Monday, April 19, 2010

Emilio Pucci Silk Jumpsuit - 1965

Told you you'd be surprised! This silk jumpsuit was designed by Emilio Pucci in 1965. While Pucci was famous for his prints, he also designed clothing in solid colors.

This pink silk evening gown with lace-hemmed pants and matching shoes was from Pucci's 1964 line.

Emilio Pucci, the Marchese di Barsento was born in Naples, Italy in 1914 to one of Italy's oldest noble families. After bouncing around to several colleges in Italy and the U.S., he was awarded his doctorate in political science in 1938. He served in the Italian Air Force during WWII, and was a staunch supporter of Mussolini's Fascist regime.

Pucci got his start in fashion when a skiing outfit he had designed for a friend in stretch knit fabric was noticed by Harper's Bazaar photographer Toni Frizell. The magazine featured several of Pucci's ski designs in the winter of 1948, and they were an instant sensation. He then left the Air Force and opened his own boutique in Capri.

Pucci started with a line of swimwear using stretch fabrics in 1949, but soon moved on to boldly printed silk scarves which would lead to the iconic signed patterns he is known for.

In the 1950s, Stanley Marcus of Neiman Marcus encouraged Pucci to produce those same patterns on silk blouses that were paired with pants in solid colors. The set shown above is in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.

Marilyn Monroe often wore Pucci, and was even buried in her favorite chartreuse green silk jersey dress that was designed by Emilio.

Although his designs in solid colors are outstanding, Pucci will always be known for his use of wild prints. The hooded cape above is from 1965.

These dresses and hats were from the 1968 line. This is Pucci with two of the models from the show.

As for the turquoise jumpsuit I showed you on Friday? I like to imagine it was meant to be worn with these Pucci gold harem shoes from 1965, also in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

This late 1960s silk jersey sundress by Pucci comes with a matching jacket and is currently available for purchase at Couture Allure.

For more fun, enjoy this video that features clothing and accessories by Emilio Pucci!

Sunday, April 18, 2010

New at Couture Allure - Vintage Designer Dresses and Hats

New this week at Couture Allure are some bargain priced designer dresses and more hats from the Jeannette Brewer collection!




Saturday, April 17, 2010

Weekend Eye Candy - Nina Ricci and Etro 1980

Did you know that Etro started as a fabric and textile manufacturer in 1968, a full 20 years before it's first clothing lines? Here Nina Ricci uses Etro fabric for a silk kimono jacket and pants set in 1980. Stunning and timeless, this set would still be completely wearable today.

Friday, April 16, 2010

Guess the Designer

When I saw who designed this "at home" jumpsuit from 1965, I was surprised. Fashioned of turquoise silk cloqué, the strapless bodice comes to a point at the center, then falls in a bias cut blouson to the hips, then again to the harem pants that have cuffs at the ankles. Care to guess who designed it? Answer on Monday!

Thursday, April 15, 2010

The Look of Suits - 1951

In 1951, ladies suits were tailored to show off a tiny waist. Design details were used to great effect to fool the eye and make waistlines appear even smaller than they were. Hem lengths for straight skirts fell 3"-4" below the knee. While fuller skirts were finally starting to become popular, most women opted for the classic straight skirt when purchasing a suit. Enjoy these beauties from 1951!

How can you not go crazy for this suit by Schiaparelli? 4 diagonal pleats all converge at the waist with a big button right in the center. It appears that the hipline of the jacket is flared just slightly with the use of stiff interlining. That technique also makes the waist appear tiny.

Adele Simpson wool suit in black and white tweed with black velvet lining the neckline. The black buttons end right at the waist and your eye is drawn right to that point. The hips stand away just slightly to make the waist appear small. Suit sold for $155 in 1951 (about $1297 in today's dollar).

Swansdown offered this wool tweed suit. The jacket has a subtle stripe that co-ordinates with the skirt. Those big pocket flaps accent the width of the hips, making the waist appear smaller. The suit sold for $80 in 1951 (about $670 in today's dollar).

Famous furrier Revillon offered this suit in wool with an attached Karakul lamb fur stole. Here the jacket flares into a pleated peplum and the waist is belted, all to accent the appearance of slimness.

Another Adele Simpson suit, this time in black and white micro-herringbone check with black velvet at the collar. Here Simpson makes a V with the buttons, fooling the eye into thinking the bust is large and the waist is tiny. The hipline of this jacket is definitely wider than that of the skirt. Suit sold for $155 in 1951 (about $1297 in today's dollar).

Wednesday, April 14, 2010

1937 Housewife

I am so glad I am living now and not in my grandmother's time. Granted, I can't imagine my grandfather caring about how his wife cleaned the house, but this ad from 1937 gives a glimpse into the expectations of women at that time.

Can you imagine any woman today telling her fiancé, "It'll be fun keeping our home shining clean"? And can you imagine being married to the jerk that criticizes her housecleaning?

Apparently, because Old Dutch Cleanser doesn't have harsh, scratchy grit, it is a better cleanser. Huh?

I think if he praised me for getting smarter about house cleaning, I'd turn around and punch him in the nose! And I would never buy a product that made me feel like I was a poor wife because my bathtub wasn't sparkling. But maybe that's just me......

Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Jacqueline Kennedy Marries Aristotle Onassis in Valentino - 1968

For his Spring-Summer 1968 couture line (the famous White Collection), Valentino designed this two piece outfit, here modeled by Marisa Berenson. The pale beige lace bodice floated over a pleated skirt.

This was the dress that Jacqueline Kennedy chose to wear for her wedding to Aristotle Onassis in October of 1968. The style was an immediate worldwide hit, and was copied by many dress manufacturers.

Jackie is said to have married Onassis for protection, as she feared the Kennedy family was being targeted after the assassination of her brother-in-law Robert Kennedy earlier that year. Onassis was a wealthy and powerful man, exactly what she needed. Her marriage would also accomplish her goal of taking her and her children out of the US.

The marriage brought Jackie adverse publicity in America, and it also caused her to break with the Catholic Church, as Onassis was a divorced man. It soon seemed that this was a marriage of convenience, as the couple rarely spent time together. Jackie spent most of her days traveling and shopping. It was rumored that she spent about $1,000,000 per year on clothes.

Jackie continued to be a style icon and fashion trendsetter despite the adverse publicity her marriage to Onassis caused. Much to her dismay, the paparazzi followed her everywhere. Here, Jackie wears an Emilio Pucci cotton mini dress to celebrate her 40th birthday in 1969.

Monday, April 12, 2010

Welcoming Summer in Style

1951

Ah, the heat of summer. Life is languid, sultry, and hot. You can look hot too. There's no need to resort to shorts and a tank top. Take your cue from these lovely ladies and wear a dress that's a bit bare in all the right places. Choose a natural fiber like cotton, linen, or rayon that will breathe and help to keep you cool. Add an accessory like a shawl or wide brimmed hat to protect you from direct sunlight. Don't forget the sunscreen! Ah, that's better.

1949

1948

1950

1951

Sunday, April 11, 2010

Weekend Eye Candy - Pierre Cardin 1969

I don't think I need to say anything, do I? Pierre Cardin, 1969.

Saturday, April 10, 2010

Weekend Eye Candy - Jacques Fath 1949

Pink silk faille evening coat by Jacques Fath, 1949. Looks like there is something in the sleeve hem to help hold it out. I wonder how many yards of fabric it took to make this?

Friday, April 09, 2010

Wild Prints - 1970

The 1970s were the heyday of wild and crazy prints. We wore them and we loved them! And if we were brave enough, we even mixed-and-matched them! Let these prints inspire your look today. All from 1970.

Leonard

Lanvin

Per Spook print for Louis Feraud

Pierre Balmain

Ungaro Parallele

Thursday, April 08, 2010

Hair Styles - 1939

During the 1930s, women's hair styles were shorter and were set with finger waves and pin curls. Permanent waves became popular at this time so that women with straight hair could wear fashionable styles. Longer hair was rolled into curls or a bun at the nape of the neck.

Hats from this period were worn tilted forward or to the side. A woman's hairstyle was often asymmetric, as well, to accommodate the wearing of her favorite hat.

Curls were often placed so that they complimented the hat. All of the hair styles shown below are from 1939. Enjoy!






Are you thinking everyone was blonde in 1939? No, it's simply that lighter hair showed the details for photography.