Weekend Eye Candy - Mathilde Geral, 1939

Mathilde Geral.  I'd never heard of this French couture house and in doing research, I can only find mention of the designer in 1938 and 1939. The house was located on the Place Vendome in Paris.  Since Paris was occupied by the Germans staring in 1940, one can only guess what happened to the designer.  Geral's business did not survive the war.  I know nothing else, but if anyone out there can provide more information, please do so in the comments.

This stunning one shoulder gown from 1939 has a huge silk tulle skirt accented with velvet petals and a large silk tulle flower at the neckline. 

Photo by George Saad for L'Art et la Mode, 1939.

Before They Were on the Ed Sullivan Show

Diana Vreeland famously became an authority on people and places that were happening in her "People are Talking About..." column in Vogue magazine.  Before The Beatles appeared on "The Ed Sullivan Show" 50 years ago today, they were featured in Vreeland's column in the January 1, 1964 issue of Vogue.  This full page portrait was taken by London writer and photographer Peter Laurie.  The band had just played a gig in Northampton and the flowers were collected from the stage where young female fans had thrown them.  It was the first portrait of The Beatles published in an American magazine...a full month before they were on Ed Sullivan.

Dan River Stripes - 1948

If you are buried under ice and snow, this image should warm you up a bit.  From 1948, Ciro's swim suit and companion dress, both made from Dan River Dantone combed cotton in a woven stripe.  All pieces came in black stripes on yellow, pink or aqua.  Look how perfectly those stripes are matched at the center front of the skirt!

Read more about Dan River here.  It's a sad story.

Photo from a full page ad that appeared in Mademoiselle, 1948.

Polka Dots - 1949

 Polka dots and pretty prints were popular for dresses in 1949.  Skirts were fuller and longer, but not as poofy as we would see in a few short years.  I love the graceful femininity of these beauties.

Above: Townfield dress of polka dotted rayon surah.

Triple tiered flounces make this dress by Marcy Lee.  Made of rayon crepe in gray, brown, navy or red, all with white polka dots.

If you love to wear polka dots, don't miss this post of mine from 2009 with tips for doing just that!

Roxanne Swimsuit - 1964

Who says you need a teeny bikini or a skin tight swimsuit to be sexy?  The blouson bodice was all the rage in 1964.  Here, Roxanne Swimsuits translates that fashion trend into a smoldering hot swimsuit in nylon.  That blouson outer layer floats over a fitted lining and the sash tie adds just the right touch. 

Nelly de Grab - 1955

In 1955, Nelly de Grab joined forces with Peck and Peck and Everglaze cottons to produce this 3 page advertising spread for the pretty blouses and skirts made by the company.  For more information about Nelly de Grab, please see my biographical post about the company here.

Stripes and flowers mix in this blouse and skirt, available in turquoise or pink polished cotton. 

Wallpaper rose print combined with panels of solid cotton, available in royal blue or gray with whtie.

Solid cotton blouse is black or chartreuse combined with a full skirt in brown with black and gold print or navy with chartreuse and white print.

All photos from full page advertisements for Nelly de Grab, 1955.

Weekend Eye Candy - Jean Desses, 1953

I am in love with everything about this image.  The dress, yes of course.  But note how the model's hair is pulled back tightly to the head.  She wears large dangling earrings and no other jewelry.  The rolled neckline accents the scoop that exposes just enough, but not too much.  Evening dress by Jean Desses, 1953.

Pretty in Pink - 1955

This pretty pink confection of a dress is my idea of perfection.  The neckline is adorned with pink flowers that coordinate with the cotton print.  Dress by Perullo of David Hart, summer 1955.

Photo from a full page ad for Signature Fine Art Fabrics, 1955.

Fashion Lesson From the War Years - 1943

1943.  The world is enmeshed in war.  There's not a lot of money for new clothes.  It's the age of "make-do and mend."  The smart woman makes a fashion statement with what she has, combining her clothing in new and different ways, perhaps buying just a new red belt or gloves to co-ordinate with the black and white check dress she already owns.  She piles on all the bracelets she can find and makes it work....with great success.

Can you make do today?  Do you really need something new to make a fashion statement?  Reach for an old favorite in your closet and combine it in a new way with accessories you already own.  Don't spend your money on fast fashion garments that will fall apart, fade, shrink and pill.  The vintage in your closet has stood the test of time.  It was made with far better fabrics and construction techniques than anything you can purchase today. 

Wear a classic.  Wear vintage.

Photo by Louise Dahl-Wolfe for Harper's Bazaar, 1943.

Weekend Eye Candy - Gilbert Orcel, 1952

Gorgeous gray hat by French milliner Gilbert Orcel for spring 1952.  Insert smile here.

Dior Sundress - 1954

I usually think of opulent and magnificent ballgowns and cocktail dresses when vintage Dior comes to mind, but the house did cute cotton sundresses too, as evidenced by this photo from 1954.

Photo from L'Officiel, 1954.

Stripes for Spring - 1955

There's nothing quite like the look of a tiny bolero jacket over a fitted dress.  This set by Minx Modes from 1955 features a cotton stripe jacket in beige, olive and white over a beige rayon dress. Set sold for $18 in 1955 (about $156 in today's dollar.)

Photo by Derujinsky for Harper's Bazaar, 1955.

Donald Brooks for Sinclair - 1970

Sinclair Mills was a swimsuit manufacturer.  Over the years, they contracted with several big name designers to produce lines of swimwear.  In the early 60s, Tom Brigance worked for them.  Donald Brooks produced designs for Sinclair in the late 1960s and early 70s, and Giorgio Sant'Angelo followed him starting in 1975.

This bikini with matching maxi skirt was designed by Donald Brooks for Sinclair in 1970.  The halter top has very long strings that tie at the back of the neck and then wrap around and around, however you choose.  The maxi skirt can be worn at the waist, the hips, or even over the shoulders when you've had enough sun.  All in black nylon.  Sold for $95 in 1970 (about $571 in today's dollar.)

Photo by Bergstrom for Vogue, 1970.
Model, Lynn Sutherland

Dior and Crystal - 1958

Another image in the series Gleb Derujinsky did with crystal chandeliers for Harper's Bazaar in 1958.  The model wears a black satin and velvet cocktail dress with coat by Christian Dior - New York and a head hugging cocktail hat by the same designer.  I like the addition of the mirror in this shot.

Photo by Gleb Derujinsky for Harper's Bazaar, 1958
Fashion editory, Diana Vreeland

Brocade and Crystal - 1958

Yesterday, I showed you a beautiful image taken by Gleb Derujinsky in 1958.  Here is another in the same series.  I'd really love to see behind the scenes shots of Derujinsky setting up the lighting and the placement of the models for these photos.  As you'll see, each is very different.  More tomorrow!

The white silk brocade dress is by Mollie Parnis.  Interesting shape to that armhole.  Dress sold for $145 in 1958 (about $1,169 in today's dollar.)  Hat by Irene of New York.

Photo by Gleb Derujinsky for Harper's Bazaar, 1958.
Fashion editor, Diana Vreeland.

Black and Crystal - 1958

I adore crystal and sparkle, which is why I adore this image.  In the fall of 1958, Gleb Derujinsky chose to photograph several evening looks amidst a plethora of crystal chandeliers for Harper's Bazaar.  I'll be showing you several of these images this week.

Take a closer look at this voluminous evening coat by Anita Modes.  While this coat may have looked a bit too much in a solid fabric, it is perfect in black lace that allows the slender black taffeta cocktail dress underneath to peek through.  The gathered pouf at the hem of the coat is in the same taffeta as the dress.  Quite striking!  Pose that black in the center of all the crystal and you have perfection!

Photo by Gleb Derujinsky for Harper's Bazaar, 1958.
Fashion editor, Diana Vreeland.

Weekend Eye Candy - Pauline Trigere, 1973

 My post about Pauline Trigere yesterday brought up this image of a Trigere gown from the Fall of 1973.  Memories!

I sold the identical gown several years ago on my Couture Allure site.  It was a stunner!

Photo by Richard Avedon for Vogue, 1973.

Pauline Trigere Dress - 1970

If I had come across this outfit in my travels, I would have dated it to the mid-to-late 70s.  It is my experience that these handkerchief hems and floaty capes are more Disco than Boho.  But I would have been wrong, wrong, wrong.  This full page ad for Nan Duskin that features the Pauline Trigere ensemble is from the spring of 1970.  Still learning after all these years!

 Here's a very similar ensemble by Trigere in the collection of the Met Museum.  This one is dated 1971.

Full page ad for Nan Duskin from Vogue, 1970. Illustration by Duffy.

Photography by Gleb Derujinsky

Yesterday I showed you a marvelous photo by Gleb Derujinsky from 1954.  In looking at some of his other work online, I found that he often had a wonderfully quirky point of view and used surprising juxtapositions of high fashion mixed with everyday or even strange objects.  Above, the model, Gleb's wife Ruth, is wearing a Rose Marie Reid swimsuit while perching atop a dinosaur replica in 1960.

2 models wearing Pierre Cardin dresses pose with a French woman holding baguettes and a poodle with an injured leg.  Photo from 1958.

Models wear dresses by Norman Norell and hats by Halston in a French stairwell, 1961.

Model poses at the early morning fish market in France, 1957.

Model with harp, 1951.

All photos by Gleb Derujinsky for Harper's Bazaar.

Paul Parnes Suit - 1954

Photographer Gleb Derujinsky worked as a fashion photographer for Harper's Bazaar in the 1950s and 60s.  In 1954, he was given an assignment to photograph tweed suits for an editorial spread.  His inspiration was to pose the models in front of the polished granite of a New York building.  The tweed juxtaposed with the granite gives interesting texture to all the photos.  Shown here is the best one of the bunch.

Paul Parnes designed this tweed suit.  The jacket is edged and decorated with black braid and the decorative gold buttons add just the right touch at the unusual closure.  Suit sold for $145 in 1954 (about $1,265 in today's dollar.)  Hat by Emme (and likely designed by Adolfo.)

Gleb Derujinsky and his wife died in a tragic car accident in their home town of Durango, Colorado in 2011.

Photo by Gleb Derujinsky for Harper's Bazaar, 1954.