I. Magnin's Miss Stella

Stella Hanania was born in Lebanon and was taught to sew in the Parisian convent where she went to school.  After moving to New York, she went to work in the custom salon at Bergdorf Goodman where she worked with Bernard Newman.  When Newman moved to Beverly Hills to design for Hollywood movie stars, Stella came along as his assistant.  She chose to stay in California and went to work for I. Magnin in 1947.

A Miss Stella creation, 1965.  A sequined jacket with real coral beads
floats over a white silk shantung skirt.

Miss Stella, as she chose to be called, was head of I. Magnin's custom couture salon in Los Angeles for 30 years.  All of the garments she created for her custom clients were designed specifically for that client and were made completely by hand.

The Custom Salon on the second floor of I. Magnin, Los Angeles.
This was Miss Stella's domain.

Twice a year, Stella would travel to Paris for the couture showings.  She purchased selections from the couture houses and received permission to copy them in America and also used what she saw for inspiration for her own designs.

Beaded evening helmet by Miss Stella, 1965.

Stella did not like ready-to-wear clothing, calling it "plastic."  She met individually with each client and understood their needs and body shapes, then designed their wardrobes encompassing their personal taste and style.  Miss Stella retired in 1977 and at that time was the last custom couture designer in a US department store.  She died in her sleep in 1987.

Printed Tights - 1965

I was at the mall yesterday and noticed lots of printed tights and leggings in the windows of the stores that cater to the younger crowd.  They might not know it, but printed tights are not new.  Today's images are all from the fall of 1965, when this idea really took off with the Mod set.  You were on the cutting edge if you wore your tights with a matching sweater and just a mini skirt over the two pieces. What's old is new again.....again.

Weekend Eye Candy: Chanel Suit, 1965

Stunning Chanel evening suit from 1965.  White silk cloque is used to great effect here.  Note how the asymmetric closure of the white satin blouse lines up with the wrap front of the skirt.  My favorite thing, though, is the huge pearl cross which gives this all white ensemble just the edge it needs.

Balenciaga Evening Gown, 1965

It's 1965.  Balenciaga shows this deceptively simple evening gown in bold fuschia crepe.  But it's 1965!  You can't just have a simple pink column gown and expect to make an impression.  So, the designer adds a huge stole of matching pink coque feathers.  Now you're talking!

I said the gown was deceptively simple because look what happens in the back.  Volume is tucked into a knot at the waist.  And that feather stole?  It's really a large complete circle of feathers.

Dior Swimsuit - 1965

Photo by Helmut Newton for Vogue UK

It's Summer 1965. Christian Dior uses the latest fad of wild and crazy prints for this terrycloth bikini and silk chiffon coverup for his Boutique label.  I wish the colors were a bit brighter, but it's gorgeous all the same.  Do you suppose one of these bikinis is hiding in a drawer or an attic somewhere in the world just waiting for someone to find it and appreciate it?  I hope so.

Hayley Mills

I can't fool you, dear readers!  Many of you guessed that this photo, taken by Helmut Newton in 1965, is indeed Hayley Mills.  She was 19 years old when this photo was taken for British Vogue.

Hayley Mills is best known for her role as Pollyanna in the Disney movie of the same name from 1960.  She was awarded a special Juvenile Academy Award for her performance.  She appeared in several films for Disney, but returned to England after her contract expired in 1965.  There she has remained active in movies and television throughout the years.

In 2008, Mills was diagnosed with breast cancer.  She stated in January of this year that she has recovered.  She is still a working actress.  And she is still beautiful!

Vintage Hairstyles for Evening - 1965

In 1965, women would spend hours at the hairdresser before a big event.  Hairstyles were BIG, the bigger the better.  It took a lot of hairspray to make a look like this stay in place all night.  And it took a lot of shampoo to get all that hairspray out the next day.  Even so, it's a lot of fun to wear a hairstyle like this.  I hope these images from 1965 inspire you to do something special with your hair for your holiday parties!

 

Yes, that's Catherine Deneuve

Don't have enough hair for a big hairstyle?  You could always use feathers.......

Chinchilla Fur Coat - 1965

Betty Yakova owned her own Paris couture salon before going to work for Neustadter Furs in New York.  In 1963, Yakova was given a special Coty Award for her work with fur.  Her work rivaled that of Bergdorf's Emeric Partos and she came up with some very innovative ways of using fur.  In 1967, Yakova designed mink tweed by sewing together tiny squares of charcoal and white mink.  In the same year, she made a coat with horizontal bands of silver fox and black mink.  She also dyed furs in fun colors like green, navy blue and purple.

Here, from 1965, is a 3/4 length Aurora chinchilla fur coat that Yakova designed for Neustadter's.  In another of her innovations, she used a wide belt of gray taffeta at the waist.  The coat was given added fullness below the waist with deep pleats.

Weekend Eye Candy - Geoffrey Beene Coat, 1965

Are you thinking about a coat for this winter yet?  If so, today's Eye Candy is sure to make you swoon.  This Mod era coat by Geoffrey Beene dates to about 1965.  The wool gabardine fabric is printed in a design that references the work of French artist Jean Dubuffet.  Simple black buttons down the front don't distract from the design.  This coat is part of the Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection.

Bright Pops of Color: 1965

Lately on the website, I can't keep wild printed dresses from the 1960s in stock.  There are more to come, I promise, but for today, here are some photos from 1965 for you to enjoy.  Do you think these prints are flying out the door because of a current fashion trend or are they perennially popular for you?

David Crystal

Mme. Gres

Pauline Trigere

Frank Usher

Lanvin

Weekend Eye Candy - Hanae Mori, 1965

Oh, how I wish this photo were in color. Hanae Mori's signature butterflies decorate this gown from 1965 with elaborate ruffles down the back and around the hem. Le sigh.......

Paris Cocktail Dresses, 1965

The hair! The jewelry! The make-up! But most importantly, the dresses! Today, cocktail dresses out of Paris, spring 1965.

Castillo black sheer cigaline over strapless satin lining.

Pierre Cardin pleated black crepe one shoulder dress with rhinestone bow.

Castillo black lace fitted dress with a ruffled lace overdress.

Simonetta black organza trapeze dress decorated with pleated ruffles
flares over a fitted underdress.

Dior white beaded flowers on silk organza with a matching mink trimmed jacket.

Party Hair, 1965

Tomorrow is New Year's Eve. If ever there was a night for big party hair, this is it. Here, some inspiration from 1965. Go for it!

The Look for Parties - 1965

What's the news in party looks for 1965? Beads, beads, and more beads. Metallics and pink. Big, big hair. Heavy eye make-up and pale lips. Bold jewelry.

Sophie of Saks white lace cocktail dress with beaded lace jacket. Necklaces by Star of Siam.

Mollie Parnis cocktail dress in beaded net that floats over a nude crepe lining. Huge pearl ring by Schreiner.

Bill Blass for Maurice Rentner pink mohair suit completely covered in pink sequins. Suit came with the pink silk blouse. Necklace by K.J.L.

At left: Sarmi red silk satin gown with a bow on one shoulder. Earrings by Mimi di N, rings by Schreiner.
At right: Sarmi golden jacquard silk one shoulder dress. Bracelet by Hattie Carnegie, earrings by Apex Art.

Larry Aldrich red and gold brocade cocktail dress edged in beaded embroidery. Sold for $225 in 1965 (about $1560 in today's dollar.) White mink bubble hat by Halston.

Evening Dresses - 1965

What a difference 10 years makes! Today, we continue our look at evening wear through the decades with the 1960s. Gone are the full skirted styles and tiny waists of 1955. In 1965, shapes are more relaxed and elaborate fabrics and trimmings abound. Sequins, beads and bangles. Brocades, embroideries, and heavy laces. Asian influences, pants, and the beginnings of op-art all show up. Oh, and don't forget the big, big hair! Enjoy these evening looks from 1965.

Right: Maurice Roger black gown covered in beads from head to toe.
Left: Jean Patou black silk chiffon with heavy Venice lace bodice.

Ted Lapidus elaborate brocade evening suit.

Pierre Cardin sequined gown with pop art dots.

Bill Blass for Maurice Rentner brocade backless top over pink evening pants.

Capucci op-art satin dress and jacket trimmed in ostrich feathers.

Is the 1960s your decade of choice?