Vintage Vogue Pattern 196 - 4 More Looks

Here are the other 4 looks produced from Vogue Design 196 as shown in the October 1959 issue of Ladies Home Journal magazine. I showed you look number 1 yesterday. Look number 2 is made in grey wool flannel. The pleated dress is matched with the boxy jacket for a suit look. The belt makes all the difference with this look. Big mother-of-pearl buttons are matched to bound buttonholes and the pleats on the skirt are pressed to a sharp crease. I love the addition of the yellow gloves and hat. They perk the grey right up.

Another suit look, this time in violet tweed, with the slim sheath dress matched to the fitted jacket. I don't know where the magazine found a mouton fur collar tinted to match the fabric, and I doubt you could today. But, you could remove a fur collar from a vintage coat or suit, take it to your fabric store, and match your fabric to it. The magazine also suggests this dress can be worn for evening without the jacket and by adding sparkly jewelry. Hat by Mr. John.


Look 4 includes the slim dress in red wool jersey matched with the boxy jacket worked in faux Persian lamb. To pull this off, you'd have to make this from a high quality faux fur - not the cheap stuff that is used to make stuffed animals available at your local big chain fabric store. Donna Salyer's Fabulous Furs sells the most incredible faux fur fabrics that look and feel like the real thing. Expensive, but worth every penny if you don't want to wear real fur. The jacket shown requires 1 3/4 yds in a With Nap layout.

Finally, look 5 consists of the slim dress worked in gold silk brocade. A beautiful fabric cut with the utmost simplicity is always in fashion. How did she make a belt to match? You can buy belting that you cover with your fabric, both online and at your local fabric store. Add a buckle and you're done! I love the idea of wearing a large rhinestone brooch on the belt, but to the side of the buckle.

Go.....Sew!

Vintage Vogue Pattern 196

The October 1959 issue of Ladies Home Journal magazine did a feature about 5 different outfits you could make from one pattern, namely Vogue Design No. 196. This pattern features two dresses, one with a straight skirt and one with a pleated skirt. It also features 3 different jackets. There are an infinite number of ways you could combine these pieces, and the magazine shows 5.

The first version uses the pleated dress and the short bolero jacket. The dress is made of plaid wool and the jacket of blue velveteen with brass buttons. The outfit is worn with a wide belt, a brooch pinned near the waist of the jacket, a navy hat and white gloves. And yes, that is Jane Fonda, who was also featured on the cover of this magazine, which I showed on Saturday. She does not receive credit by name anywhere in the magazine, but you can't mistake those eyes!

Fonda was 21 when these photos were taken. She had a very brief career as a model while studying acting with Lee Strasberg at the Actors Studio. It is reported that she used the money from modeling to pay for those acting lessons. She was featured on the cover of Vogue magazine twice. By 1960, Fonda had moved on to start her acting career in the film Tall Story.

More from Vogue pattern 196 tomorrow!

Weekend Eye Candy - And a Quiz

Do you recognize this model on the cover of the October 1959 issue of Ladies Home Journal? Answer on Monday!

Vintage Cocktail Dress - One Last Illusion

We just have a peek of a dress in this 1949 ad for Coro Pearls, but what a peek it is! The dress, by Martini, has an off-the-shoulder neckline that reveals a glimpse of an attached red bustier that accents the decolletage. This gives the illusion that madame's racy red undergarments are showing, but it is part of the dress. I love the addition of the red hat. Just another way to entice without revealing too much.

Vintage Cocktail Dress with a Jacket

Here's another way to make an impression. This dress looks rather covered up for evening. But presto, chango:

Take off the jacket and you've got a strapless bombshell of a dress. Interesting how the buttons on the jacket match the buttons on the dress, so you have the illusion (there's that word again!) of one piece, when it is actually two.

This dress by Saks Fifth Avenue is from 1949. The ad states:

"Sheila Lynn's beautiful change-of-costume. Jacket on at the restaurant table, nude shoulders when the music begins."

Now if we only had a fancy restaurant around here that had dancing after dinner, I'd be all set. Love those strappy shoes!

Vintage Cocktail Dress - More Lace

Ooh la la, another use of Chantilly lace - this one from 1949 by Henri Bendel Young-Timers. The photo is in soft focus, so you may have difficulty making it out, but the dress is fashioned from black taffeta with the lace covering the bodice and forming the sheer cap sleeves. The scallops at the edge of the lace extend beyond the taffeta for an alluring neckline.

The dress was originally sold in brown, red, navy, and black and retailed for $69.95 (that's $634.00 today!). The model wears a black velvet bandeaux hat and a rhinestone bracelet. She carries a tiny clutch purse. This ad appeared in the November 1949 issue of Glamour magazine.

In other news, you may not know this about me, but I volunteer at the MSPCA dog shelter in Boston. Meet Lucky and Calvin.

Lucky the Chihuahua and Calvin the Cairn Terrier were surrendered to the shelter because their owners could no longer care for them. The two dogs have always been together and the shelter would like to place them together in a new home. I worked with these boys yesterday, and they are sweet as can be. If you are in the Boston area and are interested, or know someone who might be, please contact me or the Boston MSPCA.

Vintage Cocktail Dress - Another Illusion

More of that sexy lace, but this time it is hidden behind sheer black silk marquisette. The lace covers the deeply cut decolletage of pink silk satin. Another enticing illusion, don't you agree? Featured in a full page ad in the December 1957 issue of Vogue magazine.

Karen Stark was the designer for Harvey Berin and her name was found on the labels, though not in the ad shown here. Even though Stark was the designer, Berin had final say on whether a design would be produced or not. The company was known for its ultra-feminine styles.

"I like dramatic clothes for evening and uncluttered clothes for daytime. I like to use beautiful fabrics and unusual trimmings. I design for everyone - short women, tall women - but always very feminine women."

Karen Stark, 1966

Vintage Cocktail Dress - Illusion Lace and Goodbye, Mr. Blackwell

Trompe 'oeil - fool the eye.

Illusion - a deceptive appearance or unreal image.

Lace is so important for this holiday season, and I've always loved the look of 1950's illusion lace cocktail dresses. This one, by Mary Black, uses black Chantilly lace layered over flesh silk satin. The flesh satin blends with the wearer's skin to give the illusion that she is nude under the lace. Of course, nothing shows, but the dress certainly entices! From the December 1957 issue of Vogue magazine, this dress sold at high end department stores, such as Bergdorf's, I. Magnin, and Sakowitz.

Get the look with this 1950's cocktail dress by Carnival, available at our website:

In other news today, we mourn the loss of Mr. Blackwell, who was most famous for his Worst Dressed list each year. Richard Blackwell started his career as an actor, but abandoned that for fashion design in 1958. His designs were always extremely feminine and sexy. His first Worst Dressed list was issued in 1960, and included Zsa Zsa Gabor and Anna Magnani. The list brought Blackwell the celebrity he desired, and he became a favorite on the talk show circuit. He died October 19, 2008 at age 86.

Here's one of his incredibly sexy cocktail dresses, this one with an amazing rhinestone choker attached to the dress with rhinestone strands. It's available at my website, coutureallure.com. Click the picture to see the details.

Weekend Eye Candy - Rose Valois Hat

One more hat - this one by Rose Valois, Spring 1950. Have a great weekend!

P.S - Check out these beauties just added to the website:

How to Buy a Hat #5

Final tips when buying a hat:

- Wear color or florals on your head with tailored suits and coats. This brings the eye up to your face.

- When choosing a turban style, leave some hair showing at the brow, and consider letting some curls escape at the back or side. Don't hide all your hair, and don't wear a turban over long flowing locks.

And finally, if you wear glasses, choose more feminine style hats, but avoid veils, which can get tangled in your frames.

I hope you've enjoyed this series on how to buy a hat. Now go! Make the world a more beautiful place! Wear a hat!

Hats available at Couture Allure. Click the pictures for more info:

A 1960's Mod era studded dome by Frank Olive:

A 1960's brown satin turban by Christian Dior:

A 1960's wide brimmed Breton by Lily Dache:

How to Buy a Hat #4

Tip #4 when buying a hat:

"Try to buy your hat for a specific costume or wardrobe. And when you are buying it, try to have the costume either on, at at least with you. The hat that sits in your closet is the hat that you can't afford. Charm is reason enough for buying a hat, but if it can make itself socially agreeable to your clothes - so much the better!"

Again, this rule applies to all accessory purchases. You may love it, but does it work with the rest of your wardrobe? It is better to buy one hat that you can wear with multiple outfits, than to buy one hat and then have to buy a new outfit to go with it.

As an example, the wonderful gold sweater with matching turban above by Florence Reichman makes a stylish set. But can she really wear the turban with other items in her wardrobe? Probably not.

How much more practical and versatile are these fedoras from Dobbs? Still fashionable, yet they would probably work with many more items hanging in your closet.

How to Buy a Hat #3

Tip #3 when buying a hat:

"Always look at the back view of your tentative hat. Sometimes, wide 'sustaining' bands will spoil the look of your hair; streamers can look ridiculous; and sometimes a dreamy sweep of straw will crumble into a linear apology in the back. Be stringent. Never buy a hat that is becoming from only one angle."

Just as you would check the back and side views if you were buying a dress, you should check those views when buying a hat.

The hat above is a white felt postilion by Dobbs, from January 1941.

What's a sustaining band? Many hats from the late 30's into the 40's were worn tipped forward over the brow and needed a band slipped over the back of the head to hold them in place. Often times, it was just a thin elastic cord, but I've also seen many with thicker bands like this.

How to Buy a Hat #2

Tip #2 when buying a hat:

"Always stand up when you are buying a hat. Many's the lady who, framed in the little square mirror, looks charmingly proportioned, only to find, when she rises that she looks either pinheaded, or top-heavy. Never buy a hat the day you are experimenting with a new coiffure. You'll end up throwing them both away!"

Good advice, and one I would suggest when buying jewelry or belts too. It's important to see how your accessories look when compared to your entire body in a full length mirror. And take dramatic changes in small steps. If you're not used to wearing a hat, be sure it works with your current hair style before buying.

The hat above features red roses on a black and white striped base with an alluring spotted siren veil. By Walter Florell, January 1941.

How to Buy a Hat #1

Vogue magazine's January 15, 1941 issue was all about hats, hats, and more hats. This week, I'll feature their tips for how to buy a hat. After all, "no hat is worth buying unless it makes you look prettier than you ever looked before. No woman can really explain why she buys a hat anyway. She just feels a great big urge to set something pretty on her head. All she really knows is that the 'something pretty' has a delicious psychological effect, and buying it is always a kind of spiritual adventure. Hats are emotional stuff..."

In this day and age, it's hard to find hats in stores, unless you're shopping for vintage. But have you ever tried on hats? There is something about them that does make a woman feel different, and believe me, if you wear one you will get noticed! I wear a hat sometimes when I go out, and I always get a positive comment or two. Modern designers have been showing hats on the runways for the past two seasons, so it's time to go buy a hat! Here's how:

"1. Always buy a hat as if it were the only one you'll have. That doesn't mean it must be a stern-brimmed pull-on. It merely means that it must be thoroughly in tune with you at your most attractive. Don't be above getting a touch cosmic about your hat-of asking 'But is it ME?'"

Above, a classic swagger hat in white felt with a snap brim bound in navy grosgrain with a band and bow in the same. By Knox.

In other news, congratulations to Mistress Meeyee, who is the winner of the 1950's scottie dog top!

Weekend Eye Candy - Balenciaga

I am in love.

Grey wool jersey dress by Balenciaga from Spring 1950.

How to Dress Up a Basic Vintage Sheath Dress

We all need at least one in our closet - a basic sheath dress.

Sheath: 1. Straight, narrow fitted dress usually with no waistline but shaped to body by vertical darts, or with set-in waistline. Ease of skirt obtained by inverted pleats at sides or center back. 2. Tight-fitting dress with regular waistline seam or set-in waistline and sheath skirt that is very narrow at hem and slashed at back to facilitate walking.

This dress by Jonathan Logan and sold by Lord & Taylor was made in wool flannel. It sold in 1955 for $17.95 ($144.40 today).

How do you take a basic sheath and make it noticeable? Accessorize! Add a wide belt at the waist and a statement necklace as shown here, and you've got a timeless look. In fact, take away those gloves and this photo could be in any current fashion magazine!

Don't forget to sign up for our Giveaway! The contest closes tomorrow, Saturday, October 11.

Vintage Sweaters - Dalton Cashmere and Mitin Mothproofing

Dalton Cashmeres was founded in 1951 in Willoughby, Ohio. They were soon known for their high quality cashmere sweaters, which are still sought after today by lovers of vintage clothing. Dalton also made co-ordinating separates, such as skirts, pants, and blouses.

This ad for Dalton Cashmeres appeared in the August 1956 issue of Glamour magazine. "Forward and aft views of Sandra, turtleneck triumph with a rib-bib in 100% imported cashmere, magnificently mated wtih Dalton's own superb skirt of doeskin flannel, or Stroock's pure cashmere or cashmere blend."

This sweater is one piece that looks like two, with the squared off faux opening that accents the ribbed turtleneck. It has 3/4 sleeves and buttons up the back. They've shown it tucked in or out, and given the option of two skirts, one in wool and one in cashmere.

In tiny letters at the bottom of the ad it says, "All Dalton Sweaters and Skirts are durably moth-proofed my Mitin."

I've never heard of Mitin, so I did some research. Mitin FF is a pesticide that works by killing the moth larvae when they ingest and digest the wool protein, which means if you do ever get moths in your closet, they won't be able to do a lot of damage. The chemical is added to the yarn in the dye bath at the same time as any coloring that is being added to the yarn. The mothproofing agent adheres to the yarn in a similar way as the dye does. Mitin FF is relatively harmless if not ingested, and has been used as a pesticide in the United States since 1948 exclusively by the textile industry for mothproofing wool. Laboratory tests have found the chemical to be "low to moderately toxic" and to have "low mammalian toxicity." The use of Mitin FF was outlawed in the UK in 1994 due to environmental concerns about the chemicals present when the dyebaths are disposed of.

Want to read more? Here is the EPA documentation about Mitin FF.

And to learn more about how to store your woolens safely without the use of chemicals, check out About.com's page about storing wool.

Vintage Dresses - in Black Velvet

I love the waist detail of this dress from 1956. 4 rows of satin cording with bows visually accent the tiny waist compared to the flare of the hips and bust. This dress was featured in the August 1956 issue of Glamour magazine and shows St. Louis debutante Jean Hamilton wearing a dress by Doris Dodson Juniors. The dress was about $18 in 1956 ($142 today). She wears a Therese Ahrens bandeaux hat and carries an Ingber purse.

You'll see the same waist accent in this early 60's velvet cocktail dress available at www.coutureallure.com. No bows, but this one's got the added allure of a large satin rose set off to the side. Click the picture to see the details.

Vintage Dresses - In Red!

Red is the color of fire and blood, and is a very emotionally intense color. This is why it is associated with passion, desire, and love. Studies show that red can have a physical effect, increasing the rate of respiration and raising blood pressure. Wear red when you want to stand out from the crowd and be noticed.

The two dresses shown above, from 1955, are perfect examples of how to get noticed in a sea of black cocktail dresses during the holiday party season. Do you dare?

Get the look with this 1950's red taffeta bubble hem dress, just listed on our website! Click the picture to see the details.

Full skirts not your style? How about this body conscious early 60's evening gown, also available at our website. Click the picture to see the listing.

If allover red is too much for your taste, add a pop of color with your accessories. This 1940's Holzman box purse is just the thing. Available at our website. Click the picture to see the details.

There are lots of red options at www.coutureallure.com. It's time to add some passion to your wardrobe!

The First Ever Couture Allure Giveaway!

Thanks for your interest! This Giveaway is now closed.


Who doesn't love Scottie dogs? This cute little knit top by Karoll's Scottie dates to the late 1950's, and is a perfect layering piece for fall. In charcoal grey knit that probably has some wool content, it's got a polo neckline and 3/4 sleeves. Measures 36" at the bust, unstretched and 23" long from shoulder to hem. There is one tiny pinhead size hole at the center back. I laundered it, and it washed beautifully.

The Scottie dog applique on the chest is kind of odd, but hey! It's a free vintage top! To win this top, leave a comment on today's post. Any comment will do, but please make sure I can reach you through your profile. And if you have a website or blog, mention my giveaway with a link, and I'll enter your name in the giveaway twice. Just drop me an email and let me know! This giveaway ends on Saturday, October 11, and we'll announce the winner next Monday, October 13.

In other news, the Couture Allure Blog was chosen for inclusion at Alltop - Top Fashion News, a collection of the best websites and blogs about fashion. We're honored. Thanks, Alltop!

And back to Pendleton 49'ers. My friend and colleague, Maggie, over at Denisebrain has done a follow-up post to mine on her blog about this versatile addition to your wardrobe. I love the way she added red gloves to this look, and you can see many more 49'ers by checking out her post.

By the way, Pendleton developed the 49'er in 1949 (surprise!) when they found that women were buying and wearing Pendleton's men's shirts as jackets. It was the first item of women's clothing they ever manufactured.

And on a final note - it's getting colder here in Boston. We finally caved last night and turned on the furnace to begin what could be a very scary and expensive heating season, as we heat our old Victorian home with fuel oil. That's as good a reason as any for a sale! Take 15% off any purchase at www.coutureallure.com until Friday, October 10. You'll have to email me before buying for a price adjustment, as my silly shopping cart does not have a discount feature at this time.

My Pendleton 49'er

I pulled out my Pendleton 49'er to show you. I usually wear it with a vintage brooch, and I'd forgotten about this one! I added a belt, and realize I really like the look. It looks like one of the pocket flaps is slipped inside the pocket - that's what I get for taking photos on a Friday afternoon. Hmmm, let's just say that's another advantage to a 49'er. If you don't want to draw attention to your hips, you can slip those pocket flaps inside, and because of the welt, it still looks great.

Send me a pic of your 49'er and I'll post them here next week!

Pendleton 49er Jacket with Pairables

One of my favorite vintage pieces in my closet is my classic Pendleton 49'er jacket from the 1950's. It looks just like this one, but in a different plaid. This ad, from the September 1955 issue of Seventeen magazine, shows all the various pieces Pendleton made to co-ordinate with their 49'er jackets.

"College cheers for Pendleton's beautiful Dress Black Watch tartan...in the loveliest woolens ever to leave the loom! Here it joins two famous Pairables, 49'er jacket with Pleatmaster skirt...and so you can keep your whole wardrobe in the clan...see how it spans Pendleton's trews, walkers, and wonderful new Sweater-Jacket, too!"

Trews: Close-fitting trousers, usually of tartan. Variant of trouser. - That's a new one on me!

So, pair your 49'er with the skirt, the trews, or the walking shorts. Or pair the sweater-jacket with the skirt, the trews, or the walking shorts. For me, that's a bit too much plaid at one time. I always pair my 49'er with solids, and would do the same with all of these separates. I do love how the 49'er is belted here, though, and may try that one of these days.

The 49'er was $19.95 in 1955 ($160 today). The Pleatmaster skirt was $14.95 in 1955 ($120 today).

1951 Weathervane Suit

Yesterday, a reader asked on what occasions a women in the 50's would wear such finely tailored suits. You can see my answer in the comments from yesterday's post, but here is another use - travel.

This is an ad for BOAC, British Overseas Airways Corporation. They show a stylish woman in a "Weathervane suit...designed for sophisticated travelers. Setting...the handsomely appointed Sky Lounge of BOAC's luxury flight, The Monarch. Double-Decker Stratocruisers exclusively, daily service. So many extras-yet no extra fare!"

The first time I flew, I was 5 years old. My parents were moving the family to a new location. They both wore suits, and my sisters and I were all in dresses. My how times have changed.

1951 Lilli Ann Suit

What's not to love about a Lilli Ann suit? And this one from 1951 is one of the best I've seen. The designer has taken a wool gabardine with a woven stripe at one edge and cut the various pieces of the jacket to showcase the stripes. One sleeve has the stripes across the cap, exactly matching the stripe going across the yoke of the body. The stripe is found on one side of the collar, but not the other. And just so the whole thing looks balanced, a long vertical stripe is appliqued down the opposite side. Genius! This suit sold for $90 in 1951, which equals about $750 today.

Lilli Ann suits are a perennial favorite with vintage fashion afficianados, and this one is available at our website. Here the brown velveteen of the collar is echoed in the sleeve cuffs and velveteen piping edges the slits at the jacket hem. This one is in a larger size, too! Click the picture to see the listing.