Adele Simpson Ensemble - 1964

You know I love Bergdorf ads.  But it's the outfit here that catches my imagination.  From 1964, the Adele Simpson rayon sheath dress with interesting seaming is set off with a matching capelet.  The cape was lined in contrasting silk and the set came with a leather tie belt in the same color as the cape lining.  The color combinations were wonderful: navy with vivid green lining and belt, sea green with turquoise, gold nugget with black or black with gold nugget.  The set sold for $160 in 1964 (about $1220 in today's dollar.)

Which color would you choose? 

Before They Were on the Ed Sullivan Show

Diana Vreeland famously became an authority on people and places that were happening in her "People are Talking About..." column in Vogue magazine.  Before The Beatles appeared on "The Ed Sullivan Show" 50 years ago today, they were featured in Vreeland's column in the January 1, 1964 issue of Vogue.  This full page portrait was taken by London writer and photographer Peter Laurie.  The band had just played a gig in Northampton and the flowers were collected from the stage where young female fans had thrown them.  It was the first portrait of The Beatles published in an American magazine...a full month before they were on Ed Sullivan.

Roxanne Swimsuit - 1964

Who says you need a teeny bikini or a skin tight swimsuit to be sexy?  The blouson bodice was all the rage in 1964.  Here, Roxanne Swimsuits translates that fashion trend into a smoldering hot swimsuit in nylon.  That blouson outer layer floats over a fitted lining and the sash tie adds just the right touch. 

Guy Laroche Coat - 1964

I'm not a fan of hoods.  In fact, I won't buy a coat that has a hood unless I can remove it by way of a zipper or snaps.  I think they are messy and bulky, they just get in the way.  But, I am a huge fan of this hood!  Guy Laroche designed this coat for his Fall 1964 collection.  With it came this separate hood that extends into a short capelet.  I think it's the perfect answer for those nasty winter days when you want to look good but need protection at the same time.  Do you love it as much as I do?

Weekend Eye Candy - Ben Reig and Adolfo, 1964

Since we've been looking at Adolfo all week, I thought you might like to see this image taken at the Arctic Circle in 1964.  The model is wearing a white silk faille cape with mink edged hood by Ben Reig.  Adolfo made the silver sequined hood and Viola did the silver sequined gloves.  The composition of this photo, taken by John Cowan is superb in every way, don't you think?

Norman Norell Cocktail Dress - 1964

This gorgeous black silk cocktail dress by Norman Norell looks just as modern today as when it was made in 1964.  I love everything about it........except what is that thing in her hair?

Ann Margret and Elvis

Can't you just feel the electricity between Ann Margret and Elvis?  This is a publicity still for the movie "Viva Las Vegas."  The two began a widely publicized affair during the filming of the movie, which was a big box office hit in 1964.

I think you'll enjoy this musical number, "What'd I Say?"  There's great dancing and great fashion!

Adele Simpson Dress and Capelet - 1964

I always enjoy these ads from Bergdorf Goodman.  The artwork is superb and the wording is beautifully descriptive.  Today, "The Capelet Costume" from February, 1964.  Sold for $160 (about $1,170 in today's dollar.)

"The Capelet Costume...full-of-flair and elegant bravado.  Watch this shape-in-the-news sweep South and into Spring '64, a beautiful balance of crisply-controlled width and eased slenderness.  Adele Simpson flings the breezy little silk-lined cape over a dress of matching rayon Fibranne, its waistline lashed with a sliver of leather.  Navy with vivid green lining and belt, sea green with turquoise, gold nugget with black or black with gold nugget.  Sizes 6 to 16.  From our Plaza Collections, Fourth Floor."

I do think I'd have to choose sea green with turquoise lining and belt.  How about you?

Jane Derby Dress - 1964

Jane Derby was a designer of high end ready-to-wear.  Oscar de la Renta took over design duties at the company in 1965 right before Derby's death.  This dress from the spring of 1964 is likely one of her last designs.  The simple sheath dress with matching overblouse are fashioned of lilac cotton blend cloqué.  Sold for $125 in 1964 (about $913 in today's dollar.)  The fantastical hat is by Emme.

How to Wear Polka Dots

Dear Readers:  Your blog hostess is in need of a break.  This week, I will be republishing random posts from the last 5 years.  As always, your comments and suggestions are very welcome.  Thank you for being here!

Polka dots - you probably either love 'em or hate 'em, but anyone can wear them. This perennial print has a tendency to look juvenile if not done right, though. Here are a few tips for wearing dots without looking too "dotty".

- Mix it up. This dress works because it uses two different sizes of dots. With this mix, the print avoids becoming overwhelming.
- Add solid color accessories. The solid black belt breaks up the dots and adds just the right touch. And guess where your eye is drawn? To your tiny waist.

- Smaller dots work better for dressier styles. The bow blouse at left would look silly in larger dots.
- Or break up polka dots with solids to tone it down. The green dotted dress would be far too much without the white vest worn over it.

- Wear dots in spring and summer. Somehow, polka dots just work better in warmer weather. They're bright and cheery and they send off a more casual vibe.
- Think color! Dots don't have to be white. Orange on purple works great for a casual summer shift. Pink on yellow makes a great swimsuit. Stick with two colors, though, to avoid looking clownish.

All fashions made from McCall's patterns in 1964.

Outrageous Furs, 1964

I am a firm believer that if you chose to wear fur, you should always chose vintage. That keeps coats and stoles already in existence out of our landfills and at the same time doesn't support the unneeded slaughter of today's animals for fashion. In showing images of vintage furs on this blog, I hope to inspire you and show you how beautiful they can be for the modern woman. These outrageous and unusual furs are all from 1964.

Ankle length Saga mink fur coat worn with a matching fur hood by Adolfo. Booties by Herbert Levine.

Saga Norwegian blue fox tunic worn over gray satin stretch pants. Silver sequined boots by Herbert Levine.

Revillon mink lounge dress for at-home wear.

Eric Lund gray squirrel fur tunic dress.

A long, long stole made from varying colors of Emba mink fur pelts worn over a silk chiffon gown by Hannah Troy.

Weekend Eye Candy - Guy Laroche, 1964

I showed this gown a while ago on the Couture Allure Facebook page, but I wanted to share it again. This is one of my all time favorite vintage dresses and I would faint if I ever found it. White lace is covered in mink puff balls. Guy Laroche, 1964.

Mad Men Season 4 Fashion Prediction

Season 4 of Mad Men starts this Sunday, July 25 on AMC!!! If you love Mad Men as much as I do, you've been dying for any and all details, but this year AMC is keeping a tight lid on things. I guess even the cast doesn't know what will happen until they show up for rehearsal. If we assume that things will pick up right where they left off with Don starting his own agency, then the show will be set in 1964 this year. Mon dieu, I only have 2 magazines from 1964 in my collection. That is a situation I must correct! In the meantime, I thought I'd give you a taste of what was going on in fashion in 1964, so you have an idea of what to expect from Betty, Joan, and all the gals.


In 1964, the sheath dress reigns supreme. Full skirted styles are completely gone from fashion magazines, and I think they will play less of a role on the show this year. Even though fashion magazines don't show them, it takes a couple of years for real women to catch up, so I'm sure we'll see one or two, especially on Betty.

You may see some pleated styles, but those skirts will not be worn with crinolines.

The look is simple and elegant with less emphasis on the waist. Expect to see dresses that skim the body from shoulder to hem. Blouson bodices over fitted skirts are also popular.

Architectural seaming was made popular by Jackie Kennedy. Expect to see influences from her fashion sense on the show this year, especially on Betty.

Tailored garments with simple lines will also point to Jackie's ongoing influence.

Cowl necklines, stand-away collars, and rolled collars are very popular, as are abstract prints. Keep in mind, however, that you probably wont' see many hats on the show this year. Even though magazines are still showing them, younger women like Betty, Joan, and Peggy consider them old fashioned by 1964.

Suits are important, with boxy jackets over slim skirts.

Expect to see lots of pretty blouses worn with skirts or slim pants...

....and kitten heeled shoes!

Evening gowns will have simple cuts with empire or raised waistlines. Hair is becoming pouffier and we might see some blue eyeshadow or pale lipstick.....maybe.

Be patient through the commercial at the beginning. It's worth it!

Weekend Eye Candy - June Bride, 1964

Jacques Griffe uses exquisite lace for this bridal gown from 1964.

Photo by Jean-Claude Peretz.

Big Hair - 1964

It's been awhile since I've given you big hair inspiration. Today, for your enjoyment, hairstyles from 1964 and 1965.





Which one is your favorite?

Floral Printed Lingerie - 1964

Warner's bra and girdle

Printed lingerie is quite common today, but in the early 60s, bras, panties, slips, and girdles in pretty floral prints were a new and revolutionary idea. Women could be just as pretty underneath their clothes as they were on the outside. And who wouldn't want to wear these spring floral prints instead of plain old white? These images are all from 1964.

Saramae nylon half slip with scalloped hem

Lejaby print bra with lace

Gotham chemise slip with lace edges

Formfit-Rogers bra and slip in black and white poppy print

Triumph International all-in-one corset with pale gray and blue print

The trick to wearing printed lingerie? Don't wear it under white or pale colors if you don't want show through! And did you know, if you're wearing white, you should wear flesh colored lingerie. A white bra or white panties will be glaringly visible under white clothing.

Bob Bugnand

Bob Bugnand (pronounced boon-yon) worked as the chief designer for Jacques Heim and Robert Piquet before opening his own couture workroom in Paris. In 1957, he opened a salon on East 62nd Street in New York, where he took custom orders from society women. Customers were measured and chose the design and fabrics they wanted. The order was then shipped by air to Paris where the dress was made in Bugnand's French workrooms. Within three weeks, the customer’s dress arrived back in New York for final fittings. Bugnand's New York salon was a great success, as it gave American women the opportunity to wear French workmanship without having to travel to Paris. Prices for his garments ranged from $300 – $1000 in 1957 ($2310 - $7699 in today's dollar). Bugnand’s creations were worn by the Duchess of Windsor, Babe Paley, and Jacqueline Kennedy, among others. He was accepted into the French haute couture Chambre Syndicale in 1960.

In 1962, Bugnand began a collaboration with Sam Friedlander, a wholesale dress manufacturer. He designed the majority of Friedlander’s cocktail and evening dresses, which featured couture caliber trims on moderately priced dresses that sold for $90 – $375 ($645 - $2686 in today's dollar).

Please note: Biographical information about Bob Bugnand is copyright of Couture Allure and may not be copied without permission.

The dress shown above was one of Bugnand's designs for Friedlander in 1964. The apricot colored silk is embroidered with white dots and six layers of silk form the deep ruffles at the neckline.

Jackie Kennedy wears a 1959 Bugnand suit during her husband's Presidential campaign.

Chanel Dress - 1964

Chanel fashions were rarely featured in the pages of Vogue in the 1960s, despite the fact that ads for Chanel perfumes are found in every issue, and despite the fact that editor in chief Diana Vreeland wore Chanel frequently. I don't know why that is, but here is a rare exception from 1964. Click on the photo to enlarge so you can see the details. Coco Chanel herself was the designer of this dress. In fact, she was the designer for the company right up to the time of her death in 1971. Black silk is quilted in a plaid pattern, then cut on the bias. The dress wraps in the front and the edges are all adorned with black silk chiffon ruffles. A large peacock brooch sits at the waist. Trés feminine, no?

Pretty Peignoir

Do you feel pretty when you lounge in the evening or go to bed at night? When is the last time you donned something to wear at home that made you feel beautiful? And whatever happened to the peignoir set?

Delicate pink flowers adorn this nightgown and matching robe by Rogers from 1964. Who wouldn't feel pretty when wearing this in the boudoir?

On Wearing Polka Dots

Polka dots - you probably either love 'em or hate 'em, but anyone can wear them. This perennial print has a tendency to look juvenile if not done right, though. Here are a few tips for wearing dots without looking too "dotty".

- Mix it up. This dress works because it uses two different sizes of dots. With this mix, the print avoids becoming overwhelming.
- Add solid color accessories. The solid black belt breaks up the dots and adds just the right touch. And guess where your eye is drawn? To your tiny waist.

- Smaller dots work better for dressier styles. The bow blouse at left would look silly in larger dots.
- Or break up polka dots with solids to tone it down. The green dotted dress would be far too much without the white vest worn over it.

- Wear dots in spring and summer. Somehow, polka dots just work better in warmer weather. They're bright and cheery and they send off a more casual vibe.
- Think color! Dots don't have to be white. Orange on purple works great for a casual summer shift. Pink on yellow makes a great swimsuit. Stick with two colors, though, to avoid looking clownish.

All fashions made from McCall's patterns in 1964.