Teal Traina Suit - 1966

Here's another good example of a fashion trying to bridge the gap between classic clients and the newer Mod looks for the younger generation in 1966.  Venerable old New England department store Jordan Marsh placed this full page ad in Harper's Bazaar.  The dinner suit by Teal Traina is made from a fabulous brocade with a large scale pattern and has a shorter skirt length to appeal to the younger woman.  The choice of the dark tights, gloves and helmet hat are trying to appeal to the Teal Traina and Jordan Marsh client of the past.  What you end up with is a muddled mess.  For this to work, the model should be wearing silver sparkle hosiery, no hat, no gloves and big hair.  It's too bad, as that suit is GORGEOUS!!!!!  Suit sold for $250 in 1966 (about $1836 in today's dollar.)

Photo from a full page ad for Jordan Marsh appearing in Harper's Bazaar, 1966.  No credit given.

Monte-Sano and Pruzan Suit, 1966

Monte-Sano and Pruzan was a high-end maker of tailored suits and coats based in New York.  For the Fall of 1966, they embrace the Mod era with a marvelous wool check enhanced with gold lurex threads for sparkle.  The knee-grazing length of the skirt would still appeal to the company's classic clients by being just mini enough, as would the appearance of the gloves in the photo.  Remember though, most women had abandoned wearing gloves by this time.  There is no notation of who made the shoes, but aren't they wonderful?

Photo by John Engstead for I. Magnin, appeared in Harper's Bazaaar,1966

Jo Copeland Suit - 1943

After being in a box for the last 6 months, I finally unearthed my scanner and I have all my vintage fashion magazines out of storage.  Yay!

How I wish this image were in color, but Harper's Bazaar and all magazines were judicious with full color pages at this time, especially during the war years.  This fabulous suit is by Jo Copeland for Patullo.  The jacket is a blue, white and yellow check, the skirt is navy blue and the blouse is yellow rayon crepe. I really like that buckle at the waist.

The model?  None other than Lauren Bacall.

Photo by George Hoyningen-Huene for Harper's Bazaar, 1943.

Zelinka Matlick Suit Two Ways, 1956

Zelinka Matlick was one of America's best suit and coat manufacturers based on New York's Seventh Avenue.  Back in the day, every woman had a serviceable suit in her wardrobe to wear whenever it was called for....travel, a day in the city, a meeting with a professional, and so forth.  Women would purchase a basic suit and wear it for years. 

This suit from 1956 is even more versatile because it has a sweet little cape that can be worn or not for two different looks.  And the best part?  The cape is lined in polka dots!  Swoon!  This Zelinka Matlick suit sold for $110 in 1956 (about $929 in today's dollar.)

Weekend Eye Candy: Chanel Suit, 1965

Stunning Chanel evening suit from 1965.  White silk cloque is used to great effect here.  Note how the asymmetric closure of the white satin blouse lines up with the wrap front of the skirt.  My favorite thing, though, is the huge pearl cross which gives this all white ensemble just the edge it needs.

Ben Zuckerman Suit, 1954

My life is feeling rather out of control lately.  If you follow Couture Allure on Facebook, you know I've been hard at work on a kitchen remodel which seems to have taken over the entire house and has required most of my concentration and energy of late.  When circumstances make you feel a bit bashed about, nothing says "I am in control," or "I can do anything," more than a vintage suit.  Take this example from 1954 by Ben Zuckerman, master New York coat and suit maker.  Doesn't she appear capable of handling any of life's slings and arrows?  You bet.  Crimson tweed suit worn with a bright red silk scarf tucked into the neckline.  Sold in 1954 for $200 (about $1,720 in today's dollar.)

Want to see more by Ben Zuckerman?  Go take a look at Louise's blog, Vintage Ben Zuckerman.

Photo by Derujinsky.

Dan Millstein Suit - 1954

Dan Millstein, Inc. was a high end suit and coat manufacturer in New York which first became successful during WWII when the company made civil service and civilian uniforms for the US government. After the war, Mr. Millstein was one of the first manufacturers to visit Paris, where he began to work with Christian Dior and Pierre Cardin. He would purchase items from these designers, bring them back to New York, and make copies for the American market with the designers' approval. Later, he would attend the shows with the buyers from Lord & Taylor, who would advise him as to which garments to buy to make copies for their stores.

During the 50s and early 60s, Millstein (and others) would pay a cover charge of several thousand dollars to attend the couture showings in Paris with the understanding that he would purchase several of the samples. His designers would sit in the front row making sketches of the garments as they came down the runway. Calvin Klein got his start in the business by sketching for Dan Millstein.

The above ad for Miron brand wool from 1954 shows a Dan Millstein suit in wool tweed accented with black velvet at the collar and pockets.  The black velvet hat is by Mr. John. 

Weekend Eye Candy - Christian Dior Suit, 1950

Who needs a handbag when you've got pockets like these?  Christian Dior gray wool suit, Fall 1950.

White Wool by Christian Dior - 1955

For Fall 1955, Christian Dior showed this gorgeous suit in white wool.  The fitted skirt and bolero jacket are topped by a little swing coat.  He pairs the suit with a black satin top, black gloves and sparkling jewelery.  I love the idea of wearing a large brooch at the hip.  What about you?

Larry Aldrich Cocktail Suit - 1949

The cocktail suit - another fashion staple from the past that has disappeared from modern life.  This beauty by Larry Aldrich, from the spring of 1949, has a long slender skirt that hits right above the ankle.  It is fashioned from jacquard twill that has a subtle gleam to it.  A dramatic hat is just the right accessory, don't you think?  Larry Aldrich suit sold for $70 in 1949 (about $677 in today's dollar.)

Jane Derby Suit - 1959

Oh, little suit from 1959, how do I love thee?  Let me count the ways.

1.  Your classic houndstooth check pattern in brown, black and white can be worn anywhere.
2.  The self fringed edges at the jacket opening, neckline and sleeve cuffs add just the right amount of whimsy.
3.  You're a dress, not a top and skirt.  No constant tucking throughout the day.
4.  Big buttons and a brown leather belt add interest and break up the checked pattern.
5.  How could one not love an outfit designed by Jane Derby, designer of high-end ready-to-wear.  The quality of construction is surely superb!

Let us also pay homage to the large leather travel bag by Mark Cross.  I'd carry it as a tote today.....everywhere.

The Perfect Suit, 1953

Perfect from head to toe.  Note how she lets her suit be the star by using a smaller handbag and hat.  Look how the buttons elongate the figure from the waist to the hem of the skirt.  And I'll bet there are hidden hooks or buttons to close that collar if you want to.  Note the perfect eyebrows and simple makeup.  And don't forget  your gloves.  To get the look today, use animal printed fabric or faux fur please.  Suit by Raphael, 1953.

Weekend Eye Candy - Gilbert Adrian Suit

Just look at the geometric precision used in constructing this 1940s suit by Gilbert Adrian! A simple stripe fabric is cut and resewn at various angles. Each of the stripes is precisely matched in an intricate marvel of design. I am in love.

Couture Allure on Stage

I recently sold this vintage 1940s tweed suit to the Pearl Theatre Company in New York. I contacted the costume shop manager, Niki Hernandez-Adams, to find out if my suit would be appearing on stage. The answer is yes!

The Pearl Theatre Company is the premier Off-Broadway classical repertory theatre group in New York. They have a resident company that performs classic plays of all periods. This 1940s suit will be appearing in "The Subject Was Roses" by Frank D. Gilroy from April 9 - May 9, 2010 at the New York City Center. To purchase tickets, go to the City Center's website.

If you do go, take a picture of the suit for me, would you? It will now be more famous than I am!

Weekend Eye Candy - 1961 Bill Blass Suit

Bill Blass for Maurice Rentner paisley cotton dress and jacket sold for $185.00 (about $1350.00 in today's dollar). Worn with a Lilly Daché hat, Kislav gloves, and an Eisenberg pin. The lap dog - priceless.

Dress Up a Vintage Suit

I really, really like this idea. Shown here is a basic suit from 1960. Probably in navy or black, it has a waist-length jacket with 3/4 sleeves and a straight skirt. Rather ho-hum if worn on its own. Look what happens, though, when you add a bit of femininity with a printed blouse! Take a blouse that has a bow tie at the neck and fuller long sleeves. Pull the bow out on top of the jacket and puff the blouse sleeves below the jacket cuff. Su-weet!

Weekend Eye Candy - 1955 Lilli Ann Suit

We can't have a week of suits without showing a design by the incomparable Lilli Ann. This one is from 1955.

What's So Great About a 1940's Suit?

It's all in the details - details you won't find in suits off the rack today. But in the 1940's, a woman could walk into any fine department store or boutique and find styles like this. And she could have the suit altered to fit by the in-store staff!

Click on the picture above to get a larger view and take a look at the details of this red suit made of Miron red wool gabardine. It's got a double collar rather than a simple lapel. The hip pockets have extra room built in, not only for your hands, but to accentuate the waist appear tiny. Not only is the waist shaped by the side seam, but 4 darts disappear into the huge pocket. That's 8 darts total on the front and there are probably at least 4 on the back. Now, go take a look at your favorite suit jacket. How many darts did you find? Probably 4 at the most.

You'll find two-tone effects in many suits from the 40's. This one takes the darker color of the skirt and uses it for contrasting trim at the collar, sleeve cuffs, pockets, and buttons on the jacket. Have you ever seen a fabric covered button that uses not one, but two fabrics?

1940's suits often have unusual pocket treatments. This one has a pretty curved flap accented with a button. Does your modern suit jacket even have pockets?

Why don't modern suits have great details like these? Money. It takes skilled seamstresses much more time to sew this intricately. It also takes more fabric to make a suit fit well with darts, to add contrasting trims, and to add interesting details. A suit like this would be cost prohibitive to the average woman today. But these wonderful suits from the 1940's were made so well, many still survive today. So, yes, you can still get high quality at a great price. Wear vintage!

January 3 - Steal of a Deal

Today's deal is this gorgeous Vintage 40's Herringbone Skirt Suit. Original price - $145.00. 50% off today only - $72.50.

Pendleton 49er Jacket with Pairables

One of my favorite vintage pieces in my closet is my classic Pendleton 49'er jacket from the 1950's. It looks just like this one, but in a different plaid. This ad, from the September 1955 issue of Seventeen magazine, shows all the various pieces Pendleton made to co-ordinate with their 49'er jackets.

"College cheers for Pendleton's beautiful Dress Black Watch tartan...in the loveliest woolens ever to leave the loom! Here it joins two famous Pairables, 49'er jacket with Pleatmaster skirt...and so you can keep your whole wardrobe in the clan...see how it spans Pendleton's trews, walkers, and wonderful new Sweater-Jacket, too!"

Trews: Close-fitting trousers, usually of tartan. Variant of trouser. - That's a new one on me!

So, pair your 49'er with the skirt, the trews, or the walking shorts. Or pair the sweater-jacket with the skirt, the trews, or the walking shorts. For me, that's a bit too much plaid at one time. I always pair my 49'er with solids, and would do the same with all of these separates. I do love how the 49'er is belted here, though, and may try that one of these days.

The 49'er was $19.95 in 1955 ($160 today). The Pleatmaster skirt was $14.95 in 1955 ($120 today).