Cruise Advertisements 1939

Ah, yes, Town & Country magazine - a periodical owned by Hearst that focuses on society's upper class. Read by socialites and café society. A magazine that features luxury goods, arts, culture, and the latest galas and events. And a magazine that is full of advertisements for travel. In 1939, the mode of travel abroad was via cruise ship, and there are many ads for cruising to various places.

Keep in mind, though, that in 1939, Hitler had been in power in Germany for 5 years. Dachau concentration camp had already been built, and Jews were being persecuted. At the time this April 1939 issue of Town & Country was published, the Nazis had already taken over Austria and Czechoslovakia, and it was just 5 months until they would invade Poland. War was imminent, and the world was worried.

I would imagine that cruise lines were hurting for business, and there are several full page ads for cruises to various places. Here are just a few:

Cruise to Hawaii and the South Seas, including Australia and New Zealand. Ladies, you can wear your new orange rayon jumpsuit and sandals on deck. Yes, pants on a woman in 1939! And a cruise to Hawaii was quite safe, at least until the Japanese bombed Pearl Harbor 2 1/2 years later.....

Travel to sunny Bermuda via cruise ship or plane ( a fast 5 hours from New York). Here you can loll about on the sand and forget the troubles of the world for awhile.

The Hamburg-American Line was probably getting a bit desperate to fill their cruise ships to Europe. Here they show men and women in full formal dress enjoying an evening in a luxurious dining room. Everyone seems to be having a good time. "Nine great ships provide luxury, speed, comfort, in frequent sailings with arrivals of clocklike precision in Endland, Ireland, France, Germany." Uh, no thanks.

Perhaps the scariest of all, Germany takes out a full page ad promoting the pleasure and sporting fun to be had there. If you click on the picture, you can probably read the propoganda that extols the virtues of a trip to Germany, and get 60% off railway fares! Of course, we have the advantage of history and knowing what happened, but can you imagine anyone wanting to travel to Germany at this time? I find it very unsettling looking at these ads 80 years later, don't you?

1963 Fashion

I'm on the run today, my friends! I'm headed to the Vintage Fashion and Textile Show in Sturbridge this morning and am racing against the clock. Today, I'm going to leave you with some vintage fashion inspiration from 1963. Enjoy!

Double-faced apricot wool fashions a supple coat by Italian designer Forquet.

The Countess of Quintanilla wears Pedro Rodriguez's short evening coat completely covered in embroidery and beads.

A sheath dress with matching coat by Ben Reig in silk/wool blend Alaskine. Hat by Lily Daché.

Whatever happened to sweet little blouses like these from Ship 'n Shore?

Silk chiffon evening gown by Frank Starr. This dress was available in pink coral, blue sky, or mint. Sold for $160.00 at Lord & Taylor (that's $1142.00 in today's dollar).

Don't forget, underneath it all, she wore a supportive bra and girdle. These are by Peter Pan in pale yellow. Not shown, the essential slip.

New at Couture Allure - Vintage Designer Dresses

I've added lots of new items to the site this week, including a bunch of fabulous dresses from the 1970's and some wonderful designer items.

This stunning vintage 50's ball gown is by sought-after designer Will Steinman. It's strapless, it's silk, and it has big pink flowers. So glamorous!

Another stunner, this 1960's white jacquard evening gown with matching opera coat is by Claralura. Perfect for your next formal affair or even as a wedding gown!

From the 1970's, this Lanvin maxi dress has a wonderful graphic black and white pattern.

How about this for over-the-top glamour? This vintage 1970's leopard print robe is trimmed in black feathers. Find your inner diva!

More glamorous 70's, this time in a colorblock maxi that can be worn as a coat or as a dress.



You'll wear this jacket forever. Vintage 1990's Louis Feraud high-end luxury ready-to-wear jacket in navy wool twill with a bit of nautical inspiration in the soutache braid trim.

There's lots more new at Couture Allure this week. Come on over a peruse our site!

Weekend Eye Candy - Norman Hartnell Evening Gowns 1953

4 gold and white evening gowns by Norman Hartnell from 1953. Gold and white were used to commemorate the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II. Hartnell also designed Queen Elizabeth's coronation and wedding gowns.

Polka Dot Vintage Dresses

I know you all love polka dots, so here are some vintage polka dot dresses from 1960:

Serbin offered this polka-dotted shirtwaist dress in navy, green, orange, or brown dots on white. Cute, no?

A black and white polka dotted dress by Junior House. You've gotta love those huge pockets on the skirt!

A scarf-printed silk dress by Rappi. Why is it called scarf-printed? Because the design is in large squares that can be cut apart and hemmed to make scarves. Here, Rappi used the dots in squares pattern to great effect in the skirt.

Here are some polka dot vintage dresses currently available at Couture Allure:

1950's cotton shirtwaist dress with a random polka dot pattern. $165.00

1940's navy dot day dress in silk. Generous larger size! $75.00

1950's dress by Jonathan Logan in rayon with the look and feel of linen. $135.00

Mix & Match Wardrobe 1949 #4

This week, we're looking at some Advance Patterns from 1949, and ideas for how to combine the separates into a multitude of outfit options. Today's final installment in this series includes looks for evening.

Advance Pattern 5128 from 1949 includes patterns for a cap sleeve blouse, a high waisted skirt in short and long versions, and a bolero jacket. Here the pieces are made in a solid silk and shimmering brocade.
Wear the brocade blouse with the silk skirt and jacket for a glamorous cocktail suit. Take the jacket off to expose more decolletage and arms.


Here the brocade blouse and long skirt are combined for an evening gown look. The silk jacket is worn as a cover-up.

Other options? How about:
- The silk blouse and short skirt worn as a cocktail dress.
- The silk blouse and long skirt worn as an evening gown.
- Add the jacket to either look and wear it all evening or take it off.

And on....and on. How would you combine these pieces?

Mix & Match Wardrobe 1949 #3

This week, we're looking at some Advance Patterns from 1949, and ideas for how to combine the separates into a multitude of outfit options.

Advance Pattern 5127 from 1949 contains patterns for a long sleeved jacket, a flared skirt, a V neck blouse, a shawl, a bra top, and shorts. I love the choices here, as they can be combined in so many different ways. Here, most of the pieces are made in plaid, but if you make them in a solid color too, the variety of outfits is almost endless!

Make the bra top and shorts in plaid and you've got a super cute swim or play suit. I like the way the shorts are gathered at the sides. Bring along the matching skirt to pop on for lunch or a walk in town.
Here is the same skirt dressed up with the V neck blouse in solid white, a wide sash belt, and the shawl in plaid.

Other choices are endless. Let's make all the pieces in a co-ordinating solid too.

- Wear the solid jacket with the solid skirt and the plaid V neck blouse and you've got a suit.
- Wear the plaid V neck blouse with the plaid skirt and you've got the look of a dress.
- Wear the solid jacket with the solid V neck blouse and the plaid skirt for another suit look.
- Wear the solid bra top and shorts as a second swim suit choice. Add the plaid skirt.

You get the idea. How would you mix and match these pieces?

Mix & Match Wardrobe 1949 #2

This week, we're looking at some Advance Patterns from 1949, and ideas for how to combine the separates into a multitude of outfit options.

Advance Pattern 5129 includes patterns for a blouse with either long or short sleeves, a vest, a skirt, and an apron to wear over the skirt. This pattern has a decided "country" or "ethnic" flavor to its pieces. By the way, this apron is not made for cooking in. It is used to add an accent and is based on the classic dirndl look from Eastern Europe.

Here we see the vest and skirt sewn in a blue print. When worn together, the two pieces can give look of a dress.

Here, the long sleeved blouse and apron are added in solid blue. I'm not crazy about this look. I think I would have made the apron in a contrasting print fabric, maybe a yellow and white stripe. The solid blue looks too "heavy" to me. It probably would work better in a solid lighter blue too.

Other options? How about:
- Short sleeved solid blouse with the print skirt and solid apron. Add a wide sash in the blue print fabric of the skirt.
- Long sleeved blouse in the blue print with the print skirt.
- Solid blue vest with the print skirt.

And on....and on. How would you combine these pieces? Would you choose a different fabric like I would?

Mix & Match Wardrobe 1949 #1

In today's economy, when we're all thinking about how to save a few dollars, doesn't a mix and match wardrobe make a lot of sense? And if you can sew, making separates from fabrics that co-ordinate is a smart choice. This week, let's look at some Advance Patterns from 1949, and ideas for how to combine the separates into a multitude of options.

Advance Pattern 5119 includes patterns for a cap sleeved blouse, button front high waisted skirt, a bolero jacket with sleeve cuffs, a bra top, and shorts. There are lots of possibilities here. And your options increase if you make the pieces in both fabrics.

Here, the blouse is sewn in a yellow and black polka dot print and combined with the shorts in solid black. A wide red belt adds a pop of color at the waist.

Make the skirt in the polka dot print, the bolero jacket in solid black with polka dot cuffs, and you've got a summer suit option.

Other choices are endless:
- Polka dot bra top and shorts make a cute play suit.
- Ditto with both pieces in black.
- Pair the polka dot bra top with black shorts for a third play suit, and the black bra top with polka dot shorts for a fourth.
- Solid black skirt with solid black blouse.
- Solid black skirt with polka dot blouse and black jacket.
- Polka dot skirt with polka dot blouse and black jacket.

You get the idea. How would you mix and match these pieces?

New at Couture Allure - Vintage Designer Dresses and Necklace

New at Couture Allure over the past couple of weeks are some vintage designer dresses and an unusual necklace.

I know it's French. I know it's designer. I know it dates to 1969-71. But since the label has been removed, I don't know which designer it is. What I can say is that this vintage dress is trés unusual. Each of the panels is joined with brass rings and grommets. With all that hardware, what's not to love?


Speaking of hardware, how about this vintage 1970's necklace by Mod designer Pierre Cardin? Signed on the back and exceedingly rare, you will never see anyone else wearing the same piece!

Isn't this vintage 50's silk gown stunning? But wait....turn around....

...the roses on the back make this a perfect wedding dress!

I love vintage cocktail dresses with matching coats. The fact that this one from the 60's is an electric green silk, makes it very current too!

This vintage 1960's sweater and skirt set by Bonnie Cashin is 100% pure cashmere, 100% touchable luxury, and 100% fun.

Happy 4th!

Today in the US, we commemorate Independence Day with parades, picnics, and fireworks. Happy 4th of July! Celebrate like you used to when you were a kid!

Why Should You Wear a Slip?

This week, we've been looking at the correct foundation garments to wear under your vintage dresses. You've seen bras, corsets, girdles, waist cinchers, and other types of shapers. But we haven't talked about another important layer in your undergarment wardrobe - the slip.

Van Raalte Lace Bouquet lingerie wardrobe.

Fact is, you shouldn't wear all those controlling foundations without a slip between them and your dress. A slip will slide over your bra and girdle and provide a smooth layer over them. A slip will keep your dress from catching on the edges of your foundations. A slip will keep your dress from clinging or riding up in unattractive ways.

Barbizon Satin de Lys slip with French lace and embroidery

Slips fell out of fashion in the 70's when pants became more popular as everyday wear. Many stores don't even carry slips anymore, as there is just no demand for them. But I urge you to give a slip a try. You'll be pleasantly surprised how it changes the look of what you're wearing. You can find authentic vintage slips online, and they are so much prettier than modern made ones.

A Rogers Satin Glo nylon tricot slip with scalloped lace matches and was worn over...

...the Formfit Romance bra and Skippies girdle.

Try it! I bet you'll like it!

The Correct Foundation Garments to Wear Under Your Vintage Dresses #4

Dear readers - I am feeling rather blah with a nasty head cold. This week, I will be republishing one of my most popular series regarding the correct foundation garments to wear with vintage dresses. This series still gets hits on a weekly basis, so I thought it would be useful to publish it again.



The final post in our series on correct foundation garments ends with a focus on sleek thighs. "Study the liquid lines of the dresses - they're newest in soft, covered-up wools for day-into-party wear. The brilliant red colorings (not for the timid) and subtly revealing cut (nice for the shapely) demand the firmest sort of discipline for hips and thighs. Pretties to aid and abet: long-legged panty girdles to comfortably coax and wheedle you into the willowy-wand shape that's needed."

The dress on the left has a flounce skirt in a printed wool/orlon jersey. The dress, by California Girl, sold for $30 (about $228 today) was sold at Hahne & Co., Newark, and Haggarty's, Los Angeles. Her long necklace is by D'Arlan.

Under this dress, the model is wearing a Youthcraft panty girdle with red stripes on white and a Madenform cotton bra.

The solid red dress on the right by Jonathan Logan is in wool crepe. This dress sold for $15 (about $115 today) and was available at Lord & Taylor, May Co., and The Broadway. She wears a Coro necklace.

Under this dress, the model is wearing a Jantzen panty girdle of nylon and Lastex with a Jantzen cotton bra.

I hope you've enjoyed this series of articles. Remember, these photos all came from Seventeen magazine - so proper foundation garments were expected to be worn by young girls, not just grown women. Can you imagine wearing a girdle to high school?

The Correct Foundation Garments to Wear Under Your Vintage Dresses #3

Dear readers - I am feeling rather blah with a nasty head cold. This week, I will be republishing one of my most popular series regarding the correct foundation garments to wear with vintage dresses. This series still gets hits on a weekly basis, so I thought it would be useful to publish it again.



Today's focus is on smooth hips required when wearing a dress with a lowered waist. "Shimmy bodices that drop their waists down to hip-level...or lower, then meet rippling, flounced skirts. The silhouette-makers needed: hip-firming girdles, rounded bras."

The dress on the left has a gathered flared skirt below a dropped waist. It is by Youth Fair and sold for $15 in 1958 (about $112 today). The model wears a Castlecliff pin on her collar.

Under this dress, she is wearing a Hollywood Vassarette open bottom girdle with double panels of power net at the back and sides and a front V-shaped panel of nylon satin overlaid with point d'esprit lace. The Hollywood Vassarette bra is in nylon with lace cups.

The dress on the right, by Teena Paige, has a dropped waist, permanent pleated skirt and a sailor collar. It sold for $18 in 1958 (about $135 today) and was available at Altman's, New York and Macy's, San Francisco. The model wears a Castlecliff pin on the collar.

Under this dress, the model is wearing a Peter Pan panty girdle of nylon power net woven in elastic stripes. The Peter Pan cotton bra has contour cups.