The Making of Dior Haute Couture

Here's a little film to watch with your morning coffee. Take note of how many steps are involved and how many people it takes to produce this gorgeous dress from Dior Haute Couture Spring 2011. Enjoy!

Givenchy Dress - 1955

Hubert de Givenchy created this haute couture black silk taffeta dress for Spring 1955.  Having learned pattern drafting many years ago, I view this dress from a sewer's standpoint.  I can't look at this photo without wondering how in the world Givenchy made the fabric do what it does here and what do the pattern pieces for that skirt look like?  I'm sure the dress is built upon a stiff foundation so the skirt holds its bell shape.  There appear to be seams between the front buttoned panel and the draped side pieces.  That front panel probably falls straight to the hem and the side panels are pulled around to the front and sewn one on top of the other at the hem  And, even though you can't see them, I am sure those soft folds are held in place with hundreds of tiny invisible hand-worked stitches.  In the end, what looks like a dress with lots of movement and softness is actually just the opposite.  And that is one example of the art of couture.

Couture Stripes

If you've ever sewn with stripes, you know what a masterpiece this dress and jacket ensemble is.  Made by Paris couturier Marie-Louise Bruyere in 1955, the workmanship here astounds me.  Bruyere insets horizontally striped panels between the vertically striped ones from neckline to hips.  Each piece would have been individually cut by a master cutter to keep the stripes straight on the pattern piece.  Then each piece would have been fitted and sewn with extreme care to keep the stripes straight.  Those long vertical darts that give shape to the dress do not extend through the horizontally striped bands.  I cannot imagine the amount of hours it took to construct this marvel of design.  It's pure genius!

Paris Couture - 1938

Let's get back to our series on Paris couture from the 1930s.  Today, a look at evening gowns from 1938.  Which is your favorite?

Mainbocher uses gold lamé for the bodice of this bias-cut gown.  The matching cape is completely lined in lamé as well.  What an entrance maker!

Callot Soeurs gown in heavy Duchesse satin.  The bodice is red and the skirt is gray.  The waist and shoulders are covered in diamante rhinestones.  Note the corded hem.

Madeleine Vionnet halter gown in black silk velvet accented with red and purple flowers.

Lucien Lelong blue velvet one-shoulder gown with sapphire buttons down the side.

Germaine Lecomte strapless gown in red tulle with red and silver lace insets.

Nina Ricci black and gold velvet.  Note the perfect placement of the gold diamond design.

Marie-Paule black silk taffeta gown with rows of ruffles adorning the skirt.

Paris Couture - 1937

Today, the next in our continuing series about Paris couture in the 1930s.  The year is 1937 and the beauty is in the incredible details.  Which is your favorite?

Marcel Rochas black crepe dress adorned with light blue gathered ribbons.  Note the large holes at the neckline and sleeves that the ribbons thread through.

Charles Worth black velvet dress with intricate embroidery on the bodice.

Rosevienne dress in black knitted lace.  The skin shows through where the slip isn't!

Lucien Lelong black velvet dress with a white Guipure lace bodice.  Bows accent the lace.

Elsa Schiaparelli brings the ultimate in fun details.  The black crepe suit is accented with red embroidery around the pockets in the shape of lips.  And that is her famous shoe hat in black with a red heel.

Paris Couture Evening Gowns - 1936

Today, we'll continue our look at Paris couture from the 1930s with evening gowns from 1936.  Which is your favorite?

Madeleine Vionnet gown with white tulle ruffles.

Maggy Rouff red velvet tunic and skirt.  The tunic is completely smocked.

Elsa Schiaparelli red crepe gown with exclusive print in white.

Jean Patou black crepe with lace yoke and sleeves.

Lucien Lelong midnight blue jersey with gathers at one shoulder.

Window Shopping on Avenue Montaigne, Paris

On my recent trip to Paris, my dear husband indulged me with a stroll down the Avenue Montaigne for some window shopping. Of course, I had to bring you along. Click on the pictures for a larger view.

While the original Chanel flagship store is on Rue Cambon, the large store at 42 Avenue Montaigne is at the epicenter of arguably one of the most expensive shopping streets in the world.

The windows are tastefully decorated for Christmas, but the mannequins are wearing spring designs for 2011.

I fell in love with the Coco dolls in one window. We went inside the store to inquire about them, but they are not for sale. Karl designed them just for the windows of a few stores. I imagine they will be used as gifts for very important clients. Sigh.

Gianfranco Ferre window

Emilio Pucci window

The Christian Dior store occupies just as important a spot as Chanel on the Avenue Montaigne and has equally large and numerous windows.

Dior Haute Couture Cruise 2010/2010

Christian Dior gown completely covered in pearls and beads.

Christian Dior Haute Couture Cruise 2010/2011.

More tomorrow!

Paris Hats - 1945

October 1945. Paris was liberated the previous August and the final German surrender in Europe took place in late April. 6 months later, a French fashion magazine asks, "Sommes-Nous Prêts?". "Are You Ready?" for the return of la Haute Couture Parisienne?

In the fall of 1945, fashion was just beginning to emerge from the strictures of the war. The best Parisian milliners produced some magical hats to celebrate the rebirth of beauty and couture. Descriptions have been translated from the French.
Left: Jane Blanchot green velvet hood with otter fur back and pom-poms.
Right: J.-Suzanne Talbot braided felt and velvet tall hat with jewels at the front crown.

Left: Eneley Soeurs brown velvet with beige feathers.
Right: Germaine Bouché velvet with ferns and birds.

Left: Gilbert Orcel velvet with tartan fabric and feathers.
Right: Agnès brown felt decorated with imagination.

Left: Blanche et Simone black felt and velvet.
Right: Le Monnier high shape decorated with chiffon.

Left: Simone Cange black velvet with knit tulle.
Right: Sygur velvet toque with tropical birds.

Left: Claude St-Cyr tobacco brown felt with cock feathers.
Right: Nelly Levasseur velvet with ostrich plumes.

Left: Janette Colombier black velvet with heavenly feather plumes.
Right: Rose Valois brown felt with feathers.