Plaids the Couture Way - 1952

Today I want to show you some couture garments from 1952 that are made with plaid fabrics.  When looking at these designs, notice how perfectly the plaids are matched at the seams, across openings and even on pockets and pleats.  If you've ever sewn with plaid, you know how difficult this is to do.  Enjoy, appreciate, then be inspired!

Dress by Germaine Lecomte.  Note the the plaid on the lapels and the perfect matching across the diagonal opening on the bias cut skirt.  Oh...and those sleeves!

Dress by Agnes Drecoll.  See that line that crosses above the bust?  Look how perfectly it drops across the sleeve. 

Dress by Germaine Lecomte.  Matching plaid is difficult enough.  Matching it on the bias?  That makes my brain hurt.  Note the pockets at the hips.  Perfectly matched.

Dress by Henry a la Pensee.  Take a plaid and play with pleats to make a new design.  Then make it perfectly symmetrical.  Oh and match the first pleat to the flat fabric at the center front from waist to hem.  How did he do that?

Mad for Plaid

There's something about wearing plaid on the cold blustery days of late autumn that feels so right.  I love the look of this simple jacket worked in a large scale plaid worn over a pair of jeans and a tee.  It's by Juniorite and is made from a traditional tartan wool in blue and brown.  Love that collar!  Sold for $25 in 1954 (about $215.00 in today's dollar.)  If you could find it, I'll bet the quality of the wool and construction would mean this jacket was still going strong 58 years later.  That's one of the reasons I love vintage. 

Mad for Plaid - 1956

There's a touch of Fall in the air this morning, and that brings to mind the perfect dress for this time of year. It's plaid, it's a darker color than the tropical brights of summer, and it's cotton because those cool mornings will give way to still-warm temperatures in the afternoon. These examples are all from 1956.

Kane Weill, one of the myriad of New York's 7th Avenue manufacturers of fine dresses, offered this full skirted cotton dress in brown, royal blue and black or green, royal blue and black plaid.  Black velvet accents the collar and cuffs. Sold in 1956 for $40 (about $337 in today's dollar.)  Hat by Mr. John.

L'Aiglon cotton plaid dress with a full skirt and linen collar.  This one buttons all the way up the front.  Sold in 1956 for $18 (about $152 in today's dollar.)

Nantucket Naturals brown cotton plaid accented with a big black organdy bow at the neckline.  Carry the black through in the belt, gloves and hat.  Sold in 1956 for $40 (about $337 in today's dollar.)

Kane Weill again, this time with a simple shirtwaist in brown, black and rust red plaid accented with black velvet at the collar and cuffs.  Sold in 1956 for $40 (about $337 in today's dollar.)

Plaids and Checks for Spring, 1959

While plaids are often associated with dressing for fall, there are some that are perfect harbingers of spring.  Think houndstooth checks in black and white or pastel colors.  Think plaids in paler, more muted tones like tans, blues, aquas or pinks.  Think plaids and checks in small or micro scale.  Think lighter weight tropical wools or rayons.  Think plaids and checks for spring!  The looks today are from Spring 1959.

Jane Derby fashioned this suit of a houndstooth check in black, white and brown.  The bodice of the dress is beige wool jersey.  Love the fringed effect at the edges.  Huge leather bag for travel by Mark Cross.

Maurice Rentner beige and white check wool suit worn with a white crepe blouse.  This suit would have likely been designed by Bill Blass before his name was put on the label.

Pattulo-Jo Copeland red and white micro check wool suit is as perfect for travel as it is for the office or the Easter holidays.

Harry Frechtel wool and mohair tweed suit in a mix of coral and white.  Worn with a matching hat and scarf.  That's another travel bag by Mark Cross.

Houndstooth is the perfect choice for your spring coat.  This one by Jack Sarnoff is fashioned of gold and white wool.

How to Wear Plaids for Fall, 1958

When I asked for requests for the blog on Facebook last week, Carey wanted a post about tartans.  Plaids are a classic for fall.  It seems every year the fashion magazines claim that "Plaid is Back!"  Actually, they never go out of favor.  Here are some suggestions for wearing plaid.  All of today's images are from 1958.

If you're choosing a bold color, consider a plaid that is worked in a tone-on-tone effect so as not to jar the eye of your beholders.  Guy Laroche designed this scarlet plaid coat for Duchess Royal.  It comes with an attached scarf collar that can be worn in many ways. Sold in 1958 for $110 (about $859 in today's dollar.)

Pair plaids, especially bold ones, with solid neutrals.  This lets the plaid stand out and become the star.  At left:  Modern Juniors sleeveless tunic worn over a red wool jumpsuit.  Set sold in 1958 for $33 (about $258 in today's dollar.)  At right: Dick Dumas blanket coat in bold orange, red and yellow is worn with a solid turtleneck and simple black pants.  Sold in 1958 for $60 (about $469 in today's dollar.)

When wearing an allover plaid, such as a suit, tone down the colors so as not to overwhelm your figure.  This spectator suit by Ellen Brooke was available in soft brown or misty blue.  Bold red or green would have been too much.  Sold in 1958 for $135 (about $1,054 in today's dollar.)

Consider the scale of the plaid you are wearing.  While an oversized, bold plaid can work for a casual coat, when wearing a suit or a dressier topper, keep the size of the plaid smaller for a more professional look.   Also consider your figure.  If you are a petite woman, a smaller scale plaid is best.  Nelly de Grab wool/mohair suit was sold at Bergdorf Goodman.  Sold in 1958 for $40 (about $312 in today's dollar.)

Plaids can be perfect for a casual look too.  Pair a plaid skirt, shorts or pants with a solid blouse or sweater for a classic look that will always be in style.  These wool pieces are all by Loomtogs.

Don't consider yourself a plaid kind of gal?  How about carrying a plaid blanket wool handbag as a standout accessory?  Pair it with a simple solid coat for a fabulous splash of color!  Coronet wool handbag with black calfskin handle and straps.  Sold in 1958 for $30 (about $234 in today's dollar.)

Mad For Plaid - 1972

It's 1972 and the whole world is mad for plaid. Plaid coats, plaid suits, plaid skirts, plaid pants. Plaid, plaid, plaid!

Get Gaston Jaunet wool plaid coat with cape style sleeves.

At left: Webe plaid overcoat with detachable capelet.
At right: Redine Loubens herringbone wool cape and knickers.

Dormeuil tartan plaid pant suit with bell bottoms.

At left: Boutique Nina Ricci plaid wool jacket worn over black pleated dress.
At right: Jean Patou Boutique bias cut wool coat with kimono sleeves.

Pierre Balmain Boutique fuzzy wool coat with capelet.

Mad for Plaid - 1950

The Fall-Winter 1950 Simplicity Pattern magazine is loaded with plaid looks for sewing projects. Care to be inspired for your own home sewing for fall?

Above: Green topper coat, Simplicity 3327. Red vest, Simplicity 3298. Plaid skirt, Simplicity 3027. Add a little Louis Vuitton and you're set to travel! Oh, and a sealskin purse.

Plaid wool blouse with velvet collar and cuffs and co-ordinating tuck front skirt, Simplicity 2624.

Left: Plaid and solid wools make a smart suit, Simplicity 8157.

Right: Bold checked wool jacket, Simplicity 8208.

3/4 swing coat belted at the waist, Simplicity 8188.

A plaid vest makes a statement with a suit, Simplicity 3298.

Taffeta plaid full skirted evening dress, Simplicity 3139.