Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Vintage Coats - 1960s

Today, I am continuing my look at coats through the years with the 1960s. The 60s was a decade of great changes in fashion from the ladylike looks of the Kennedy era, to the Mod years, and then to the beginnings of the Hippie influences. You'll see all of that today.

Dan Millstein copy of a Nina Ricci design in 1961.

As we saw last week in the late 1950s, the cocoon style coat started to become popular. This look was usually reserved for high fashion and couture. Instead of the coat flaring out from narrow shoulders, the volume starts at the shoulders with the sleeves cut as part of the body of the coat. Underarms are very deep, almost nonexistent. You would think this style would be shapeless, but these coats were beautifully tailored and served to accent the slimness of the body underneath. In fact, heavy tailoring is found up until the late 60s.

In this 1961 coat by Zelinka-Matlick, you can see that that deep underarm.

If you didn't wear high fashion, you had one of these coats - a straight or slightly flared cut with a wedding ring collar that closed up around the face with hooks. This style was so popular, that these coats are still very easy to find today.

1963 tweed coat with matching hat by Originala

By 1963, coat shapes become much less voluminous and are cut closer to the body. Tailoring is key and seams are often highlighted with top-stitching to accent the shape of the coat. Many manufacturers offered coats with matching dresses. Plaids and tweeds are popular, along with the new wool/silk blend shantungs and alaskines.

Here, you can see the result of tailoring. This coat is quite stiff and could probably stand up on it's own. This coat by Harry Frechtel is from 1965.

By 1965-66, the Mod movement starts to affect high fashion. Here, Originala uses wild graphic prints in two coats from 1965.

A 1966 coat from St. Laurent shows the popular top-stitching. Big buttoned flap pockets give a hint of Mod whimsy.

Mod era coats become shorter and we find unusual closures. Here, from 1967, Don Simonelli closes a blue wool mini coat with silver buckles.

By 1969, styles have changed radically. The hippie influence is felt on the Paris runways. Huge capes are all the rage. Palacio offered this navy blue cape lined in red and green striped velvet.

Maxi and midi lengths in coats were popular with women, but not men! Here a Ginala maxi coat from 1969 in black wool has a capelet collar. The inset shows the influence of the film Dr. Zhivago in a maxi coat by Cuddlecoat trimmed in silver fox fur.

7 comments:

Good Girls Studio said...

So lovely! I have several vintage coats that I got for a steal at a thrift store, big boxy plaid & a swingy boucle wool with fur collar!

Di said...

the 5th one reminds me of Audrey :)

Belle de Ville said...

The red and green with the matching hat...a little Christmas-y but I love it!

Lesley Ann said...

In the 60's my aunt Susan had a gorgeous blue wool cape and wore black leather gloves with it! There is a picture of she and I somewhere in my pile of us together and she is wearing it.

Vicki said...

I love this look. Not practical in the Northern Minnesota cold but I may be able to pull this off in Texas!

Tom Tuttle from Tacoma said...

now these are really something. the women looked so good.

amy said...

what an array! beautiful!!! great blog, too :)
-amy

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