Tuesday, December 15, 2009

Holiday Gifts - Jewels 1975

More holiday jewels, this time from 1975.

Bulgari

Elsa Peretti for Tiffany
Elsa Peretti had just joined Tiffany the previous year, and the company is already featuring her designs in full page advertisements in 1975. Interesting to note that the ad states these earrings are for pierced ears, which were becoming very popular with younger women. But Tiffany placates it's traditional buyers by pointing out that you can also wear this pierced earring as a pin.

Van Cleef & Arpels cabochon emeralds and diamonds set in 18k gold.

Piaget diamond and lapis lazuli watch set in 18k gold.

Monday, December 14, 2009

Holiday Gifts - Jewels 1966

Need some ideas for holiday gifts? How about a few jewels from 1966? Click the pics for larger views so you can drool.

David Webb

Van Cleef & Arpels

Tiffany

Harry Winston

Which would you choose? Me? The ram's head bracelet by David Webb, thank you.

In other news:

Over the weekend I found out that Couture Allure has been chosen as the Best Site for Vintage Fashion by Time Out Singapore magazine. Thank you!

Also, check out the photo of Jayne Conroy looking gorgeous in a vintage 1950s suit purchased from Couture Allure at Fab Over Fifty. And do watch the inspiring video featuring Geri Brin, founder of faboverfifty.com.

Sunday, December 13, 2009

New at Couture Allure - Vintage Evening Gowns & Dresses

New this week at Couture Allure are several evening gowns, dresses, purses, and a fabulous coat!

1968 Oscar de la Renta brocade evening gown and mink trimmed opera coat from Bergdorf's Custom Salon.


1960s Mod neon pink silk hipster dress with matching jacket, custom made in Hong Kong.



1950s black cordé purse with huge amber lucite clasp.

Saturday, December 12, 2009

Weekend Eye Candy - My Sister's Vintage Christmas Tree

I recently got to spend several days visiting my sister Pam of Glamoursurf. A visit during the holiday season is quite rare for us, as we live on opposite coasts. While I had seen photos of this treasure on Pam's blog Glamoursplash, this was my first opportunity to see it in person.


Bits of mismatched and broken vintage rhinestone jewelry were used to make this sparkling Christmas tree which Pam displays on her mantel during the holidays. Isn't it incredible?

Friday, December 11, 2009

Oscar de la Renta - 1968

Today, I want to share one of my latest finds with you. On November 11, 1968, Mrs. J. F. Schoellkof ordered this Oscar de la Renta evening gown with matching opera coat from Bergdorf Goodman's Custom Salon.


Bergdorf Goodman would order sample garments from various designer and couture houses, and then have them custom made for their customers. They did the final fitting and tailoring in-house.

This stunning set by Oscar de la Renta is fashioned of metallic brocade in pink, brown, and cream with gold threads. The opera coat has a mink fur collar and cuffs.

The coat opens to reveal a matching dress.

The dress alone is a knock-out, but when you add the coat, that takes it into the stratosphere.

The coat has huge elaborate frog closures in metallic gold with rhinestones, pearls, and chains.

The dress is trimmed with gold braid, rhinestones, gold beads, and bell shaped metal rings.

This is, quite simply, one of the most amazing garments I've ever found in my years in this business. I wish I could have met Mrs. Schoellkof. She must have been quite a woman!

For more details, see the listing at Couture Allure.

Thursday, December 10, 2009

What Not to Give

Over the years, I'm sure you've all been given a holiday gift by a loved one that inspired the thought, "What were they thinking?". If you're like me, you smiled politely, thanked the giver, and buried the offending item deep in a closet. As a public service, I must warn you - these goodies from a 1983 holiday mail order catalog are still hiding in closets, waiting to be unearthed during an estate sale. Be afraid....be very afraid.

Denim warm-up suit with red trim and a big heart and lightening bolt applique on the chest. Must be worn with red shoes.

Need something a bit more subtle to wear with those red shoes? How about this green sweatshirt and pants trimmed with red and green plaid ribbon ruffles?

Every gal wants an acrylic lounging robe with big red mitten pockets pointing directly at her um....er......you know. Doesn't she?

If your guy is still wearing a mullet, maybe you'll want to get your hands on one of these chicken ski caps as revenge.

Or his very own velour warm-up suit with racing stripes.

26 years later, we know better, but here is the ultimate faux-pas in holiday gifts. Send your signature and Social Security number, and this company would print it on a beach towel. Get your identity stolen while you lounge by the pool!

Wednesday, December 09, 2009

Geoffrey Beene - Fall 1966

After working for Harmay and Teal Traina in his early years, Geoffrey Beene started his own label in 1964. He was an immediate success. For Fall 1966, he showed several pieces in black and white check wool. All three of these photos appeared in the same issue of Harper's Bazaar.

This is Beene's own ad showing a suit with a swingy jacket and slim skirt worn with black gloves, opaque tights and Mary Jane shoes. Look how the houndstooth check on the pocket flap is perfectly matched to the check on the jacket behind the flap.

Here, a nearly identical suit by Beene in an ad for The Wool Bureau. This ad tells us that the jacket buttons up the back and it features slash pockets and a high funnel collar. Worn with a matching hat and black gloves.

The editorial section of the magazine featured this Geoffrey Beene dress with a similar swingy feel. It sold in 1966 for $185 (about $1217 in today's dollar). Shown here with a matching Lilly Daché hat, Wear-Right gloves and earrings by Sandor Goldberger. The model wears a long braided hairpiece by Mr. John Wigs.

Which do you like best?

Tuesday, December 08, 2009

Vintage Fur Coats - 1957

If you're not averse to vintage fur, here are a few ideas for your holiday gift wish list. One of each, please, Santa!

Revillon stole in Empress Chinchilla fur.

Elsa Schiaparelli licensed black dyed Southwest African Persian lamb
with removable white mink scarf.

Saga Norwegian blue fox capelet from Russeks Fifth Avenue.

Natural Royal Crown Russian sable by Maximillian. I love the way the soft focus of the photograph emulates the supreme softness of the sable fur.

Oh heck, why not just go for broke and wear an entire suit of
Umpa dark ranch mink fur designed by Fredrica.

Monday, December 07, 2009

Please Forgive Me

I didn't mean to damage your psyche, hurt your eyes, or ruin your day, but I couldn't resist sharing this ad from 1973 for Jaeger.

I know. I can't stop laughing either.

Sunday, December 06, 2009

Weekend Eye Candy - Pauline Trigere 1966

Since I'm away on a buying trip this week, you get a second dose of weekend eye candy today. From 1966, a Pauline Trigere strapless beaded evening gown is worn with David Webb jewelry.

Saturday, December 05, 2009

Weekend Eye Candy - Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld 1986

Karl Lagerfeld uses embroidery to "quilt" the sequins on this suit from the Chanel Fall/Winter 1986-87 line. Gold beads and sequins form the decorative binding on the jacket. From the collection of the Metropolitan Museum Costume Institute in New York.

Friday, December 04, 2009

Why Don't You....

...take a bit of sequined lace and use it as a scarf to wear around your head? Andi McDowell works the look to great effect with her curly hair, shown here in photos by Eric Boman for Vogue 1984. Hair by Sam McKnight.

Or, why don't you wear a heart-shaped rhinestone brooch on your sleeve?

Black wool jersey top and skirt by Geoffrey Beene closes with rhinestone buttons down the front. Set sold for $1195.00 in 1984 (about $2452.00 in today's dollar). Match it with Beene's floor-length rain slicker that sold for $510 in 1984 (about $1047 in today's dollar).

Thursday, December 03, 2009

Vintage Coats - 1967

December is here. Winter officially begins in 2 1/2 weeks. I say, bring it on! I can stay warm by just looking at these fabulous vintage coats, all from 1967.

Christian Dior rayon velvet moire.

Check patterned worsted wool by Belle Saunders for Abe Schrader.

Laird-Knox for Bonwit Teller red wool military style mini coat.

Arbeit ranch mink coat with petal hem for I. Magnin.

Wool knit military style coat by Italian Couture Knitter Gino Paoli. Came with matching top, skirt, and pants.

Hey, don't remind me I said, "Bring it on!" when I start complaining about the cold in February, OK?

Wednesday, December 02, 2009

Holiday Dresses - 1957

It's December and the holidays party season has arrived. What will you be wearing this year? Here are some pretty party dresses from a 1957 issue of Seventeen magazine.

White sheer nylon strapless dress accented with gold sequins at the bust. Maker unknown as the ad is for Dupont nylon. Isn't it pretty, though?

Left: Carole King dress has a black silk organza bodice with a flared silk and lurex skirt that was available in silver, blue, pink, or aqua with black stripes. Sold for $25.00 in 1957 (about $190.00 in today's dollar).
Right: Carole King dress with a black crepe bodice and cotton/silk print skirt in white, pink, or blue with black and gold. Sold for $25.00 in 1957 (about $190.00 in today's dollar).

Two strapless beauties by Dansant Originals. Both were available in white, pink, blue, aqua and red, and both sold for $50.00 in 1957 (about $379.00 in today's dollar).
Left: Taffeta drop waist strapless dress with rhinestone sprinkled lace at bust and hip.
Right: Layer upon layer of sheer nylon ruffles accented with iridescent braid.

Left: Shirley Lee sheer nylon chiffon layered over matching taffeta in coral rose, beige, black, or blue. Sold for $15.00 in 1957 (about $114.00 in today's dollar).
Right: Shirley Lee cotton/acetate brocade in yellow, antique white, pink or blue. Sold for $13.00 in 1957 (about $99.00 in today's dollar).

Tuesday, December 01, 2009

Chanel Nonsense and Miscellaneous Stuff

Today's post is a mish-mosh of various stuff with no central theme.

Topic #1 - I was flipping through the latest issue of Vogue magazine yesterday and came across this ad for Chanel.

I realize that since 1982, when Karl Lagerfeld became the designer at Chanel, the average age of the Chanel customer has dropped. But has it dropped so much that Chanel's target customer is a teenager who hangs out on MySpace? Really? How does she pay for a $2700 cocoon bag?

24-year-old pop singer Lily Allen is the model. Quite frankly, I had no idea who she was until I saw her name on the Chanel website and then Googled her. And I'll wager that Chanel's best customers - the ones who actually shop in Chanel stores and spend thousands of dollars on clothing and accessories - have absolutely no interest in her or her music.

As a woman over the age of 50, I find this ad campaign derogatory and a real turn off. Come on, Karl. We women of the Baby Boomer generation are the ones with money to spend, and we're not interested in wearing tiaras in our hair. Why aren't you designing for us? Better yet, why aren't you marketing to us? Your ad makes me realize you don't care about me as a potential customer. I can deal with that. I'll be happy to take my money elsewhere.

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Topic #2 - Speaking of women over 50, have you heard about the new site www.faboverfifty.com? You will. Geri Brin, former editor and publisher at Fairchild Publications, will be launching the site in January of 2010. And while you're waiting, enjoy Geri's Fab Over Fifty Blog. I do, on a daily basis.

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Topic #3 - We're fast approaching the end of a decade. My friend and colleague Jonathan Walford of the Fashion History Museum in Canada has posted a retrospective look at fashion from 2000 - 2009 that is a fascinating read. Go see it here. And thanks, Jonathan, for the work that went into that post!

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Topic #4 - I am headed out on a week-long buying trip tomorrow. Although I won't be around to comment or read your blogs, I have prepared a week's worth of new posts for you here. Heaven forbid you should have Couture Allure Blog withdrawal! See you next week, friends!