Diana Vreeland Puts St. Laurent on the Cover of Vogue - 1963

April, 1963.  Diana Vreeland is making her influence known at Vogue magazine, where she was hired the previous year.  Sometime during 1963, Vreeland took over as Editor-in-Chief from Jessica Daves, though her name would not show up on the masthead as such until sometime in the spring of 1964.  Until March or April of 1964, Daves is listed on the masthead as Editorial Advisor and Vreeland's name is not listed at all.  But I digress.

Diana Vreeland was an early champion of the work of Yves St. Laurent, after he opened his own couture house in 1962.  In her efforts to bring a more youthful vibe to the pages of Vogue magazine, she featured St. Laurent's fresh take on fashion frequently.

For the cover of the April 15, 1963 issue of Vogue, Jean Shrimpton wears Yves St. Laurent's polka dotted silk evening gown with separate beaded top.

In the same issue, St. Laurent is given a full page color image of another of his evening looks in the editorial spread, "Paris - When it Shimmers."  Vreeland calls the two piece evening dress "ravishing."  And she features St. Laurent's look one page ahead of Dior's linen daytime dress.  Oh la la!

Both images by William Klein for Vogue, April 1963.

A Rare 1954 Documented Jacket by Claire McCardell

When I found this Claire McCardell jacket, I recognized it immediately as being featured on the cover of the May 1954 issue of Harper's Bazaar magazine, a magazine I have in my archives.

While Bazaar calls it a bateau-neck shirt, this garment is really a kimono styled jacket that is open in the front.  I can just see Diana Vreeland telling the model to "put in on backwards" for the photo shoot! Perfect to wear over a swimsuit or with a simple black dress or pants, this piece bears the rare Claire McCardell Pieces label and was originally sold at Lord & Taylor.

The jacket is ingeniously cut in parallelogram shaped pieces and there is a 6" gap between the front opening edges when it is laid flat. The fact that McCardell juxtaposed the very angular geometric shape with polka dots delights me! If it didn't have the labels and the documentation, I'd swear the jacket was from the 1980s.  That's how forward-thinking McCardell was.  She made simple, unfussy clothing in great fabrics.  All of her garments are still relevant and completely wearable today.

Now that you know the shape of the jacket flat, look at the cover photo once again.  As the model is posed, the jacket is completely gaping open in the back!  It can't be clipped or pinned together.  If it was, the bottom hem wouldn't flare out as it is.

This rare Claire McCardell Pieces jacket is now available at Couture Allure.  Check it out to see lots more photos!  For another interesting perspective on the styling of this jacket for Vogue, check out Jonathan's post about it on his blog Kickshaw Productions.

Before They Were on the Ed Sullivan Show

Diana Vreeland famously became an authority on people and places that were happening in her "People are Talking About..." column in Vogue magazine.  Before The Beatles appeared on "The Ed Sullivan Show" 50 years ago today, they were featured in Vreeland's column in the January 1, 1964 issue of Vogue.  This full page portrait was taken by London writer and photographer Peter Laurie.  The band had just played a gig in Northampton and the flowers were collected from the stage where young female fans had thrown them.  It was the first portrait of The Beatles published in an American magazine...a full month before they were on Ed Sullivan.

Madeleine de Rauch Evening Gown - 1955

Pale blue satin with a wide gray satin sash at the waist.  Blouson bodice over a full length buttoned skirt.  Long sleeves and a wide, wide neckline.  Gown by Madeleine de Rauch, Fall/Winter Couture 1955.  Earrings by Arpad add just the right amount of zing. 

Photo by Richard Avedon for Harper's Bazaar, 1955
Model, Dovima
Fashion editor, Diana Vreeland.

Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has To Travel

I finally watched the film "Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has To Travel" last night.  To watch this film is to "get" me and my fascination with fashion in the 1940s, 50s, and 60s.  To watch this film is to understand the allure of vintage clothing from those eras.  To watch this film is to see why today's fast fashion is such a tragedy.  The film is now available to watch for free on Amazon Prime if you are a subscriber.  It is also available on DVD.  I urge you to watch it, then watch it again.

And, as Diana says, please, "Don't be boring!"

Vreeland and Scavullo - Bazaar 1960

Diana Vreeland was Fashion Editor at Harper's Bazaar from 1937 to 1962. Known for her meticulous attention to detail, the fashion shoots she directed delivered fantasy to the American public. She has been quoted as saying, "Give ‘em what they never knew they wanted!” It works for me because I definitely want to be this woman right now. I am so tired of winter.

This photo was taken by Francesco Scavullo in Trinidad and Tobago in 1960. The model wears a white pique midriff-baring blouse over a long red and white cotton wrap skirt, both by Mr. Mort Sportswear. The Weiss bib necklace and the brooch-as-hair-ornament add just the right touch of the exotic. But it's the bare feet that make me feel the warm tropical breeze and the hot sand on the beach. Oh yeah, I definitely want to be this woman right now.