AND...Couture Allure has been voted as one of Lulu's Top 10 Vintage Clothing Websites! Thank you, Lulu!!!
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
News Flash!
I am pleased and honored to announce that Couture Allure has been voted one of the People's Choice Top 10 Vintage Clothing Websites over at Lulu's Vintage! Thank you to everyone who voted!
AND...Couture Allure has been voted as one of Lulu's Top 10 Vintage Clothing Websites! Thank you, Lulu!!!
AND...Couture Allure has been voted as one of Lulu's Top 10 Vintage Clothing Websites! Thank you, Lulu!!!
June 30 Steal of a Deal
Our final Steal of a Deal is this gorgeous 1940's pink linen dress with peplum jacket. Original price - $245.00. Today only, steal it at 50% off - $122.50.
The Correct Foundation Garments to Wear Under Your Vintage Dresses #2
Dear readers - I am feeling rather blah with a nasty head cold. This week, I will be republishing one of my most popular series regarding the correct foundation garments to wear with vintage dresses. This series still gets hits on a weekly basis, so I thought it would be useful to publish it again.
Continuing the series on the correct foundation garments, today we have two party dresses from 1958. The focus on today's spread is the tiny waist needed with fuller skirts. "Take a look at the luscious, jewel-toned dresses. See how their sculptured bodices and dome-shaped skirts show off your middle? They call, obviously, for a trim mid-section of your own."
The green satin dress on the left is a "princess sculptured" dress with self-fabric roses at the neckline and hem by Parklane, which was offered at Franklin Simon, New York and Jordan Marsh, Boston. The dress sold for about $30 in 1958 ($225 today).
Under the green dress, the model is wearing a Formaid of Boston torso bra that molds from bosom to hips. With that, she wears a Saramac petticoat. Note that the petticoat has a flat panel from waist to hips and the long-line bra is worn over it.
The blue jacquard dress on the right has a "closely carved bodice and dome skirt that opens in a back pleat". This dress is by Carol Rodgers and sold for about $13 in 1958 ($97 today). The skirt of this dress likely has the stiff Pellon interfacing, as the model is not wearing a crinoline under it.
Under the blue dress, the model is wearing a Sarong Two nylon girdle that trims the waist with a high elastic waistband. Crisscross front with open bottom gives walking ease. Power net sides and satin elastic back. She is also wearing a Perma-lift strapless cotton contour bra.
Continuing the series on the correct foundation garments, today we have two party dresses from 1958. The focus on today's spread is the tiny waist needed with fuller skirts. "Take a look at the luscious, jewel-toned dresses. See how their sculptured bodices and dome-shaped skirts show off your middle? They call, obviously, for a trim mid-section of your own."
The green satin dress on the left is a "princess sculptured" dress with self-fabric roses at the neckline and hem by Parklane, which was offered at Franklin Simon, New York and Jordan Marsh, Boston. The dress sold for about $30 in 1958 ($225 today).
Under the green dress, the model is wearing a Formaid of Boston torso bra that molds from bosom to hips. With that, she wears a Saramac petticoat. Note that the petticoat has a flat panel from waist to hips and the long-line bra is worn over it.
The blue jacquard dress on the right has a "closely carved bodice and dome skirt that opens in a back pleat". This dress is by Carol Rodgers and sold for about $13 in 1958 ($97 today). The skirt of this dress likely has the stiff Pellon interfacing, as the model is not wearing a crinoline under it.
Under the blue dress, the model is wearing a Sarong Two nylon girdle that trims the waist with a high elastic waistband. Crisscross front with open bottom gives walking ease. Power net sides and satin elastic back. She is also wearing a Perma-lift strapless cotton contour bra.
Monday, June 29, 2009
June 29 - Steal of a Deal
Today's Steal of a Deal is this 1950's white with silver stripes full skirted dress. Original price $125.00 - Today only, steal it at 50% off - $62.50.
The Correct Foundation Garments to Wear Under Your Vintage Dresses #1
Dear readers - I am feeling rather blah with a nasty head cold. This week, I will be republishing one of my most popular series regarding the correct foundation garments to wear with vintage dresses. This series still gets hits on a weekly basis, so I thought it would be useful to publish it again.
If you've ever purchased a vintage dress and wondered why it doesn't fit correctly, maybe you're not wearing the proper foundation garments. Prior to the late 1960's, clothing was styled and cut with the understanding that women would be wearing girdles and shapers underneath. In the October 1958 Seventeen magazine, there is a wonderful editorial spread photographed by Francesco Scavullo that illustrates what type of foundation garments work best with several dress styles. I'll be featuring the photos and information from this spread this week.
The magazine is referring to these as "shaft dresses" (never heard that term before). "Newest shape for a shaft to take - the high-rise Empire waist, which looks prettiest over a softly rounded bosom, asks just supple control from there down."
The red dress is by Lanz in a lined rayon crepe. See that band across the bust? The magazine calls this a "bosom yoke" and it drops to a V-neck with a bow in the back. The dress sold for $40 in 1958 (about $298 today). The model is wearing red DeLiso Debs shoes.
Under the red dress, the model is wearing a Formfit nylon bra with circle-stitched lace cups and a Formfit nylon elastic net panty girdle with a wide waistband and satin elastic vertical stretch panels front and back.
The model on the right in the top photo is wearing a blue wool jersey "shaft dress" by Jerry Greenwald. The front is gathered into a satin band at the Empire waist. In back, the dress is slit from V neckline to hem, revealing a satin underslip. This dress also sold for about $40 and was available at Saks Fifth Avenue. That's a long, skinny brooch by Castlecliff pinned to the center of the satin band and the shoes are by Capezio.
Under the blue dress, the model is wearing a Lovable "lightweight all-in-one for a long, slim line with easy control." Made of Helance nylon yarn with embroidered cotton broadcloth cups. This appears to be an open-bottom style.
If you've ever purchased a vintage dress and wondered why it doesn't fit correctly, maybe you're not wearing the proper foundation garments. Prior to the late 1960's, clothing was styled and cut with the understanding that women would be wearing girdles and shapers underneath. In the October 1958 Seventeen magazine, there is a wonderful editorial spread photographed by Francesco Scavullo that illustrates what type of foundation garments work best with several dress styles. I'll be featuring the photos and information from this spread this week.
The magazine is referring to these as "shaft dresses" (never heard that term before). "Newest shape for a shaft to take - the high-rise Empire waist, which looks prettiest over a softly rounded bosom, asks just supple control from there down."
The red dress is by Lanz in a lined rayon crepe. See that band across the bust? The magazine calls this a "bosom yoke" and it drops to a V-neck with a bow in the back. The dress sold for $40 in 1958 (about $298 today). The model is wearing red DeLiso Debs shoes.
Under the red dress, the model is wearing a Formfit nylon bra with circle-stitched lace cups and a Formfit nylon elastic net panty girdle with a wide waistband and satin elastic vertical stretch panels front and back.
The model on the right in the top photo is wearing a blue wool jersey "shaft dress" by Jerry Greenwald. The front is gathered into a satin band at the Empire waist. In back, the dress is slit from V neckline to hem, revealing a satin underslip. This dress also sold for about $40 and was available at Saks Fifth Avenue. That's a long, skinny brooch by Castlecliff pinned to the center of the satin band and the shoes are by Capezio.
Under the blue dress, the model is wearing a Lovable "lightweight all-in-one for a long, slim line with easy control." Made of Helance nylon yarn with embroidered cotton broadcloth cups. This appears to be an open-bottom style.
Sunday, June 28, 2009
June 28 - Steal of a Deal
Today's Steal of a Deal is this vintage 1940's summer dress printed with tiny pink roses. Original price - $85.00. Today only, steal it at 50% off - $42.50.
Saturday, June 27, 2009
Weekend Eye Candy - 1907 Paul Poiret Red Dress
Poiret is right at the top of my list of favorite designers. Here, his 1907 "Eugenie" dress in red crepe de chine embroidered with gold. Tulle edged with gold braid fills the neckline for modesty. Over the dress, a 1912 evening coat in red uncut velvet lined with purple crepe de chine and edged in silver fringe. The wide collar is embroidered with braid and paste rhinestones, then edged in fur.Happy weekend everyone!
June 27 - Steal of a Deal
Today's Steal of a Deal is this vintage 1980's Geoffrey Beene dress in silk woven with silver metallic threads. Original price - $95.00. Today only, steal it at 50% off - $47.50.
Friday, June 26, 2009
June 26 - Steal of a Deal
Today's Steal of a Deal is this gorgeous vintage 1950's evening gown by Harry Keiser. Tons of tulle and a strapless petal bust! Original price - $135.00. Today only, steal it at 50% off - $67.50.
The Thriller is Gone
Yesterday, the world lost two icons. Today, I just want to share a few photos with you. Rest in peace Michael Jackson and Farrah Fawcett.
Thursday, June 25, 2009
June 25 - Steal of a Deal
Today's Steal of a Deal is this 1950's full skirted dress in black velveteen and faille. Original price $145.00 - Today only, steal it at 50% off - $72.50.
Model Lauren Bacall
Hollywood superstar Lauren Bacall was a model before she became an actress. She worked part time for Bazaar magazine while taking acting lessons. Here are some photos from the February 1943 issue of Harper's Bazaar.
Bacall poses as a woman engaged in wartime evening activities: listening to the radio while darning socks. She wears lounging pajamas in grey wool/rayon by Claire McCardell.
Bacall poses in a white crepe blouse with a ruffle at the neckline, which was available at Saks Fifth Avenue.
Bacall was lucky enough to land the cover of Bazaar the following month in March 1943. Howard Hawks's wife Nancy spotted her and urged her husband to give Bacall a screen test for his new film To Have and Have Not. Bacall's performance in that film is widely acclaimed as one of the strongest debut performances in the history of film.
Bacall poses as a woman engaged in wartime evening activities: listening to the radio while darning socks. She wears lounging pajamas in grey wool/rayon by Claire McCardell.
Bacall poses in a white crepe blouse with a ruffle at the neckline, which was available at Saks Fifth Avenue.
Bacall was lucky enough to land the cover of Bazaar the following month in March 1943. Howard Hawks's wife Nancy spotted her and urged her husband to give Bacall a screen test for his new film To Have and Have Not. Bacall's performance in that film is widely acclaimed as one of the strongest debut performances in the history of film.
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
June 24 - Steal of a Deal
Today's Steal of a Deal is this 1940's Deco print rayon dress. Love those buttons on the pockets! Original price - $95.00. Today only, steal it at 50% off - $47.50.
Vintage Swimsuits and Beach Wear - 1963
Want to play guess the designer again? Who made this cotton terrycloth beach cover-up in 1963?
Answer later.
We've met Irene Galitzine before. Her design talent brought us palazzo pants in 1960. Here, she offers a wild and wacky beach set consisting of a white knitted orlon romper with a chartreuse green and white knit oversize collar. Wild, no? So, where's the wacky?
It's in this hand-knitted cover-up cape in the same chartreuse and white orlon. The collar of the romper pops out atop the cape. It's like wearing granny's afghan to the beach! Gotta love those Italian designers!
This is one of my favorite swimsuits I've ever shown you. We've also talked about Tom Brigance before. Here, he takes black and white plaid nylon and fashions it into a two piece suit with a belt. The top has a high neck at the front that dips lower in back. Brigance for Sinclair suit sold for $25.00 in 1963 (about $178.00 in today's dollar).
Jantzen pops black and white stripes over a black bottom in Helanca nylon. Sold for $20.00 in 1963 (about $143.00 in today's dollar).
Back to that terrycloth beach cover-up at the top of this post. Did you guess it? It's Emilio Pucci. In cotton...terrycloth. I've seen plenty of his work in silk jersey. I've seen his work in velveteen. But never in terrycloth. He made a cotton bikini to match. I love it.
Answer later.
We've met Irene Galitzine before. Her design talent brought us palazzo pants in 1960. Here, she offers a wild and wacky beach set consisting of a white knitted orlon romper with a chartreuse green and white knit oversize collar. Wild, no? So, where's the wacky?
It's in this hand-knitted cover-up cape in the same chartreuse and white orlon. The collar of the romper pops out atop the cape. It's like wearing granny's afghan to the beach! Gotta love those Italian designers!
This is one of my favorite swimsuits I've ever shown you. We've also talked about Tom Brigance before. Here, he takes black and white plaid nylon and fashions it into a two piece suit with a belt. The top has a high neck at the front that dips lower in back. Brigance for Sinclair suit sold for $25.00 in 1963 (about $178.00 in today's dollar).
Jantzen pops black and white stripes over a black bottom in Helanca nylon. Sold for $20.00 in 1963 (about $143.00 in today's dollar).Back to that terrycloth beach cover-up at the top of this post. Did you guess it? It's Emilio Pucci. In cotton...terrycloth. I've seen plenty of his work in silk jersey. I've seen his work in velveteen. But never in terrycloth. He made a cotton bikini to match. I love it.
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
June 23 - Steal of a Deal
Today's Steal of a Deal is this 1950's cocktail dress by Carol Craig. Sequins add sparkle to your evening! Original price - $75.00. Today only, steal it at 50% off - $37.50.
Mondrian as Inspiration
Piet Mondrian: "Kompozicija" 1921Quick, who designed this dress?
You said Yves St. Laurent, didn't you? Sorry, wrong. This is actually a linen top and skirt by Jr. Sophisticates. The ad appeared in Vogue magazine in April of 1961. 1961?????? But St. Laurent didn't debut his own label until January of 1962!That's right, my friends. Using Mondrian as an inspiration for fashion was not the original idea of Yves St. Laurent. So, who was the designer at Jr. Sophisticates in 1961? Anne Klein, that's who. She designed an entire group of one and two piece dresses based upon the paintings of Mondrian a full 4 years before St. Laurent's versions made such a splash in Paris.
There is a major difference, though. Klein's top above looks rather blocky and square, rather shapeless. Take a look at the two St. Laurent versions below, from his Fall/Winter 1965/66 collection.
See how the dress curves in gently at the sides to define the waist?
See how there is subtle shaping at the bust? There are no darts, but the dress curves gently over this area.
You can see it better in this photo of the first dress from the collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute. Instead of piecing flat blocks of fabric and covering the seams with black binding, as it appears was done by Klein, St. Laurent has cut the blocks of color and black strips separately. But the pieces are not squares and rectangles. They actually have odd angles at the edges. The shaping of the garment that would normally be achieved with darts is all cleverly hidden in the seams where one piece joins another. And when those oddly shaped pieces are joined together, they appear as a flat grid as in Mondrian's painting.That, my friends, is couture.
For more Mondrian inspired fashion, take a look at this site, which was put together several years ago by Snap Dragon. Even Nike has produced Mondrian inspired shoes, shown here.
Written content is copyright of Couture Allure. If you are reading this anywhere but on the Couture Allure Vintage Fashion Blog, it is via RSS feed.
Monday, June 22, 2009
June 22 - Steal of a Deal
Today's Steal of a Deal is this sweet 60's cocktail dress in bubble gum pink chiffon with a back floating panel. And it a nice larger size! Original price $115.00. Today only, steal it at 50% off - $57.50.
Tailored Bias Cuts
When I say "bias cut", what probably comes to mind is sultry, clinging evening gowns from the 1930's or the 1990's. But a bias cut can be used to great effect in tailored garments as well.
Image from Threads Magazine
What is bias cut? The straight grain of a fabric, either vertical or horizontal, has no stretch, unless it is a knit or is woven with a stretch fiber such as spandex or lycra. But when you turn the pattern 45 degrees, you are cutting on the bias, which has a gentle give and allows a softer and more fluid result. Using fabric cut on the bias is challenging, as it can stretch out of shape during the sewing process, so it requires more time and care to avoid distortion of the garment.
Here are a couple of examples of tailored garments with a bias cut from 1963, both made of linen. Notice how cutting the stiff linen on the bias gives these garments more softness, shaping, and fluidity. At the same time, the weight of the fabric allows the garment to float away from the body without clinging, a plus during the heat of summer.
An overblouse dress by Norman Norell in magenta linen. The front of the overblouse is cut on the bias so it floats softly over the underdress, but contours lightly to the body. A leather sash slips through slits in the front princess seams and is tied at the waist for more definition.
This shift dress by Ben Reig is fashioned from brown linen. A front zipper is hidden behind the decorative placket. Notice how the dress floats next to the body while the bias cut of the linen allows subtle shaping.
Just added at Couture Allure, this early 60's overblouse dress by Herbert Kasper in black rayon. The overblouse is cut on the bias for fluid shaping that softens the square cut.
Image from Threads MagazineWhat is bias cut? The straight grain of a fabric, either vertical or horizontal, has no stretch, unless it is a knit or is woven with a stretch fiber such as spandex or lycra. But when you turn the pattern 45 degrees, you are cutting on the bias, which has a gentle give and allows a softer and more fluid result. Using fabric cut on the bias is challenging, as it can stretch out of shape during the sewing process, so it requires more time and care to avoid distortion of the garment.
Here are a couple of examples of tailored garments with a bias cut from 1963, both made of linen. Notice how cutting the stiff linen on the bias gives these garments more softness, shaping, and fluidity. At the same time, the weight of the fabric allows the garment to float away from the body without clinging, a plus during the heat of summer.
An overblouse dress by Norman Norell in magenta linen. The front of the overblouse is cut on the bias so it floats softly over the underdress, but contours lightly to the body. A leather sash slips through slits in the front princess seams and is tied at the waist for more definition.
This shift dress by Ben Reig is fashioned from brown linen. A front zipper is hidden behind the decorative placket. Notice how the dress floats next to the body while the bias cut of the linen allows subtle shaping.Just added at Couture Allure, this early 60's overblouse dress by Herbert Kasper in black rayon. The overblouse is cut on the bias for fluid shaping that softens the square cut.
Sunday, June 21, 2009
June 21 - Steal of a Deal
Today's Steal of a Deal is this 1950's blue and purple silk shirtwaist dress by “The Bride’s Shop” which was the name of Priscilla of Boston’s first store. Original price - $75.00. Today only, steal is for 50% off - $37.50.
New at Couture Allure - Vintage Designer Dresses
New this week at Couture Allure are some real beauties! Enjoy!
This vintage 1980's dress by Thierry Mugler features one of his iconic designs - the pointed shoulder. This style was the inspiration for several couture houses for 2009. Case in point - Victoria Beckham in Pierre Balmain 2009.
See what I mean? Why not spend thousands less and own an original???
How about a bit of "Ladies Who Lunch" elegance with this 1960's silk dress with white mink fur cuffs?
For you Rockabilly gals, I added this vintage 50's circle skirt in genuine tropical print barkcloth.
I found another vintage 70's Catherine Ogust dress, this one in an unusual colorway I've not seen before.
Abe Schrader fashioned this 1960's silk ruffle hem dress after a Dior original.
Speaking of unusual prints, how about this 1960's psychedelic silk print shift dress by Larry Aldrich? Love it, love it!
This vintage 1980's dress by Thierry Mugler features one of his iconic designs - the pointed shoulder. This style was the inspiration for several couture houses for 2009. Case in point - Victoria Beckham in Pierre Balmain 2009.
See what I mean? Why not spend thousands less and own an original???How about a bit of "Ladies Who Lunch" elegance with this 1960's silk dress with white mink fur cuffs?For you Rockabilly gals, I added this vintage 50's circle skirt in genuine tropical print barkcloth.
I found another vintage 70's Catherine Ogust dress, this one in an unusual colorway I've not seen before.Abe Schrader fashioned this 1960's silk ruffle hem dress after a Dior original.Speaking of unusual prints, how about this 1960's psychedelic silk print shift dress by Larry Aldrich? Love it, love it!
Saturday, June 20, 2009
June 20 - Steal of a Deal
Today's Super Steal of a Deal is this gorgeous vintage 1970's evening dress by Malouf. Deep green velvet is set off with a genuine mink fur collar. The dress is lined in silk. Imagine lounging in this gown on a cold winter's evening. Trés chic! Original price - $145.00. Today only, steal it at 75% off - $36.25.
Weekend Eye Candy - 1949 June Bride
Ecru lace over candlelight satin wedding gown by Pandora. The groom wears a formal cutaway tuxedo with striped trousers. I love the way this photo blurs out toward the bottom.
Friday, June 19, 2009
June 19 - Steal of a Deal
Today's Steal of a Deal is this sweet late 1940's cotton dress that is perfect for a day at the park. Original price - $85.00. Today only, steal it at 50% off - $42.50.
Posts
