Tuesday, September 16, 2008

Three 1961 Dior Coats

Three coats from Christian Dior's Fall/Winter 1961 collection. These were designed by Marc Bohan who took over design responsibilities for the company after Yves St. Laurent left to form his own company.

In looking at these coats, I see a nod to the past and a foretelling of the future. The wide flare gives a nod to Dior's New Look fullness from a decade past, but the fullness falls from the shoulders, not the waist. This tent or trapeze shape becomes popular in dresses later in the 60's. Also note how the flared lines of the coats are accented with strong seams that have noticeable top-stitching - another design hallmark that becomes popular in coats and suits in the early 60's. The buttons also follow the flare of the coat, rather than falling in straight vertical rows as would be expected.

Coat #1 was shown by Dior in red wool, and was imported and copied by Saks Fifth Avenue. Coat #2 was shown by Dior in taupe wool fleece, and was copied by Frank Gallant for Saks Fifth Avenue and Hutzler's, or, you could buy the original Dior at Frederick & Nelson, Seattle. Coat #3 was shown by Dior in a bright yellow-orange wool and was copied by Frechtel for Lord & Taylor and I. Magnin, or you could buy the original Dior at Nan Duskin.