Time to Say Goodbye

After 15 years selling the best in vintage clothing and accessories, the time has come for me to retire.  I am sad to say goodbye to my customers and friends in the vintage community, but I am happy to welcome the changes in my life.  It's all good.

During our liquidation sale, take 50% off all orders.  Simply enter coupon code "retire" at checkout and the discount will be automatically applied.  Discount does not apply to previous sales or shipping.  There will be no holds or layaways accepted.  All sales are FINAL.  The site will be shut down permanently at the end of January.

If you live in or near the Tampa Bay area and would be interested in a bulk buy, please email me.

Thank you all for your patronage over the years.  I have met some wonderful people through this site.  I wish you all the best.

Valentino 1989

Just added to the Couture Allure website is this stunning Valentino 2-piece evening ensemble from the Spring/Summer 1989 collection.  This set was featured in the book "Valentino: 30 Years of Magic", published by Rizzoli in 1992.  An identical ensemble was also featured in the exhibit "Nan Kempner: American Chic" which was on display at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York from December 2006 - March 2007 and at the Legion of Honor in San Francisco from June - November 2007.  Kempner owned and wore the same set.

As stated in the Valentino book, this design was inspired by a 16th century wooden stool inlaid with tortoiseshell and mother-of-pearl.  Valentino was known to be inspired often by medieval art.

You'll see the set on the runway in this video at 1:11.  Look at the movement of that skirt!

Vintage Butterfly Dress

This image came across my Pinterest feed last night.  I can't find any attribution for the designer or year.  I'm pretty sure this dates to right around 1959-62 and it sure looks like a Vera Neumann print, but until I can find out for sure, I'll just say......isn't it fabulous?  Can anyone help with pinning down a date, designer, photographer, etc?

Fantastic Floral Hats from 1954

Evidently French milliners had decided 1954 was the year of fanciful floral confections, judging by these marvelous hats from that year.  Some are stunning, some are silly, all are striking.  Which one is your favorite?

Gilbert Orcel

Gilbert Orcel

Svend

Reboux

Paulette

Paulette

Legroux Souers

1930s Chanel Adaptation Dress and Jacket Ensemble

In the days before Chanel made ready-to-wear clothing, it was common practice for Mme. Coco to authorize American department stores and high end boutiques to make reproductions of her designs for women in the U.S.  Buyers and designers for these stores would attend the Paris couture shows, then purchase the designs they wanted to reproduce here in America.  Hence, the Chanel Adaptation label.

In 1934, Chanel was showing many garments with fly-away sleeves and capelets in her couture line.

Now available for purchase at Couture Allure is this rare Chanel Adaptation label dress and jacket that I have dated to 1934.  Even though adaptation garments are not original couture, they are still of the highest quality and were made specifically for well-to-do clients by the American stores that offered them.  Remember, in 1934, America was struggling through the Great Depression, and the women that could afford to purchase garments like this were few and far between.

This ensemble is made of dusky pink rayon crepe and is in an even harder-to-find larger size with a 42" bust and 32" waist.

All of the pulled thread work and faggoting stitches are done by hand and the sleeves of both pieces are adorned with the tiniest pintucks I've ever seen.  The ensemble was well taken care of and stored properly for decades until it came to me.  I hope you'll go check out the many photos of this rare set on my website.  It's a joy to behold!

Couture Allure Supports Reading Is Fundamental

I was a painfully shy child. I found comfort in reading. Books were my friends, stories were my playmates, reading taught me about the world.  Children's literacy is near and dear to my heart.  But we can't encourage our children to read if they have no books.

Reading Is Fundamental is an A-rated charity that works to motivate young children to read by working with them, their parents, and community members to make reading a fun and beneficial part of everyday life.  They work to put books in the hands of children who don't have them.

From September 1 - December 31, 2014, 10% of all sales at Couture Allure, SewHallie and through my retail shops goes directly to Reading Is Fundamental to support their programs.  If you feel strongly about children's literacy, I hope you'll consider a donation to this important charity.  Thank you!

Valentino Cape, 1969

This exquisite cape by Valentino comes from his couture collection for Spring 1969.  The coral branches on the ivory satin are completely painted by hand.  Worn with coral colored crepe pants.  Exquisite, no?

6 Hilariously Awkward Model Poses - 1960

I was perusing a fashion magazine from 1960 this morning and kept coming across pictures in which the model was posed in a very awkward way.  I thought they might bring a little fun to your day.

This girl looks like she is holding a dress that is far too large for her up with her armpits.  If she lifts her arms, that dress is going to slide right down.

Sit on the chair, but don't wrinkle the dress!  Isn't this one of those difficult yoga poses?

No one will notice your hair if you hold this rose.  Caress the rose, make love to the rose, it's all about the rose.

She needs a prop.  Get her a book!  Reading a book while standing in heels and wearing gloves and a big fur hat is perfectly normal!

Model with long legs and chair with short legs.  Make it work!

The gal on the left looks like she definitely has an opinion about the gal on the right, and it's not pretty!

Plaids the Couture Way - 1952

Today I want to show you some couture garments from 1952 that are made with plaid fabrics.  When looking at these designs, notice how perfectly the plaids are matched at the seams, across openings and even on pockets and pleats.  If you've ever sewn with plaid, you know how difficult this is to do.  Enjoy, appreciate, then be inspired!

Dress by Germaine Lecomte.  Note the the plaid on the lapels and the perfect matching across the diagonal opening on the bias cut skirt.  Oh...and those sleeves!

Dress by Agnes Drecoll.  See that line that crosses above the bust?  Look how perfectly it drops across the sleeve. 

Dress by Germaine Lecomte.  Matching plaid is difficult enough.  Matching it on the bias?  That makes my brain hurt.  Note the pockets at the hips.  Perfectly matched.

Dress by Henry a la Pensee.  Take a plaid and play with pleats to make a new design.  Then make it perfectly symmetrical.  Oh and match the first pleat to the flat fabric at the center front from waist to hem.  How did he do that?

La Vigna Vicuna Trench Coat - 1954

Thinking about your winter coat yet?  You can't go wrong with a classic trench style like this one by La Vigna from 1954.  La Vigna was a coat and suit manufacturer based in New York that was best known for their use of vicuna and vicuna blend fabrics.

The underdown of the vicuna is the softest and most luxurious in the world, and the warmest for its weight.  So popular was this fiber in the luxury market, the poaching of the animals in the high Andes Mountains led to vicuna being listed as endangered in 1974.  In 2002, the rebound of vicuna allowed the classification to be changed to threatened in certain countries of South America and the fiber is again being used in manufacture under strict requirements.

In 1958, Fred La Vigna formed the "Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Vicuna", as he was very concerned about the poaching of these animals.  His company only used fabrics made from vicuna fibers collected in the wild during the once-yearly natural shedding process.  It takes the fleece from about 40 vicuna to make one coat.  Pure vicuna fabric sold for $75 a yard in 1958 (about $620 a yard in today's dollar,) and a pure vicuna coat sold for around $1000 (about $8,245 in today's dollar.)

As for the coat shown above, it is made of "Vicunaire", a fabric made by Einiger of 90% imported wool and 10% pure vicuna.  It sold for $110 in 1954 (about $974 in today's dollar.)

How do you make a classic coat more classic?  Add the touch of a leopard print scarf at the neck, of course!

Exciting News at Couture Allure!

You may have noticed that the Couture Allure website and this blog have been quiet lately.  There's a very good reason for that.  I have been working very hard over the last couple of months opening 3 retail spaces where you can now buy vintage and vintage-inspired clothing, accessories and jewelry from Couture Allure live and in person!  It's been a lot of work, but I am thrilled with the results.

This is the Couture Allure space at Antiques & Uniques in Ozona, FL.  Here, you'll find vintage from the 1930s - 1970s mixed with a few modern pieces that have a bohemian vibe.  

Vintage hats, scarves, jewelry handbags, shoes and home textiles round out the mix, along with some select vintage furniture finds.

Couture Allure goes tropical at House to Home in Clearwater, FL.  Here you'll find vintage clothing and accessories in brighter prints and colors, as well as smaller furniture pieces with a true Floridian flair.

In this space, you'll find lots of 1960s - 70s clothing mixed with vintage-inspired pieces that have that beachy, patio party style.

For the fun and funky, shop my space in Patina Retro and Modern, opening soon on Main St. in Dunedin, FL.  Here's a sneak peek at some of the vintage sparkle and shine you'll find there, along with vintage lingerie and accessories.  This is where you'll see vintage from the 1950s - 80s to add a little spice and glam to your style.

If you are visiting the Gulf Coast of Florida, I hope you'll stop in to see my retail shops. The website will be back in full swing in September with loads of fabulous vintage finds for fall and winter.  I promise!

Teal Traina Suit - 1966

Here's another good example of a fashion trying to bridge the gap between classic clients and the newer Mod looks for the younger generation in 1966.  Venerable old New England department store Jordan Marsh placed this full page ad in Harper's Bazaar.  The dinner suit by Teal Traina is made from a fabulous brocade with a large scale pattern and has a shorter skirt length to appeal to the younger woman.  The choice of the dark tights, gloves and helmet hat are trying to appeal to the Teal Traina and Jordan Marsh client of the past.  What you end up with is a muddled mess.  For this to work, the model should be wearing silver sparkle hosiery, no hat, no gloves and big hair.  It's too bad, as that suit is GORGEOUS!!!!!  Suit sold for $250 in 1966 (about $1836 in today's dollar.)

Photo from a full page ad for Jordan Marsh appearing in Harper's Bazaar, 1966.  No credit given.

Monte-Sano and Pruzan Suit, 1966

Monte-Sano and Pruzan was a high-end maker of tailored suits and coats based in New York.  For the Fall of 1966, they embrace the Mod era with a marvelous wool check enhanced with gold lurex threads for sparkle.  The knee-grazing length of the skirt would still appeal to the company's classic clients by being just mini enough, as would the appearance of the gloves in the photo.  Remember though, most women had abandoned wearing gloves by this time.  There is no notation of who made the shoes, but aren't they wonderful?

Photo by John Engstead for I. Magnin, appeared in Harper's Bazaaar,1966

Vacation Time! Are You Taking Vintage in Your Suitcase?

I am headed off for vacation and road trips for the rest of this month, but not to worry!  My assistant will be in the office to ship your orders and answer your questions while I'm away.

If you're going on a vacation of your own, I hope you'll be incorporating vintage into your wardrobe.  Need last minute ideas?  There are still lots of vintage and vintage inspired summer dresses, separates and accessories available at Couture Allure.

1970s cotton polka dot sundress

1960s Kahala cotton hostess dress

1970s hand embroidered peasant blouse

1980s abstract print cotton skirt

1950s 3-strand bead necklace

1970s large straw tote bag

1980s Benetton leather belt

Balenciaga Evening Gown - 1963

Hi-low hemlines....they've been around for years and years.  For spring of 1963, Balenciaga created this gorgeous gown.  The hemline exposes the ankle in front and lengthens to form a train in back.  Note how the designer echoes that line at the hip where the skirt attaches to the bodice.  What you can't see here is that he also echoes it at the neckline, which is high in front but dips to a low U in the back. 

The dress shown in this picture was not made in the Balenciaga workrooms, however.  It is an authorized copy made in the US by Nanty and sold at such high end retailers as Bergdorf Goodman, Stanley Korshak and Nan Duskin.  Jewelry by Vendome.

Photo by Irving Penn for Vogue magazine, 1963.

What's Under That Vintage Dress? Part 2

Monday's post about foundation garments got a lot of interest with comments, emails and even a phone call!  Here are a couple more examples today.

The strapless cocktail dress by Ceil Chapman shown above is worn over a strapless supportive bra and an open bottom girdle by Perma-lift. If you can't get the look without bulges between the two pieces, then wear an all-in-one corset.

And lest you think that girdles were only worn for evening, think again, my friends.  Women wore girdles with their daytime dresses too.  The Sportwhirl sheath shown here is worn with a supportive bra and panty girdle, both by Perma-lift.

I know what you're thinking.  "They don't make foundation garments like this anymore!"   WRONG!  There are several companies that do, including Secrets in Lace, as shown here.  Back in 2009, I did a long blog post about modern foundation garments to wear under your vintage clothing.  It includes tips and links to several companies that offer the types of corsetry you need.  Be sure to read the comments, as many readers shared other companies to look for too!