Plaids the Couture Way - 1952

Today I want to show you some couture garments from 1952 that are made with plaid fabrics.  When looking at these designs, notice how perfectly the plaids are matched at the seams, across openings and even on pockets and pleats.  If you've ever sewn with plaid, you know how difficult this is to do.  Enjoy, appreciate, then be inspired!

Dress by Germaine Lecomte.  Note the the plaid on the lapels and the perfect matching across the diagonal opening on the bias cut skirt.  Oh...and those sleeves!

Dress by Agnes Drecoll.  See that line that crosses above the bust?  Look how perfectly it drops across the sleeve. 

Dress by Germaine Lecomte.  Matching plaid is difficult enough.  Matching it on the bias?  That makes my brain hurt.  Note the pockets at the hips.  Perfectly matched.

Dress by Henry a la Pensee.  Take a plaid and play with pleats to make a new design.  Then make it perfectly symmetrical.  Oh and match the first pleat to the flat fabric at the center front from waist to hem.  How did he do that?

Weekend Eye Candy - Gilbert Orcel, 1952

Gorgeous gray hat by French milliner Gilbert Orcel for spring 1952.  Insert smile here.

The Most Incredible Gloves!

I stumbled upon this photo on Pinterest the other day and I had to share it with you.  The only caption was "Dior, 1952."  It's a lovely strapless dress, supposedly by Dior, but what I want you to notice is the gloves!  They extend into a stole-like strap that goes over the shoulders and around the neck.  I've never seen anything like them before and would love to know who made them.  If you have seen this photo before and know the source, could you let me know? 

My other question......how do you put these gloves on? 

Carolyn Schnurer Swimsuit, 1952

I love the composition of this photo.  Louise Dahl-Wolfe was a genius.  Carolyn Schnurer designed this swimsuit for her 1952 collection.  The textile mimics the texture in the antique Japanese woven bamboo box. 

Weekend Eye Candy: Jean Desses Evening Gown, 1952

Feast your eyes on the genius of haute couture.  Jean Desses created this stunning gown for the spring of 1952.  White satin is molded to fit the body with tucks galore on the bodice.  And look how the yards of fabric used for the overskirt fall gracefully from those folds at the hips.  This gown is an architectural wonder.  Wouldn't you love to get a peek at the construction?

One Perfect Coat - 1952

I've been sitting here staring at this image for a couple of minutes wondering what to say.  But do I need to say anything except this is One Perfect Coat?  The black and white stylized zebra stripe.  The fit-and-flare cut.  The full sleeves that narrow towards the cuff.  The big pockets.  The turn of the collar.  Yep, One Perfect Coat!  Pierre Balmain, Fall 1952.

Weekend Eye Candy - Maggy Rouff, 1952

I'm not sure which is better eye candy.  Is it Maggy Rouff's white satin evening gown with beading and a sea blue tulle stole?  Or is it the Chambre du Conseil at Versailles?  Photo taken in 1952.

Marilyn Monroe 1952

Marilyn Monroe relaxes at home listening to classical music in 1952.  This photo was taken for Life Magazine right before the actress made it big in her leading role in Niagra.

Weekend Eye Candy - Legroux Souers - 1952

It's Kentucky Derby day, so it's only appropriate to show  you a Derby-worthy hat.  This straw beauty by Legroux Souers, Paris dates to the spring of 1952.  Don't forget to wear your diamond 4-leaf clover pin for luck!

Hermes Trompe L'oeil Dresses - 1952

For Spring 1952, Hermes Paris devised these wonderfully simple dresses that have anything but a simple effect.  Plain lengths of fabric were screen printed with painted details like lapels, buttons and pockets.  The fabric was then cut and sewn into the clever dresses shown here.

The dresses were copied with permission in the US by Herbert Sondheim later in 1952.  The Sondheim dresses were made of rayon that was woven to look like linen and, due to the screen printing, they were dry clean only.  Each dress style was made available in 4 colors: white, navy, black and copper.  The Sondheim copies sold for $29.95 in 1952 (about $259 in today's dollar.)

Another style available from Sondheim, this dress has 3/4 sleeves and a flowing scarf printed on the bodice.  Sold for $39.95 in 1952 (about $346 in today's dollar.)

And another version, this one with painted top-stitching along the lapels and pockets.  Sold for $29.95 in 1952 (about $259 in today's dollar.)

Meanwhile, back in Paris, Hermes applied the same technique to raincoats.  The buttons and pockets are screen-printed and the coat closes with a hidden zipper in the front.  As far as I can tell, the coats were not copied here in the US.  The coat sold for $100 in 1952 (about $866 in today's dollar.)

Trompe l'oeil hood painted on the back of the coat.

All photos by Gordon Parks for Life Magazine, 1952.

Weekend Eye Candy - Norman Norell, 1952

A handsome and beautifully tailored suit by Norman Norell from 1952.

Cocktail Hats - 1952

Oh how I love those sweet little confections called cocktail hats from the 1950s. They consisted of sculpted caps fit tightly to the head, which were then adorned with inventive ornaments like feathers plumes, veiling, or beads. To make a hat like this work, you must have short hair, or long hair worn tight to the head in a chignon. Enjoy these examples from 1952 as inspiration.

Weekend Eye Candy - Lanvin-Castillo, 1952

Lanvin-Castillo evening gown from 1952. White satin is embroidered and beaded in pale blue and the pale blue tulle train floats behind.