Jean Patou - 1947

This gorgeous evening gown was designed by Jean Patou in the spring of 1947.  Sparkling gold sequins cover the strapless bodice and glimmer over the pale blue tulle skirt.  A dress like this must have captured the imagination of every woman in Paris after years of war and deprivation. The color combination inspires me today.  What does the gown say to you?

Faces of the Paris Couturiers, Part 2

You know their names, but what about their faces? In day 2 of a 3 part series, here are the faces of the French Couture from 1950.

Mme. Gres

Jacques Griffe

Marcel Rochas

Molyneux

Jean Patou

Marie-Blanche de Polignac, daughter of Jeanne Lanvin

Marie-Louise Bruyere

All photos by George Saad for L'art et la Mode

Weekend Eye Candy - Jean Patou, 1929

One final Autumn Inspiration in our series this week.  Jean Patou created this black rayon suit trimmed in mink for his fall 1929 collection.

Autumn Inspirations, 1969

Pierre Cardin, Fall 1969

 Brrrrrr!  This morning it is 10 degrees cooler than yesterday, so I've taken a step back 10 years from yesterday's autumn inspirations to show you designer fashion from the fall of 1969.  It was one of those wonderful years when hemlines could be mini, midi, maxi or anywhere in between and you would still be in style.  Enjoy!

Christian Dior, Fall 1969

Jean Patou, Fall 1969

Jean Patou Ball Gown, 1957

Jean Patou haute couture ball gown, 1957.  Strapless black lace re-embroidered with satin ribbons.  Simply divine.

Michel Goma for Patou, 1968

I blogged about Michel Goma a couple of weeks ago, and since then I keep running into images of his incredible clothes.  This purple silk dress with huge flared sleeves is by Goma for Jean Patou in 1968.  Those sleeves are fitted to the elbow and then flare out into a huge bell.  Necklace is also by Patou.  Love.

Weekend Eye Candy - Jean Patou, 1950

Remember when you were little and your mom would dress you in red and green plaid for Christmas?  This is how grown up girls do plaid.  Dress by Jean Patou, 1950.

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Weekend Eye Candy - Jean Patou, 1960

Pink lace by Jean Patou, Spring 1960.  How I wish this photo was in color.

Weekend Eye Candy - Jean Patou, 1924

Jean Patou called this dress from 1924 "The Scheherazade,"  If you could see it in color you would know why.  Gold metallic lace is covered in turquoise and other multi-colored stones.  It probably weighed a ton, but who cares when you can look like this?

Weekend Eye Candy - Jean Patou, 1954

It's not too early to think about what you'll be wearing to holiday parties this year.  While most of us don't have formal galas or red carpet events to attend, we can dream.  Jean Patou designed this silk satin ballgown in 1954.  The voluminous skirt is gathered into a buckle at the waist. 

Paris Frocks - 1930

A reader has requested more posts about garments from the 1930s and 40s.  Today, a look at daytime dresses and suits from Parisian designers in the spring of 1930.  You can see in these examples that the dropped waist of the 20s is moving back to the natural waistline of the 30s. Are you as much in love as I am with these?

Jean Patou blue and white tweed tissue wool suit with a linen and lace blouse.  Can you see the bracelet handle on the purse?
 

Elsa Schiaparelli wears a dress of her own design in black silk crepe backed satin.  The front skirt drape was new and "of the moment".

Two polka dotted silk crepe de chine daytime dresses by J. Suzanne Talbot.

Cecile Welly wool tweed suit accented with a black fur collar.  Puppy dog not included.

Lousieboulanger silk crepe de chine afternoon dress.

Dupont Orlon and Paris Couture

Yes, Dupont, the company that brings you "Better things for better living...through chemistry" took out a multi-page advertisement in the spring of 1969 featuring it's Orlon acrylic blend fabrics used by Paris couturiers.

The 1960s were known for technological advances and the use of synthetic materials in avante-garde fashion. We saw the use of vinyl, mylar, and other synthetics. By the late 60s, the traditional couture client was becoming a thing of the past. Ready-to-wear was experiencing an explosion of popularity. Dupont seized upon the opportunity to promote it's man-made fibers to the couturiers and to benefit from the status that link provided. And, no doubt, money exchanged hands as part of the deal.

Here, Paris couture from the spring of 1969.

Castillo navy and white plaid 3 piece suit in wool and Orlon acrylic blend.

Jeanne Lanvin black and white glen plaid coat in wool/Orlon acrylic blend.

Jean Patou white and yellow jumpsuit and jacket in double faced gabardine in a blend of Orlon acrylic and wool.


Madeleine de Rauch pink coat in double faced gabardine in a blend of wool and Orlon acrylic.

Phillipe Venet white and navy plaid 7/8 coat in double-faced gabardine of wool and Orlon acrylic.

Evening Dresses - 1925

Later this week, the holiday party season begins. Have you been invited to one, two, or more soirees? This week and next, we'll look at evening wear through the decades. I hope you'll be inspired to dress up and make a lasting impression on your fellow party-goers. Let's all end 2010 with some glamour, OK?

In the 1920s evening dresses are mid-calf in length and hang straight from the shoulders to the hem. The waistline is dropped and evening dresses are normally sleeveless. Delicate silk chiffons and crepes abound, often decorated with lace or elaborate beading. Enjoy these looks from 1925.

A beaded silk dress is worn with a dramatic feathered headpiece.

Lucien Lelong navy silk trimmed in lace at the skirt and flowers at the dropped waist.

Sheer gold lace and tulle float over a silk crepe underslip.

This dress has an elaborate beaded bird on the front and fringe at the hem.

Jean Patou adorns the skirt of this dress with flowers
and ropes of the same flowers hang from one shoulder.

Is the 1920s your decade of choice?

Mad For Plaid - 1972

It's 1972 and the whole world is mad for plaid. Plaid coats, plaid suits, plaid skirts, plaid pants. Plaid, plaid, plaid!

Get Gaston Jaunet wool plaid coat with cape style sleeves.

At left: Webe plaid overcoat with detachable capelet.
At right: Redine Loubens herringbone wool cape and knickers.

Dormeuil tartan plaid pant suit with bell bottoms.

At left: Boutique Nina Ricci plaid wool jacket worn over black pleated dress.
At right: Jean Patou Boutique bias cut wool coat with kimono sleeves.

Pierre Balmain Boutique fuzzy wool coat with capelet.

Paris Couture Evening Gowns - 1961

On the Paris Couture runways for spring of 1961, the favorite look for evening was anything but black. Lots of white and pastel shades were shown, and ethereal floating chiffons in floral prints were also wildly popular. Here are a few evening gowns for your enjoyment.

Mme. Grès slim-fitting gown in lime-yellow silk crepe with floating hip-length panels at the front and back.

Jean Patou slim-fitting sleeveless gown of white silk surah with big black polka dots. The matching jacket has black mink fur cuffs.

Jean Dessès silk chiffon evening gown in a yellow, orange, and white floral print. The gown is low-cut and fitted and has a floating wrap that is crossed and wraped at the shoulders.

Pierre Balmain two piece set. The silk marquisette top is covered with gold embroidery, coral beads, and rhinestones. It is worn with a white silk chiffon skirt.

One of the few black dresses for evening 1961 by Jacques Heim. Narrowly pleated black silk chiffon falls from a straight strapless neckline and has a wide black satin sash at the waist.

Paris Couture - 1966

How about a little Parisian couture from the Fall of 1966 today? Yes, I thought so.

Left: Christian Dior black silk crepe dinner dress with a wide band of silver sequins at the empire waist and at the same level on the upper arm. The long sleeves are slit to the wrist.
Right: Christian Dior black silk crepe evening gown with cut-outs at the back accented with diamanté ball buttons.

This cut-out style was destined to be copied by nearly everyone. I've sold numerous 1960's cocktail dresses with interesting cut-outs at the back. This is the original.

Lanvin black silk crepe evening gown is circled in stripes of pink, acid green, and black sequins at the bodice. Interesting squared-off armholes.

Patou coatdress in cream double-faced wool that has been cut on the bias. Welted seams tame the bias. Worn with ribbed tights, kidskin boots, and a wool cap over a silk head scarf.

Left: Philippe Venet back wrap coat in neon yellow brushed wool fleece.
Right: Philippe Venet back wrap coat in cream wool fleece. Has a belt and a slit at the front hem.

OK, I have to comment on these coats. They close in the back. Interesting, but I can just see myself trying to figure out how the heck this was worn if I ever found one of these at an estate. I would more than likely have put it on the mannequin backwards and wondered why it wasn't falling correctly and why the pockets were on the back!

Yves St. Laurent grey wool coat with a flared fit and big silver disc buttons.

Yves St. Laurent black wool coat fitted at the bodice and flaring below the waist. Accented with big gold disc buttons.

Art Meets Jean Patou

By now, you probably know that, in addition to being a vintage clothing fiend, I am an art fanatic. This morning, I was flipping through the pages of a Vogue magazine from 1962, and came across this image. I love it when two of my favorite things mesh so beautifully. In the photo above, taken by Helmut Newton, the model wears an evening gown made from Vogue pattern 1153, designed by Jean Patou and sewn in a gorgeous floral silk.

Love that open back. And the fact that it has a little jacket to match? Perfect for day-to-date in the shorter version.

That wooden structure the model is draped across? It's a sculpture by European artist Martha Pan. It was shown at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris as part of the 1962 exhibit "Antagonismes", which was devoted to objects for the new "art of living". The floating sculpture was designed as a diving board for a lake in the Kröller-Muller Museum's sculpture garden in Otterlo, Netherlands.

I can't find much information in English about Martha Pan, but there are several images of her sculpture if you Google her. Most seems to be for outdoor spaces, including this one in Paris.

The Kröller-Muller sculpture garden underwent renovation in the early 1990's. This Martha Pan sculpture is now the one that floats in the lake. Perhaps the wooden one needed to be replaced? Wouldn't that Patou gown also look great draped on this one?