Isabel Toledo Exhibit at FIT New York

Exit Penn Station in New York City on the 7th Avenue side. Turn right. Walk 6 1/2 short blocks to 27th Street. In front of you is the entrance to The Museum at FIT. Walk through the revolving glass doors and enter another world - a world devoted to fashion in all its glory. Best of all, it's free!

On Wednesday, the newest exhibit at the museum opened, "Isabel Toledo: Fashion From the Inside Out". While not well known to the masses before Michelle Obama wore her design for the Inauguration, Toledo is one of the most talented designers of our time. An accomplished seamstress, Toledo's work is described as highly experimental.

Spring 2005

Isabel Toledo was born in Cuba in 1961 and moved to New Jersey in her teens, where she met future husband and collaborator, Ruben Toledo. She attended FIT and Parsons School of Design, and presented her first collection in 1985.

1998

Toledo has an intimate understanding of garment construction and pattern design, which allows her to create unusual sculptural and innovative garments. Her work is destined to become highly collectible and will reside in museum collections for future generations to study and appreciate.



If you live in New York, or are planning a trip there this summer, I urge you to attend this retrospective exhibit, which showcases about 70 garments by Toledo. And yes, Michelle Obama's Inauguration Day outfit is included.

June 18 - Steal of a Deal

Today's Steal of a Deal is this gorgeous vintage 40's plaid wool suit. Original price $145.00. Today only, steal it at 50% off - $72.50.

Vintage Swimsuits 1948

A day late with our weekly summer swimsuit feature, but you'll still enjoy these suits from 1948.

Jacquard patterned knit in brown cotton/rayon/Lastex by Jantzen. Sold in 1948 for $9.95 (about $91.00 in today's dollar).

Shimmering satiny Lastex suits by Sea Goddess Originals. "Designed from a man's point of view...". The one piece was their "Golden Sands" model and the two piece was their "Breakers" model. The one piece sold in 1948 for $10.95 (about $100.00 in today's dollar). The two piece sold in 1948 for $8.95 (about $82.00 in today's dollar).
Cole of California was offering a collection of swimsuits in 1948 inspired by the Cole collection of California water color paintings. The suits shown above were made in mauve, emeraude, chrome yellow, scarlet lake, cobalt blue, white, and Cole black.

Catalina "Cattails" print in Celanese and Lastex boucle knit. Sold in 1948 for $15.00 (about $136.00 in today's dollar).

Of course, no self-respecting gal entered the water without her swim cap in those days. This one, by Kleinert's, had the Sava-Wave inner rim to keep water out and your curls in.

I've said it before, and I'll say it again. For the best selection of authentic vintage swimsuits on the web, you must visit Glamoursurf. Pam has an extensive collection of authentic 1940's swimsuits, including several that are similar to those shown here. She also has a great selection of vintage swim caps.

June 17 - Steal of a Deal

Today's Steal of a Deal is this vintage 50's strapless cotton bombshell dress with an unusual ruffled wing bust treatement. Original price - $165.00. Today only, steal it at 50% off - $82.50!

Claire Schaeffer - My Inspiration, My Friend

Claire Schaeffer models a 1960's Dior Pret-a-Porter jacket from my collection.

The internet is a wonderful thing. It has allowed me to make virtual connections with new friends all around the world. Yesterday, it allowed me to meet a woman who has been a source of inspiration to me for many years, Claire Schaeffer.

I first encountered Claire as a fashion design student. One of my instructors recommended Claire's Fabric Sewing Guide as a book that should be on the shelf of every serious sewer. As an experienced seamstress who was interested in learning more about couture and other fine sewing techniques, I soon added her Couture Sewing Techniques and High Fashion Sewing Secrets to my bookshelf, where they have been referred to many times over the years. Claire is a frequent contributor to Threads Magazine, and she has a line of patterns at Vogue. A few years ago, I was thrilled when Claire became a fellow member of the Vintage Fashion Guild, where we have enjoyed many online discussions about vintage clothing and couture techniques.

Claire has a fascination for haute couture. While she agrees that the final garment is important, it is the fine (and sometimes secret) sewing techniques that she strives to share with us. Over the years, she has visited museum archives and couture workrooms examining garments and interviewing designers, seamstresses and tailors. In so doing, she has become a modern expert on the "how to" of many haute couture techniques. She has also put together a collection of vintage couture garments that she uses for study and as examples for her books and classes.

Claire at her Palm Springs home with some of her collection of haute couture

This week, Claire had the opportunity to travel to Boston and yesterday, she spent time here with me in my office. We only had a couple of hours together, which was not nearly enough. I was left wanting so much more. I could listen to her stories and talk about vintage and couture with her for days and days without getting tired. She is a kindred spirit, one whom I never would have had the opportunity to meet without the internet. Come back soon, Claire!

June 16 - Steal of a Deal

Today's Super Steal of a Deal is this stunning 1960's evening gown with matching coat in vivid blue shantung. Original price - $165.00. Today only, super steal it at 75% off - $41.25.

Black Again?

There are those of us who, when dressing in the morning or shopping for something new, reach for black over and over because it's easy and safe. Because it's supposedly slimming. Because it goes with everything. Because it works. And that's OK.

Many of us who do wear black frequently, know that it is the perfect background canvas to showcase our favorite accessories. Whatever we wear as contrast will stand out, whether it be a bold piece of jewelry, a pop of a colorful cardigan, or a fabulous pair of shoes. What did you see first in the photo above? The cute pleated dress by B.H. Wragge from 1961? The brimmed straw hat? The black bangle bracelets? No? I'll bet you noticed the zebra striped belt and shoes, didn't you?

See what I mean?

June 15 - Steal of a Deal

Today's Steal of a Deal is this vintage 1950's silk cocktail dress by Wilson Folmar for Edward Abbott. Gorgeous cafe-au-lait silk chiffon with a copper brocade waist sash. Original price - $135.00. Today only, steal it for 50% off - $67.50.

Vintage Mommy & Me Dresses

Did you ever wear matching dresses with your mother or daughter? As far as I can remember, my mom never wore the same dress as I did, but she did dress me and my 4 sisters all alike every Easter. I'll have to dig out a photo for you someday. When my daughter was about 6 or 7, she and I wore matching dresses one spring. I searched high and low for the photo of us in those dresses, but I couldn't find it. I promise to post it once I do find it. I remember Sarah feeling so proud and grown up to be wearing a dress that matched mine. Was it a fashion faux pas? I didn't care. I would do almost anything to make my kids happy, and we sure did make an impression wherever we went!

These "mommy and me" fashions are from the Spring 1954 Simplicity pattern book. The pattern numbers are listed in case you want to search them out and make your own matching wardrobe! All patterns are by Simplicity.

Mom's dress - Pattern 4582. Daughter's dress - Pattern 4579.

Mom's dress - Pattern 4288. Daughter's dress - Pattern 4273.

Mom's dress - Pattern 4428. Daughter's dress - Pattern 4505.

Later this month, Oscar de la Renta will be offering little girl's dresses in sizes 2-6 to match some of the dresses from his Spring 2009 line. The dresses are made from the leftover fabrics from his women's line, and a portion of each dress sold will go to the Children's Defense Fund.
Cute, no? Would you wear a dress to match your daughter? Did you do this with your mom when you were little? Inquiring minds want to know!

In other news, Dany of Dame Vintage has bestowed the "One Lovely Blog Award" on Couture Allure. Thanks, Dany! I appreciate it!

June 14 - Steal of a Deal

Today's Steal of a Deal is this gorgeous vintage 1950's silk dress with a print of Buddha's. The dress features a plunging neckline and full circle skirt. Original price - $145.00. Today only steal it at 50% off - $72.50.

New at Couture Allure - Vintage Couture and Designer

New this week at the website are more vintage high end designer and couture pieces.

This 1970's orange wool suit is of the highest quality, and looks so elegant worn with the jacket.

Take off the jacket to reveal the elaborate and ornate belt that comes with this set! You have to click in to the listing to see a close-up photo of it. You won't be sorry!

If you follow me on Twitter, you've already seen this vintage 60's Chester Weinberg dress. This bright green floral print just makes me smile.


This beauty of a 1950's circle skirted party dress is from the exclusive Jay Thorpe boutique on W. 57th St. in New York.

Valentina, Ltd. was known for their beaded evening gowns. This vintage 70's set consists of a long tunic with side splits to the waist that reveal....

....matching beaded pants. Isn't it cool?

Another vintage 60's evening gown by California couturier Richard Tam. This gown is worked in luxurious silk satin and has a small train in back.

June 13 - Steal of a Deal

Today's Steal of a Deal is this vintage 1950's cotton dress with huge pockets. Original price - $95.00. Today only, steal it for $47.50!

Weekend Eye Candy - 1957 Roger Vivier for Dior Shoe

@1957 - Fuschia satin court shoe decorated with tiny bows and paste rhinestones was designed by Roger Vivier for Dior. Look at the shape of that heel!

June 12 - Steal of a Deal

Today's Steal of a Deal is this 1950's dress by Mr. Blackwell. The rhinestone choker is attached to the neckline of the dress with a series of rhinestone strands for a caged look. Original price - $135.00. Today only, steal it for $52.50, more than 50% off!

Guess Who?

Sometimes it's fun to find photos of young women who grow up to be famous in older fashion magazines. This photo is from 1940. Can you guess who it is? Answer when someone guesses or on Monday, whichever comes sooner. Have a great weekend!

June 11 - Steal of a Deal

Today's Steal of a Deal is this 1950's sheer cotton voile full skirted dress with it's original slip by Pat Hartley. Original price - $95.00. Today only, steal it for $47.50! Come on now! Where else are you going to find an authentic 1950's full skirted dress for less than $50!!!!!!!!

Donald Brooks - Fashion Innovator

The following photos were taken in Tunis in 1967 and appeared as part of a several page advertisement introducing the Kodak Instamatic Camera. All fashions are by Donald Brooks.

Donald Brooks began his design career in the mid 1950's working for a junior sportswear line called Darbury. Darbury was a relatively inexpensive line, but Brooks made the clothing look great by using unexpected fabrics for his designs. In 1959, Brooks moved to Townley, where he replaced the late Claire McCardell, and was able to use more expensive fabrics to design elegant clothing for daytime and luxurious fashions for evening.

After winning two Coty awards, Brooks opened his own company in 1965. With his own label, Brooks' signature look started to appear. He loved to use bold patterns and striking color combinations. He continued to be a style innovator and won another Coty award in 1970.

Brooks closed his business in 1973, but he continued to design with various licensing agreements, including loungewear for Maidenform. By the 1980's, Brooks produced custom garments, which he sold privately from his town house on East Seventieth Street in New York.

Through the years Brooks also designed costumes for the theatre, film, and television industries, for which he was nominated for several awards.

Brooks was cited by the New York Times as one of “the three B’s of fashion” alongside Geoffrey Beene and Bill Blass. He was one of Jackie Kennedy’s favorite designers.

Couture Allure is pleased to offer this iconic graphic print coat by Donald Brooks from the late 1960's.

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June 10 - Steal of a Deal

Today's Steal of a Deal is this vintage 50's wiggle dress in a floral print covered with matching sequins by Anne Starr. Original price - $105.00. Today only, steal it for $52.50.

1975 Teeny Bikinis All Covered Up

1975 - It's the height of popularity for the maxi dress. Long cover-ups for the beach, usually in matching fabric, are all the rage to pop over your tiny bikini.

I didn't know Estevez did swimwear, but this Resort Sport bikini and "moon robe" were his design. The cover-up can be worn knotted as a sarong dress, as shown, or tied as a halter. The print is of big pink roses on a green background in nylon/lycra. Sold for $72.00 (about $292.00 in today's dollar).

Leonard fashions a nylon kimono robe to wear over his matching nylon/lycra bikini. The set sold for $410.00 (about $1664.00 in today's dollar). That's a lot of money for nylon!

Sirena fashions a pin-stripe bikini with matching long t-shirt of polyester/rayon/silk knit. The set sold for $45.00 (about $183.00 in today's dollar).

Gottex of Israel offered these separates in a yellow and green floral print on brown nylon/lycra. The long wrap skirt could be worn over the deep plunge maillot or the bikini. The bikini/skirt set sold for $84.00 (about $341.00 in today's dollar). The maillot sold for $42.00 (about $170.00 in today's dollar).

Roxanne fashions a nylon/lycra bikini with matching beach pajamas in sheer nylon jersey. The set sold for $74.00 (about $300.00 in today's dollar).

June 9 - Steal of a Deal

Today's Steal of a Deal is this 1950's rayon gabardine suit with stylish white topstitching. Original price - $145.00. Today only, steal it for $72.50!