Saturday, October 01, 2011

Weekend Eye Candy - Jacques Heim, 1953

Jacques Heim Haute Couture, Fall 1953.  How did he get the skirt to fall in those wonderful rounded shapes? At first I thought perhaps the skirt was attached to the lining at intervals to make those "tube" shapes.  But no, you can see this is not so at the right side of the photo where the model is holding the skirt out.  I would love to see the inner construction of this dress, wouldn't you?  And how about those long, long gauntlet gloves?

 Another view of the same dress.

UPDATE:  Thank you to commenter Victoria of Love Fashion Love Vintage.  These are called organ pleats because of the way they resemble the pipes on an organ.  While I agree that this fabric has body, I don't think it is a heavy velvet or corduroy.  And while there is likely some type of inner stiffening, the shape of the pleats cannot come from that alone, else the skirt would just flare out and not fall into those rounded shapes.  You can see in the second photo that each pleat is a separate gore.  And if you could see the inner construction of the skirt, you would likely find some type of tape sewn from gore seam to gore seam at the upper third of the skirt.  The tape would be smaller in circumference than the skirt itself and would hold the lovely rounded shapes up and away from it.  Does that make sense?

9 comments:

K.Line said...

That is a really good question! Could it be the hand of the fabric with some serious sew in interfacing (like horse hair)?

The Style Crone said...

Always love your weekend eye candy!

Toby Wollin said...

Here's what I think: Just below the dropped waist seam, what they have done is loosely tied/sewn together with a very long stitch (like, with multiple lengths of thread perhaps chained together)the insides of folds of material. I once had a felt hat where the shaping in the top of the crown was done like that.

Miss Rayne said...

I would think its a strong interlining (like horsehair) which is cut in the same pieces as the skirt and sewn with the skirt as one piece of fabric.

Lillgull said...

I have seen a 50s bejewelled satin circleskirt padded on the inside with a type of thick sturdy interfacing. It felt a little bit like "Vliesofix". That skirt bellowed like this skirt, and kept the appearance of stiffness even without a petticoat! I think the whole impression of this skirt is that it is made of some serious thick luxurious fabric.

I think it depends on the lightness and quality of the fabric what you need to support the weight of it. Maybe it´s a combination of horsehair braids and a thick adhesive interfacing.
Beautiful eye candy anyway! Thanks!

Victoria said...

My guess would be the fabric itself is rather thick, appears to be a wide corduroy or velvet corduroy in 8 panels and pleated. And a crinoline underneath.

Victoria said...

Evolution vintage has a post on pleats, and it appears these would be called organ pleats http://evolutionvtg.blogspot.com/2011/09/just-pleat-it.html

PuppyLovePrincess said...

WOW. absolutely gorgeous...

Couture Allure Vintage Fashion said...

Thank you to Victoria for that link. These are indeed organ pleats!

Post a Comment