Fashion in Film - How to Marry a Millionaire

"How to Marry a Millionaire", from 1953, was on the Retroplex channel the other night, a movie I hadn't seen in years. This comedy stars Betty Grable, Lauren Bacall, and Marilyn Monroe as three golddigging models who set out to find husbands with lots of money.

William Travilla was the costume designer for the film, under the direction of Charles LeMaire. They were nominated for an Academy Award for the film, although the Oscar went to "The Robe". Of course, Travilla is best known for his work with Monroe, as he was able to engineer costumes for her that showed her to her best advantage.

While 20th Century Fox allowed Marilyn to show as much cleavage as she wanted off screen, she was required to be covered up in her films. Travilla actually wired the inside of Monroe's costumes to keep her breasts from bouncing on screen.

"How to Marry a Millionaire" was the second film by Fox produced in Cinemascope. While the film labs insisted that there was no distortion, the fact was that Cinemascope did widen the actresses on the screen. Close-ups had to be avoided. Full skirts were the height of fashion at the time, but all three actresses initially refused to wear them because of the on-screen distortion. LeMaire did not want the Fox designers to appear ignorant of current fashion, so he called a meeting of the three actresses. Grable and Bacall agreed to wear some full skirted costumes, most having the fullness flare from the lower hips. Monroe was insistent on wearing tight skirts throughout the film.

Many of the comic moments in the film are provided by Marilyn's character, who is blind as a bat and can't see without her glasses. She stumbles and bumbles around, continually hiding her glasses when in the company of men.

Travilla was able to design lots of evening gowns for the film as we watch the three girls date the various millionaires. But the best scene is the fashion show, where we get to see a parade of summer resort fashions and beachwear. The film is a "must see" for that scene alone!

Here is a short clip from the fashion show where Marilyn wears a red bathing suit and cover-up studded with rhinestones. Check out the clear plastic platforms on her shoes! You'll see one of Marilyn's funny moments at the end when she trips because she can't see without her glasses.

Iris Apfel - The Clothes

I had several emails with questions about who designed the various garments in the Iris Apfel exhibit photos from yesterday. As a follow-up, here are the details about the clothes for you. Apfel is lucky enough to wear a sample size, and many of her haute couture garments were bought at sample sales and at fashion treasure shops like the original Loehman's in Brooklyn. She also shops flea markets and vintage stores around the world, where she finds much of her jewelry and accessories. Click the photos for larger views.

Jacket - Oscar de la Renta c. 2000 - Patchwork of silk faille, silk damask, and cotton velvet with silk and gold metal embroidery
Necklaces - Angela Caputi c. 2001 - Acrylic and metal
Boots - Kenzo c. 1990 - Taupe suede

Tunic - Gianfranco Ferré c. 1994 - Brown nutria and wool knit
Pants - Unknown c. 1990s - Brown and grey wool tweed with self-fabric crochet cuffs.
Necklaces - European c. late 1970s - Baltic amber and silver
Bracelets - All 20th century - Wood, amber, and acrylic
Ring - European c. 1990 - Baltic amber and wood

Coat - Flea market find - antique British paisley wool shawls
Carrying Case - Tibetan c. late 19th century - Silver, copper, amber, coral, and turquoise
Purse - French c. late 19th century - Paisley wool shawl and hammered silver amalgam
Brooch - Turkish c. early 20th century - Converted metal belt buckle with turquoise and amber glass
Necklaces - American flea market finds, 2003 - Mahogany beads
Boots - Designed by Iris Apfel, made by Canfora c. 1970s - Antique paisley wool shawls and leather

Coat - Emanuel Ungaro c. 2000 - Ombré pink and light pink striped clipped rabbit fur, unlined.
Pants - Emanuel Ungaro c. 1999 - Dark pink velvet with resist-printed light pink polka dots.
Brooch - American c. 1983 - Pink acrylic and blue rhinestones
Shoes - Kate Spade c. 2002 - Pink silk satin

Poncho - Italian, 1980s - Red Persian lamb and rabbit fur pile with brown leather lining
Pants - Christian Dior Haute Couture c. 2002 - ivory cotton twill with wolf fur trim
Belt - Unknown tribal piece, mid 20th century - red cotton velvet with applied shells

Brooch - Iradj Moini c. 1990 - Pink, blue, and green glass with rhinestones and metal.

Jacket - Lanvin Haute Couture c. 1989
Jewelry and Belt - All pieces are silver and turquoise by Indigenous Americans (Navajo and Pueblo peoples) dating from the 1940s - 1970s.

Evening coat - Koos van den Akker, 1983 - Crushed black cotton velvet with multicolored metallic appliques and gilt braid trim.
Mask - Venetian, late 20th century

Evening Coat - Antonio del Castillo Haute Couture c. 1961 - Gold lamé ribbon applique on gold Mylar with paillettes, beads, and rhinestones
Necklaces - Tibetan c. early 20th century - Amber, turquoise, and silver
Bracelets - Unknown c. 1950s - 1970s - Topaz, glass, metal, green glass, topaz rhinestones, gilt metal
Cuff Bracelet - Thierry Mugler c. 1990 - Gilt metal and topaz rhinestones
Gloves - American c. 2000 - Gilt Lycra
Booted trousers - Anne Klein c. mid 1980s - Green stretch panné velvet and gold metallic leather.

Lessons from Iris Apfel

Last week, I went to the Peabody Essex Museum in Salem, MA to see the exhibit "Rare Bird of Fashion - The Irreverent Iris Apfel" for the second time. I had gone to see it a few months ago with several friends and loved it. This time, I went alone and had a completely different experience. The first time around, I studied the pages of the exhibit handbook to see who had designed each piece of clothing, how old the garments were, and where they had come from. This time, I left the exhibit handbook in the rack, and just looked, absorbed, and became enveloped by the feelings, the colors, and the textures of Iris's wardrobe. I purposely went early and the galleries were almost empty. That allowed me to truly connect with her philosophy of fashion, and I learned a lot. The following are images from the book that accompanies the exhibit,"Rare Bird of Fashion" by Eric Boman. The quotes are Apfel's own.

"Style is integral. It's something that's you."

"You have to study yourself, learn who you are. That requires some work."

"You can copy someone else's style, but it won't be yours."

"I just mix and put things together the way the spirit moves me."

"The fun of getting dressed is it's a creative experience."

"I love accessories. For me, they are the most important part of my wardrobe."

"Given the choice, I would spend my money on accessories."

"You only have one trip. You might as well enjoy it."

I say, dress to please yourself. Listen to your inner muse and take a chance. Wear something that says "Here I am!" today.

New at Couture Allure - Vintage Dresses

Watch the What's New page at Couture Allure to see our new listings, or become a Fan on Facebook!

1940s sheer cotton full skirt dress

Early 1960s Norman Norell evening gown

1950s black sequin cocktail dress

1950s chiffon polka dot dress

1950s French designer gold silk with metallic embroidery cocktail dress

1950s pleated chiffon beaded dance dress

Weekend Eye Candy - 1966

This is an image from a book of Michael Doster photographs. The picture was taken in Munich in 1966, but the book does not credit the designer of the fabulous swing-y top worn over shorts. Is it Dior, Cardin, Heim? We'll never know, but with the thigh high boots and the huge wide brimmed hat, I'm inclined to guess this outfit was by an Italian designer. Forquet? Galitzine? Fabiano? I wish I could tell you.

Couture Allure Giveaway #4

Today's giveaway is for 3 copies of McCall's magazine from the early 1960s! Lots of fun articles with a look back at life in the 1960s, plus recipes, decorating, and fashion.

July 1960

January 1963

July 1964

How do you enter to win? Simple! Visit my website, www.coutureallure.com and pick your favorite item for sale. Leave a comment here with a link to that item and you're entered! OR become a new fan of Couture Allure on Facebook, come back here and leave a comment that you've done so. Do both, and you're entered twice! The winner will be drawn on Friday, January 22nd. Please note: If your Blogger profile does not include your email address, please leave it in your comment so I have a way to contact you. The magazines will be shipped via Media Mail in the U.S. and First Class International Mail outside the U.S. It is important to note - if you live outside the U.S. or Canada, I will need to ask you to pay the postage costs, which could be as much as $25.00 depending upon where in the world you live.

Giveaway #3 Winner!

The winner of "American Dress Pattern Catalogs, 1873-1909" is Jen Thompson of Festive Attyre! Congratulations, Jen! I'll be in touch to arrange shipment of your book.

Jacques Fath Made in America - 1949

Parisian couturier Jacques Fath was known for his designs that glorified the female figure. In 1948, Fath signed an agreement with American manufacturer Joseph Halpert to produce a line of Made in America ready-to-wear clothing for women in the U.S. The line was carried in high end department stores like Lord & Taylor, Bonwit Teller, Julius Garfinkle, and Hudson's.

Here are 4 of the designs from the first collection produced for Spring of 1949.

This black Moygashel linen dress is accented with decorative black buttons at the shoulders and hips. Sold for $90 in 1949 (about $818 in today's dollar). Hat by John Frederics.

Left: A white pique ankle length dress is accented with pink satin shoulder straps and belt. Sold for $200 in 1949 (about $1818 in today's dollar).
Right: A stylized bow forms the collar of this white pique evening gown. Worn with a gold lizard belt and gold lizard gloves. Sold for $165 in 1949 (about $1500 in today's dollar). Jewels by David Webb.

Fath's love of asymmetry is used to great affect in this Moygashel linen dress. The skirt has a diagonal line of black buttons and bound buttonholes. The brown lining shows when the skirt panel is folded back. Hat by John Frederics.

Guessing Game

And now, on to some lighter fare!

Ah, yes, a delightful intimate supper party for you and your best friend along with your husbands at a charming villa in Rome. You don your best party dresses and jewels, put your hair up, and require the men to wear tuxedos. You prepare to sit on the sofa that matches the wallpaper that matches the drapes. You try to avoid noticing the ugly chandelier. So refined. So elegant. So chi-chi.

What is being sold in this advertisement? Click on the photo for a larger view. I'll post the answer for all after someone guesses correctly!

While you're guessing, don't forget to sign up for my latest giveaway, a copy of the book "American Dress Pattern Catalogs, 1873-1909". Just two more days until I draw a winner! Sign up here.

You guys are good! The ad was for Lenox China. I love this image. Does anyone buy fine china anymore? We use Fiesta pottery at my house.

Thank You!

Image from JoFreeman.com

Thank you so much for all the comments, emails, Tweets, Facebook links, and blog referrals about my post yesterday on Fraudulent Label Switching. I am overwhelmed and deeply grateful for your support.

It is interesting to note some of the experiences I have heard about in response to this post.

- There is the story of a buyer of vintage couture who bid on a 1950s Balenciaga gown by phone that was being offered at a very well known auction house. The labels were clearly shown in the photos of the gown on the auctioneer's website. When the gown was received by the buyer, however, only a corner of the label remained. The rest had been removed by someone during the auction preview.

- There is the story of a fellow seller who sent a vintage dress by an important designer off to be dry cleaned by a well known firm in New York that offers special handling and care of couture garments. When the dress was returned to the seller, the label was "missing".

- There is the story from a former store owner who told me of the Dior numbered couture label that was torn out of a vintage jacket that was for sale in her store. She also reported about Chanel buttons being removed from garments.

- There is the story of a local vintage clothing auction where an early Oscar de la Renta label was sewn by machine into the side seam of a cheap 1980s nylon nightgown. The garment was being offered as a "vintage evening gown". The auctioneer didn't know better.

Sad, isn't it?

For more information and tips about protecting yourself from fraud in the vintage industry, read Hollis's excellent posts about "Vintage Shopping: Buyer Beware" at her blog, Past Perfect Vintage.

Beware of Fraudulent Label Switching

I am going to make some people angry with this post, but as an honest and knowledgeable dealer of vintage clothing, I need to make my readers aware of an issue that has been bothering me for quite awhile. The fraudulent practice of sewing vintage or designer labels into clothing that has no label or replacing a less desirable label with a better known one is, unfortunately, becoming more prevalent. Now, don't get me wrong. There are lots and lots of honest and trustworthy sellers of vintage clothing out there. But before you buy, it is wise to know who you are buying from, what to expect and what to look for.

It is important to note that a seller who is offering a garment with suspected label switching may not be the culprit. There is a lot of buying and selling amongst vintage and used clothing dealers that goes on behind the scenes in this industry. There are also many, many sellers who have jumped into this industry because it is "fun". Those sellers may not have the education and experience to recognize when a label has been switched, and may be offering a garment for sale thinking it is the real thing.

Where do dishonest dealers come up with the labels they sew into clothing? Easy. It is not uncommon to see lots like the one above offered for sale on eBay, and these lots often sell for good money. This one sold for about $35 several months ago. There is lots of clothing at thrift stores that is ugly or out of style, but many of those garments bear a desirable label. Labels can be removed from a damaged garment and sewn into an undamaged one. Disreputable dealers will remove designer labels from scarves, hats, gloves, lingerie, and men's ties, then sew them into vintage clothing to pass a garment off as a high end or designer one.

This is a label from a Schiaparelli hat. It was sewn into a skirt that was not designed by Schiaparelli. The skirt sold on eBay for over $650 to an unsuspecting buyer.

This Valentino Jeans label was sewn into a brocade evening gown which was being offered on eBay for several hundred dollars.

So how do you protect yourself? The best way is to learn about what to look for. Here are some tips and common blunders to watch out for. NOTE: These are general guidelines, and will not apply to all garments all the time.

1. First and formost, if a seller is listing a garment as a designer piece, they should always show the label. If a picture of the label is not included in the listing, ask (demand) to see it before you buy. And if they do show the label, but the image is cropped so you can't see the edges, ask for another photo.

2. In general, the label on a vintage designer garment that predates the 1980s will be sewn in by hand with thread that matches the label color. There are notable exceptions, (Grenelle Estevez and Ceil Chapman labels were sewn by machine along the edge of the zipper in the 40s and 50s) but hand stitching and matching thread are the first things I look for.

This Christian Dior label looks questionable because it is sewn in by machine with black thread. Research shows that this is a Dior scarf label, but this photo was taken from an auction for a vintage coat.

3. Newer designer labels are often sewn in by machine, but you would be wise to know how each designer attaches their labels to their garments.

This Carmen Marc Valvo label was removed from one garment, and sewn into another. You can see the original needle holes and white thread at the sides of the label. The label was then sewn into a garment with black thread across the top - a garment that was not by Carmen Marc Valvo.

4. While some modern high-end designer labels are still sewn in by hand, many have gone to machine sewn labels as a cost and time saving measure. However, those labels will be sewn neatly and with care.

You can see the original white threads at the corners that were used to hand sew this label into a Chanel garment. The label was removed and sewn into a different garment with black machine stitching.

5. If a label is sewn in by machine, it will be neatly done, and again, the thread color will generally match the label.

Messy and uneven machine stitching is not found in designer garments.

6. In general, the size of the label will be in proportion to the size and weight of the garment. Accessories like scarves and ties will have small labels. Coats bear larger labels.

This tiny Molyneux label (probably from a scarf) was sewn into a coat.

7. Educate yourself about where a particular designer places his labels. Estevez usually put his labels at the back waist of his dresses in the 1960s. Norman Norell labels are usually found hand sewn to the center back seam of the skirt. Know what to expect and question any label that is not in the usual spot.

This Oscar de la Renta label from the 60s or 70s belongs at the back neck of the dress and should be sewn in by hand. Here it is sewn by machine into a side seam. It even looks like the seller has used the label twice!

8. Modern zig-zag stitches do not belong in a vintage garment.

A label sewn in with zig-zag stitching on a 1950s dress? No way.

9. Know the general styles that designers made. For instance, designer Ben Zuckerman only made suits and coats, never party dresses or lingerie.

Sometime in the late 1950s, Lilli Ann started sewing their labels in with zig-zag stitches in white thread along the sides of the label. This label has been sewn in by hand at the 4 corners with matching thread, but you can see the impressions in the label from the original machine sewn zig-zag stitching. This suit label was very cleverly sewn in to a 1950s party dress - a style that was never made by Lilli Ann.

These are general guidelines, but may not be true in all cases. There are times when stitching that doesn't appear original is fine. Most department stores and boutiques offered in-house alterations up until the late 1960s. Often times, when a garment was altered, the original label had to be removed and sewn back in by the store's seamstress. Or, perhaps the owner of the garment removed the label to get through customs without paying duty and then sewed it back in at home. I'm not saying that all labels that don't have original stitching are fraudulent. But it is in your best interest to be aware and take care.

All of the label images shown above are actual photos from clothing items that were offered for sale on eBay and Etsy over the last year. Remember, I am NOT saying that all sellers are dishonest. I am NOT saying fraudulent label switching is limited to eBay and Etsy. I am simply advising you to be careful and to look closely before you buy.