Mini Skirts - 1972

At first glance, you may think these dresses from 1972 were shortened just to make an impact in the photographs. You may think that we didn't wear our mini skirts that short. You'd be wrong. Yes, Virginia, we did wear our skirts this short. And yes, we had to learn to move so as not to show more than we wanted. No bending from the waist, always from the knees. No crossing of the legs without first tugging at the hem of your skirt. In fact, we were always tugging at the hem of our skirts to keep our ba-donka-donks covered. And, yes, we froze in cold weather. We were slaves to fashion.

Teal green jersey mini dress with side buttons by Daniel Hechter is worn with a white rib knit turtleneck jersey and green rib knit tights. White boots by Jean Barthet.
On the right, orange and yellow striped dress by Daniel Hechter worn with orange opaque tights and platform shoes.

A printed jersey jumper with buttons at the shoulder straps by Get Gaston Jaunet is worn over a black rib knit turtleneck top and black rib knit tights.

Heavy blue wool tunic and mini skirt by Madd worn with a red knit turtleneck sweater and nude pantyhose.

Hair Styles - 1984

Architectural, asymmetric, and like awesome! This is like, totally dude, like how we wore our hair in 1984. Omigawd!

Modern Foundation Garments to Make Your Vintage Dresses Fit Correctly

I had a lot of requests for suggestions about where to find modern foundation garments like the vintage styles I featured yesterday. Jenifer is correct when she says that the elastic and fabrics of most vintage foundations have degraded with time and do not support as well as they once did. And Gladys is spot on when she says you can't find this type of foundation garment in most stores today. No matter what others say, Spanx is just a body smoother, not a proper foundation that controls and supports.

I've been doing some research for you this morning, and have found several modern foundation garment manufacturers that look like they will meet the needs of those of you who want to wear vintage clothing.

First, and perhaps best known, is Rago Shapewear. Rago offers many styles in various control weights from light all the way up to extra firm. In business for over 50 years, Rago produces garments with exceptional attention to shaping the female form.

Other manufacturers to look for are Custom Maid, Grenier, and Crown.

So, where can you buy modern foundation garments from these manufacturers? There are lots of online shops that offer them. I have not purchased from any of these online sites, so none of my recommendations can be considered a personal endorsement, but in doing my research this morning, these sites carry the best selections, and most have customer service numbers so you can get help with fitting and questions:

A Slip of a Girl sells lots of vintage lingerie styles on Amazon, including this open bottom girdle by Rago

Girdle Bound offers a huge selection of new foundation garments in vintage styles. They will also custom dye your piece in any color you chose for an added fee.

Secrets in Lace has been in business since 1984, and offers a wonderful selection of foundation garments in regular and plus sizes.

American Shapewear carries the entire Rago product line.

If you prefer to shop in person, check your local yellow pages for "Foundation Garments". Keep in mind that most lingerie stores, like Victoria's Secret or Fredericks, will not carry the type of girdles you're looking for. You want to find the store that's been around for years and years, then look for the older woman who has worked there forever. She knows what you want. You can also try your local Sears or Macys, but you'll be on your own, as most sale clerks there won't be trained in fitting you.

Best of luck in finding foundations that work for you! Please let me know how it goes!

Foundation Garments to Make Your Vintage Dresses Fit Correctly

Buyers of vintage clothing often wonder why these garments don't fit as well as they would like. The answer? Foundation garments! Prior to the late 1960s, every woman had a complete wardrobe of various foundations, because her figure was as much a part of the fashion as her dress. In fact, vintage garments were designed and constructed with the understanding that the woman who wore them would be wearing the correct bra, girdle, and slip.

Here are four looks from 1950, with the foundation garments that should be worn underneath for precise control where the style required it.

1950 Simplicity Designer Pattern 8207

Essential for the long fitted jacket and straight skirt is firm derriere control. Flexees girdle with Lastique net over hips and small of back to give suport and suppleness, while a satin lastique panel flattens the derriere. Maiden Form brassiere.

1950 Simplicity Designer Pattern 8252

A sheath dress calls for extra attention to the waistline and thigh. Jantzen girdle has a high waistline to control the diaphragm, while the long length controls the thighs and hips. Maiden Form strapless brassiere for the low cut neckline.

1950 Simplicity Designer Pattern 8224

The sculptured line of a slim basic dress requires the smooth control of an all-in-one corset. This Warner Bros. boneless style has a separate lastex section for diaphragm control and special abdomen, derriere and hip sections with an attached bra.

1950 Simplicity Pattern 2722

The smooth front and flared back of this dress demand the firm abdomen control and fluid movement given by a Playtex all Lastex girdle. Perma-lift low cut brassiere for a deep neckline.

New at Couture Allure - Vintage Dresses and Coats

I'm getting to the end of the vintage coats I will have available this season. This week at Couture Allure, I've added three of my favorites along with some wonderful vintage dresses. I've also added a highly collectible bodysuit dress by Giorgio di Sant'Angelo that is not to be missed! Be sure to check our What's New page frequently for the latest additions to the site.

1960s Davidow Orange Tapestry Coat

1960s Pauline Trigere Black Velvet Opera Cape

1980s Ilie Wacs Pink & Black Swing Coat

1970s Giorgio di Sant'Angelo Iconic Bodysuit Wrap Dress

1960s Green Silk Chiffon Goddess Evening Gown

1950s Lilac Ruffles Strapless Prom Dress

Weekend Eye Candy - Golo Mod Boot, 1967

We saw a cute pair of Golo shoes earlier this week, and this morning I found this pair of boots from Golo made in 1967. Adjustable height boots in patent leather with rubber soles. Zippers separate each section so the boots can be worn as high or as low as you like.

Fox Trimmed Coat - 1973

I am in a rush and juggling several things this morning. I only have time to share this stunning coat from 1973. Pure white wool is trimmed with pure white fox fur. Me want! Coat by Cuddlecoat, sold for $800 in 1973 (about $3841 in today's dollar).

Iris Apfel - Rare Bird of Fashion Exhibit

"The fun of getting dressed is, it's a creative experience." - Iris Apfel



“Rare Bird of Fashion: The Irreverent Iris Apfel" opens at the Peabody Essex Museum in Salem, MA on October 17 and runs through February 7, 2010. We don't get very many fashion exhibits in the Boston area, and I am thrilled that this one is so close to me. If you've never visited the Peabody Essex, it is a beautiful gem of a museum about 45 minutes north of Boston and is well worth a visit. This morning's Boston Globe has a fun article about Apfel and the exhibit.

"You only have one trip, you might as well enjoy it!"

Vintage Coats - 1980s

Today, I am finishing my series on coat styles through the decades with a look at the 1980s. The 80s was all about exaggeration. The inverted wedge or triangle shape ruled fashion with big shoulders and tapered legs. Coats had huge oversized shoulder pads, and they were worn over jackets or tops that had their own shoulder pads. Women looked like linebackers. Classic styles, such as the reefer or the trench coat were large in the shoulder and slim below the waist with deep dolman armholes.

Gianni Versace 1984

Claude Montana 1984

Gianfranco Ferre 1984

Bright pops of color were worn with black. This vivid turquoise wedge coat by Cuddlecoat is worn over black tights.

Here you can see another popular look, the flanged shoulder. Big tucks were taken at the shoulders to add volume, and then tapered to slimness below the waist.

Even basic trench coats had big shoulder pads. This one is by London Fog.

For casual wear, the bomber jacket, based on the classic baseball style, was popular in leather and acid washed denim.

Georges Marciano 1984

I hope you've found this series on coat styles through the years helpful when trying to date a vintage coat. It's been fun going down memory lane!

Textured Tights and More Cute Shoes - 1963

I'm still on the hunt for a great pair of walking shoes, and any of these from 1963 would do the trick. I especially love the way these are matched with textured tights which give them a "to the manor born" feel.

From left to right:
- Pappagallo red suede ghillie with black patent lacings up the leg. Sold for $34 in 1963 (about $237 in today's dollar). Bonnie Doon black and white textured stockings.
- Bally tan suede ghillie worn with Bonnie Doon blue textured stockings. Sold for $28 in 1963 (about $195 in today's dollar).
- David Evins brown calfskin ghillie laced in red suede worn with Adler heathered ribbed stocking. Sold for $55 in 1963 (about $383 in today's dollar).
- Josef green calfskin handbag. Sold for $46 in 1963 (about $321 in today's dollar).

From left to right:
- Joseph yellow calfskin handbag. Sold for $40 in 1963 (about $279 in today's dollar).
- Wear-Right Irish knit long glove and Grandoe brown rib knit long glove.
- Pappagallo green suede ghillie with rust suede lacings that wrap the ankle. Sold for $16 in 1963 (about $112 in today's dollar).
- Hansen leopard knit long glove.

From left to right:
- Vitality rust suede oxford with rubber wedge sole. Sold for $11 in 1963 (about $77 in today's dollar). Worn with Balenciaga printed tights.
- I. Miller taupe grained leather oxford with perforations. Sold for $40 in 1963 (about $279 in today's dollar). Worn with Francessa herringbone stockings.
- Naturalizer mahogany calfskin loafer. Sold for $18 in 1963 (about $125 in today's dollar). Worn with Mary Grey two-tone lattice patterned stockings.

- Delman hand-knit sock attached to thick soled suede shoe make a unique "boot". Sold for $85 in 1963 (about $592 in today's dollar).
- Gucci shoulder bag in ponyskin and brown leather. Sold for $61 in 1963 (about $425 in today's dollar).
- Kislav hand-sewn lambskin gloves.
- Renauld of France sunglasses.

Cute Shoes - 1958

Since sandal weather is over, I've been looking for a pair of cute shoes I can wear with skirts or pants that have a low enough heel that I can walk or stand in them for several hours. I have a wide foot, and prefer something with arch support and at least a 3/4" heel. The search has been fruitless so far. I believe I've finally found the perfect shoes. Too bad they're all from 1958.

Clockwise from upper right:
- Cloudhoppers red suede with removable kilt tab. Sold for $10 in 1958 (about $74 in today's dollar).
- Town & Country pumpkin suede with laces on brass hooks. Sold for $11 in 1958 (about $81 in today's dollar).
- Sandler of Boston blue suede with kid leather cuff and eyelet tie. Sold for $10 in 1958 (about $74 in today's dollar).
- Pappagallo brushed suede leather in blue and green mimics the look of mohair in a slip on moccasin. Sold for $11 in 1958 (about $81 in today's dollar).
- Golo moss green pigskin with tasseled corset lacing. Sold for $11 in 1958 (about $81 in today's dollar).
- Patinos red and orange suede tied with black patent. Sold for $11 in 1958 (about $81 in today's dollar).




Top to bottom:
- College Hill brushed cowhide in blue with black tasseled tie. Sold for $9 in 1958 (about $66 in today's dollar).
- Penobscot Trampeze red suede ribbed to look like corduroy with eyelet ties. Sold for $8 in 1958 (about $59 in today's dollar).
- Ki-Yaks loden green brushed leather bootie with single eyelet tie. Sold for $8 in 1958 (about $59 in today's dollar).

My favs? The red and orange suede by Patinos. How about you?

New at Couture Allure - Vintage Designer Dresses

From the 1940s to the 1990s, we've added lots of new goodies for you this week at Couture Allure! Check our What's New page to see the latest additions to the site.

1950s Suzy Perette Party Dress

1990's Geoffrey Beene Cocktail Dress

1960s Graphic Stripe Wool Knit Dress

1950s Black Taffeta Party Dress

1940s Navy Crepe Evening Gown

1980s Valentino Velvet & Wool Crepe Dress