Sunday, September 20, 2009

New at Couture Allure - Vintage Designer Dresses and Suits

New this week at Couture Allure are the beginnings of a large collection of vintage designer garments from the 1960s through the 1990s we have sourced for you. Keep an eye on our What's New section of the website for some fantastic offerings over the coming months! Also added this week are dresses by Diane von Furstenberg, Larry Aldrich, Samuel Winston, Adele Simpson, and not one, but two dresses by Galanos!

The work of Galanos is as close to true haute couture as you can get. Each piece is hand finished with the finest of details. This evening gown by Galanos was sold by Bergdorf Goodman and dates to the early 1990s. It is fashioned of brown silk velvet with a burnout windowpane pattern that is lined with a sparkling black lurex fabric.

Combine a velvet halter bodice with a tiered taffeta circle skirt and you've got a fabulous vintage 50s party dress!

This vintage 60s cocktail dress by Christian Dior New York is fashioned of an unusual black mylar and sequin outer layer lined in nude color silk.

I wonder if, in it’s former life, this dress was worn by a woman of the Jet Set who traveled to the Cote d’Azur and wandered on the beach at sunset before going to a posh dinner party. Shown here with the matching huge silk chiffon wrap, click into the listing to see what this vintage 1960s evening dress looks like on it's own.

In the 1950s and early 60s Arthur Jablow was one of the companies authorized to copy Chanel suits. This is one of those copies. Fashioned of cream wool boucle, it is trimmed with gold metallic braid.

The name Lilli Ann brings to mind some of the best suits ever made. This vintage 1970’s evening suit is no exception. Here, Lilli Ann takes gold brocade to the maxi!

Saturday, September 19, 2009

Weekend Eye Candy - Elsa Schiaparelli 1938

helena rubinstein, schiaparelli, 1938, circus collection1938 - Madame Helena Rubinstein wears Elsa Schiaparelli's Circus collection evening jacket. The jacket is completely covered with embroidery of elephants and acrobats set against a swirled background.

Friday, September 18, 2009

Friday Miscellaneous

It's Friday and I want to share some miscellaneous news and notes from this week, and then I have more vintage sweaters for you.

First, vintage lovelies Pam at Glamoursplash and Hollis at Past Perfect Vintage bestowed the Kreativ Blogger Award on my little blog this week. I am honored gals! Thank you so much!!!!

A few months ago, I sold this vintage dress to Denaye. I received an email this morning from her sharing pictures of her vintage inspired engagement party held at their local County Fair. Don't she and her fiance David look great?



You can see more photos at Vintage Glam Weddings and at the photographer's blog, Overexposed.

There has been a nip of Fall in the air the last couple of days, and we are starting to see hints of the leaves changing colors. The tomato plants are spent and it is time to pot up some of our herbs to bring indoors for the winter. In honor of cooler weather, I have more 1958 sweaters for you this morning. I love the pairing of these with red plaid skirts, pants, and Bermuda shorts, all with red tights and red shoes.

From left to right:
- Catalina wool and orlon grey hooded sweater. The hood is lined in faux fur. Paired with Jack Winter wool/orlon plaid pants and a red scarf.
- Premier red orlon fisherman's knit sweater worn with a Vera hood and College Town plaid shorts and red tights.
- Shaggy wool and mohair hooded sweater with wool plaid pants, both by Koret. Worn with boot tights (nylon tights with shoes combined) by Capezio.
- Bradley hooded red wool sweater worn with a Leathermodes red jerkin and Mademoiselle Modes plaid kilt and red tights.
Red shoes on 3 of the models by Patinos.

Thursday, September 17, 2009

Back to College Sweaters from 1958

Campus co-eds headed back to college in the season's best sweaters in 1958. Sweaters were worn with tight skirts for class or matched with pants for casual wear. Headbands were a popular accessory.

Darlene offered these sweaters in their exclusive "Minklam", a super soft blend of lambswool and fur fibers. If you've ever felt a Darlene sweater, you know what I mean. Interesting to note that Darlene also offered Darlene Tites, dyed to match the sweaters. I think they complete the look nicely. Sweaters sold for $11-$13 in 1958 (about $81-$96 in today's dollar).

Jantzen answered the sacque trend with this balloon backed cardigan in washable wool. Sweater sold for $16 in 1958 (about $118 in today's dollar).

Jane Irwill was another well known brand for separates. These bulky knit sweaters are all of wool and are matched with Jane Irwill skirts. Sweaters sold for $10-$16 in 1958 (about $74-$118 in today's dollar).

Jantzen offered these shaggy sweaters in a blend of wool and mohair. Sweaters sold for $13-$15 in 1958 (about $96-$111 in today's dollar).

Ship'n Shore offered these sweater tops in acrylic and cotton knits that were hand washable. Sold for $5-$6 in 1958 (about $37-$44 in today's dollar).

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Vintage Coats - 1950s

Today, I continue my look at coat styles through the years with the 1950s. As Dior's New Look emerged in the late 1940s, coats began to increase in width and volume to cover the new full skirted fashions. Full skirts did not trickle down to regular fashion until about 1950, which is when we start to see the same volume in coats worn by the everyday woman.

From 1950, here you see a coat with a fitted bodice that flares out with deep pleats in the skirt in the style we now call a princess coat. Notice the wide sleeves and huge collar.

Another popular style to wear with full skirts was a coat with huge volume that flares out from the shoulders. Today, we call this a swing coat. This coat dates to 1951. Note that the sleeves are now at 3/4 length with deep cuffs.

By 1955, a more modified princess style started to emerge with a fitted bodice and a flare that is not quite as wide in the skirt.

By the mid 1950s, the clutch coat becomes very popular. While very impractical, clutch coats were made with no buttons or closures of any kind. Women would wrap the coat closed and hold it in place with one arm clutched across the waist.

Here, you see another popular trend, the pushed up sleeve. When combined with a clutch style, I can imagine this woman constantly having to fuss with her coat!

Also, while full coats were still popular, we begin to see simpler, straighter cuts. This coat, from 1955, has sleeves that can be worn full length or pushed up.

In 1956, we see styles that are straight cut in front but with a bit of sack like fullness across the back. Those push up sleeves and clutch styles are still popular.

By 1958, sleeves are back to hanging straight. Slim Chesterfield style coats are popular for day...

...while for evening, the full cocoon style emerges. These coats were made of exotic fabrics and had unusual cuts with most of the sleeve cut as part of the body of the coat. This style will continue to emerge in the early 1960s, which we'll look at next week!

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Fall Fashion 1954 and Ugly Food

In looking back at fashion from the past, it's not all about the designer duds shown in high fashion magazines. We must remember the young housewife and mother who needed to look good on a budget. Today's images come from a 1954 magazine called Better Living, a small monthly that focused on the home, cooking, and decorating with just a touch of fashion. These images give us a perfect look into what a young woman would wear during the day when going shopping in the city, to a doctor's appointment, or a meeting at the children's school. Notice the focus on the wasp waist that is achieved with the fuller hips or the short bolero jackets in these designs. Also notice the accessories. A hat and gloves were always worn. A scarf tucked into a V neckline was a fashion trend. We also get a look at some cute purses and even a fur muff!

McKettrick grey dress with bolero jacket, trimmed with velvet piping. Sold in 1954 for $18 (about $143 in today's dollar).

A solid maroon cotton dress is set off with a coordinating plaid bolero jacket. Dress by Sue Brett. Sold in 1954 for $18 (about $143 in today's dollar).

A wide waistband shapes this dress by Maxine Bentley for Youthguild. Sold in 1954 for $20 (about $159 in today's dollar).

This coat dress by Queen Make buttons all the way down the front. Sold in 1954 for $23 (about $182 in today's dollar).

The wide skirt of this dress by Sue Brett has graceful unpressed pleats for added volume. A leopard print scarf is tucked into the neckline. Sold in 1954 for $23 (about $182 in today's dollar).

A sweet calico print fashions a demure dress by Juniorite. Sold in 1954 for $14 (about $111 in today's dollar).

Also in this magazine, there are several recipes for "Lazy Cooks" who want to cook dinner in one dish. The recipes feature canned and frozen food. Looks appetizing? No way, no how. This is UGLY FOOD!

For the one dish dinner at the bottom, open two cans of spaghetti with tomato sauce into a baking dish. Arrange frozen fish sticks on top in a pretty pattern. Spoon canned corn around the edges. Season with salt and pepper, dot with butter and bake for 15-20 minutes in a 425° oven. Ewwwwwwwww.

The other dishes shown? At the top left, fried Spam with canned green beans and onions cooked with brown sugar. At the top right, canned breakfast sausage with fried zucchini and canned peaches. More ewwwwwwwww. Thank you, mom, for not reading Better Living magazine!

Monday, September 14, 2009

Couture Accessories - 1963

Accessories have become a very important part of a designer's work in the modern world. Never before has there been so much focus on a woman's bag, shoes, or boots. Where today's fashion magazines are full of advertisements for purses, you don't see them at all in vintage magazines. Here, from 1963, is a glimpse at accessories sold in the Paris Boutiques of some of the Haute Couture.

Tiny crystals dangle from big faux pearls in three strands from the Lanvin Boutique.

A rigid rhinestone collar with dangling rhinestone teardrops by Gripoix for the Lanvin Boutique.

Capucci used dramatic jeweled brooches instead of buttons on a white tea gown.

Roger Model fashioned an evening bag of black plastic links mixed with golden stars for Balenciaga.

A Roger Forest black crocodile bag with a rigid handle cut in one with the body of the purse and a Roman coin latch.
Roger Vivier showed black kidskin boots with new curved stacked leather heels. Roger Model designed this grey calfskin "country" handbag with a gold metal handle shaped like bamboo.

Roger Vivier attached dramatic rhinestone and pearl shoe clips to a black velvet sling-back pump for Dior.

Sunday, September 13, 2009

New at Couture Allure - Vintage Designer Garments

New at Couture Allure this week are lots of vintage designer garments. Many of our newly listed items are selling before I can show them to you! Are you checking our What's New page frequently?

Incredible, amazing, and oh, so very rare. This Jacques Heim cocoon coat dates to 1958-59. The cut of this coat is quite ingenious. The little sleeves are cut and sewn so they naturally curve to the front.
I had to show you the back of this vintage 1960's suit. Just look at that link belt with spotted fur that matches the collar! No labels on this baby, but the quality of the construction says it is a designer piece.

I am absolutely in love with the incredible print on this 1970’s Lanvin evening gown. Probably designed by Jules-Francois Crahay, the print is of an oversize floral garden in neon colors on black. It almost looks like the flowers are glowing under a black light.

In 1976, Yves St. Laurent presented his Russian couture collection based upon the Ballets Russe. Perhaps his most well known triumph, pieces from this collection are in museums across the world. This vintage 70’s blouse from the Rive Gauche label has the same peasant styling as the Russian collection and probably dates to around the same time.

Minarets and Moroccan windows make up the stylized design on this vintage 1970’s dress by print master Maurice.

Eleanora Garnett was an Italian couturier whose dresses were often featured in the 1950's Cadillac ads. This vintage 1970's dress by Garnett is fashioned of polka dot silk crepe and has couture quality construction.

Saturday, September 12, 2009

Weekend Eye Candy - Erté Dress 1925

When I was in design school, I was often inspired by the details in Erté's designs. This frock, from 1925, is fashioned of purple crepe de chine which has been ingeniously shirred in varying directions on the bodice of the dress. The cocoon sleeves are held in place with orange ribbons and are completely detachable.

Friday, September 11, 2009

What's That Fabric? Glen Plaid

Glen plaid is a twill woven pattern of small and large checks that form a sort of plaid-within-plaid pattern. It is usually made of tropical weight wool.

Glen plaid is one of those classic patterns that is always in fashion. The pattern is subtle enough to become a neutral and can be mixed with solids or prints.

From 1955, woman's suit with black velvet Chesterfield collar and pleated skirt by Moordale. Men's suit by Bloomingdale's. Click the picture for a larger view.