Vintage Bubble Skirted Dresses

1950s Bubble Hem Party Dress at Couture Allure

In the late 1950's, the bubble skirt became a popular style for party, cocktail, and prom dresses. A bubble skirt is a full skirt that folds under at the hem and is gathered into a smaller lining. This forms a pretty pouf at the hem rather than the knife edge we are used to. Many bubble skirts have netting sewn in between the outer skirt and the lining to give the bubble more volume. Also called balloon hems or harem skirts, here are several from 1958:

This dress features a velveteen bodice with an irridescent taffeta bubble skirt. By Barbara Dance Frocks.

Another by Barbara Dance Frocks, this time in soft nylon tricot with a velveteen band across the upper bodice. The flying panels at the back can be caught over the arms as a stole or float free at the back of the dress.

Pink rayon satin fashions a pretty bubble dress by Betty Lane.

This cocktail dress is a fitted sheath of cotton velveteen with a short bubble pouf at the hem. By Candy Jrs.

How do they do it? Here is a peek at the underside of the hem of our blue dress at the top. The outer skirt is cut longer and wider than the lining. The edge of the outer skirt is gathered and sewn to the smaller lining, encasing a netting interlining for added pouf. The three skirt layers are then sewn to the waistband of the dress.



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Vintage Roadshow - Links of the Week

A Slip Of A Girl with vintage tips for laundering vintage girdles.

Couture Allure looks at vintage swimsuits from Tina Leser, Givenchy, and Polly Hornburg.

Glamoursplash takes note of Claire's McCardellisms.

Here's Looking Like You, Kid reviews Vintage Compacts & Beauty Accessories by Lynell Schwartz.

Kitsch-Slapped reviews Cinderella Nurse, a novel from the 1960s.

Things Your Grandmother Knew has FREE vintage slipper & scuff crochet patterns.

Vintage Dresses - New This Week at Couture Allure

Back from vacation and a buying trip, we've got tons of vintage dresses coming your way starting with these beauties, new this week at Couture Allure:

I blogged about polka dots a couple of weeks ago, and the love for this pattern was very evident. On my buying trip, I sought out polka dots for you, and this is my personal favorite - a 1950's shirtwaist styled full skirt dress with random dots in black and brown.

Who doesn't love pink? Who doesn't love cherries? The two are combined in this 1950's full skirted cotton dress by Posh.

The original labels are gone from this 1950's party dress, but everything about it says Paris to me. Black silk organza layered over taffeta with a bell shaped skirt, ruching, and big bows. Oh la la!

This 1960's Pat Sandler evening gown is just stunning with its Creamsicle orange silk chiffon, beaded Cleopatra color, and yards and yards of floating overlay. The original owner of this gown was short - probably no more than 5' - so if you're petite, this is the gown for you!

When I came across this 1940's African print dress, I fully expected to find a label from Tina Leser or Carolyn Schnurer, both of whom used ethnic fabrics as their design inspiration. Alas, the original labels have been removed from this dress too.


This 1960's silk dress does have the label - its by Teal Traina. Don't you love the black and white Mod graphic print?

Weekend Eye Candy - Paco Rabanne

Circa 1969 - an evening top by Paco Rabanne. Pink and white plastic disks and white beads are linked with stainless steel rings. From the collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute. Click the picture for a larger view.

My Cinderella Dress

When I was a child, I loved the story of "Cinderella". I saw the Disney film in the theatre. "Bibbidi-Bobbidi-Boo".

I watched "Rodgers and Hammerstein's Cinderella" every year on television. I can still sing all the words from every song. "Do I love you because you're beautiful, or are you beautiful because I love you?"

Who doesn't love this story? As children, I'm sure we all had dreams of a Prince Charming who would rescue us from everything that was wrong with our lives. We would reside high on a hill in a castle and live happily ever after. In my version, I would get to wear sparkly evening gowns with big poufy tulle skirts.

Here's my Cinderella dress. A strapless bodice embroidered with white and gold above a huge skirt with multiple layers of netting that sweeps out from a tiny waist. This dress, by Caradele, sold for $40.00 in 1954 (about $325.00 in today's dollar).

What does your Cinderella dress look like?

Herbert Sondheim - Leader of Seventh Avenue

Herbert Sondheim (father of composer Stephen Sondheim) owned a high quality dress manufacturing business in New York. Begun in 1923 as Sondheim-Levy, he bought out his partner during the Depression and the label Herbert Sondheim was born in 1930. The company was known for it's beautifully made and stylish clothes which were sold to only a select few stores. Sondheim dresses were not cheaply made frocks made by the thousands, as was the case with many dress manufacturers during the 30s. Sometime prior to 1930, Herbert married Janet (Foxy) Fox, a graduate of Parson's School of Design, and she became the designer for the Herbert Sondheim label.

From the beginning, Sondheim was very active in the New York apparel industry, and he became a leader on Seventh Avenue. In 1928, he was chosen to serve on the Executive Committee of the Associated Women's Apparel Industries. He was one of the founders of the Fashion Originator's Guild in 1931 and was very active in the fight against design "piracy" which the Guild strove to accomplish. As a leader of FOGA, he championed the government's L-85 fabric restrictions during WWII. In 1953, Sondheim was appointed to the Executive Committee of the New York Dress Institute, a group that promoted New York manufacturers. He was also a member of the Executive Committee of the Costume Institute of New York at the Metropolitan Museum and a Director of the Fashion Institute of Technology.

Sondheim divorced Foxy in 1940, and Frances Troy Stix became the designer for his company. By the early 1960's, Sarah Ripault was the designer. One of 5 houses called the "New York Couture", Sondheim dresses were carried by such high end stores as Bonwit Teller, Lord & Taylor, and Best & Co.

Sondheim retired in 1964 and died on August 2, 1966 at age 71.

Please note: Biographical information about Herbert Sondheim is copyright of Couture Allure and may not be copied without permission.

Shown above, a dress from the Spring 1958 line of Herbert Sondheim. A looped wool blouson jacket is worn over a silk dress. Sold for $160.00 (about $1200.00 in today's dollar).

1957 Vintage Swimsuits - Tina Leser, Givenchy, and Polly Hornburg

Gorgeous swimwear from 1957:

Tina Leser was one of the premier American sportswear designers in the 1940's and 50's. Here she fashions a skirted halter swimsuit entirely in yellow cotton pleats. Each pleat is edged with white loop braid. This suit sold for $35.00 (about $272.00 in today's dollar) at Bonwit Teller, Julius Garfinkle, and Bullock's-Wilshire. In my opinion, it's worth every penny.

I had no idea Hubert de Givenchy designed swimwear. This black skirted suit is his design for Jantzen. Made of acetate and nylon woven with Lastex, the suit sold for $25.00 (about $194.00 in today's dollar). The turban is by Adolfo.

My favorite of today's suits, this Catalina maillot is designed to emulate the styling of blue jeans. Navy blue orlon with Lastex is topstitched with contrasting thread and rivets decorate the front. Sold for $20.00 (about $155.00 in today's dollar).


Polly Hornburg was a native Bermudian who designed play clothes and swimwear for her 6 Calypso stores in Bermuda and Jamaica, as well as for stores all over the US. She was also known for designing one piece suits for skin-diving. Long sleeved and long legged, this elasticized cotton knit would keep you warmer in deeper waters. The high neckline dips to a deep V in the back, which I figure makes this suit more sexy than practical, but I'm not a diver, so what do I know? Sold for $30.00 (about $233.00 in today's dollar).

I'm Back!

I've missed you! Vacation was wonderful, the kid is graduated, and now it's back to business! I've actually been back for a couple of days, but I spent all day yesterday walking my feet off at a vintage show, and have I got some treasures coming for you! I'll be hard at work over the next month or so bringing you a fabulous selection of vintage dresses. Be sure to watch Couture Allure for goodies from Pauline Trigere, Kay Selig, Malcom Starr, Pierre Balmain, Teal Traina, Suzy Perette, Estevez, Anne Fogarty, and more. (I'm such a name dropper!) You won't want to miss any of the vintage finds I've picked out for you!

Above - sling back kitten heel shoes by Mademoiselle from 1962.

Vintage Summer Florals 1965

I wish this photo were in color so you could see the vivid tones of purple, emerald green, and lilac on white. By the mid-1960's, bright and oversized floral prints were showing up on sleeveless shift dresses for summer. These dresses are great because you don't need too many fussy accessories to make them work, which makes them perfect for hot weather. Slip on the dress, add a belt if you like, and perhaps this season's hot bangle bracelets. Add a pop of color at your feet with strappy sandals that co-ordinate with one of the colors in the dress and you are ready to go!

These 1960's floral print shift dresses often sell for under-the-money today and I'm not sure why. If you choose carefully, you can find them in the highest quality fabrics with the added benefit of a cotton lining. But then, you know me. I'll always choose vintage over modern.

Weekend Eye Candy - 1946 Maggy Rouff Evening Gown

Winter 1946 Maggy Rouff couture evening gown in silk satin with a dramatic drape at the side.

Weekend Eye Candy - 1968 Sandal Dress

All one piece from shoulders to toes and made of wide bands of elasticized cotton and rayon. This dress by Bernardo of Shugor was available by custom order only. Tropic-Cal sunglasses. So, how do you put it on??????

Vintage Dresses for the Mature Figure

As with current fashion magazines, the vintage magazines I own focus mainly on styles for the young woman. But what about the rest of us? My belly and hips aren't as small and tight as they once were. Can't those of us with a more mature figure wear vintage fashion too? The answer is a resounding yes! Here are some tips along with dresses from 1965.

Full skirted styles are OK as long as the skirt is not too poufy. Choose soft pleats at the waist instead of gathers or knife pleats, and forgo the crinoline. Neckline interest is always a good idea to draw the eye upward.

A shaped dress should skim lightly over your waist and hips and a slightly flared A-line will balance the width of your hips. Again, neckline interest draws the eye up.

If you still have a waist to envy, belt it! Here's that A-line skirt again.

A shift dress that falls from shoulder to hem in one unbroken line with light fit at the waist will make almost any woman look taller and slimmer. Contrast stitching at the yoke and neckline draw the eye up.

Another solution for those of you who like full skirts is to choose stitched down pleats that flare out only below the hips.

1961 Little Girl's Dresses

It wasn't easy being a little girl in 1961.

Pants and shorts were OK for outdoor play, but otherwise? We always had to wear a dress. We wore dresses to school, to parties, and for shopping.

Sometimes we had to wear stupid pinafores over our dresses. And then there were the scratchy crinoline slips that made us fidget.

And don't forget the Mary Jane shoes with anklet socks that always fell down and had to be pulled up over and over. Or, even worse, the tights that wouldn't stay up.

No, it wasn't easy being a little girl in 1961.

1960 Swimsuits

Seems like Wednesday has become "swimsuit day" here on the blog - at least for the summer!

The year: 1960. Swimsuits are still structured with sculpted bra shaping and two-piece suits feature bottoms that go no lower than the waist. Somehow, I find these sexier than the barely-there styles of today.

Catalina suit in black and white cotton ticking stripe. Sold for $11.00 (about $81.00 in today's dollar).

Cole of California offered this two-piece suit with matching jacket in a blue and green cotton print. The three pieces together sold for $23.00 (about $170.00 in today's dollar).

At left: An orange two-piece suit by Sea-B in Helanca and Lastex knit. Sold for $18.00 ($133.00 in today's dollar).
At right: Elizabeth Stewart one-piece maillot with a deeply cut back in mustard and white cotton and Lastex knit. Sold for $23.00 (about $170.00 in today's dollar).

Fashion and Film - Lawrence of Arabia

The blockbuster film Lawrence of Arabia was released on January 30, 1963. The film ran 3 hours and 36 minutes long and won 7 Oscars, including Best Picture and Best Director. In a clever twist on cross-marketing, the January 15, 1963 issue of Vogue magazine featured a group of advertisements with a Lawrence of Arabia theme called "The Chic of Araby". Evidently, the movie sparked an Arabian desert fashion trend.

Elizabeth Arden created a new orange shade in lipstick and nail polish that it called "Sheik - a lip shade only the chic will know."

"Rosalie Macrini shapes a wonderful swirl of white chiffon into the sweeping lines of the Far Eastern silhouette. Rich gold encrusted velvet bands waist and hood."

"Stella Sloat loves the Lawrence of Arabia look, in homespun.....Does the beach dress superb. With dash. Drama. In these bold, brilliant stripes."

"Branell reflects all the chic of Araby in a beautifully illuminated dress of desert sand Moygashel linen."

"B.H. Wragge interprets the new Lawrence of Arabia look in airy voile....A dramatic harem sheath. Magnificently draped, cool, crease-resistant. In sand with peach burnoose, or oasis blue with green."

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Serbin of Florida Vintage Dresses

April 1960

Anyone who loves full-skirted cotton dresses from the 1950's and 60's will recognize the name Serbin of Florida. Serbin began as a sportswear manufacturer in Cleveland and they were well known for their golf dresses and co-ordinated separates in the 1940's. The company moved to Miami in 1944 and became known as Serbin of Florida. In the 1950's and early 60's they were noted for their well-made cotton day dresses and sun dresses and by this time, they were one of the largest clothing manufacturers in Florida. Their ads from this era always featured the tag line, "Urban or suburban...always wear a Serbin."

January 1960

Some of their dresses came with matching sweaters edged in the dress fabric.

November 1959

March 1960

I've sold many a Serbin dress over the years, but this is by far my favorite. Striped cotton chambray is cut and pieced to form a hexagonal spider web design on the back of the bodice.

Take a look at how perfectly the 6 pieces are matched at the seams. This is not easy to do, as the seams are cut on the bias of the fabric which tends to stretch as it is sewn. Sorry, ladies, this one recently sold, but I'll keep my eyes open for more great Serbin dresses for you!

Weekend Eye Candy - 1961 Bill Blass Suit

Bill Blass for Maurice Rentner paisley cotton dress and jacket sold for $185.00 (about $1350.00 in today's dollar). Worn with a Lilly Daché hat, Kislav gloves, and an Eisenberg pin. The lap dog - priceless.