Dior and Crystal - 1958

Another image in the series Gleb Derujinsky did with crystal chandeliers for Harper's Bazaar in 1958.  The model wears a black satin and velvet cocktail dress with coat by Christian Dior - New York and a head hugging cocktail hat by the same designer.  I like the addition of the mirror in this shot.

Photo by Gleb Derujinsky for Harper's Bazaar, 1958
Fashion editory, Diana Vreeland

Brocade and Crystal - 1958

Yesterday, I showed you a beautiful image taken by Gleb Derujinsky in 1958.  Here is another in the same series.  I'd really love to see behind the scenes shots of Derujinsky setting up the lighting and the placement of the models for these photos.  As you'll see, each is very different.  More tomorrow!

The white silk brocade dress is by Mollie Parnis.  Interesting shape to that armhole.  Dress sold for $145 in 1958 (about $1,169 in today's dollar.)  Hat by Irene of New York.

Photo by Gleb Derujinsky for Harper's Bazaar, 1958.
Fashion editor, Diana Vreeland.

Black and Crystal - 1958

I adore crystal and sparkle, which is why I adore this image.  In the fall of 1958, Gleb Derujinsky chose to photograph several evening looks amidst a plethora of crystal chandeliers for Harper's Bazaar.  I'll be showing you several of these images this week.

Take a closer look at this voluminous evening coat by Anita Modes.  While this coat may have looked a bit too much in a solid fabric, it is perfect in black lace that allows the slender black taffeta cocktail dress underneath to peek through.  The gathered pouf at the hem of the coat is in the same taffeta as the dress.  Quite striking!  Pose that black in the center of all the crystal and you have perfection!

Photo by Gleb Derujinsky for Harper's Bazaar, 1958.
Fashion editor, Diana Vreeland.

I. Miller Evening Shoes - 1958

"To balance The Empire, gold medallions on lustrous silk satin woven in France by Cotillion. For late day and resort in gold with sparkling colors." 

They just don't make shoes like they used to.  Would I wear these?  In a heartbeat.  Shoes by I. Miller, 1958.

Full page ad from Harper's Bazaar, 1958.  No artist signature on the illustration.

Weekend Eye Candy - Givenchy, 1958

Suddenly, the holiday party season is upon us.  How about an oh-so-feminine velvet bubble dress with matching fur lined hooded bolero?  Yes, please!  Ensemble by Hubert de Givenchy, 1958.

Weekend Eye Candy, June Bride 1958

Carven designed this drop waisted tea length wedding gown in 1958.  The full length mantilla veil makes it more formal for the church.

Travilla Dress - 1958

Travilla's version of the sack back dress from 1958.  The dress is likely fitted to the body under the blouson that falls from the thin shoulder straps and tucks back in under the waistband.  The magazine calls this a "cocktails-through-dawn" dress.  I like that description.  Sold for $125 in 1958 (about $1,007 in today's dollar.)

Photo by Louise Dahl-Wolfe for Harper's Bazaar.

Dan River Plaids - 1958

Plaid never looked so good.  In this ad from 1958, the Dan River fabric company features 3 dresses made from its yarn dyed woven plaids.  Started in 1882, Dan River was one of the most famous and prolific of the American textile companies, well known for their gingham fabrics.  Sadly, the company fell victim to cheap overseas competition and declared bankruptcy in 2004.  The company was purchased by firm in India in 2006 and all jobs were moved out of the US.  The historic textile plant in Danville, VA was taken down in 2008.

Weekend Eye Candy - Lanvin-Castillo, 1958

Suzy Parker Wearing Sophie of Saks

From 1958, the gorgeous Suzy Parker wearing a made-to-order ensemble by Sophie of Saks.  Asian style black silk surah is jacquard woven with golden brown flowers and fashioned into a sheath dress with a draped skirt.  The floral clusters in the fabric are cut out and appliqued onto a black cashmere sweater to match.  Here, the cardigan is buttoned up over the dress, but you could also just drape it casually over your shoulders.

Photo by Richard Avedon for Harper's Bazaar.

Weekend Eye Candy - Givenchy, 1958

First, a bit of business.  The winner of yesterday's giveaway of "The Fashion Book" is Suzanne.  Congratulations Suzanne!  I'll email you shortly for your shipping address.  And thank you to everyone who entered my giveaways this week.  I hope all the winners enjoy their books and I hope those of you who didn't win will continue to follow my blog.  I truly love sharing my fascination with vintage fashion here.

In the spring of 1958, Givenchy designed this dress and jacket ensemble in turquoise wool with a marvelous textured weave.  Love that wide lapel and the belt makes the entire outfit sing.  The car is a Ford.  Hubby says it's a Fairlane.  I think I'm in love.

Perfect Shoes, 1958

Perhaps I should say the perfect photograph for the perfect ad for the perfect shoe.  Karen Radkai took this photo for Delman shoes in 1958.  The photo says it all, so just adding the one word "Delman" to the full page ad is enough.  The composition of the photo is incredible, as are the shoes!

Pierre Cardin Coat - 1958

Pierre Cardin designed this gorgeous coat for his Fall 1958 couture line.  The coat is made from a heavy wool that is cartridge pleated at the yoke and collar.  The cartridge pleats open out into lovely fullness for the body of the coat.

Here's a closer view.  Cartridge pleats are not easy to do, as they have to be sewn by hand every few inches and then attached to a backing fabric to hold their shape.  I've sewn cartridge pleats on cotton and it was not fun.  I cannot imagine attempting this treatment on heavy wool coating!

This line drawing will give you an idea of the work that goes into making cartridge pleats with the rows of hand stitching.  I've never seen this method used for a collar, but it's quite effective, isn't it?

Jo Copeland Evening Dress - 1958

Jo Copeland designed this stunning evening gown in 1958 and it was featured in a full page ad for Bonwit Teller.  "Almondine, my beauty...ravishing almond green satin that sweeps up front, down in back with fringed satin panels trailing.  The bodice is a shimmer of metallic ribbon."  Note how carefully the ribbons are layered to follow the lines of the fitted bodice.  Matching opera length gloves?  Yes, please.

Christian Dior Fringed Dress - 1958

Brilliant red silk faille fashions this gorgeous party gown by Christian Dior for Spring, 1958.  Christian Dior died in October of 1957 and Yves St. Laurent was promoted to head designer in 1958.  We'll never know if Dior himself had conceived of this gown before his death, or if the design is purely St. Laurent's.  But isn't it wonderful?  The silk has been fringed at the edges of the underskirt and at the ends of the bow.  Fringing silk is a time consuming process.  This is not a separate trim that is applied to the hem of the dress.  Rather, the edge is left unfinished and the weft threads are removed one by one, leaving the warp threads to form the fringe.

You've probably seen the same technique used on the edges of napkins.

Here you can see a seamstress removing the weft threads on a decorative collar.  This technique is pretty easy to do on a loosely woven linen, as shown here.  I cannot imagine the hours it must have taken to get the same effect on the tightly woven silk faille used in the Dior gown. 

Tom Brigance Convertible Sportswear, 1958

Noted sportswear designer Tom Brigance had some fun playing with drawstrings and hemlines in 1958.  Watch how these fashions, modeled by Suzy Parker, change from one look to another for vacation and resort versatility.

This cotton playsuit and matching skirt look like a pretty daytime dress when worn together.

Pull on the drawstring in the skirt's hem and tie it at the waist.  The result is a balloon of a short skirt that poufs over the playsuit rompers.  Cute, no?  The set sold for $30 in 1958 (about $238 in today's dollar.)

This red plaid cotton beach coat buttons down the front and can double as a daytime shirtdress.

Pull that drawstring up, pouf the fabric and you've got a cute romper style to wear on the beach.  Sold for $25 in 1958 (about $198 in today's dollar.)  Hat by William J.

Weekend Eye Candy - Jean Barthet, 1958

It is only fair that I finish a week of hats with another wonderful example, this one by Jean Barthet from 1958.  Isn't it amazing what a simple rose can do for a hat?  What does your Easter bonnet look like? 

Summer Jumpsuit - 1958

Photo by Louise Dahl-Wolfe

Whoa!  And you thought the jumpsuit was a 70s invention!  This one piece jumpsuit by Baldini is from 1958.  I love the bold black and white cotton print.  There is no indication, but this probably buttons or zips at the front.  It looks fabulous on her, but since there is no stretch in the fabric, I'll bet this wasn't all that comfortable to wear.  Sold in 1958 for $35 (about $276 in today's dollar.)

Jo Collins - 1958

Jo Collins was a junior label made by Mandel Manufacturing Company in St. Louis.  St. Louis, MO was the center of junior clothing manufacturing in the U.S. from the 1930s into the early 1960s.  Jo Collins was likely not a real person, but rather just a name used by the manufacturer.  The Jo Collins line consisted of dresses, suits, and separates in junior sizes and was active from about 1949 to the early 60s.

The rose print dress above is from 1958 and was made of Everfast cotton.  I love rose prints and this one is especially pretty.  

The same rose print cotton is used in separates as part of the same line in 1958.
Left:  One-piece playsuit.  Sold in 1958 for $8 (about $63 in today's dollar.)
Center:  Blouse and skirt.  Sold in 1958 for $16.50 (about $129 in today's dollar.)  
Right:  Blouson top and shorts.  Sold in 1958 for $14 (about $110 in today's dollar.)

As I've said before, I love coordinating separates.  Don't like the blouson top?  Wear the little blouse from the center with the shorts.  Pop the skirt over the playsuit.  The possibilities are are limited only by your imagination!

Lanvin-Castillo Dress - 1958

Bergdorf Goodman offered this copy of a Lanvin-Castillo design in their custom salon for Spring 1958.  The dress was available in all white lace or white lace re-embroidered in gold or silver threads. Perfect for your New Year's celebration, no? Sold for $650 in 1958 (about $5,093 in today's dollar.)