It Must be Pucci - 1957

In this full page ad from 1957, Lord & Taylor featured this dress with the headline, "That flair - it's pure Emilio."  They've got to mean Emilio Pucci, don't you think?  "Black cotton ribbing and a brilliant print, 75.00, from the Italian resort collection imported for Lord & Taylor."  It must be Pucci. 

Illustration by Dorothy Hood for Lord & Taylor, 1957

Chanel Dress, 1957

Chanel Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 1957.

Gilbert Orcel Hat, 1957

A perfect little hat for a summer evening, don't you think?  Gilbert Orcel, 1957.

Pauline Trigere, 1957

No words necessary.

Weekend Eye Candy - Pierre Balmain, 1957

The more I study the work of Pierre Balmain, the more he is becoming my favorite designer.  This deep pink silk evening gown from 1957 has a long train and is accented with a huge pink silk taffeta stole.  The photographer's choice to use a red backdrop is simply genius. 

Jean Patou Ball Gown, 1957

Jean Patou haute couture ball gown, 1957.  Strapless black lace re-embroidered with satin ribbons.  Simply divine.

Irene for Marshall Field's 28 Shop - 1957

After Friday's post about Marshall Field's 28 Shop, I came across this ad from 1957.  Designer Irene Lentz's fashions were carried in the exclusive 28 Shop.  "The covered look for evening, dramatically done by Irene: a long sleek line of black crepe....a touch of transparency in lace and chiffon. $310"  (about $2,527 in today's dollar.)

Another Side of Nina Ricci

Lest you think after yesterday's post that Nina Ricci only excelled at suits, here is a Ricci draped silk jersey wedding gown from 1957.

Weekend Eye Candy - Mme Gres, 1957

Need a little something to knock 'em dead on New Year's Eve?  How about this silk satin evening gown with matching hooded cloak by Mme. Gres from 1957?  In my dreams!

Norman Norell Bubble Dress - 1957

Traina-Norell, 1957

Norman Norell was the designer of this bubble dress in 1957 for the Traina-Norell label.  Anthony Traina was Norell's financial backer.  He died in 1958 and Norell took over the company and changed the label to simply Norman Norell about 1960.  Richard Avedon took this photo of Norell's bubble dress and I have to assume that the dress is puffed up with air or stuffed with something to give it this round shape.  It's likely there are slits for the arms hidden in there somewhere and when the dress was worn in a normal fashion the bubble silhouette was far less severe.

I normally associate Norman Norell with the "ladies who lunch" crowd and his design esthetic in the 60s and 70s certainly fit that mold.  But Norell was a master of stunning cocktail and evening dresses and his work in the 40s and 50s included some incredible, incredible designs.  Here are a few more examples of his earlier work.

1951

circa 1955 from the Met Museum Costume Collection

1949

That bubble dress at the top is not the only wacky design Norell ever did.  Take a close look at this dress from the 1950s.  Do my eyes deceive me or is this actually a split skirt with two huge harem pant legs?

circa 1950s from the Indianapolis Museum of Art costume collection

 And take a close look at this evening gown from 1949.  Those are satin harem pants under the lace skirt.

1949

Vintage Full Skirted Dresses - 1957

Full skirted party dresses like these from 1957 are a perennial favorite with my customers.  Nothing makes your waist look tinier than a full skirt and these dresses just have a certain romanticism to them.  What about you?  Do you like wearing this style?

At left:  Dansant ice blue taffeta dress with sequined bodice.  Sold for $45 in 1957 (about $363 in today's dollar.)
At right:  Betty Lane separates give the look of a dress.  Blue satin blouse with a white lace skirt.   Sold for $27 in 1957 (about $193 in today's dollar.)

At left:  Dansant strapless taffeta adorned with rhinestone studded lace.  Sold for $50 in 1957 (about $403 in today's dollar.)
At right:  Dansant nylon ruffles with a wide taffeta waistband.   Sold for $50 in 1957 (about $403 in today's dollar.)

At left:  Carole King black silk organza with silk and silver lurex skirt.  Sold for $25 in 1957 (about $202 in today's dollar.)
At right:  Carole King cotton and silk blend dress with gold printed highlights.  Sold for $25 in 1957 (about $202 in today's dollar.)

At left:  Jo Collins silk shantung and organza dress with a pretty rose print.  Sold for $30 in 1957 (about $242 in today's dollar.)
At right:  Junior Flair floral print chiffon dress.  Sold for $30 in 1957 (about $242 in today's dollar.)

Jonathan Logan (a favorite label of mine)  blue roses print on nylon chiffon.  The taffeta lining is also printed with roses for a shadow effect.  Sold for $25 in 1957 (about $202 in today's dollar.)

Vintage Swimsuit Inspiration - 1956

Check out the neckline of that little jacket.  See how the opening extends into rounded tabs with buttons?  Love that!  Set by Andre Ledoux Sports.

At the beach, wear your hair in a simple braid.  Blue and white polka dot rayon skirted suit by Laure Belin.

Border printed fabric offers lots of opportunities to change the look of a design.  Simple white mules and a parasol are the perfect accessories.  Set by Laure Belin.

Slits in the skirt mimic the V-neckline in a nice example of design symmetry.  A vintage swimcap adds that extra je ne sais quoe. Suit by Marie-Rose Lebigot.

Cat's-eye sunglasses and a parasol add the perfect touch! Yipes stripes in cotton by Jeanne Lanvin - Castillo.

Hats for Spring - 1957

I'm feeling trapped. The snowbanks are higher than my waist, the driveway is getting narrower and narrower, and I am generally sick to death of winter. It's so cold, the inner harbor is frozen over. Someone remind me why I live in Boston?

To combat the winter blues and blahs this week, let's look at some goodies for spring so that we can start to dream of balmier weather. And for those of you living in warmer climates right now, I am officially jealous!

Today, spring hats from 1957. Just looking at hats lifts my mood. How about you?

Rose Valois forms a double bandeaux of rose petals.

Pierre Balmain wide brim straw hat.

Ruban flower petal cap with dramatic face veil.

Albouy uses metallic mesh and tops it with a rose.

Gilbert Orcel blue and white stripe silk.

Weekend Eye Candy - Jacques Fath, 1957

Jacques Fath weaves black silk ribbons into a tight fitting cap. The loops at the back resemble a fun coiffure. Notice too the mix of a double strand of pearls AND a brooch. Love!

Weekend Eye Candy - Mme. Gres, 1957

Blue silk satin evening gown and matching cape by Madame Grès, 1957.

Weekend Eye Candy - Kim Novak, 1957

Actress Kim Novak poses for a publicity photo taken by Robert Coburn. She is wearing a purple ruched chiffon one-shoulder jumpsuit and clear lucite Springolators. Meow. Kim Novak is one of my style icons. If you've never seen the film "Bell Book and Candle", watch it just for the clothes.

Weekend Eye Candy - Nina Ricci 1957

Floral print + evening gown = Love at first sight. Nina Ricci silk evening gown, 1957.

Meet Lois

After my post about the Look of Suits from 1955, Facebook fan Bonnie sent me these pictures and the story of her mom and dad. She has kindly given permission for me to share them with you here.

Lois Marie Cashell and Charles Berkeley Randall were married in November 1957. Lois was working as a hairdresser at Hochschild-Kohn, one of Baltimore's famous department stores at the time.

Because the wedding was small, with only immediate family in attendance for the service at St. James Lutheran Church, Lois chose to wear a suit instead of a wedding gown. She purchased the Glenhaven suit at Hochschild-Kohn, and remembers it was quite expensive, even with her employee discount!

I found this ad for a very similar Glenhaven suit from 1957. Glenhaven suits were of very high quality and made of the best fabrics. Lois's suit was made of Forstmann wool, one of the premier wool mills of the time.

Sadly, Charles passed away just months shy of the couple's 50th wedding anniversary, but their children took Lois out to celebrate the date despite that fact. Amazingly, she was still able to fit into her wedding suit, and wore it along with the original hat, jewelry, and slip that she wore on her wedding day for the celebration. Isn't she beautiful?

Bonnie was kind enough to take some detailed photos of the suit for us.





Not only did the suit last all those years, it still looks stylish today! Thanks for sharing your story and pictures, Bonnie and Lois!

Vintage Hats - 1957

Jacques Fath

By 1957, you can see that the shape of hats has changed. While the wide brimmed portrait hats are still popular, styles that fit closer to the head are very artistic and allow the wearer to express her personality in many ways. All of these are from 1957.

Jean Barthet

Claude St-Cyr

Rose Valois

Gerard Albouy

Legroux Soeurs