Wednesday, May 12, 2010

Roberta di Camerino

Giuliana Coen Camerino has died at age 90. Founder and designer of Roberta di Camerino, she died at home on Monday night.


Camerino began her career in Switzerland, where she had fled to escape Nazi persecution. She crafted handmade handbags, and named her company after the movie "Roberta", which starred Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers. Returning to Venice after the war, Camerino started using Venetian craftsmen to construct the distinctive brass hardware for her bags.

While using the finest of Italian leathers, many Roberta di Camerino bags were also made of velvet that was woven on antique looms.

During the 1950s, Camerino began a line of clothing, and she took part in the first shows of Italian fashion at Palazzo Pitti. However, in the 1960s, her work with trompe l'oeil effects on jersey knits was what brought her great success with clothing.
Camerino devised this method of trompe l'oeil in order to produce simply cut garments that were quick to manufacture and easy to wear, while capturing the attention with an eye to irony.

The dresses were made from flat pieces of fabric onto which the colors were printed separately, allowing time for each to dry before applying the next.

In 1980, the Whitney Museum in New York installed a retrospective exhibit of Camerino's work. How I would have loved to have seen it! Today, the Roberta di Camerino company is owned by the Sixty Group.

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

Le Groupe Mode et Création

In 1973, Pierre Bergé created "Le Groupe Mode et Création", "The Fashion and Design Group". The group consisted of 8 French designers of pret-a-porter, or ready-to-wear and was formed to promote the originality and creativity of French pret-a-porter on the international fashion scene. I don't believe the group was long-lasting, as I can't find any information about it, other than that it was formed in 1973. However, in 1975, the group took out a double page ad in American Vogue magazine to salute the American Bicentennial.

"Le Groupe Mode et Creation salutes America's Bicentennial and two hundred years of the French regard for liberty, equality and brotherhood that helped formulate America's ideology. Today, there is a modern bond of admiration between France and the United States. Through our combined efforts in the world of fashion, we have inspired the spirit of competition supported by mutual respect."

So, how did you do on yesterday's quiz?

1. Kenzo, designer of Jap, 2. Sonia Rykiel, and 3. Yves Saint Laurent for Rive Gauche.

4. Karl Lagerfeld (!) designer of Chloé, 5. Marc Bohan, designer of Christian Dior, and 6. Jacqueline Jacobson, designer of Dorthée Bis.

7. Emmanuelle Khanh, and 8. Emanuel Ungaro.

Monday, May 10, 2010

Who Are These People?

Who are these 8 people? Hint - They're all fashion designers. Come on, give it a try. That third one is easy!








Now that you've made your guesses, tell me what is the common denominator? Why these 8? Fashion history fascinates me, and I hope you're intrigued. Answers tomorrow!

Sunday, May 09, 2010

New at Couture Allure - Vintage Dresses

New at Couture Allure this week are lots of great vintage dresses, including some beautiful sparkly beaded ones.






Saturday, May 08, 2010

Weekend Eye Candy - Audrey Hepburn in Valentino, 1969

Audrey Hepburn wears a black silk tiered cape from Valentino's Spring-Summer 1969 collection. Here, the top tier is folded up as a hood. The cape was made from three layers of black silk organza.

Friday, May 07, 2010

Vintage Shoe Exhibit in Hong Kong

My friends and colleagues Jonathan Walford and Kenn Norman of the Fashion History Museum in Canada were recently approached by a firm in Hong Kong to create an exhibit of vintage shoes for a shopping plaza there. Kenn traveled to Hong Kong with 50 pairs of vintage shoes from such designers as Joe Famolare, Christian Louboutin, Maude Frizon, Roger Vivier, Salvatore Ferragamo, Andre Perugia, Andrea Pfister, Charles Jourdan, David Evins, Herman Delman, Beth Levine, and many more. The shoes will be on exhibit at the Town Plaza in Sha Tin until May 31. Not traveling to Hong Kong this month? Not to worry! You can see many of the shoes in the following news video from Beauty Exchange in Hong Kong. The first minute of the video is in Chinese, but be patient, as the interviewer switches to English when interviewing Kenn, and close-ups of the shoes abound. Enjoy, and congrats to Jonathan and Kenn!

Thursday, May 06, 2010

New Costume Exhibitions - Get Thee to New York Part 2!

Yesterday, I featured the first part of a unique double exhibit taking place this summer in New York. Last year, the Metropolitan Museum and the Brooklyn Museum began the massive job of transferring the Brooklyn Museum's extensive costume collection to the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum. In the process, so many treasures have been discovered that an unusual double exhibit was designed to highlight the finds. Tomorrow, May 7, "American High Style: Fashioning a National Collection" opens at the Brooklyn Museum, and believe me, you do not want to miss it! The exhibit will feature approximately 85 garments from American designers, including Bonnie Cashin, Charles James, Norman Norell, Gilbert Adrian, and others, along with hats, shoes, handbags, and other accessories that have not been shown for years. Also included will be garments from French designers who influenced American fashion, such as Schiaparelli, Dior, Lanvin, and Vionnet. Following is just a smidgen of what you'll see at this exhibit.

Charles James "Butterfly" ball gown, 1955

Carolyn Schnurer cotton sundress, 1951

Claire McCardell wool and cotton ensemble, 1946

Arnold Scaasi silk bubble dress and coat, 1958

Gilbert Adrian silk and metallic evening ensemble worn by Janet Gaynor, 1949

"American High Style: Fashioning a National Collection" is at the Brooklyn Museum from May 7, 2010 - August 1, 2010. The Brooklyn Museum can be reached by subway from the Metropolitan Museum for $2.25 and the ride will take approximately 50 minutes. Do you need any other reasons to go to New York before August 1st? Go!

All images courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum Costume Institute.

Wednesday, May 05, 2010

New Costume Exhibitions - Get Thee to New York!

If ever there was a summer to go to New York, 2010 is it. Last year, the Metropolitan Museum and the Brooklyn Museum began the massive job of transferring the Brooklyn Museum's extensive costume collection to the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum. In the process, so many treasures have been discovered that an unusual double exhibit was designed to highlight the finds. Today, "American Woman: Fashioning a National Identity" opens at the Metropolitan Museum in Manhattan. This portion of the exhibit focuses on archetypes of American fashion, including "Gibson Girls" and "Screen Sirens". Following are some highlights you will see at the Met.

Jesse Franklin Turner gold lamé dress, 1933

Etta Hentz Grecian style evening gown, 1944

Charles James silk and metallic gown, 1936

Nellie Harrington sweater and pleated skirt, 1928

Silk and rhinestone evening gown, c. 1909-11

"American Woman: Fashioning a National Identity" is on view at the Metropolitan Museum of Art May 5, 2010 - August 15, 2010. Tomorrow, the companion exhibit at the Brooklyn Museum, just a subway ride away!

All images courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum Costume Institute Collection.

Tuesday, May 04, 2010

Corsetry - 1940

1940 hoyningen-huene, bergdorf goodman ad"Long and lean", "slim silhouette" and "slender lines" are words used over and over in a magazine from 1940. To look her best in these fashions, every woman wore a good corset like the ones shown here.
Nemo Sensations girdle and bra made with Lastex yarn, will "mold a new and lovelier you".

Le Gant laced "Sta-Up-Top" girdle extends above the waist to "erase the spare tire and give the long lines of fashion".

Gossard all-in-one gives a "long concave curve from the bust to the hip bone. The pull of the elastic straps tapers the waist".

With this Charmis combination, "you are assured of a firm yet supple line, the latest look". Note the ruffle at the hem of this corset and the Le Gant above. I've never seen this before, but the ruffle is there to cover the garters so they don't show through. Great idea!

Monday, May 03, 2010

Candice Bergen, Model - 1969

Now that many of my favorite TV shows have ended for the summer, I've been taping reruns of "Boston Legal" in order to enjoy one of my all-time favorite actresses, Candice Bergen. Imagine my delight to be flipping through a 1969 issue of Vogue the other day, and finding these photos of her. Vogue called her "one of the brightest stars in orbit". At age 64, I think she still is, don't you?


Tina Leser silk tunic and pants with jeweled borders. These tiny braids were all the rage in 1969. I remember buying a couple to wear in my hair. They were lots of fun.

Geoffrey Beene maxi dress with a brown dotted organza bodice above a white taffeta skirt trimmed with brown and white ostrich feathers.

Candice at her best in a white silk crepe midriff blouse and wide legged wrap pants by Stavropoulos.

Neal-McClintock white crepe evening dress with beaded collar and cuffs. Christian Dior shoes.

Sunday, May 02, 2010

New at Couture Allure - Vintage Dresses, Suits, and Hats

New at Couture Allure this week are several vintage dresses and evening gowns, a few vintage suits, and more vintage hats from Jeannette's collection! See all the new items by checking the What's New section of the website!






Saturday, May 01, 2010

Weekend Eye Candy - Marcel Rochas, 1951

Marcel Rochas, 1951. Grey silk tulle is accented with yellow roses. Swoon.