fabrics dating from the 1700's to today.

Vintage Roadshow - Links of the Week

Glamoursplash takes a look at THE GOLDEN AGE OF COUTURE: PARIS & LONDON 1947-57.

The Vintage Traveler shares a special gift from her Grandmother Lizzie.

Couture Allure looks at The Constantiner collection of fashion photographs coming up for auction at Christie's New York..

Debutante Clothing regrets not bidding on a vintage Dior travel bag.

iKonic drools over designer Holiday Dream Outfits of the 1950's.

Weekend Eye Candy - Claire McCardell Swimsuit

Vogue 1953: A Claire McCardell swimsuit in wool jersey. The bodice is styled like a McCardell dress with deep cut sleeves, gilt hooks and eyes, and cord belt.

This swimsuit showed up on EBay this week, and sold for a nice price. The seller didn't know what she had, but the bidders sure did!

Links à la Mode: December 13

Please enjoy these links from my colleagues at IFB:

Fashion-Obsessed

• A Few Goody GumDrops - A Few Goody Gumdrops is cuffing her wrists with the Red Crocodile Bracelets from Nancy Gonzalez!
  
• Caged Lilies - Feeling russian. Chanel pre fall 09 review
  
• Capitola Girl Jewelry Blog - I’m having a girl moment…
  
• Couture Allure Vintage - Couture Allure takes a look at fashion photography of Hiro from 1966.
  
• Debutante Clothing - Vintage Dress Silhouettes Over the Decades
  
• Fashion Birdcage - MATERIALBYPRODUCT Template Spring Summer 09 Collection
  
• fashion in my eyes - Coco in motion
  
• Fashion Pulse Daily - Fashion Pulse’s runway look of the day is none other than Rodarte’s Grecian goddess gowns - check out what we think about it!
  
• Fasshonaburu - Why should the mortgage companies and auto industry get all the breaks? A fashion industry bailout proposal.
  
• Flights of Fab Fashion Fancy - At Flights of Fab Fashion Fancy diamonds are a girl’s best friend!
  
• Iole in fashion - Sunglasses
  
• O.M.O. Writes - FASHION ICON: International Stylist, Catherine Baba. Hailed the “most stylish woman in Paris,” she epitomizes glamour and gaudiness!
  
• Shopping and Info - The scoop on Nicole Richie and Kim Kardashian wearing Rozae Nichols
  
• Style Discovery - Introducing young designers from the West Australian Institute of Fashion and Textile. Style Discovery’s show coverage, interviews and more.
  
• SwanDiamondRose - Mandy aka Yarnageddon is co-author of the upcoming Yarnbombing book.
  
• The Subadult Years - My fabulous sample sale example with Canadian designer Lucian Matis
  
• Tierra M Wilson - Fashion Gives Back In Arizona
  

It’s a little personal

• Being High Maintenance, not Bitchy - How to wear vests part 1: how the ladies rock it
  
• Dirty Laundry - Red: The first of a week long monochromatic experiment.
  
• dramatis personae - Bringing Back Burlesque… ways for the average girl to incorporate the glamour and glitz of Burlesque in to her wardrobe.
  
• Daisy Fairbanks Vintage - Pinkaholism. Love pink? Hate it? Find out more.
  
• la boudoir - Perfect Party Picks - Dresses to wear to that upcoming holiday party
  
• Little Black Book - The guide to online clothes shopping and where to look.
  
• In Life and In Fashion - Hibernation Helper: How to stay stylishly warm when it is c-c-c-cold outside! Brrrr!
  
• Or False Glitter - -Style crisis! Do we choose our style or does it choose us?
  
• shopfair - A guide to successful color matching. Find the right colors for your skintone and create colorful outfits.
  
• Style Symmetry - I Love London! Do you?
  
• THE COVETED - DIY : Turn old sweaters into lovely opera gloves.
  

‘Tis the Season

• AlysiaMarie.com - Trend Guide this Season =)
  
• Diary of a Style Addict - Is telling you how to get 10 smackeroos for your desigenr shopping this holiday season
  
• Mademoiselle Robot - Stylish gift ideas for your favourite sister (see also mum, grandma etc)
  
• Retro Chick - Last Minute Gifts for disorganised Retro Chicks
  
• The Sassy Peach - The Sassy Peach Holiday Gift Guide! 20 gifts under !
  

You are Beautiful

• ShopDiary - finds some fantastic deals on cosmetics and fragrances at Costco, of all places!
  
• Summershoes - Tips and Tricks and Beauty Secrets: Easy to make Papaya Mask
  
• Your Style Star - Hot Lip Tips
  

Chic Geek

• Independent Fashion Bloggers - IFB Traffic School: SEO a Go-Go
  
• Petite Bourgeoisie - Fashion Blog Design - The Options
  
• Technology Starlet - The HP Mini 1000 Vivienne Tam Digital Clutch Is Finally Her
  
• Dogmom’s Dish - Inside Tokidoki’s Inspiration

Dress Up Your Shoes with Vintage Shoe Clips

Going directly from the office to an important party or date but don't want to be bogged down with carrying a change of shoes? Here's a solution. In the 1950's and early 60's, women would have a wardrobe of shoe clips to change the look of a basic pair of pumps. These fancy clips attached to the front of the vamp with a small metal clip. It's jewelry for your feet, and a great way to add a bit of sparkle to your evening without spending a lot of money.

Here are some vintage shoe clips available from sellers I know and trust:

Aurora Borealis rhinestones dazzle on a goldtone setting. Available at Couture Allure for $25.

Emerald green and clear rhinestone clips available at Viva Vintage for $30.

A set of three pairs of co-ordinating shoe clips are available at Dress for $40.

A pair of rhinestone clips that stand up and away from your foot. Available at Frock of Ages for $45.

Vintage Evening Coats

Whatever happened to evening coats? You know - a long full length coat that you wear over an evening gown? Granted, I very rarely have occasion to wear an evening gown, but when I do I don't have a formal coat to go over it. If the weather is cold or nasty, I've worn one of my daytime coats over the gown and ditched it in the car. Or I've just suffered with a flimsy shawl or no wrap at all until I am able to warm up indoors.

Has the demise of the evening coat been a consequence of our fascination with The Red Carpet? After all, if a celebrity is wearing a designer gown that she has borrowed for the evening, that designer is not going to want the gown covered up by a coat for the camera! I can understand that. But what about the rest of us? Doesn't it make sense to complete a formal look by wearing a formal coat? Imagine the drama of it. You get to make an entrance in a formal coat. Then you get to make a second entrance when you remove the coat to reveal your evening gown. Fun, no?

Above: "A magnificent silk faille evening coat in Diablo red over a jewel encrusted sheath in imported silk". Both by Ben Reig for Julius Garfinkle, 1963.

"Only silk is silk. Would you make your entrance in anything less? Silk satin opera cloak. Silk matelasse gown." Both at Bergdorf Goodman, 1963.

"Burning brightly into the gala nights ahead, this ember-red coat dips to the floor in anticipation of the new, long evening dressing." Of double faced silk satin, also in emerald green or black silk satin or silk brocade. $375 ($2650 today) at Bergdorf Goodman, 1963.

OK, I understand. No one has $2600 to throw around on an evening coat today. What's a gal to do? Buy vintage, of course! And a beautiful vintage opera coat is going to cost a lot less than $2650.

This 1960's opera coat by Henri Bendel in green silk satin with a turquoise silk lining is available at Couture Allure for $125.

Hiro Fashion Photographs 1966

I was all set to write a post about glitzy party looks from the 60's Mod era when I came across these photos in the December 1966 issue of Harper's Bazaar magazine. They look great in the magazine, but the artistic quality of the photos didn't strike me until I had scanned the images and was able to view them on my computer screen. Looking for a photography credit, I found the word "Hiro" in tiny letters.

Yasuhiro Wakabayashi, professionally known as Hiro, was born in Shanghai in 1930 to Japanese parents. He came to the US in 1954, and by the end of 1956 was an apprentice to fashion photographer Richard Avedon. He worked for Avedon for 1 year, then started his own career. He made significant contributions as a staff photographer for Harper's Bazaar from 1956 to 1975. His surreal and unique images are noted for the use of uncommon lighting, the juxtaposition of unexpected elements, and his signature use of color.

You can see those qualities in these images from the fashion spread "The Far Side of the Moon" in Bazaar, December 1966. Taken in the desert at sunset, these photos show Hiro's brilliant use of light. I can just imagine the frenzy behind the scenes as Hiro rushed to capture the different qualities of light as the sun set.

The photo above was taken when the sun had slipped behind the mountain in the background. The camera's flash catches the sparkle and shimmer of the outfit in a uniquely vivid manner. The dress by Bill Blass for Maurice Rentner is covered in silver paillette sequins. The silver streamers necklace is by Paco Rabanne and the rhinestone earrings are by Kenneth Lane.

This image was taken while the sun was just above the horizon. With a different use of lighting, the bottom portion of the dress disappears into darkness with just one glint to suggest that it is full length. The dress is by Pat Sandler. The silver sequinned snood is by Mr. John.

In a different use of the sunlight, Hiro captures a ray of light in front of the model with his camera. It appears as if the sun is still high in the sky and behind the model. The ray of light was probably caused by the use of a mirror. The silver knit sweater by Anne Rubin is covered with silver paillettes. The sculpted silver jersey helmet is by Mr. John.

Want to learn more about Hiro? A restropective of his career "Hiro: Photographs" was published in 1999. You can find it through my Amazon recommendations at the right.

EMBA, GLMA, and American Legend Furs

EMBA is the trademarked name of The Mutation Mink Breeders Association. In 1942, a group of mink fur farmers joined forces to form a marketing cooperative. These ranchers specialized in mink fur in clear bright colors to which they gave distinctive trade names. EMBA often bought full page ads in Vogue magazine in cooperation with various designers and manufacturers of mink coats and stoles.

Five of the rarer light colors were: 1. Arcturus - lavender beige, 2. Morning Light - blue beige, 3. Azurene - blue grey, 4. Aeolian - taupe, 5. Tourmaline - pale beige. These colors were all natural, not dyed, and, according to EMBA, each represented less than 1% of the world's mink. The pelts above are photographed with Harry Winston diamonds.

This ad, from 1957, features a Ritter Bros. coat in EMBA Jasmine, a natural white mutation mink color.

This ad, from 1963, shows a coat designed by Emeric Partos and custom made by Bergdorf Goodman in EMBA Morning Light mink.

This ad, from 1966, shows a coat by Maximilian in EMBA Tourmaline mink fur.

In 1941, a group of mink ranchers centered in the Great Lakes region formed The Great Lakes Mink Association, another marketing designation. The GLMA ranchers developed a unique strain of perfect black mink and marketed them under the trademark Blackglama. Their famous ads feature celebrities wearing Blackglama furs with the tag line, "What becomes a legend most?".

Racquel Welch in 1976.

Luciano Pavarotti in 1981.

Sophia Loren in 1982.

In 1985, EMBA merged with The Great Lakes Mink Association (GLMA) to form The American Legend Cooperative. American Legend is now the trademarked name given to the furs produced by this cooperative. Only the finest quality minks can receive the American Legend trademark status. The American Legend Cooperative uses super models and celebrities in their ads today.

Celine Dion in a modern Sorbara Furs ad.

The Constantiner Collection of Photographs at Christie's

As I mentioned yesterday, Christie's New York will be auctioning an important collection of original photographs on December 16 & 17. The 320 photographs were collected by Leon and Michaela Constantiner and includes works from Helmut Newton, Richard Avedon, Irving Penn, Horst P. Horst, Herb Ritts, Andy Warhol, Robert Mapplethorpe and Peter Lindbergh. There are many high fashion images in the collection. If you live in New York, go see the preview December 12-16.

Mainbocher Corset - This photograph by Horst P. Horst was taken in Paris on August 11, 1939. Horst said of this photo, "It was created by emotion.... It was the last photo I took in Paris before the war. I left the studio at 4.00 a.m., went back to the house, picked up my bags and caught the 7.00 a.m. train to Le Havre to board the Normandie.... The photograph is peculiar -- for me. While I was taking it, I was thinking of all that I was leaving behind." The photo is signed on the back and numbered 43/50. Pre-auction estimate is $40,000-60,000.

Black and White Vogue Cover - This photo was taken by Irving Penn in 1950. Jean Patchett models a dress by Larry Aldrich and hat by Lilly Daché. It is numbered 31/34 of a limited production printed in 1976 by Conde-Nast. Pre-auction estimate is $200,000 - 300,000.

Twelve of the Most Photographed Models of the Period - Irving Penn took this photo in 1947. It is incribed, "'Affectionate souvenir of our friends among these lovely ladies, and of pleasant evenings, for Dot Simpson, I.P., New York" Models left to right: Meg Mundy, Marilyn Ambrose, Helen Bennett, Dana Jenney, Betty McLauchlen (on ladder), Lisa Fonssagrives, Lily Carlson, Dorian Leigh (on floor), Andrea Johnson (seated), Elisabeth Gibbons, Muriel Maxwell (in black) and Kay Hernan. Signed and dated by Penn. Pre-auction estimate $15,000 - 20,000.

First Bikini, Harper's Bazaar, Montego Bay, Jamaica - Toni Frissell took this photo in 1945. Frissell says of this photo, "Model Dovima was dressed in the first bikini to be seen away from France. Next to the Casablanca was a tall white diving platform up fifty feet. I called to the fisherman and asked if he would let my model pose below the diving board. The effect was remarkable. The picture won an art award the next year." Pre-auction estimate $2,000-3,000.

Smoke + Veil, Paris, for Vogue - William Klein took this photo of Evelyn Tripp in 1958. Signed and dated on the back. Pre-auction estimate is $8,000-12,000.

Exhibits and Auctions of Interest - Calder Jewelry and Fashion Photos

The Jealous Husband necklace made of brass wire

circa 1949, worn by actress Angelica Huston.

Opening Tuesday, December 9 at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York is an exhibit of jewelry by famed artist Alexander Calder. While Calder is best known for his mobiles, he also produced about 1800 unique pieces of brass, silver, and gold jewelry. The exhibit will feature about 90 pieces, including necklaces, bracelets, earrings, brooches, and tiaras. The exhibit runs through March 1, 2009.

A Calder gold and steel wire brooch circa 1958.

Want to own your own piece of Calder jewelry? Head over to Doyle New York on Wednesday, December 10 for their auction of important estate jewelry. Included will be this 1940 Calder sterling silver bracelet with a pre-auction estimate of $25,000-35,000.

Or how about this vintage Tiffany gold, green enamel and diamond brooch with a pre-auction estimate of $2,000-3,000.

The complete auction catalog is available to view at DoyleNewYork.com.

Irving Penn's photo Lisa Fonssagrives wearing
Rochas for Vogue, 1950

An incredible collection of original photographs including many high fashion images will be auctioned at Christies, New York on December 16 and 17. Here is just a taste of what will be available.

Arthur Elgort's photo of Linda Evangelista

for French Vogue, 1989

More on this incredible auction tomorrow!

Links à la Mode: December 7

Please enjoy these links from my colleagues at IFB:

39thandbroadway.com - The nitty, gritty, down and dirty, details of working in the fashion industry that nobody prepares you for!

A Few Goody GumDrops - A Few Goody Gumdrops is giving away two to-die-for Katherine Kwei ever so chic handbags!Enter to Win!

Being High Maintenance, not Bitchy - Look divine this season, whatever your budget, in hot holiday jewelry

Capitola Girl Jewelry Blog - Which came first…the button or the button-hole?

Clutch 22 - Clutch 22 cut up a dress to create DIY Studded Oxfords

Couture Allure Vintage Fashion - How to party like it’s 1959! Vintage looks for a 50th birthday gala.

Daisy Fairbanks Vintage - Bringing out your inner Betty Draper, channeling the glamour of the early 60s with Mad Men fashion.

Debutante Clothing - Vintage Fashion History - What’s Wrong with Bows and Zippers?

dramatis personae - An interview with Xenia of Lime Crime Makeup (and Doe Deere Blogazine) about her new make-up line.

fashion in my eyes - Word on the street with Sasha Pivovarova

Fashion Pulse Daily - Fashion Pulse finds ways to get all gussied up for holiday parties via Target for under !

Fasshonaburu Fashion - Gift Guide for shopping for the label-obsessed, Gossip Girl watching teen during these economic hard times.

Flights of Fab Fashion Fancy - Flights of Fab Fashion Fancy is loving these effortless-looking, chic looks! Yay for black! It always works!

If Wishes Were Clothes Horses… - My exclusive interview with eccentric stylist, editor, notorious club personality and club night host JACK MITCHELL. He doesn’t mince his words, check it out…

In Life and In Fashion - Handbag Heaven or Hell? A perfectly organized handbag!

Independent Fashion Bloggers - How To Write The Perfect Holiday Gift Guide

Mademoiselle Robot - My crush on Claire Fisher from Six Feet Under.

MY Fashion Frenzy - My FIRST ‘Black Friday’ experience. “The phrase “crazy holiday shoppers” is an understatement!”

Nothing Elegant - Artist Gustave Klimt and his lifelong partner Emile Floge were influential fashion reformers, and their work is still inspiring designers today.

Or False Glitter - Advertising perfume: the mystery behind a physical representation of smell

Pencil - sd looks at how some bloggers use what they already have to create a completely unique and one-of-a-kind look.

Petite Bourgeoisie - John Caplan - The Man Behind Ford Models

respectfully yours - stylish gentleman: daniel craig as james bond.

Shopping and Info - Shopping and Info has the info on what Demi Lovato wore at the Twilight Premiere.

Smart Geezer - Girls! 10 Tips For Men’s Clothes Shopping!

Style Discovery - Who’s liking to my blog? Style Discovery’s 3rd bloggin tip post.

Style Symmetry - Stop by and Celebrate our One Year Blogaversary!

Stylish Thought - The Good Side of Sequins

Technology Starlet - The Technology Starlet chicBuds Holiday Gift Giveaway

The Bare Skinny - Fashion on the Go…Fabulous Iphone Apps.

THE COVETED - Lucky 13 Vintage Holiday Dresses

The Style PA - Going gaga for Lady Gaga. How one women is changing my mind about eighties fashion…

we wear things - We Wear Things goes Masked Avengers!

Weekend Eye Candy - Lucien Lelong Lounge Robe

Continuing with loungewear, a Lucien Lelong couture satin robe with fur collar and pockets from October 1945.

Glamorous Loungewear from 1949

It's been a long day at the office. Due to cut backs and layoffs, you're doing the work of 2 1/2 people, putting in endless hours as just another cog in the wheel of commerce. You trudge home, put on the same oversize t-shirt and sweatpants you've been wearing in the evening for the last three years. And in the back of your mind, you hear Peggy Lee singing, "Is That All There Is?".

When is the last time you felt like a woman? When is the last time you pampered yourself? When is the last time you indulged your glamorous side?

In the 1930's, 40's, and 50's, at the end of the day, a woman would don luxurious loungewear, and spend the evening feeling feminine and beautiful. She didn't wear it for her man (although it didn't hurt), but for herself. Why not give it a try, and see if it boosts your mood? And if you've never had the pleasure of feeling vintage rayon satin against your skin, you're in for a treat. There's nothing today that feels quite so sultry and delicious.

Above, a Dorian lounge robe in wool jersey with rayon slipper satin skirt, collar, and cuffs. Sold at Neiman Marcus and Best and Co. for $35 in 1949 ($317 today).

A champagne rayon slipper satin lounge robe styled like a trench coat by Raymodes. Sold at Saks Fifth Avenue for $20 in 1949 ($182 today).

Left - Textron hostess gown in red, blue, or green taffeta with black plaid, adorned with black buttons and a black leather belt. Sold for $25 in 1949 ($227 today).

Right - Robert Rosenfeld black rayon pajama jumpsuit with a rayon taffeta overblouse in copper with black stripes. Sold for $35 in 1949 ($317 today).

Lounge robes and pajamas from the 40's are becoming harder to find, but here's a great set from Robin Clayton Vintage that has a short robe with matching wide leg pajama pants. When searching online, you can also search the term hostess robe to bring more results.

For fun, here's the captivating Jean Harlow in some over-the-top lingerie from 1933's "Dinner at Eight".

Vintage Cashmere Sweaters

There's nothing quite like cashmere from the 1940's and 50's. Not only has it stood the test of time, it will last for many years to come with proper care. Unlike today's cheap cashmere that pills so easily, vintage cashmere sweaters are most often made from the long fibers gathered from the underside of the Kashmir goat. Those long fibers also make for an incredibly soft hand.

The photo above, from December 1957, is of "a sweater that couldn't possibly be just like one she already owns." The beige cashmere cardigan by Torrez VI is lined in 24K gold lamé and buttons with cabochon emeralds set in gold. The cost? A mere $650 (about $5000 today). No wonder she looks like she owns the world! The sweater is worn with a simple beige cashmere pullover and brown velveteen pants. And since the emerald buttons just aren't enough, jewelry sparkles at her ears, neck, and waist.

If you've never tried vintage cashmere, I urge to to take the plunge! Here are a few sweaters available from sellers I trust and recommend:

50's Dalton pink cashmere pullover with sailor collar from Blue Velvet Vintage:

1950's blue cashmere cardigan with fox fur collar from Past Perfect Vintage:

1950's red cashmere cardigan with mushroom embroidery from Fast Eddie's Retro Rags:

1950's cream cashmere cardigan with lace appliques from Listit Vintage Cafe:

Fashion in Film - The Thomas Crown Affair, 1968

The original 1968 version of the film "The Thomas Crown Affair" is showing for free on Comcast On Demand this month. Be sure to check it out if you can! Faye Dunaway stars with Steve McQueen in this romp through Boston that involves McQueen playing a millionaire businessman who robs a bank for fun. Dunaway plays the insurance investigator out to get him, but things get tangled
when she falls in love with him. The fun comes in watching the two play cat-and-mouse with each other right up to the end of the film.

Theodora Van Runkle designed all of Dunaway's 29 costumes for the film. Van Runkle and Dunaway had worked together previously on "Bonnie and Clyde", a film that sparked a trend for 1930's style fashion in the late 60's. Van Runkle had received an Oscar nomination for her work on that film, her first of three.

Van Runkle's designs for Dunaway in "The Thomas Crown Affair" give her a sophisticated yet hip appearance. Most are mini dresses or suits, and Dunaway wears fabulous wide brim hats in many scenes. She carries small handbags, and wears big sunglasses that lend her an air of mystery.

Perhaps the best known scene in the film, and one of my all time favorites, is the one in which Dunaway and McQueen play a game of chess. When McQueen meets Dunaway for the evening, she is wearing a demure lilac coat with wide bell sleeves that buttons up the side and across to the collar.







After arriving at his home, she removes the coat to reveal a silky chiffon halter dress with several layers that float around her legs.











The dress was completely backless to the waist. Surprise, surprise!

The scene that ensues is one of delightfully extended foreplay that leads to one of the best and longest on screen kisses in film.

Faye Dunaway had received a nomination for Best Actress for her work in "Bonnie and Clyde" and Theodora Van Runkle designed the gown Faye Dunaway wore to the 1968 Oscars. She also designed Dunaway's complete off screen wardrobe at the time. Van Runkle went on to an illustrious career as costume designer for many films and received two more Oscar nominations for her work on "The Godfather, Part II" and "Peggy Sue Got Married".